graham0599

x2. That would be smart to just have your system at 16v and you car off the step down at 12v

You can get s sonotube/concrete form at home depot or lowes for like $15. Just make sure you have enough port area.

Overkill is underrated. It won't hurt at all but isn't necessary.

I run this amp and it is still a mono signal. I sugguest running at 4ohm bridged and if you want it louder, then drop down to 1ohm bridged. The amp can handle it. There's lots of people running there's at .5ohm so you''l be fine. Plus with rise it'll go up some so like 1.7ohm or so. also checkout vminnovations.com for a good store.

I've never been the best at math but that sounds like 8800+ watts? Agreed^ Something doesn't add up. But that will be a sick system good luck. You have it all down though. I'd suggest 2 runs of 1/0 front to back also

That thing looks good. Agree with the jig saw though. They're a PITA to get a good circle

Agreed ^

Just parallel the speaker in each door and it wont hurt them. At least if im catching what youre saying right.

Oh crap i completely forgot. Dumb question, how should i take it down?

Will have pic up soon. If not PM for number and i can text pics. Located in Oklahoma

deleted

Check out vminnovations.com they sell them new for pretty cheap. That's where I got mine.

what are they gonne be wired to? 1 ohm? 2?

I'd get an audiopipe 3000 if I were you. Nothing but great and does more than rated

Go to hifisoundconnection.com They have a lot of amps cheap and most are really good. Get a mono though

I've heard good things about power acoustik. My friend uses one on a L7 12" making around 850 I'm guessing at 4ohm Check out hifisoundconnection.com

check out hifisoundconnection.com

Audiopipe 3k are great to run

12" would be better and port it otherwise put the 15" in a sealed. It'll sound like crap in that small of a port

It's an AP3k man... One good battery is enough. You more than likely have a 120a alt (double check). Figure you have 50a in reserve and your amp draw with that amp is 200 MAX. Figure less than that unless it's an extreme situation (voltage drop, clipped out the ass, etc). Hook up what you have and see how it does. If it sucks (voltage wise) get a good battery and sell the cap. Just remember if you want to go 14v+ all the time you're going to need like a 300a alt especially if you have another amp for interiors. If I were you I would do what I said, hook it up and see what happens. If it doesn't work well sell the cap, get a 3100 or 2400 or 2700 (whatever fits) and a smaller one for the rear if you still need more. Just keep in mind you can't run around blasting it all the time even with an alt, it will fry. So should I use the cap for now? And if it sucks then take it off and get a big battery? Or what?

It's a 92 dodge Dakota 5.2 v8. I'm not sure on the alt but I think it's around 90 or 120. I was thinking doing the big 3, and getting an xs d3100 or something equivalent. Then using all 1/0 gauge wire and still running it with the cap just for a little extra help. Since it's so large it wont be completely draining so that I think will really help the power demand Will that work? Or at least until I get an alt? I planned on getting a 200 or more amp alt later down the road

Is an alternator 100% necessary though? i got the cap thinking it would cover the power draw since its a 50 farad. i mean audiopipe sugguests a 1 farad so.... Is it really neccassary? im going to get a nice battery under the hood like an optima yellow top, xs, of kinetic. it would be the biggest i could get under the hood too

where could i get a cheaper alternator? i drive a 92 dodge dakota 5.2 v8. i dont really wanna have to drop $375.

where could i get a cheaper alternator? i drive a 92 dodge dakota 5.2 v8. i dont really wanna have to drop $375

so i shouldn't use the cap? i had got it to work as nearly a second battery since its a 50 farad. I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible, i dont mind spending money on quality stuff i just would rather not have to spend much more money.