slowfkncar

Active noise cancellation, you have a mic in the rear middle roof liner & 2 mics near the front dome light, you need to retain one mic up front as its for the bluetooth and disconnect the other two, make a bluetooth call and cover each mic with tape until you figure out which one handles the bluetooth. Generally I've only seen this effect low frequency noise but the ANC system does stay on even with the factory radio off and could be causing your problems.

Internal or external regulator, any one that will bypass the data line will work. Don't stress this, its not hard to do. If you cant find any way to boost idle, you might want to look into the smallest pulley you can get away with.

350lb dense carbon steel > 20lb of 0 gauge copper.

Soundqubed 4500.1 / skar skv2 4500.1 sound like a few that might fit your budget. My aq/sq amps have been reliable as fuck, going on 8+ years through 5 different cars all at 1 ohm lmao..

LFE = low frequency extension. Any high powered woofer will play just fine at 100w, they are made to do this, its like rolling around town with your woofers turned down. If you are planning on a future power upgrade, id probably go for a higher power handling woofer and design the enclosure for 2kw untill im ready for more power and port, at least down the line you'll only need to buy an amp & electrical and wont get stuck with an extra woofer.

Dang a 12" midbass with a 4" coil, i would imagine a bit of roll-off in the upper end. 250rms at 1khz probably wont be all that impressive on a driver like that but who knows?

"Better" is subjective to your goal, if your goal is for a daily musical setup with good LFE on 2kw, the Q would likely be a better choice for you. If you plan to throw more power and chase numbers then yeah, btl all the way. Both woofers will be perfectly fine off a 2kw amp but both will perform significantly different from each other, especially on music with a 2kw amp.

Cant speak for the new btl but if its anything like the previous model in terms of performance and power handling, I would hate to pick it over a Q on 2kw daily.

^ "looks" like the diode pack got hot af for whatever reason, melted the solder on one of the stator inputs.

Thing about active is the speakers are going to do exactly what you make them do, the EQ, phasing/distance between drivers and crossover slopes can make a significant difference with most in-car setups. If your midrange is harsh beyond 1.5-2khz you could always experiment with driver phase, placement or a tweeter that can play lower. It took me a very long time until i found an active setup that i like, i usually end up selecting drivers that can compliment each other so i don't need to worry about harshness near my xover points. I've use some moderately priced in ear monitors almost daily for 10+ years and it drives me nuts chasing the same type of sound in my vehicles, i usually get close enough to not bitch about it but sometimes with 3 way front stage it can be a real challenge when your on a budget.

Aren't ds18's budget friendly already? In terms of dollar to watt? Hard to find a cheap 4" mid that will take 110rms active without worrying.

Fwiw, not very many things use the highest of highest quality parts compared to stuff like medical equipment & electronics operating under negative pressure ect.. Sure, its nice to have a custom 10kw board with quality parts however, we know that there are levels to quality and through experience we can't say that sundown/hifonics/dd/boss all use the same level of quality caps because they aren't.

Check your voltage, check it at the front and at the rear while under load just to make sure you don't have a bad connection for that 3500.1 a lose/bad connection will reduce the available current going to your amp, most amps clip easier when it doesn't get its rated current. Get rid of the cap & replace it with a battery if/when you can. Make sure your rca's and bass knob aren't accidentally pinched or grounded anywhere and shut off any bass boost/enhancement feature if you have any. If it still clips at the very second at low volume, I'd probably get the amp checked.

I just want to point out for those who aren't sure and/or cant stand flickering head lights, HID lighting uses fully regulated ballast because the bulb doesn't have the ability to handle voltage swings without immediate damage. It doesn't care about the input voltage and will not dim as long as you stay in range and the wire has enough current to make up for low voltage. On those model accords, i pull the front & rear mic to disable the ANC, careful not to accidentally pull the bluetooth mic, otherwise you need to hit the damn diag menu every start-up. The ELD can be disabled through hondata or re-coding your ECU through honda or a 3rd party software, most people say fuck it and just rock the headlights everywhere, much cheaper option.