strebors

Looking for a different amp with more power that doesnt require a remote wire to turn on and doesnt require RCA's. My current Alpine MRV100m turns on once it gets an audio source but doesnt push hard enough. Ive looked around and saw a sundown that is 1300@2ohm and a skar that is 1450@2ohm. Not sure how much over 1250 I should go since i wont be pushing at 100% much of the time. Also the Fi is an SSD15 is 7yrs old and i did order it with flatwind

Currently using an older amp that does 1000w @ 2ohm. Due to my factory head unit that controls everything I only tap off of rear speakers for signal and the amp turns on once it gets audio signal (no remote wire). I need something that is capable of doing that.

got it all in and ran my dd1 on it just now, sounds great, only issue i have is when i turn the power off its like like low frequency feedback goes through the sub, my only guess is its because im using the speaker wire input on the amp instead of using rcas cause it didnt do this before in my other car with rcas not sure how to post pics on here too otherwise i would post a few

I looked and cant see an alternator anywhere but everything is shoehorned in under the hood, from what i read, the 12volt system is charged by an inverter which is part of the battery cell that the electric motor charges, and that is done by running the gas motor and braking http://www.hybridcars.com/compacts-sedans/toyota-camry-hybrid-overview.html

the salesman said no alternator but i will look again, i didnt see one the very few times i looked under the hood

2012 camry hybrd just curious if anyone has any experience with a system in a hybrid? It has no alternator, but has an elec motor that charges battery cell and 12v accessory battery. the battery is in the trunk which makes it easier to hook up system... what i am using for system.... one RE srx 15d2 (600w max) one alpine mrx-m100 (prob will only run it around half power at 4 ohm load) should that be fine on the hybrid system or should i maybe add another battery? i know i will probably lose some mpg because it will sense it needs to charge battery sooner than normal so i dont think adding another battery would make a lot of difference but maybe someone with a hybrid might know more.

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would you sign mine too? just ordered, wichita ks

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yea was figuring the power issue was my problem, i lowered the gain to a little over half, the subsonic filter stayed at 25ish, moved lp filter to 60 and bass eq down to +2 and doesnt cut out but i know it can do more but not without upgrading wire, battery, alt thanks for your help

I dont plan on having this car much longer so dont want to go all out, (rewire, battery, alt) was hoping it was my settings and i was thinking about investing in a DD-1 but I dont think I would use it much since im not into changing my system much or competing its just for driving around and bumping some so is this just something built into newer amps that shuts it down because it senses something? my previous amp was a 15 yr old mrv-1000 and it didnt shut off

heres my deal, had a cheapo system with 8 gauge power wire, factory alternator and battery (97 tbird) just upgraded 2 RE audio SRX 15s dual 2 ohm 300rms / 600peak they are in sealed box(the right amount of space) alpine mrx-m100 mono amp - 2ohm = 1087watts is what the certificate says I have the subs wired in series to run a 2 ohm load on the amp and the amp gain is at about 3/4 not sure where to put the bass eq on the amp at but i think it is at +6 (0 to +12), the crossover frequency is at 50hz and the subsonic filter is at 25 or 30 I am not sure about how to set the subsonic filter or bass eq because my last amp didnt have that but when i turn up my stereo to a good level then turn my remote amp knob up and get past 1/2 way and it sounds like the amp/subs are cutting out then i back it off and the bass comes back, what could be wrong? it doesnt sound distorted and it did this when i was originally setting the gain