Jump to content

Lbox88

18+ All Access!
  • Posts

    11173
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    35

Posts posted by Lbox88

  1. MB Quart - Still owned by Maxxonics, but the next step above Hifonics. Little loss in rated power but probably closer to being true to work.

    DB Drive PD2000.1 - Heard mixed reviews on this one, supposedly rated at 12V instead of 14.4V, being current hungry but underrated. Check out what I've read HERE, HERE, and HERE.

    IDK though just from my personal experience if you can wait and save up the money, I'd check out trying another 1200 or send it in to be repaired or check into DC or Crescendo or one of the other various serious brands. I've wasted so much money trying to save a few bucks and being burned by cheaper equipment that I am fed up and my next build will end up being an expensive one due to my equipment choices.

  2. I would stay away from the Hifonics. I have the BRZ 2400.1D right now and I'm not all to happy with it. Basically tripled the rated power from my old ass class AB and there was nearly no audible difference, car just seems to shake a little more violently. Just my $0.02.

  3. Newegg.com can get a pretty decent laptop for pretty damn cheap. Don't know how you feel about brands or price but here is some examples.

    http://www.newegg.co...N82E16834158010

    http://www.newegg.co...N82E16834215039

    http://www.newegg.co...N82E16834215237

    EDIT: What kind of specs are you looking for? What is your price range?

    Screen: ?

    HDD: ?

    Processor Speed: ?

    OS: ?

    I bought my LG 47" LCD from them and they shipped it to me via Semi and I had that bish in less than 2 weeks. $1500 TV for $800 at the time. Not too shabby in my books. Don't know of any of my buddies having a problem with them and one orders stuff from them weekly because he re/builds computers on the side for extra $$$.

  4. God damn this job sucks. So far, I have worked 200 hours in 13 days... and 50% of my overtime I don't get due to a change in company policy... and the part I do get is just straight pay and also bumps me up into the next tax bracket, which means I get royally raped on taxes. Hit me up if you guys want with the days you're available for the next week and I'll try to set something up, but nothing is for sure. I've been working 12-14 hours a day the last couple of days, but last Saturday I worked a 22 hour shift. So unless something comes up, I should hopefully be free around 8ish each night.

    Jeff: PM coming your way.

  5. If you want to replace it, here is a MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCH better option for only a little bit more:

    Audiosavings HC600B

    Sonicelectronix HC600B

    And here's a CHEAP volt meter

    Capacitors just drain, drain, drain. I got one to play with a while back and wish I had never wasted the money. Also do the big 3 upgrade. You can go to my build log in my sig and on the last page I have redone most of mine with new 1/0. Looking at your amp's specs, it puts our 1200Wrms at 1 ohm right? if your hurt for cash, you can at least go pick up some 2 or 4 AWG battery cable from you local auto parts store and that would help. should be about $1-2 a foot and then you can buy some ring terminals for it.

    And I'm sorry if I come off as a bit of an ass. Like many of the people here, I'm just trying to save you from making the same mistakes that many of us did lol.

  6. DO NOT REPLACE THE CAP! Just get rid of it completely. A idle, you should be reading at least 13.5V, but normally you should be sitting between 13.8-14.8V

    EDIT: Take a meter and measure across your battery. Then measure from you alternator+ to the engine block. If you are measuring much higher at the alt+ than you are at the battery, make sure all your grounds and power wires are nice and clean and tight. I was measuring 14.5 off the alt to block and 13.3 on the battery due to problems with grounds at one point trippy.gif

×
×
  • Create New...