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Found 54 results

  1. So i will have a 2000 watt amp running two new 10" KIcker CWR 600 Watt RMS subs. Sense each will be getting around 1000 watt max each sub when really needed. I already have the box and 14 Gauge Speaker wires and all. Anyways apart from that i have a stock 60AMP alt and a crap battery. I'm going to be upgrading with a new battery and Alternator and hook it all with 0 AWG. My question is what battery and what size Alternator should i get? i'm looking at the yellow tops but still i'd like some opinions on what i should go and budget i'd say is around $600. and just for the giggles this system is going in a single cab F-100 Half ton Pickup with the famous bullet proof engine
  2. Okay... I know most people hate capacitors..but i like them. Anyways I have two twelves and two tens. I have a 10 farad capacitor. One of my amps only has one set RCAs and the other has two. Can anyone help me on wiring this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Wade
  3. I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe, currently have 2 Skar Audio VVX 15s on 2K Watts in a 30Hz ported box. I have the subs sitting Up and the Port facing the rear (trunk lid). I plan on getting one or two PSI 18's soon but am having trouble figuring out what to do next. I LOVE LOW NOTES. And just dont feel that the Skar's put out the Lows loud enough (VVX 15 has an FS of 38hz, the PSI P3 18 is 27HZ!). I will be hopefully installing Murder Mat sound deadener soon which im sure will make the lows better, but still, im after LOUDER CLEANER Lows that my whole body can feel while still sounding amazing. I need to ask you guys (especially those with very high-end systems), how do i achieve clean loud lows?? Im aware that Box design is crucial. Would Subs Up Port Up be better for lows? Or having the subs and port both facing forward towards me? Also lets say for a single 18" sub, what Cubic FT should the box be for clean loud lows? Yes, Im pretty noobish at systems but im learning so anyone with advice please feel free to help thanks.
  4. After looking around and finding lots of great information I would like to ask a question. I have 2 18 inch OA v1s (gottem for next to nothing!) which I would like to make a box for. My max dimensions are H17 x W39 x L36. which would be about 10.8 Cu. Ft. I'm having a little trouble figuring out the slot port dimensions to be in the 28-30 Hz range for ported. Even with the slot port the box would be at least 10 Cu. Ft. (I hope!) which is acceptable according to the OA website the ported volume should be about 4.5 to 6 Cu. Ft. each. I'm currently using Torres Box Calculator. I'm also wanting Sub up/Port up so I can build it as big as I can and that's where I get confused. According to the OA site one 18 needs from 28.3 in^2 to 50.24^2 of port area. If I stay between those two numbers I should be fine? I would double the area of course since there are two subs (56.6 to 100.48). Is there enough room to port them properly? Or should I just seal it? I will only be putting recommended wattage to them ...600 if that matters any. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here are the specs if anyone is interested in lending a hand. Obsidian 18" v2 D2 Re: 3.97 Ohm Fs: 25 Hz Qms: 4.48 Qes: 0.840 Qts: 0.707 Vas: 156 Le: 3.72 mH BL: 19.12 SPL: 86.88 dB Sd: 1217.34 cm^2 Mms: 479 g Xmax: 20mm Peak-to-peak: 62mm (2.45") Power Handling: 600 watts RMS Recommended enclosure info: Sealed ~ 3.5 to 5 ft^3 Ported ~ 4.5 to 6 ft^3 @ 28 to 32 Hz Cutout: 16.7" OD: 18.5" Mounting depth: 9.5" Mounting flange to top of surround: 1.5" Displacement: 0.25 ft^3 EDIT: I believe I'm going sealed...The previous owner had them in a ported box ...I believe 11 cubes with a cheaper Planet Audio amp and they sounded Amazing! There is no way I'm getting it 11 cubes and ported ....hell I was messing around with the Torres box calc. and can barely get 9 cu ft with port displacement...so sealed it is for now unless someone has any other options? I would love to try ported first...never had a ported sub..... help a mofo out!!!! EDIT EDIT: Been doing more measuring and it looks like I will be able to build a ported box at about 11- 12 cu. ft. Not sure on the exact dimensions of the box but it will be bigger on top. Not a slanted box but ...sort of a box in top of a box if that made any sense....anyways buying mdf tomorrow. Still trying to figure out the Port Thanks!
  5. Alright, So admittedly this is my first time doing a big three with 0 gauge, so this may be a newb problem. But I have a 2005 Mini Cooper S and the battery is in the back. I am running SHCA 0 gauge from alt to battery. The issue is SHCA Lug is so thick and with the stock lug too there isn't enough threads on the Alternator Bolt to get the nut back on. Its barely too short. Anyone have a simple solution? One additional question: I have one 300 amp fuse about 6" from the alt to the battery in the rear is about 12'. Do i need a second fuse by the battery? Thanks Guys!
