Purplehaze

Thanks man nice share!

Man, I am no professional, and I could be wrong. But I would think it would be better to use the chassis ground, and use your wire to connect it in multiple points. That way the car's metal and the wire both work together for the entire electrical system. I just came across this same issue, and I chose not to ground directly to the battery alone, but both directly and indirectly, if that makes any sence. But again, I'm no pro. But my dad is a 40+ year industrial electrician, and his opinion was that I did it right. But he will also tell you he is industrial, not automotive electrician. So who knows. But you can see how I did it in the link in my sig. Let me know what you decide, and what you think of mine.

Yeah, I wish I would have found this thread sooner. I got one b/c I thought I needed it. They should say on them: Not intended for car audio use. 4x4 or off road use only! I am in the middle of a build, I just got all my electrical finished, only to see the rear battery not seem to charge. Although, it is charging, just barely. When running, the front battery is at 14.1 and the rear is 12.8 - That shit just aint gettin it! I was told that adding a voltage regulator could fix this issue, but I aint spending anymore on it, I'm just gonna do away with the isolator. If anyone needs one, I have an ALMOST new Stinger 200 amp relay/isolator for sale. I just paid over $60 for it, I'll take $40, plus 10 to ship it! Still have original package, only installed for 24 hrs.

18:2

Rt now I am at this: 425:1244

Damn that looks wild seeing the SW on the other side like that!

This is what I have at the moment. Things will change in 6 more weeks!(tax time) This set up hit 140.2 on the meter, I was surprised. 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser "big three" factory cd head unit Kicker 08S12L5 12" L5 Solo Soundstream PIC2.600 Kicker DS650 component front and rear Kicker ZX350.4 Soundstream 2 farad capacitor Several hours of wire hiding