Loslam

There's still a lot of port area missing, the holes are cut for 12s, etc. Would be louder if you made your own

That's a good battery to replace your stock, you'll probably only drop to mid 12s now. That being said only adding batteries if you're dropping pretty low is just adding more for the alternator to recharge. Still 1200 rms shouldn't be TOO hard on stock alt if you've got sufficient wires for your big 3, good luck

Damn that's low , he lied and said it was 35hz. Can you tell me how cubes each sub gets and wat to cut the port down to tune it to 33 hz. There are too many errors to easily fix it. I'd suggest making your own box and getting some experience along the way bro (too many cubes, not enough port area, port is too long into box)

First go with OFC 1/0 and do at least two runs of both pos and neg. or at least 2 grounds from rear batteries to frame not chassis.

Yes it will do you fine

You're drawing power from power you already have. There is no addition of power there. Vs another battery/alternator now there is a change in energy/power

Is the hum only with your car on? Could be engine noise, which would only be when car is on and the hum changes via gas pedal That is caused by a ground in the wrong place or RCAs being too close to power/ground wires

If the time it takes to get your alt isn't a big factor, DC Power makes good quality alts Typically a few pennies more but worth it https://www.dcpowerinc.com/

Just get a tape measure out and find some dimensions to fit where you want, and here is a great box tuning calculator. Pretty simple to figure out and use http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator/

By bogging out and not starting, do you think it feels or sounds like it's getting too much gas to the point it's flooding? If so then that could be something as simple as a bad sensor somewhere, notorious on these vehicles...check your coolant temp sensor, O2 sensors and MAF sensor If they're bad it's telling the computer to richen or lean the hell out of your fuel which would explain your problems ex: bad coolant temp sensor saying it's -40 degrees -> tells pcm MOAR FUEL -> dies at idle

That's what I plan on lol

So like this for the ported?

Thanks for the help, Wouldn't tuning to 37 be overkill almost for a 4th order on the lows? Not doubting just questioning. And 5 sealed total, so 2.5ish per 18 or 5 in common chamber? So if this is braced well would this rough design work? Sorry for so many questions lol. many questions -> making the best from one build

Hey guys, I currently have a ported box for two HDC3 18s tuned to 34 hz and it pounds, but we all know you're never done and we all have to be in the middle of a build.... So I decided I want to try my luck at a 4th order bandpass for the first time and see how the box does. I've heard nothing but great things from 4th orders along with the low end response and efficiency. I want it to be a low monster, and it will be going in the back of my extended cab 97 silverado. Here are some pictures just roughly making an idea of IF I have enough room and IF this box looks fine Let me know if this idea of a box would work, or any other ideas for me.... Thanks! Currently around 3ish cubes each sealed and a 12.5ish common chamber ported, 200 sq inches of port and 45 hz Sealed view: Full view: Full view 2:

edit: I'm a noob and didn't see you've already went your route Sorry for the post bump

If not 2.5 it will be at least around there, if it is just the stock single pipe. Go measure it or just buy a 2.5 in/out muffler. If you have a little experience welding you can pretty easily weld 2.25 to 2.5, or just buy an adapter pipe from local autozone/advanced and then weld And I agree with the flowmaster 44 series. Anything that is meant to be close to straight pipes(glasspack, 1 chamber mufflers, etc) won't sound all that mean with anything except a V8, it'll be a little ricey sounding imo. Good luck with whichever muffler

Well a 600 watt 6 channel sounds to me like 100-200 rms. Which isn't pulling much at all. So just find a place on the chassis, sand it off and tap a bolt/nut or screw. With that much power you don't really need to do big 3, but it's always there for future builds/upgrades.

How much power is your system pulling? I'd try to get enough wire to make it to a good clean frame ground, but if not a sanded off body/chassis ground would work. Then just make sure your big 3 is done and a body/chassis ground is to the engine block under the hood.