KyleRhone

There is an LOC between the factory amp and the subwoofer amp that is converting the signal

A friend of mine has a 2007 Lexus IS250 that keeps killing amps. It has gone through 4 now. We have never had issues an any other cars until he got this one. We have tried upgrading wiring, checked grounds, and made sure the subs weren't running at some crazy ohm load. We cannot figure out what is wrong. Can anyone give us any pointers? Current set-up 2 kicker CVR 12" 4ohm DVC - coils wired in series up to 8ohm and subs wired in parallel back to 4ohm. Skar audio 4 guage wiring Line output wired from factory amp to subwoofer amp It is currently on its now second toasted skar audio 1200.1D

I'm in no way anywhere close to professional. I've never built anything custom (boxes, kick panels, etc) but this is disgusting. I do all my friends installs (mostly cause i don't have a car or the funds to do my own) and i would never ever do anything like this. What would make them think it's okay to glue tweeters to the cone of the midrange???

I think its that sony 600w, his stock should be fine. But it never hurts to upgrade electrical op. it's not the sony amp. just used it as an example... i'm planning on running two amps. a 1600W and a 700W crunch it was just an example

i'm getting a diesel which will have 2 batteries and i plan on doing the big 3, you think i'll be fine with that?

it's general... i should be able to post anything here

i know how to wire a capacitor normally but i'm looking into one that has built in distribution blocks so can i wire it like this?? ps. why do all my posts keep getting delted? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33661_Audiobahn-ACAP7J.html?from=141-6

Thanks again! you just gave me the answers to things i've been wondering for awhile now

Thank you! now one more question... i always do all my window shopping on sonicelectronix and when looking at amps i always see things like RMS bridged @ 4ohms. i never see anything talking about 8ohms. so an 8ohm sub will work on a 4ohm stable amp correct?

ok so on the bottom of the sub it says 800W, so that would mean RMS it would run 400W at 8ohms?

so i pulled this subwoofer out of a limo my dad is driving. the wires were cut and it was being unused so my dad said just take it. it was hooked up to a normal stereo amp with no low pass filter and i'm pretty sure the sub is blown. i don't have an amp to test it right now but when i pulled the subwoofer out of the box i was kind of suprised. now i'm no audio pro but i would say i know a decent amount. (i did hook up my friends whole system in his truck even though his subs are over powered right now due to the amp he had) my question is. does this wiring set-up even work? i've never seen a sub wired like this before, please give me as much info as possible. include info about what it does to ohm load and yada yada yada. sub is an AudioTech AT - 1044

wish i had a system to slap. my system's bone stock :/