SkylarDunn

So it's not designed to burp? I saw a guy come out to a comp last season with a pair of those subs in a wall with a Sundown 4500 to each one, and refused to put it on the meter. Everyone of us were calling him a pussy for it. Why spend that kind of money on a loud sub if you can't do what you want with it? not at all, the SMD is an SQ sub, in the sense that it has very low coloration, smooth responce, can play super low frequencies with great output (in the correct application, of course), that doesnt mean that it isnt a loud sub, its a VERY loud sub, but you could get a louder sub for the money. FI BTL N1 for example. The lows would be nothing compared the SMD, but the output in the correct enclosure, the SMD wouldnt begin to compare in the 45-65hz range. The SMD is honestly the ultimate daily ground pounding woofer, but for competing, if you're running that, you're one confused soul lol. And op, based on the specs on the WCCA site, here is the port area in cubic inches you would need for a SMD 15" in 5 ft^3. 60hz - 192.8 55hz - 176.8 50hz - 160.7 45hz - 144.6 40hz - 128.6 35hz - 112.5 30hz - 96.42 25hz - 8 0.35 20hz - 64.28

The higher you tune, the more port area you need, you cant just block off one port, unless you feel like choking out your sub. I'd need the actual measured t/s specs of your sub to tell you how much you'd need. Also, why tune and SMD that high? Why not get an SPL sub? Thats not what the SMD is designed for, the smd is designed for high quality, high fidelity, smooth responce, and tundering lows, putting one in a box tuned to 45hz kind of defeats the purpose.

Port area/placement is irrelevant unless you know the thiele small parameters of the woofers, how much power is available, the airspace inside of the enclosure, and the desired tuning frequency. edit: port area/placement IS important, but without those other factors being known, figuring out the correct port area or location for the application is impossible. You cant make sure the panel resonance isnt in the lower frequency range without that data.

If you really want better quality, the best thing to do is run a 3.5mm cable from a netbook to the aux in on a HU, and use the HU as a preamp, then you'd be able to play whatever quality you want, aac, wma, mp3, flac, so on and so forth. Putting flac files on CDs is a little silly, due to the size. If you want better quality without alot of money, download Audacity, and learn how to remaster them.

you might be able to support a rockford 1501bd, 1600w RMS from 1-2ohms regulated, i ran both of mine at 1 ohm, never had a problem, you can find them as low as $150 on ebay, but i dont see any listed at the moment. You might want to check your local craigslist for some deals. There really isnt a reliable amp for under $300 that does decent power that isnt a few years old. Edit: before someone tells me off, saying that the audiopipe 3000 is a great 1 ohm stable amp, it will play at 1 ohm for a while, but its not designed for it, and alot of them have caught fire because of it. It might do 1100w RMS at 2 ohms if you dont have any clipping.

why crescendo? Because they're built well, priced well, and it uses the same board as the sundown 3500. If i was going to buy an amp, i'd buy one thats not going to blow its mosfets in a year (the audiopipe 3000 comes to mind, and its not even actually 1 ohm stable either)

also, at 120a, you have maybe 1000w worth of usable amperage, at .5 on a .5 stable amp, with imp. rise maybe 600w for both subs.

If you only have $300 to spend, keep saving, you wont get anything worth a damn for that price. Save up enough for an alt, put that in, then save up $500 for a crescendo 3500 (i dont remember what they cost off hand).

I did a quick search and found this, its 60" wide and $12 per yard, would it be any good at that price?? Click Me

So im looking to do some boston coaxials in the doors of my mercedes, i have everything buy the vinyl, i was wondering if you guys knew of a 2-3 way stretch black vinyl. I cant really seem to find anything in the sea of random nonsense on google shopping, the only stuff i was able to find is $17 a yard from stinger, a little more than i'd like to spend, so if you guys know of some better priced, or at the same price but higher quality, i'd love to know. Thanks!

