WillPwn4Food

How many cubes is the box?

Wow. Got alot more, and more positive input than I expected to receive. Usually I have to come up with a catchy topic name to get everyone's attention. I know how hard I can push a woofer before it goes when I'm running it, I just don't want to buy one, and find out it can't handle what I was expecting it to. I'd assume with level 5 soft parts on a level 4, the cost difference would almost make more sense to go with XL's.

^^ One of the greater things I've seen.... Although I too just scrolled down. I was trolled one too many times, and eventually learned my lesson not to click links that say "Click me" nor pull fingers when someone says "Pull my finger" And on a side note, I'm sure that picture will be gone soon. Enjoy it while it's there.

I think this goes to show.... DC FTMFW

You see, that's what I kind of thought. 1750 to each is 750 over rms recommendation... But DC has always been known to underrate their subwoofers. They're pretty godly. I kind of figured with 5 soft parts it'd be able to handle it no problem. I'll have to check with CJ or someone before I order. And I'll know if my build goes through within a week or so. All depends on my financial situation, of course. Took all of this week off due to a fever If I do, you can sure as hell expect a build log.

So how many watts is everyone running to their Level 4's daily? I hear some say they won't handle that much, and some say they will... Thinking about walling 2 level 4 18's on the DC 3.5k. Too much power for them? I'd really rather not have to upgrade to the XLs, but any sort of input is welcome.

Well, good to know. Sorry for the misconception and shit post. Haters gon' hate, what can I say?

Same apply for speaker wire? or just power/ground?

Don't get me wrong, not trying to be a douche, I've just always been.... How to word this... Always been taught/raised that higher quality stranded wire was better than low-stranded wire.

So pure copper rods are better than OFC stranded wire? Of the same diameter, of course.

Serious question requires serious reply. Theres several builds using pure copper rods for powering. How is the power transfer even halfway decent on that?

Serious question requires serious reply.

In this situation, the "More is better" saying applies.

@photochris: You have a good enough point. People in my area have been trying to step up their game to attempt to beat me. They still all stick with kickers, kenwoods, and the cheap JL's. Their systems usually sounds nicer on music, but mine still out-beasts them. @Greyfox: Never been Term Labbed, only mic'd. 140.2 with a single Cadence Wild Beast 15". I've given a couple people in my areas a demo. Mostly the guys that competed against me. Sometimes people that hear me pull up at gas stations come and check my Taurus out, usually for the lambo doors.

I realize for larger comps, a 5 hour drive is necessary, but literally NOBODY around here seems to know much about car stereos and shit. Nobody seems to have decent setups. It kinda sucks. And New guy, the reactions I get are pretty mixed. Some people will drive by when I'm workin' on the bull and yell "Nice car!". On the contrary, some people just laugh at it, and then there's people that say it looks nice, but it's still a Taurus (Kind of like the... You can polish a turd, but in the end, it's still a turd kind of thing). Overall, nobody has ever said it looks bad. The worst people think is that it was dumb to put lambo doors on a Taurus.... For $400, I sure as shit won't complain. They make my car stand out from the rest.

Yeah, I'd love to, but that's hard when most sound comps are a once-or-twice a year type thing in the cities around here. I can't just take off any given weekend and find a sound competiton. Nearest place I'd possibly be able to do that is 8 hours.

So I hate living in the northern US (North Dakota. Whoop whoop /sarcasm) mainly because there is NO good subwoofer competition around here. Prime example: Guy across the street has a Chevy S10 with two 10's pushing 150rms... And he thinks they bump pretty hard. Are you freaking joking? I just want to meet ONE person with a decent stereo around here. My hometown usually has 8 or so people in the annual sound competition... All of which can't break 130db on music. Yeah, the kiddies around here are that sad... with their sealed 10's and 12's. I just wish, for once, I could find a single person around here with a halfway decent setup to just talk/build setups with. Especially with my (hopeful) upcoming wall build (Provided my funds fall through). I think I have to move out of this desert if I want any of that to happen, though. *Sigh* /end rant

I won't say which is better, as I've never owned the AQ 750. I have owned the kenwood 1800, however. Pretty solid amp, not going to lie. As far as quality goes, it's definitely been one of the better ones I've owned. Not to mention, it was fairly cheap for me when I got it ($150 with associate discount when I worked at best buy ) It'll put out over rated. Loved it.

