Crandis16

or you can do it by yourself. about $20-$30 for 1/0 gauge ring terminals $20-30 for 1/0 gauge wire (for me anyway) I was hesitant at first but I found some help from other people and planned out how I was going to do it first. The hardest part was hooking it up to the alternator really

I won't yell at you, but caps lock is annoying lol. I have been looking at the MB quartz amps for another build that I am doing for a buddy this summer and I am having his 2 12's wired to a 1ohm load, so to answer your question, yes. And I really like the polk coaxials, I got them at a great price and I haven't had a problem with them yet. If you are going with a loud sub stage then I suggest you match your mids/highs stage so that you don't drown out all the mids/highs. they can handle up to 60wrms but they have never seen that power because I'm just running them off of the head unit until I absolutely need to get an amp to math my sub stage. I have never heard of them but if doesn't hurt to try out other brands, if you don't like them then you can just resell and buy something different

I doubt that 2 sa-12's will turn a vehicle into a ground pounder, but they will get pretty loud for a coup style vehicle like yours. They are rated at 600wrms but have been known to take more than that daily. Suggested ported volume for their 12's are 1.5 cubes but 1.5-1.75 should be fine really. I suggested getting 2 dual 4 sa-12s and wire them down to a 1ohm load and have them powered by a 1ohm stable amp that does 1500wrms @ 1ohm Edit: welcome to the forum. If you're running all stock electrical (assuming a 90amp alt) then I suggest that you at least perform the big 3 electrical upgrade under your hood. There is a great thread under the electrical section that demonstrates how to perform this

bumpity

bumpity bump

you probably will see voltage drop, depending on how old your alternator is. I believe that mine is starting to shit the bed unfortunately which is the reason for a voltage drop at only 500wrms. Have you performed the big 3 yet? I noticed a decrease, if not a removal, of voltage drop in my vehicle by performing this upgrade

I'm not much of a gearhead unfortunately. I'm just going off of what other people suggested that I do in order to pinpoint what the problem was. some people said that it could be the timing belt, but when I lifted the cover I saw the shitty timing belt almost sheared in half. I really wish I knew more about engines but unfortunately I never had the opportunity in the past to really work on any and gain much knowledge of them I have replaced timing belts on two different cars now, on a kia rio that was an interference engine and it broke 2 exhaust valves and bent several other valves. $600 bucks in repairs on a pos kia that wasn't worth $600 new. the other was on a Mercury Mystic that wasnt an interference, the belt had just a few teeth missing so it would still spin the cams but wouldn't start. $100 inlcuding a new water pump. all the books say that mine is an interference engine, but all the zx2 forums say that it is indeed a non-interference engine and it can be done in anyone's garage. but I know the shops will treat it as an interference engine and charge me the big bucks to get my POS fixed. It's my only way of transportation and I'm a broke ass college student lol

I agree, if it was a bad camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor then it straight up wouldn't start at all so it's gotta be one of those two that you pinpointed... hopefully the starter rather than the timing belt. timing belts are a bitch and I'm going to pay out of the ass to fix mine because i accidentally ripped mine in half in an attempt to remove it lol

I'm not much of a gearhead unfortunately. I'm just going off of what other people suggested that I do in order to pinpoint what the problem was. some people said that it could be the timing belt, but when I lifted the cover I saw the shitty timing belt almost sheared in half. I really wish I knew more about engines but unfortunately I never had the opportunity in the past to really work on any and gain much knowledge of them

before replacing spark plugs, take each one out individually and place them next to the chassis (ground) then get someone to turn the key and look for a spark to check if they are good. spark plugs are one of those deals where they go bad over time. so if you haven't had any trouble starting in the recent past then spark plugs shouldn't be a problem to be honest. If it's the timing belt then it will want to start but won't be able to... because of the skipped belt..... take of the oil cap and look inside for moving camshafts while someone turns the key. if you see movement then the timing belt is still in tact but might have skipped a tooth or two.