Im suprised this thread doesnt have a page of posts by now... Edit: how do you like the DC lvl 3? im thinking of putting a lvl 3 10" d2 in my sisters car on a rockford 1501bD (1600w RMS should do the job )

Industrial sander with 20 grit wheel. Actually, i'd use mineral spirits or gasoline to try and disolve it, i've never know of an adhesive that gasoline doesnt just destroy.

i spy some rockford 16ga

Just as the title says, a thread just for pics of users subs. Just some of my project subs laying around. 15" Fi X BP Power( a hell of alot of sub for the money, havent had time to build a box for it yet) 8" 078c4 Kicker Comp (its alot tougher than you'd think, will be going in my sisters car on a cheap crunch 1400.2[garbage ass amps, but should be able to do 150w at 4.1 ohms]) 8" Tang Band 740P (has one coil on each side of the sub, going to be using it in a powered passive radiator setup, or a powered transmission line) 10" Planet Audio M2 (was one of my first subs, set me back $25 new in box back in the day) I already have the T/S Specs on here for the first two subs. My next purchase will be a D2 SA-15, so stay tuned to the ~actual~ Measured T/S Specs on it. After that, who knows. Maybe 4 SA-15s in a 4th order wall, in a c1500? :3 we'll see. Feel free to post amp pics, too!

a 6" flare would need at least an inch of flare to prevent chuffing, and MDF is only 3/4" deep in most cases...... Could always do 2 layers, but the price of a 1" roundover bit would cost more than a complete 6" aeroport.

I really hope you dont think thats a flare. Its a complete opposite. Unless you can make an ACTUAL FLARE yourself, dont cut corners. buy the right thing. What was made in those videos will give no performance benefits, and will make the port chuff even more than not having a flare. chuffing is bad, if you arent aware. How soon will you need a flared piece of PVC? as soon as i can afford a new circle jig, im going to start selling them on here. You can buy partial ports (for use with elbows), complete ports, or just the flares them selves.

Subs are irrelevant. If your 15"s are in a generic prefab and the 8"s are in a box designed around their T/S specs, it could easily be louder.

Fuel system cleaner is great, if you want your seals to fall apart in the next 500 miles. Also, dont EVER put seafoam in your gas unless its the rare seafoam made specifically to be put in gas. The way you should use seafoam would be to add it to your oil, let the engine idle for 10 min, then drain the oil, and replace it. I really hope you dont put seafoam in your gas.

First thing i would do, have a code reader put on the Ecu. I'd guess either your fuel pump wiring circut has a problem, your injectors are bad, you need an o2 sensor (just put one in my grandfather suburban) or your ECU is reading something wrong and need to be re-flashed. Edit: also, you could buy a can of MAF cleaner and clean the mass air flow sensor. It might not be the problem, but at that many miles, it would at least need to be cleaned, if not replaced.

You do understand thats good for you.... right? Your body needs Iron. Also, there is no such thing as "toxic iron" I dont remember how, but i know with cereal thats high in iron, water, a spoon, and something else, you can actually make a compass. Edit: Also, yes. this is 100% real.

Port needs a flare. hit it with a 3/4" roundover bit one time, will take about 3/8" off of the total length of the port but will unload alot better, because it wont be chuffing. you ALWAYS need a flare. Might take your port design for my next box build x)

I had the same problem with an avalanche, problem turned out to be the balasts for the HIDs, But your problem sounds like its most likely a ground loop issue.

Its good to be back on the forum And to answer your question, both are fine, shape doesnt matter one bit, its having enough port area for your sub to reach a healthy full XmaX, and you MUST have a flare on your port, because if you dont, you'll have chuffing, and port noise. to the comment that color doesnt have anything to do with it, that isnt entirely true. The color black creates drag in sunlight, but thats almost irrelevant. to find out how much flare you'll need, you can download a port flaring program, such as Flare-It

the t/s specs i measures on mine after about 150 hours of hard play time: voice coil impedence: 3.507 Ohms Fs: 75.09hz Qts: 0.694 Qes: 0.911 Qms: 2.905 Voice coil inductance: 0.676mH @ 1khz Sd: 15.89 in^2 in my opinion, they sound f***ing terrible, the woofers have very little responce past 1500hz and the tweeters are complete junk. if you got yourself some dayton 6.5"s and tweets, as well as build your own crossover network (easy and cheap for a -6dB setup) it would sound much, much, much nicer. My setup was a 6.5" in each door of my jeep cherokee, point sourced, entire door sealed and deadened.

Just de-clip it, and export at -0.1dB @ 320kbps. its not that hard.