trjohnst

They are a solid, quality company, but are one of the more expensive ones. They do quite a bit of high end stuff for the football players around here (Julius Peppers), nascar drivers (Kurt Busch, Kasey Kahne), and some basketball players (Michael Jordan). They do good work, but at a higher cost; its kinda like West Coast Customs for the Charlotte area. That is my opinion of course.

I tested it with a small load. Just bumping softly, thats when I was measuring it at.

Full tilt as in test it while it is playing with a heavy load and check the lowest number the voltage gets?

At my amp. Pos on multimeter is on the pos. of amp and the neg of the multimeter is on the neg of the amp. This is where it should be tested right?

So i've been checking my amp voltage, and it seems to get a steady 14.4 Volts with my big 3 finished up. Is this good or does it need to be upgraded so that I can get 14.7 volts? I just got my alternator put back on (stock 80 Amp) and I am running at 14.4 volts without a strong load on it. If I do need to upgrade, what would be a good way to do it? I don't want to put a HO alt on this car because it wont last much longer and I dont want to waste money. Yes I understand that I could ruin the one I have and have to spend more money on another one, but I have a lifetime warranty on this one and can replace it whenever I want when it goes out, for free.

Where did you get the carpeting from?

What kind of controller are you talking about and do you have a link to look at?

I would think it would be some regulator in the amp, or the voltage regulator in your alt. But if everything else is working with your car, such as the head lights, battery light on the dash, etc, then it shouldnt be your voltage regulator. Check your 0 gauge wire all the way to the battery, and make sure it has no tears in it where it is touching metal or the chassis. If this is happening, it could be cutting the voltage. Another idea is your fuse, try changing it out and seeing if that helps. The fuse could see all the power and not be able to handle it due to a defective fuse, then it could give up and drop voltage, causing the amp to shut off.

Also, check the fuse. A blown or non-working fuse could be your problem.

Freeman's is not in Raleigh, but Charlotte and it's surrounding counties like Huntersville.

Hell yes, I would def. do that. Id love to see your box billy, I have a pair of the same RE Audios, cept 15s

I'm in Raleigh in school here and go back and forth between here and Charlotte. I know there are some places here in Raleigh near downtown and I know of a chain called "Freeman's" near Charlotte and surrounding areas. If you need further help, PM me.

I never said it was safer. But yes, I do have 1/0 wire.

Its a great match for the sub, even though I have my boost all the way up lol. It handles 1 ohm easily, and doesnt get too warm at all after about a good hard 10 min of straight playing.

Its 4.77 sealed, not ported. And yes Superchaged, I just got my Knu wire and will be using it. Yes, I also understand I should do my big 3 with 1/0 gauge instead of 4 gauge because I would get the most out of it with larger wire. No I did not go back and glue my box, I left it the way it is and it works perfect. I hope this is clear

So since I got my BC2000D, I have ran it with 1 AQ HDC3 copper 15" sub. I have a 4.77 ft^ gross volume box for 2 15's and was thinking about putting my other HDC3 in it with the one I already use in order to see if I gain some DB's. If I did this, I would run my BC2000D at 4ohms or at .5ohm. My amp gets around 13.7 volts, but I dont think I have the proper power supply to run it at .5ohms. In the case that I do, would I gain some SPL by running 2 HDC3 15's at .5 ohm in a 4.77 cubic foot sealed box, or to keep my regular setup which is 1 HDC3 15" in a slot ported box tuned in the mid/low 30s at 1ohm? I will hopefully be doing my big 3 this weekend/this week. So what I want to know is which one you guys think would give me the most SPL performance? Below is a pic of my sealed box with my RE's Here is my current box I also have another question, I have a 150Amp fuse under the hood, i have been told to add another 12" or closer to the amp, is this true? If so, how much does it need to be, another 150amp fuse?

Well I owned one for a while, it was like a 95' Jetta VR6 with 65k miles, and sold it after like 2-3 months. Got it, great car for driving. It was a great car but the windows went out twice and the car would randomly not start (which was a vacuum leak causing it not not start....so dumb). But they have really shitting electrical in their cars, IMO, and causing a lot of stuff to go wrong. Great price, great car, but not worth the constant repairs IMO.

This is just another reason why I will not buy another VW

Well it's an older car (91 Accord) and I am running a Crescendo BC2000D, so it needs a lot of help. I know I need an alternator and more but who knows how much longer this car is gunna last.

Instead of buying more 1/0 Knu wire, I was wondering how much if a difference it would make if I did 4awg wire on my Big 3 upgrade rather than 1/0awg wire. I was planning on using my Rockford 4awg wire or the other 4awg I have to do this, but didnt know how big a difference it would be if I did that rather than using 1/0awg wire.

I will take some CCA wire as long as it is along the lines of KnuKonceptz or something of that quality/oversized wire

DELETE

So I am about to take out my 4 gauge wire and replace it with some 1/0 gauge wire. My Crescendo BC2000D needs some 1/0 in order to receive enough power. I think I need about 20-25ft of it for my 91 Honda Accord, but I also need some to do the big 3 on my car. So I was thinking about buying 50ft, but if I can, I want to buy 25 ft. The best deal I found on Ebay was from Bullz Audio for $44 for 50 ft. Has anyone tried this brand because its a good price, but I dont know how thick their insulation is. I want something that works fine and is pretty cheap, I dont want to spend over $50, but I might have to. Give me some suggestions if you have any.

I decided not to use bolts and to solder it for a good connection without having the look of bolts on my box. I like to get my work/jobs done fast.

I got the new model SRX RE Audio 15's and posted something about my subs. I got 2 of them on ebay and after I had them outside while I was working on my box, bubbles came up in the cone because of the heat outside. Since they have a plastic cone on the outside (paper underneath), the plastic got hot and bubbled the cones. I returned them and got a new pair but havn't used them yet because I got AQ HDC3's. Their new stuff has lost its quality. There were some old model ones on ebay that had cap's without stickers on them and were fairly cheap. See if you can find them on ebay.