Yeah it started right back up after taking the key out of the ignition then starting it again. to check if the fuel pump is working, all you have to do is turn the key to on then check in the rear outside of the car for a humm of the pump turning on. you don't actually have to start the car to do this.

crankshaft or camshaft sensor? might be the coil box too?

Yeah it started right back up after taking the key out of the ignition then starting it again. get someone else there with you and get them to listen near the ground by the rear tire. tell them to listen for a hummmm. that should be the gas pump turning on, just one way to eliminate the problems. another way to look for problems is to check the fuel line to the engine.... there should be a cap that looks like a cap to a bicycle tire.... you want to remove that and press the little pin inside there and if gas sprays then you indeed don't have a blockage in your fuel line. if that's fine then either it's an electrical problem or a timing belt problem. Have you taken out your spark plugs and tried starting the engine to see if each of the spark plugs give off an electrical arc yet?

my car wouldn't. I'm not sure if you're talking to OP or me but with my timing belt problem it would crank but there would be no solid start. All electrical would work but it wouldn't start

Same thing happened to me. I was just chillin going about 20mph through my neighborhood then all of a sudden it was like f*** you I don't wanna do this shit anymore and it just stopped. If it was your spark plugs then you should have seen it over time. When I get my car back and the results of why it stopped I'll let you know.... but when I decided to look inside my engine I found this which I am about to show you. I'm assuming that with the smaller width of the belt it skipped gears and caused the pistons to not be in the right position when the spark plugs fired. Honestly I think it was your timing belt. I suggest posting on other forums for your car, thats what I did and they pretty much pinpointed it what common problems with my zx2 and they were exactly right. Those car-specific forums usually know more about the performance of your vehicle more than SMD does, but good luck.

solid man, this makes me want to take a look at the local pawn shop too lol

There are way too many factors to look into this and give a definite answer of yes or no, it really all depends on how you decide to do your system in all honestly. Once you get more specific with equipment and setup then you will be able to get more solid answers. Welcome to the forum, this wasn't a very good welcome thread lol, there seems to be a lot of hate already lol

completely agree here, if you want to lean more towards SPL with stock electrical (exception of big 3) then chances are you will be able to run a max of 600wrms to the sub with little or no voltage drop, this is if you have stock 90amp alternator under the hood. I did the same thing and I'm upgrading to DC lvl 4 12 also, but I'll be putting a battery in the trunk at least and getting a bigger amp to wake up the sub. that sub will be begging for more power in order for it to perform well at all. You won't see near full potential if you go the route that you want to go. 600 is a little small. 1000 should work more than fine with an alt sized like that I guess it's just my old POS car then lol. I was seeing voltage drop after just 500wrms lol. I need to do some serious upgrades to the electrical as soon as this new sub comes in

I was gonna say same thing, port to the side is louder than port between subs

completely agree here, if you want to lean more towards SPL with stock electrical (exception of big 3) then chances are you will be able to run a max of 600wrms to the sub with little or no voltage drop, this is if you have stock 90amp alternator under the hood. I did the same thing and I'm upgrading to DC lvl 4 12 also, but I'll be putting a battery in the trunk at least and getting a bigger amp to wake up the sub. that sub will be begging for more power in order for it to perform well at all. You won't see near full potential if you go the route that you want to go.

Is it cool if I send a PM asking for permission to make a post n8? Can I rebuild my car too and post that on here too n8?I'll keep you posted anytime I want to go above my post count I will kick you right square in the ding ding if you do this. dafaq n8, censor yourself. maybe you are trying to be a nice mod, or a smart ass... internet sarcasm is a bitch 300 post count!!! It's time for someone to be let into 18+ by n8

Is it cool if I send a PM asking for permission to make a post n8? Can I rebuild my car too and post that on here too n8?I'll keep you posted anytime I want to go above my post count

shit man, you're really going above and beyond on this one. I hope DC gave you good deals on those subs for being such a bulk order