slowfkncar

Having dealt with both, the t series slim is on another level, look at the t/s for a slim woofer its insane, the tw5 right behind it imho.

Looking like a psi reconed aa havoc/mayhem

Have you ever listened to an RF t1 shallow? If you insist on a shallow woofer, id look into those but i still wouldn't give them any more than 750 a piece.

Not sure why your head unit would shut off anywhere near 13.5v, that's far from normal. You might want to check your voltage with a dmm at the head unit. With your current system, you should be able to get away with a decent rear battery and solid connections but if you plan on future upgrades, a high output alternator will be a BIG help.

The only active & optical capable dsp with an external knob know of is the rockford 360.3 however, its only an 8 channel output which means you would need to run a pair of tweets or mids (L or R) on the same channel which would eliminate the fader. Unless you can find a dsp with the same capability but with a 10 channel output, you might need to buy all those processors just to have it your way, if that's what you really want. Having no fader has never bothered me because i feel you shouldn't need to fade an SQ system.

Extend them or run new ones, you will be fine.

From the g37 service manual, For this model, the battery current sensor that is installed to the battery cable at the negative terminal measures the charging/discharging current of the battery, and performs various controls. If the electrical component or the ground wire is connected directly to the battery terminal, the current other than that being measured with the battery current sensor is charging to or discharging from the battery. This condition causes the malfunction of the control, and then the battery discharge may occur. Do not connect the electrical component or the ground wire directly to the battery terminal. Electrical systems are starting to be a pita but for what its worth, you do have some options here. Option 1, take it to the dealer and have them disable the variable voltage regulator output from the ecu, that way you can just remove the clamp. Option 2, run your new cable through the existing clamp, though sometimes it doesn't fit.

Just realised that, woofer fires piss me off lol. A small portion of my back seat just went up in flames because i wasnt able to pull over fast enough to put it out, im sure some of you guys can already guess the brand.

Just one sub, I'd probably try the deaf bonce neo 32" haha

I agree, depends on what you need/want. Your type of application then consider hoffmans iron law & figure out which compromise you can get away with.

If you insist on compromising then maybe 5/8 birch with a couple of wall to wall braces?

you've got the right idea for lessening the load on your electrical but chances are you will likely hear some kind of difference (good or bad depends on your needs).

If its a continuous pop regardless of what you do then it sounds like a bad amp.

What is the amp showing during the pops? Check the status of the led's then check your connections. Solid red led = stuck in protect Bouncing back from red to green = possibly loose connection or loose terminal on the board, could still be a bad amp. If you have the remote input set to 12v and not auto turn-on, yet the subs still pop with only power and ground then that amp is suspect.

I actually really enjoy the 13 & 16, a bit pricey but damn they sound good for the output you get.