  6. Hey guys, I'm trying to build a fourth order for 4 soundqubed hds200 15's. Need help because I've never built a box like this before and I want some input on what people think on what I've got so far. On the ported side I plan on giving the woofers 4.5 cubic ft each so in all a total of 18. And on the sealed side I plan on giving them 1.5 cubic ft each so a total of 6. I wanted to tune it to around 32 hz so for the port I plan making an 11x11 square port that's 3.25 deep. So give me some feed back on whether this sounds good or bad haha, thanks.
  7. I just bought a new 200A alt from a person. It is supposed to work for my 2002 dodge stratus coupe R/t 3.0L, as it is for a Mitsubishi Eclipse. The bolt pattern is exactly the same but the plugs are different. My car has a stock alt with a 4 pin pattern and this alt has a 2 pin pattern. Is there any way that this could work or is it simply useless to me?
  8. I need some 10 gauge copper lugs for the direct leads on my SoundQubed HDC3. The smallest I can find online are 8 awg copper lugs.. I plan on using a hydraulic crimper so I could probably get away with 8 awg but really would prefer 10 awg. The speaker wire I plan on using is Knukonceptz KL3 10 gauge is this oversized or awg? Does anyone know where I can buy some good 10 awg copper lugs (maybe even 10 awg heat shrink too)? Also is this an acceptable method to wire down to 1-Ohm (see below)? It's my first direct lead sub so I'm used to just wiring it at the push terminals. What kind of bolts should I use? What would give me the best conductivity?
  9. Hello everyone hope all is well and hope that some of you can help me with my new ported box build for my 2 12" Pioneer TSW304R's. They are currently in a prefab sealed box that was given to me along with the subs and amp from my brother in law. He doesnt know much about car audio and ordered the small sealed box which barely meets the specs for the 2 subs. I am wanting a box design that is around 3 cubes shared internal volume with an aero port tuned to maybe 32 hz still undecided about what to tune the port to. May want to have the port external. Anyways below are the Thiele/Small Parameters. I do have experience with building boxes in the past but they were always simple boxes to fit the vehicle nothing specific like I am wanting to do this time with my own setup. I just have never used software to design a box and rather have someone that knows what they are doing help me with the design. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Thiele/Small Parameters Nom. Dia.(In) 12 Qts 0,70 Qms 13,30 Qes 0,740 Fs [Hz] 28,6 Vas [l] 77,88 Vas [ft3] 2,75 Vd [l] 0,245 Vd [ft3] 8,64E-03 Sd [m2] 5,20E-02 Sd [ft2] 0,560 Revc [Ω] SINGLE 3.0 Levc [mH] (2000Hz) 2,390 Xmax [mm] 4,7 Xmax [in] 0,19 Zmax [Ω] 40,9 BI [Tm] 10,39 Rms[Ns/m] 2,010 Mms [g] 149,50 Cms [m/N] 2,100E-04 Mg.Wt.[g] 940 Flux Density [Gauss] 6210 Hag [mm] 6 Hag [in] 0,236 Hvc [mm] 15,5 Hvc [in] 0,610 VC.Diameter [mm] 40 Eff [%] 0,21 S.P.L. [dB] 95,0 R.M.S.Power [W] 300 M.M.P. [W] 1300 Sp. Displacement [l] 1,66 Sp. Displacement [ft3] 0,059 Recom. Enclosure [l] 35,4 Recom. Enclosure [ft3] 1,25 F0 (in Cabinet) 51,2 Q0 (in Cabinet) 1,252
  10. Hi, I have 3 optima yt batteries at the moment to power my amplifier. These 3 batteries is in the trunk of my car and then i also have a stock battery under the hood and i can only fit one alternator. Now to the problem, how exactly do i make my alternator charge the batteries in the trunk without having my bad stock battery in the circuit, i heard that it is not a good idea to to have a bad battery connected to my batterybank. Please help me, it would mean alot. Sorry if my english is bad. Thanks in advance, Tobias
  11. Hello those knowlageable people from the interwebs, i have an opertunity to get a mid ninties QSC USA 1310. It has about 125-150 hours of usage.... What would be the lowest reasonable price, i obviously dont want to overspend. i was thinking of starting at 150 then going no higher then $200. It has been sitting around in the owners basement for quite some time (over 5years) but still works perfectly. Also does anyone else have or has used this amp? Would my named price be right? PDF of it : http://goo.gl/rYrvD
  12. Alright I've got my s10 as said its a 4 door and I'm wanting to put a system in it given that I've already bought 2 RockfordFosgate 12s and a 700 watt amp I'm still stumped on the best way to put a box in it. Given this is my first real build I need some guidance on what to do and not to do so far I'm thinking about doing a vented box If you know anything that could help me let me know I NEED HELP
  13. So ive decided with some help that I'm going to put a Sundown X-15 in my 2009 Lancer, However I'm having trouble pinning down the tuning and volume of the enclosure. I have heard that these subs like a low tuned box to really shine but I have never made a box to fit a driver this monstrous. I was wondering if I could get some help in the design process. My Trunks dimensions are 36 inches wide, 17 inches tall, and the floor of the trunk is 36 inches from back to front, however the roof of the trunk is 27 inches back to front. The amp used will be either a CT Sounds at1400.1 or a Soundqubed SQ1200D, If i could get an opinion on that as well i would appreciate it. Music i listen to is usually stuff from decaf, a little dubstep from time to time, and sometime a bit of metal but I'm mostly concerned about killing the low end. Thanks in advance!
