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graham0599

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About graham0599

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    SMD SUPPORTING MEMBER
  • Birthday 05/29/1995

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    Oklahoma City, OK

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  1. Bought some CNF mids from him, great price, easy to contact. I paid late one night and he shipped immediately next morning. Took only 3 days to get here and he threw in a few extra wiring goodies just because. Definitely would buy again
  2. On mine I have a momentary interrupt button. So the wire stays grounded, I hit the button, breaks the circuit, release the button, grounds again. Therefore making it seem like I put the E-brake on, off, and back on.
  3. That's how I am, very careful with my amp. Really the only reason I'm wired that low is so I don't have to rewire when I wanna do burps. Otherwise the sub level on the headunit stays turned down. I have a PAC LC1 knob too though
  4. My brother had a nice Klipsch 10" 400w home audio subwoofer that we hooked to an inverter, thing would bump hard till you turned it up too much and the inverter went into protect. Actually did a good install on it, tucked all wires and everything. Inverter mounted under the seat, wire tucked to up to cigarette lighter, power wire tucked running from sub to inverter, rca hidden from headunit to sub. Was quite hilarious
  5. JL Audio W7 13". Buddy had one in a ported box on a JL 1000wrms and I thought it was the greatest thing I'd ever heard when i was 12 lol
  6. There is not a wrong with making a T-line with the line area = cone area, and tuning to the Fs of the sub, there are just other ways to do it too. By varying the line area, length, a taper you can control how the T-line will sound. Much like how you can change how a ported box sounds by adjusting the internal volume and tuning. Could you explain more to me or maybe PM? I'm planning on building one for my home surround sound just to try out.
  7. I still don't understand how all this works. I thought it was cone area = port area, port length tuned to fs of the sub. Apparently there's way more to it
  8. That would probably be just fine but I'd personally stick with the XS Power. XS batts, XS charger. They match and cost about the same
  9. It really doesn't matter. Just hook the charger to once of the batteries. If all batteries are paralleled, then all batteries will charge. Now if they have different resting voltages, then it will be a process. Over time the batteries will all level out. If one batt sits at 12.8 and one at 12.6, then they'll level out at 12.7. As the charger remains on them, the resting voltages will begin to level out, then eventually raise. A lot of people have xs batts resting at 13.1-13.4
  10. I'd go with their intellicharger. It's designed for their batteries, and everyone has great results with them.
  11. Take like 5' of solder and fold it to around 1' and spin it with a drill. Really helpful when soldering 1/0 lugs
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