SojiaRaggs9000

Well its not like I dive around with it on full tilt... Just want to be able to turn it up when I want to. I know the PAI 3000.1's where different boards but I did have it running @ .5 ohm daily up until the day I sold the amp. IIRC the 1.2k's are rated for up to 16v. Not sure if that makes any difference,

Sweet good to know... it expands my coil options muahahaha. Thanks

Thats exactly what I was thinking... then but the names suits them. Outrageous "Prices" Audio

I recently bought a DC 1.2k and was wondering if It was capible of running @ .5ohm without any problems. I've owned the DC PAI 3000.1 (09 amps) and ran it @ .5ohm for like 2 years and it did just fine. Yes I know it might void warrenty but thats not the question at hand. Has anyone done any testing on this? Ive seen some threads on CA.com where a few claim to have clamped it from anywhere from 1599~1900 @ .5 ohm ... just trying to get some info here.

Daily bump, still looking. Cash in hand... let me know.

Sold my DC 8" m2's today So now Im bassless. Hit me up with what you got.. Lookin for a 12" DC XL D2 coils.

NOW Im bassless and DC's XL motoros are on back order /rage mode!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! haha

Couldn't resist sorry... Local Guy wanted them so bad he paid me $100 more than I paid for them lol...

sold these locally

bump

bump

One 10" lvl4 XL and one 12" lvl4 XL (D1 coils) Prices for m1 and m2's (if still available) 79745

Bump

Will do. And bump

Looking for a 10" or 12" DC lvl4 XL D2 (M2 mainly) . Let me know what you got.

I have here two BEEFY DC 8" M2's for trade. Subs are like 2 months old. They're 10/10 cosmetically and 10/10 mechanically. Reason for selling is because Id like to go another direction. Im looking to get one DC lvl4 XL 10" or a 12" . Doesnt have to be the new M2 versions.. M1 is fine. Let me know what you got. Sorry name is a little hard to see in pic but its there on the paper.. wrote in black pen. Pics I took on my iPhone when I first got them.... just to show that these are M2's Here is my sellers feedback: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/59113-official-sojiaraggs9000-feedback/page__hl__sojiaraggs9000__fromsearch__1

no one?

Ok I sketched up a couple of "tries". Basicly I'm just trying to figure out the port. (I know the height is incorrect Im not worried about that at the moment.) The lengths arn't 100% dead on either but I'll fix it after I know which to go with.. Or if Im even in the same ball park on finding the taper. This on is just a classic t-line. No taper just the same port (5.25") This one is the style Ronnie suggested. I adjusted inside wall of the port up 3.25" and lowerd the other end 3.25" (give or take) Why 3.25", I don't know I guess because it half of 5.25"? This one Soapbox suggested. I started with 5.25" to 1.75" to 2.75" and ended with 5.25". Why these numbers , I don't know maybe because 5.25" / 3 is 1.75. And 1.75" + 2.75" = 5.25"

Well its not the taurus in my sig. I currently have a 2008 Chrysler 300 and Im trying to keep everything close to stock with the exception of the audio. But Id like to not tear anything up with mods. Im just trying to make a clean sounding SQ/SPL build that get loud but isn't rattle as all get out. Now I did make a slot ported box for the 2 DC 8 m2s and it sounds good but not great. I recently built a tline for my sister's 08 Jeep Compass and was quite impressed with the results of the SA-8 t-line with 400 rms.

Yes with the side-by-side configuration I don't have to worry about the 14" height problem. IF the side-side-side configuration is (ideal) ? What I really want to do is have the subs (over and under) on top of each other but with only 14" of height I'm kinda screwed. So by going with the tapered type like you've shown in the picture... I can tell you started and ended the subs chamber and the end of the port with the same cubic inches. My question would be how did you decide what to reduce the port width down to. Just took 1/2 the SD? Or am I just making this out to be harder than it actually is haha...

My problem is that I want the port and the subs firing into the cab. (I hate rattling trunks, imo think it sounds cheap). From the trunks floor to the bottem of the parcial shelf (closest to the back of the seats) is 14 inches. This is where Im running into trouble stacking the subs ontop of each other. Port wise I can fit it (doubled) no problem. But mounting the subs... eh I don't know.

No one? Is there some sort of equation that I don't know that helps in determining the taper?

Maybe someone can explain to me how to figure out the taper?

I've built a few t-lines for a single sub in the past. Currently Im trying to figure out what will fit and sound the best for my two DC 8 m2's. I love t-line but I can't seem to get two DC 8 m2's to fit on top of each other in my trunk (trying to keep the height around 14" tall by 34 wide, depth is workable). I've never built a t-line for dual subs... or a tapered tline. I've only built tradional t-lines for only a sigle sub. Can they subs be in the same chamber side by side (sharing the same line) or do they have to be seprate? How would I got about figureing out the taper? Any help would be appriciated. Heres the specs of the subs. Mounting Depth 5.25" Mounting Hole Diameter 7.25" Motor Width 6.5" Weight 17.5lbs VC Diameter 2" Displacement .10³ ft Sd 201.93 cm² Vas 7.01 L Cms 126.134 um/N Mms 157.47 g Fs 35.71 Hz Bl 15.29 Re 3.95 ohm Qms 4.64 Qes .59 Xmax 16.5 mm Sensitivity 79.04 dB

The subs arn't out or... the specs? because I just bought the subs back in december.