  14. I have a 87 mustang there is 1 12in sub in the hutch floor, 1in tweeters in the dash, and 3in aluminum dome speakers in the back. I have 2 500watt Vibe amps and a JVC headunit. The problem is that when the engine is on there is noise coming from my speakers but if the engine is off and Im listening to the radio there is no noise. My power is running down my divers side and on the passenger side is the RCA and speaker cables. I also brought one of those group loop isolator for the RCA cables and its still making the noise.
  15. There is just so much information and I have no idea where it’s best to start, therefore ill start from the very beginning. I own a 2002 Volkswagen Passat with monsoon premium radio with cd changer wiring harness in the trunk. My first set-up included everything factory (head unit, door speakers, factory monsoon amplifier, battery) but no cd changer just a harness. I added a Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver and used the line out converter. I wired it in at the factory monsoon (FM) amplifier in the trunk and tapped in to the wires that go from the FM amplifier to the door speakers. I used the cd changer harness, since it turned on with my radio and had a ground source, to power and ground the RF-BLD. Then I used Monster 300 PowerFlex 4 gauge power and ground wiring for my Hifonics Brutus 1200 amplifier. Then I used Monster 402 XLN XTREME interconnects to get signal from the BLD to the Brutus. The Brutus powers a 10'' Cadance 4 ohm subwoofer in a band pass box, I’m not sure of the model or wattage. The BLD turns on with the radio and has a remote wire, wired, to the Brutus in which turns on with the BLD. This set-up worked amazingly. The sub sounded super clean and had no problem getting loud and hitting low, with the amp volume gain barely turned up and the BLD set on unbalanced and turned the whole way down. I went to go compete for the first time and broke the RCA connectors off the BLD while moving the box around in the trunk. So I de-soldered the RCA connectors from the input side of the BLD and re-soldered them to the output side. This was slightly faulty. Every so often the guts would move inside of the metal unit and short or something and the Brutus would cut out. But overall it worked well. But I wanted more to my door speakers and wanted an updated head unit. The problems all start from here. My new set-up consists(ed) with a Pioneer AVH-3500BHS DVD head unit, Axxess Interface Steering Wheel Control for the factory steering wheel controls, and a Scosche VW07SR / VW07 (select 2002- up VW CAN Bus stereo replacement interface with harness) and everything else remains the same. I wired all the wires from the radio harness to the vehicle harness with the exception of a blue and white wire, label vehicle year. I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be wired to the remote turn on or not. This may or may not be an issue. I also wired the ignition source to a wire that comes out of the back of my headlight switch. The head light switch is lit up when the key is turned on; therefore I figured it was a good source. Any input on this? I also did the parking brake by-pass by using a relay. It’s wired like in the picture.( http://ts1.mm.bing.n...021672&pid=15.1 ) However, I dont think it works correctly. I have to turn it on to DVD then turn the radio off and back on to DVD in order for it to work. I’m assuming it’s because it senses a signal then off the back on to trigger the on off on effect. Isn’t the relay supposed to do this so I don’t have to? Maybe I have a bad relay? I also wired in the steering wheel control module but yet to have programmed it. For the Scosche and Axxess modules I used the headlight switches' wire as accesory turn on. Should i be using a relay to do this with that type of set up? Lastly, the cd changer harness is not being used anymore, so I cut the wire from the harness that I used to supply power to the BLD and also connected it to the remote turn on. The Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver was still in the same place, connected to the turn on wire, grounded, has a separate turn on wire that goes to the amp to turn it on, and still has the speaker in for the line output converter. Upon turning on the head unit to test it out I get a whining sound (making note, the car is not started, but is also there when started.) The lighting on the amp is dimmer than it usually is, and there is zero sound coming from the amp to my sub. I figured maybe it’s the BLD because I messed it up. So I took the unit out of the housing and hooked it back up. The noise is still there. I unplugged the line in harness for the BLD and the noise goes away, along with hearing the relay click. Now I really think it’s the BLD. So to save some money, I buy a Monster 402 XLN XTREME 16 foot subwoofer interconnect. I put the cable it in its place and the sub made no sound at all. I turned the gain the whole way up and the amp equalizer the whole way up and started to hear something. I turned the gain up on the Pioneer the whole way up and now I hear it. It sounds so distorted and doesn’t beat hard at all. This is where I immediately became frustrated and got super stressed out. I can’t figure out why it would do this. I also can’t figure out why the BLD wasn’t working correctly. Should I spend the money on another RF- BLD and see if I can get it working again? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  16. I can't find this song,been searching for months,please help!
