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252chevyboyz

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About 252chevyboyz

18+  All Access!
  • Birthday June 25

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Chevy's, Android, Car/Truck Upgrades, and Car Audio.

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  1. What would be the price of a 1.2k and a 2.0k shipped 27803? like what would the 1.2k be and What would the 2k be
  2. @rao: there are some great box designers here in community and their prices for designs are more than reasonable. I bet you could build it with the design @bobby: I really appreciate you looking out. If I wasn't saving for Alt, mid/high amp, some components I'd prolly do a little build with some 8's. Also gotta pick up about 20' of 1/0. I love my audio addiction but its expensive haha
  3. I appreciate it man. Still going to do all 8ga on the outside if the box and looking for some nice 10ga for the interior of the box. Might go 10ga for it all but I already got some 8ga I could use on the outside. What's going on with your box though man?
  4. @big: pretty cool yall look out for each other @bobby: looks like I'll be on the search for a cheap 200-400w amp in the next month or so. I want to build a t-line mainly for the challange of building it. I will post up any amp I see that I think I might buy to see what yall think about it. Shouldn't be hard to find something between 200-400w though Also I got a video up loading to YouTube of the SA-8 playing after I got the 1.5" aeros replaced with 2" aeros. Should be able to post it up shortly.
  5. @big: your lucky to know the owner like that so he can help you out. Thats a good shop right there @Bobby: I sure do appreciate it man. Hopefully someone one day can get some help from this thread. As for a t-line what do you think? 200-400w?
  6. You could email Debbie at Sundown and grab a blown woofer from them. The yardsale thread isnt open anymore but I believe they have a couple 10/12's but got plenty of 8's. I got $40 in the motor basket, $45 in the recone, and about $15-18 in supplies. So right about $100 in my venture. I didnt want to blow a sub so I just bought one from the company. Also I believe Skay has some blown MA-8's and they sell recones also.
  7. Haha I just can't afford a SMD 18. One day I will be able to afford the top of the line equipment tho. Ill sure help ya out if you ever need help reconing one of yours. Hopefully you won't be loosing any coils anytime soon tho bro. I will prolly always go with the aluminum SPL coils though cause its taking the power in throwing at and seems pretty happy as long as I'm like 1/2 tilt haha. ~1800w would prolly be too much for this woofer. Well it would've for extended periods of time. It will handle a 1.8k burp tho.
  8. I appreciate it bro. It was a really good learning experience and I'm glad to get the recone process under my belt. I just need to learn how to do direct leads and ill be set. 8 of these would be sick though. I would have to get lucky find 8 v1.5's. I'm addicted to 18's though. A t-line is in store for this 8 however. Breaking in the spider: (hope this vid works its through photobucket) http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa409/252chevyboyz/52DB2F08-1B4B-46D0-B2D6-26B36289DECF-2501-0000026B253E8747.mp4
  9. I sure appreciate it man. Haha If you were local I'd sure help you out. It takes a little time and a lot of patience. What you tryin to recone man?
  10. Well here is what I did. Got frustrated with the direct leads so went back with the push terminals. The box I threw together for it has a little port noise in it on low notes so I am going to replace the 1.5" aeros with 2" aeros. Also looking to build a t-line for this sub. I would need a t-line that would allow the sub to take around 1k rms
  11. I got the original push terminals but wouldn't direct leads be much more rugged and perform better than push terminals? Also given this sub will never see more than 1-1.2k rms Any tips on soldering direct leads? Like any specific solder or any certain method I should use when attaching/soldering them? Thanks, -James
  12. Now on to attaching the dust cap I used a piece of masking tape doubled over on itself to hold and help position the dust cap. Got some glue (loctite 5min epoxy) on the edge of the cap and i put it along the cone where the cap would touch. I used a round toothpick to place the glue on the cap and cone so I wouldn't make if look sloppy. Also I roughed up the cone where the cap would touch to give the glue a better chance at holding. Dust cap on and tape removed I put a full can on top to add some weight so it wouldn't move. I let it sit over night like this
  13. Once I got to attaching the surround I wiped the landing off twice. Once with alcohol and then a 2nd time with acetone. Then proceeded on Laid the glue (E-6000) down: I used a half of a paper clip to go along the edge if the surround to make sure it was pressed down in the glue. Just don't press too hard and squeeze all the glue out. Forgot to get pics of it paper clipped all the way around but here it is tack free and holding its own:
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