afrakes

Thanks for the input! anybody have any experience with the above mentioned products?

I have no idea what kind of voltage drops I have, but I do have an issue with dimming headlights, dome lights, etc. I will be doing my big three at some point in the near future as well as other electriacal upgrades and along with being able to see the improvements in voltage as I upgrade, I would like to be able to see where my battery is at on a day to day basis. The problem is I have no idea where to buy a digital voltage meter, what brands are good and not, as well as how to install them as I have never done so before. I dont want to cut into my dash to install, so something that can be mounted near the stearing column would be a plus. Any advice helps! Thanks!

no. you set it a couple hertz below your box tuning. frequency response listed on paper has nothing to do with the subsonic filter setting. Same how I do it,... 3-5hz "or so" below enclosure tune......

No, you want to set the sub sonic filter at the lowest frequency your sun can handle. For my dd 12 I have it set at 25hz I believe. It all depends on your particular sub!

Go to the12volt.com, that will explainmore in detail how to wire a sub. And no, u have to set ur gains on ur amp directly. Gains are what control how much power ur sub is receiving. When the bass know is turned all the way down, there will still be some power going to the sub, when the bass knob is turned all the way up, I t will only go as high as ur gains on the amp will allow it to go... And I sure as hell wouldn't feed it 500 watts rms, thts a little overboard, I turned mine up to 425 for a day to c how it sounded and it just sonded off and began to clip. I would say 400-410 max when its broken in

So I don't have an alarm on my car, but considering the amount of money I have into it, its time to get one. I know viper is the best, but they are also costly. I don't need anything huge, but just something to deter thieves with a flashing led and that would go off if someone popped out the lock on my trunk or busted out a window. My budget is 100 bux right now. Anything is appreciated! Also, I have always done all of my own work on my car (basic mechanical things, subs, amps speakers, etc.) How hard is it to install an alarm with no previous experience? Because if I have to pay to have it installed that would probably have to be taken into accound when determining which alarm to purchase.

The sub is rated at 350 watts rms, but it can handle more once broken in... I run mine at 400 rms, never had the sub get warm at all even on 2-3 hour road trips with continuous bumping... I would personally go with the rockford u picked out, especially since it comes with the wiring as well. I didn't look to see what brand the wire was, if stinger or anything alike, it will get you by but it won't be easy to work with. But rockford amps are great, rarely overheat, unless run improperly. And they also put out the power they say they do. As for impedence, you have the option to buy a single 4 ohm voice coil or a dual 4 ohm voice coiled sub. Definately purchase the dual 4, easy parallel wiring in the voice coils (+to+, -to-) to bring it down to 2 ohms, where the rockford amp is pushing 500 watts rms. Also makes it easier if you upgrade to a second sub in the future to wire down to 1 ohm on a better amp that is stable at that impedence. Obviously, you need to break in the sub, took mine about 10 days with steady increases on the power until it got to 350 rms, then bumped it up to 400 rms a month later. So you will have a little extra power to spare, but if nothing else, everyone knows rockford whether they are into bass or not, so selling in the future shouldn't be a problem as long as its still in good working order.

Depends if u counter sink the sub our not, also depends on the manufacturer, I'm not sure about those guys, never owned or installed any

Good choice, what amps are your looking at now?

If u are switching down to a 10, then no, it won't get as low or deep. From my experience, sealed boxes have never gotten as low as my ported boxes, but they sounded a whole hell of a lot cleaner. That couls also be because my boxes have all been tuned to 33 hz, but it also just depends on the sub in which u are running

Cheap (kinda) speakers that get loud for the price ar the kicker ks series, the l7 isn't a bad sub by any means, but I would personally reccomend the digital designs 500 series 12". My brother ran a 15 l7 on 1200 watts rms and I currently am running a dd 512 on 350 watts rms. Although his sub was a lot louder, partly Because it was in a regular cab pickup truck whereas mine is in a trunk, my sub hits harder than all of friends who are running dual 12 rockford P2s and single 15 cvrs. The sub is only 100 bux, u can buy directly from the dd website, and u would also spend considerably less on an amp. The dd 512 bangs if u set it up correctly. My box is 2.5 cubes and a flare port tuned to 33 hz. Sonic electronix is great for a dash kit, wiring harnesses, etc for ease of install. Check out renegade amps and hifonics amps. Hifonics: bang for your buck. Renegade: produced by rockford fosgate, great, reliable amp, and its what I am running. That's just my little bit of advice. Good luck and let us know what u decide!

