Ragehole

price for 3.5k and 5k please? zip is 54612

also he wants it tuned to 35 hz's, i think its a good spot to be tuned to but how much port, i know the guy on top of the page said give it generous amounts of port but what does he mean by that. how many square inches of port per sub. i have a 18 inch btl in my eclipse tuned to 35 with 100 square inches of port and that thing is killer. but we are not talkin about a btl or an 18 . so im not sure on the port either.

we will have 3 ark audio 2.5k amps on 4 stinger sv70 batteries and one optima yellow top. with a 200 amp alternator. i told him its probably not enough power battery wise but he says its good for now. we will have 2 subs per amp. i believe they are dual 4 ohm subs but they could be dual 2's, im not sure.

full size 4 door.

alright guys. its been a while since ive been on here but my buddy wants me to build him a box for his truck. its a 2006 chevy colorado. he has 3 type x's in there now but he wants more and the only way to do that is to build a whole new box. the box the 3 are in was built for some sundown NSv.2's but he got rid of those and went to the type x's. he has 6 so we are doing all 6. my question is how big do you guys think i should go with the box and the port size. i know its gunna be a slot port and i know the subs are all going to face forward along with the port. just how big do i go with the box and how many square inches of port should i be around. i know how to tune a box and everything so i dont need help with that i have just never known anybody to do so many of this sub and am not sure so i figured i would maybe get some other opinions before i start cutting. any input will help. thanks guys.

the 3 weres where the issue. i got everything fixed up and it works like a champ now. thanks for everybodys input i appreciate it.

so im still having the issue.... i found these 3 wires comming out of my rear view mirror that had come disconnected. idk if those may have anything to do with why the fuse keeps blowing but i also noticed that my sunroof doesnt work either now. they must all be tied into eachother on that fuse. could these wires from my mirror touching be enough to short that fuse out. they are for my lights that are in the mirror? i have taped them off for now till i can get it fixed. my windshield flexes like an inch and a half or so when the bass is on so i think that my be my short... let me know what you guys think.

i pulled the head unit and switched the fuse with it out and it seemed to have worked for now. i will report back if i have any more problems with this issue. thanks every body who had something to say. i really appreciate it. I really missed my beats. Bassheads for life!!!!

thats what i was thinking about doing. this is actually the second pioneer headunit of this type. the first one also did this same thing. i will let you guys know what happens.

so i found a fuse under the hood that i didnt check kuz i didnt think it would have to do with the radio. and i replaced it and the radio worked for about 5 minutes and then kicked the fuse out again. now every time i try to replace the fuse, the second i put the new one in it pops the new one. any ideas. thinking a ground issue somewhere or possibally a positive wire touching somewhere?

yeah, they are all clear so you can see right through them to see if the metal inside is broken. there are no loose wires and no corrosion on any termanal or wire or fuse.

I pulled every fuse in the car that i could find and checked to see if any were broken. and no there are no common wires between the radio and the keyless entry.. before my radio completely went out it was flickering on and off like you were hitting the pause button on and off then the music was wandering between all my speakers like the amp was serging power and didnt know which speaker to send it to so it was just randomly sending it to whichever one it wanted. then the radio finally went out.

i checked all the fuses. they are all good. idk if any relays would deal with this but it is kinda annoying. i havnt checked the ignition. i was talking to my dad about it and he thinks that maybe my battery is going bad but the car starts fine and runs great with no hesitation at all. all other electronics work great other than my one window motor but i think that is just going bad. but my stereo doesnt work and my keyless entery doesnt work when car is off. those are my issues anybody else with any ideas, please send them my way.

the car is a 2000 mitsubishi eclipse gs. i have a big 3 upgrade(all 0/1gauge wire) with a pioneer headunit, polk audio all around on an alpine 4 channel amp, with a Hifonics 2500.1hfi monoblock amp on an 18 inch FI BTL N2. all 0/1 gauge all around.

yes, the car has had the headunit in it for about 3 years now and ive been doing little upgrades to it when i can afford them. my most recent upgrade was my big 3. i have had a optima red top in since i bought the car. ive had little bumps in the road with it here and there but nothing wierd like this. im pretty sure its just a couple fuses but i just thought i would see what everybody else thought.

so i got done with work today, and as i was driving home i decided to bump my stereo a little bit. and while i was doing so my stereo was kicking in and out like the cd was skipping, so i didnt think anything of it but it kept doing it so i decided to switch to my ipod. it kept doing it. finally my stereo kicked completely out.... the car kept running and my windows and power locks still worked. well when i shut the car off my power locks dont work and my keyless entery doesnt work anymore. but the car starts fine. no issue. all electrical works fine if the car is running but the stereo doesnt and nothing works when i shut it off. do you guys think that it is just a fuse that blew or something more major. i have a big 3 upgrade with a fuse inbetween the alternator and battery. i checked that and it is good. i checked all the fuses for the stereo accept the ones on the back of the stereo its self. do you think there is another fuse i could check? somebody give me some input please.

Wondering if you have tried the AQ 2200 before and compared it to your hifonics 2600. I used to have the aq 1200 for a year and had the hifonics 1600 before it and they were honestly almost the same output with the hifonics being slightly louder. Also i read on here a while back that the aq 2200 and the hifonics 2610 share similar boards so they sound very similar. Just adding this info since im trying to say the hifonics can hold its own with the aq in my experience. thats what i was thinking, that they put out similar power but i am looking for something different kuz i dont believe that the hifonics is pushing anywhere near 2500 let alone 2000, im thinking its closer to maybe the 1600-1800 range even after my voltage drop. which is better than what i had previously. i just upgraded the big 3 yesterday and im adding another battery by spring but im just look for others imputes. thanks for commenting.

i would stay with a hifonics if i was you and get a new brz im pretty sure you can get a brand new brz2400 for $400 and u can get a new bxi 2k for less than $300 on amazon...another thing is craigslist is full of ppl trying to sell sht that has been raped and abused ...get a new amp .... also how do u like the HFI2500? i have the same amp im not impressed by the power but its pretty tough takes .7 ohm daily.... I like my HFI2500. it does the job better than my last amp did. but i know there is room for improvement from that amp. im thinkin im in around the 143db to 145db range now but i havnt had it metered since i had this amp. the last time i metered i hit a 141 on an alpine mrp1000 running on 1 voice coil. since then, ive upgraded my power wire, my alternator, sound deadened my trunk and back half of my car, and got the hfi since then but i know this sub can handle more.

ok heres my debate. im not really sure between the two. i currently own a hifonics hfi2500.1 monoblock running my btl 18n2. but i was searching on my local craigslist page and came across a audioque 2200d and i was doing some research on this amp and cant decide which is better. the guy wants 400$ obo. is this a good deal or should i stick with my hifonics. which do you guys think would be a better match for my btl. i cant really afford much more right now so any suggestions on maybe a different amp to look at also would be awesome.

alright. i got a 2000 mitsubishi eclipse, a btl n2 18 and a hifonics hfi 2500.1. right now my box is built to be a little over 6cu'ft. its tuned to 31hz and the last time i had it metered i was hitting a 140 but i know i can do better.i did the 140 on an alpine m1000, so ive upgraded in power amp wise. the sub and port are firing into the back window. the box was very rushed when i built it. i needed it for a comp the next day. so now i want to build a good box for next season but i came on here to get some peoples in put on how i should build it for my car. should i leave it the way it is and just do some minor things like upgrade the alternator and add batteries. should i go bigger with the box or smaller? and what way should i have the sub facing and the port facing. any in put will help. i also just ordered a 140 amp alternator. here is a link to my car at this moment.