SkylarDunn

So it's not designed to burp? I saw a guy come out to a comp last season with a pair of those subs in a wall with a Sundown 4500 to each one, and refused to put it on the meter. Everyone of us were calling him a pussy for it. Why spend that kind of money on a loud sub if you can't do what you want with it? not at all, the SMD is an SQ sub, in the sense that it has very low coloration, smooth responce, can play super low frequencies with great output (in the correct application, of course), that doesnt mean that it isnt a loud sub, its a VERY loud sub, but you could get a louder sub for the money. FI BTL N1 for example. The lows would be nothing compared the SMD, but the output in the correct enclosure, the SMD wouldnt begin to compare in the 45-65hz range. The SMD is honestly the ultimate daily ground pounding woofer, but for competing, if you're running that, you're one confused soul lol. And op, based on the specs on the WCCA site, here is the port area in cubic inches you would need for a SMD 15" in 5 ft^3. 60hz - 192.8 55hz - 176.8 50hz - 160.7 45hz - 144.6 40hz - 128.6 35hz - 112.5 30hz - 96.42 25hz - 8 0.35 20hz - 64.28

The higher you tune, the more port area you need, you cant just block off one port, unless you feel like choking out your sub. I'd need the actual measured t/s specs of your sub to tell you how much you'd need. Also, why tune and SMD that high? Why not get an SPL sub? Thats not what the SMD is designed for, the smd is designed for high quality, high fidelity, smooth responce, and tundering lows, putting one in a box tuned to 45hz kind of defeats the purpose.

Port area/placement is irrelevant unless you know the thiele small parameters of the woofers, how much power is available, the airspace inside of the enclosure, and the desired tuning frequency. edit: port area/placement IS important, but without those other factors being known, figuring out the correct port area or location for the application is impossible. You cant make sure the panel resonance isnt in the lower frequency range without that data.

If you really want better quality, the best thing to do is run a 3.5mm cable from a netbook to the aux in on a HU, and use the HU as a preamp, then you'd be able to play whatever quality you want, aac, wma, mp3, flac, so on and so forth. Putting flac files on CDs is a little silly, due to the size. If you want better quality without alot of money, download Audacity, and learn how to remaster them.

you might be able to support a rockford 1501bd, 1600w RMS from 1-2ohms regulated, i ran both of mine at 1 ohm, never had a problem, you can find them as low as $150 on ebay, but i dont see any listed at the moment. You might want to check your local craigslist for some deals. There really isnt a reliable amp for under $300 that does decent power that isnt a few years old. Edit: before someone tells me off, saying that the audiopipe 3000 is a great 1 ohm stable amp, it will play at 1 ohm for a while, but its not designed for it, and alot of them have caught fire because of it. It might do 1100w RMS at 2 ohms if you dont have any clipping.

why crescendo? Because they're built well, priced well, and it uses the same board as the sundown 3500. If i was going to buy an amp, i'd buy one thats not going to blow its mosfets in a year (the audiopipe 3000 comes to mind, and its not even actually 1 ohm stable either)

also, at 120a, you have maybe 1000w worth of usable amperage, at .5 on a .5 stable amp, with imp. rise maybe 600w for both subs.

If you only have $300 to spend, keep saving, you wont get anything worth a damn for that price. Save up enough for an alt, put that in, then save up $500 for a crescendo 3500 (i dont remember what they cost off hand).

I did a quick search and found this, its 60" wide and $12 per yard, would it be any good at that price?? Click Me

So im looking to do some boston coaxials in the doors of my mercedes, i have everything buy the vinyl, i was wondering if you guys knew of a 2-3 way stretch black vinyl. I cant really seem to find anything in the sea of random nonsense on google shopping, the only stuff i was able to find is $17 a yard from stinger, a little more than i'd like to spend, so if you guys know of some better priced, or at the same price but higher quality, i'd love to know. Thanks!

Im suprised this thread doesnt have a page of posts by now... Edit: how do you like the DC lvl 3? im thinking of putting a lvl 3 10" d2 in my sisters car on a rockford 1501bD (1600w RMS should do the job )

Industrial sander with 20 grit wheel. Actually, i'd use mineral spirits or gasoline to try and disolve it, i've never know of an adhesive that gasoline doesnt just destroy.

i spy some rockford 16ga

Just as the title says, a thread just for pics of users subs. Just some of my project subs laying around. 15" Fi X BP Power( a hell of alot of sub for the money, havent had time to build a box for it yet) 8" 078c4 Kicker Comp (its alot tougher than you'd think, will be going in my sisters car on a cheap crunch 1400.2[garbage ass amps, but should be able to do 150w at 4.1 ohms]) 8" Tang Band 740P (has one coil on each side of the sub, going to be using it in a powered passive radiator setup, or a powered transmission line) 10" Planet Audio M2 (was one of my first subs, set me back $25 new in box back in the day) I already have the T/S Specs on here for the first two subs. My next purchase will be a D2 SA-15, so stay tuned to the ~actual~ Measured T/S Specs on it. After that, who knows. Maybe 4 SA-15s in a 4th order wall, in a c1500? :3 we'll see. Feel free to post amp pics, too!

a 6" flare would need at least an inch of flare to prevent chuffing, and MDF is only 3/4" deep in most cases...... Could always do 2 layers, but the price of a 1" roundover bit would cost more than a complete 6" aeroport.