I've had Sony, Skull Candy, and... Some weird brand... Then I got the Beats by Dre Solo HD head phones... Oh... My God... Eargasm. Had awesome sound quality, and rediculous bass. Plus side is they didn't require batteries. Downside is they seemed to fall off my head whenever I moved it quickly. Headbanging or jogging would be a nono in them... I ended up returning them to Best Buy. Why, you might ask? I wanted the Studios. I put them on, cranked the volume and then -Insert mind blown face here- eargasm. Not quite as much bass as the Solos at preset levels. But the Studios can handle any amount of bass level and still sound amazing. Mine make my ear lobes jiggle. No shit. It's awesome.

Well, I've worked at best buy, and if you have your receipt, and you didn't screw up the computer, they'll return it no problem. Just have your receipt so it's not a long pain in the ass to return it. As well, ask about the protection plan. Yeah, alot of people think it's a sham, but it'll cover a battery replacement. Chances are, the battery's going to go dead quite fast unless you're taking super good care of it. As far as which computer.... Acer is usually built pretty cheap. They're a money saving brand, and will do almost anything to save a buck or two producing a computer. I personally wouldn't suggest one. I've seen more dead ones than I have good working ones. ASUS started off as a gaming computer/ part company. They definitely know what they're doing when it comes to computers. It's a pretty solid brand. I'd almost say next best to Alienware. And unless you're going to attempt to game, the ASUS would be the better choice due to the graphics card. The ASUS has a bigger hard drive, a better processor (The AMD is a 2.2ghz quad core, whereas the i3 is a 2.1ghz dual core. However, it has hyperthreading, which means it'll operate alot more efficiently, as if it has double the cores. The iSeries processors from Intel are beast.) Overall the ASUS is a better machine. I build computers and am going to college for Computer Science. Don't question me. HOWEVER... When you're looking at a computer... You can't really say which is better for which price... Because it all comes down to your personal preference. The Acer is a 17", which means it's going to be a beast. If you're going to be hauling it around alot, like in college between classes or whatever, it's going to absolutely suck. However, it has a numeric keyboard. So if you're going into accounting and will be dealing with numbers alot, that keyboard would be nice to have. As well, the battery life on the Acer blows.... Up to 2.7 hours. AKA 2 hours on average at the most. When they test battery life, it's usually doing something simple like microsoft word. It's never at full load. The ASUS is up to 5 hours and 45 minutes... Or 5 hours or so. HUGE difference. The point of a laptop is to not be attached to a wall all of the time. Having a 17" one with 2 hours of battery life defeats that purpose. Almost better to get a desktop at this point in my opinion. As well with the Acer, the battery's going to go dead twice as fast since you're going to have it plugged in twice as much. Unless, like I said, you take care of it. Best thing to do when getting a computer is to actually go into a store and look them over. Press the keys, see how you like them, if they're flimsy etc. Look at the screen, the texture of it, etc. Get the one with the features you want in a computer. Not just which is better for the money. Also check out Toshiba. They have some pretty solid, decently priced laptops. One of the Second Skin guys on the forums just got a Toshiba, I believe. Turns out he loves it.

also remember with a 15, its only made for hitting lows. so if your considering it, dont plan on listening to any metal. LoL. Anyway, back to opinions and steering from false facts..which I guess then aren't facts..hmm. If you plan on upgrading to an AQ amp, then their subs wouldn't be a bad move. Actually, from what I here, their subs wouldn't be a bad move anyway. I dunno know though...those 10s might not put out the 'low bass' Heh. Heh. So everyone seems pretty split on which subs to go for. Seems almost like personal preference. Great. I hate making decisions

Yeah, I was actually giving some thought to 12's... But I think my trunk will be a bit small for 2 12's in a big enclosure like I'd want. My single 15" barely fits in the trunk. Got about 4" of space from sub to trunk edge.

also remember with a 15, its only made for hitting lows. so if your considering it, dont plan on listening to any metal. Thats not correct. A 15 can play anything, all depends on a box enclosure. And for your application i would do 2 sa-12s off a audioque 1200d and add another down the road. True that. I have 2 enclosures for my current sub. One for making your eardrums bleed, and one for giving them orgasm. On the latter, metal sounds just fine. And I completely forgot about Sundown. That's actually a great suggestion.

To begin with, It'll be a Kenwood KAC-9105D Monoblock (500wrms @ 40hm, 900@ 2, >900@1) eventually upgraded to an AQ 1200D or 2200D.