With my hu I set my low pass at 56 hz and my high pass also at 56 hz. I actually have a question about that, if my low pass is at 56, can I set my high pass at say 220 hz? Would I still hear the full range of frequencies and protect my tweeters better or would I be missing all the tones in that gap? The reason I ask is because I still have my 6.5s running off the deck as well as my 3.5s, and both are on the same output on my hu because of the way my car is set up. And also, would the speakers u reccomended still sound good just running off the deck? I have no plans of putting them on an amp because of small funding

To be honest I don't even know the amps specs, it was just an old amp my neighbor gave to me out of his garage, its a frontier amp, 2x100 rms, but that's all I know... I googled the seriel number and model number and all but came up empty handed. But I put it on the rear speakers for the simple reason that when I put it on the fronts I couldn't even tell the 6x9s existed. With it on the rear speakers I got more of a sorround sound feel. I'm more of a believer to have more powerful rear speakers and less so in the front to create that even sound when sitting in the front seats. But I know nothing about the amp lol, when I have more money I will eventually upgrade, but next on my list is gitting those 3.5s in working order because it adds so much depth in my cars set up

Alright I will check em out, thanks

Yes, my dash 3.5s and my front door 6.5s, not sure how to change that without adding an amp tho, my 6x9s in the rear deck are on an amp, so I'm not sure if I could hook up the front doors to be on their own outputs?

Hey guys: So I drive an 05 dodge neon, and I blew out the stock 3.5" dash speakers very quickly. When I did my last build about 3 months ago, I replaced them with a pair of clarion coaxials, just because they happened to be on sale at my local car audio shop. Long story short, they blew also, within a month. I took them out about a month ago and have just been driving around with nothing in there. I'm hoping somebody has reccomendations on what to buy, what not to buy, etc. I'm obviously done with clarion, but was thinking about going with the kicker ks series 3.5s for the simple reason that I am running KS series 6.5s and 6x9s and have never had an issue. The 3.5s will just be running off the deck (25 watts per channel), and my budget is 100 bux. Hit me with your ideas!

Thank you all!

I gotta say go with the DD. Although I only have their entry level 500 series 12 (ran out of funds lol), I have heard and had experience with the 2500 series as well as the 9500 series. They are just built so well and are so damn strong to whatever you throw at them, even the entry level 500 is made of steel compared to my old systems and what my buddies have (for a lot less money than they spent too). Although I have to agree, if u dont have a minimum of 2.5 cubes per driver, I would steer clear. My 512 is in a 2.5 cube box @ 33 hz and it knocks for a $100 sub. But I sure as hell wouldnt put even this sub in a smaller box. 3-3.5 cubes per driver with those 3500 series would be prefferable IMO. Becuase they do like to move A LOT OF AIR!

I am doing a build for a friend and he specially requested 2 12" Rockford Fosgate P3 DVC 4 woofers. I dont have too much experience shopping for Rockford gear (none shopping for subs). Anyone know the best place to buy from experience? Any where offer discounts on a multiple sub purchase? thanks in advance!!

No, just a control of loww pass filters and I can control whether its on or off, but I can't be anywhere in the middle...

it came with the amp. it says "wired bass knob included" same amp, renegade 850s. just havent installed it yet...

Bout to put a bass knob in my car. My amp gains and everything are perfect, just want to be able to turn them down and not hear all the bass sometimes. When I have the bass knob all the way on max, does that overrride my gain settings and turn my amp up higher than it should be, or does it just allow my amp to play up to but no more than my gain settings? Anything helpps, thanks!

Lookin more at ones like this.. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1547153/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046

Not you, but when people come in telling me that I shouldn't ever do any instals because they assume without knowing, yah it upsets me a little. Your response was exactly what I was looking for, so I thank you for that.

Wiring a renegade 850s. 425 watts rms. 50 amp inline fuse with 2x25 amp fuses on the amp itself. Running it to a diesel 10" dvc 4 ohm. Final impedance of 2.