  17. I am upgrading to 2200 watts and I want to know which wire gauge I need for power and ground and for the speakers also what size fuse I need
  18. What all do I need to build a box? Is it worth buying? Or should I just resort to having a shop build me one.
  19. Well ive been designing a box for my 98 Honda Civic ex 2 Door coupe. Im hoping to start this weekend, I know how to build sealed but never tried ported could you look over this design and let me know if it would work without port noise or anything i may not know about. I know its small for 2 15's but that about all the space i can work with about 4.3-4.9 cubes Width can be from 34-36. Height can only be 16 or i have to remove my 6x9's and i dont wan't to. Depth can be from 16-22 These are the subs im going with-http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=269-522 did some research these are acutal work good in small boxes and for the price if they blow not a huge loss or if i don't like sell them and get some Sundown E-15's or SSA DCON
  20. I have a 1992 Crown Victoria that i need to build an enclosure for. The speaker is 1 fully loaded Fi Q 18 D2, this means cooling, pole chamfer, low QTS, spider, no I heat ring, and internal leads. I want to do this right the first time and there are no reputable box builders in my area and i cant for the life of me figure out winisd or any other port calculators. I've tried contacting online box builders for blueprints or just some help and they must be too cool for me as they refuse to contact me back Can someone please help me!!! My outer dimensions are as follows 22"T x 22"D x 38"W. I can squeeze a couple inches in any direction if absolutely necessary and I can definitely run port outside of box. Definitely double baffle, port forward and tuned to 28-34. I say 28-34 as it will be a daily driver application and im not sure which one is better as ive been steered both ways to the point it started a argument on another forum. Im not concerned about sq that much. I want as close to 150db's at the window as possible! It has to be at the very least 6 cubic feet with alot of port area from what im told. I want it as loud as possible!!! I have 2 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" mdf and fiberglass resin for inside. Also have 2 4' lengths of 2x2 wood for bracing but can acquire any other suggestable bracing materials. I do plan on doing 45's in the corners and rounding edges. My equipment is as follows. Sony 601bt HU, Knu 0 ga wiring, Knu RCA's, XS Power D3100, 200+ amp Mitsubishi police interceptor alt controlled by a bakatronics PWM device charging at 14.9, R.F. T2500-1BDCP Wired @ 4 Ohm for 1800 RMS, Soon a R.F. T1000-4ad, and a Fi Q 18 D2 ohm w/ a sexy carbon fiber dust cap! I cut out my back dash for open space to trunk and plan to run sub and port forward at the opening between cabin and trunk as i plan to seal the enclosure to the cabin. Ive mocked a cardboard enclosure with these dimensions and it will work but I have no idea how it will sound or if the depth is deep enough etc. If anyone has the knowledge and can help me with a diagram i would be willing to send cash via paypal. All thoughts, ideas, and suggestions are welcome! Also if anyone out there has any leads on a R.F. T1000-4 or 3sixty.3 let me know. The sub woofers specs are on here http://store.ficaraudio.com/q18... This is the enclosure recommendation at the bottom that was sent to me by Nick of Fi car audio. I could use it if absolutely necessary but wont work great and would require cutting and welding. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ To all that reply Thank you. This is my first REAL build and input is greatly appreciated! I will post pics when done!
  21. Here's my box design so far for a SoundQubed HDC3 18" http://imgur.com/a/UyRxa Box Specs: 20.75H x 35W x 21.5D. Displacements used are .23 (Sub) and .05 (Dowel rod). 5.95 Cubic Feet @ 30.26 (Cubic feet might be slightly higher due to window). This also takes into account 3 baffles and port outside of the box. Port Specs: 19" total length 7.920" Inside diameter .240" thickness, PVC 12" outside flare diameter 49.24 square inches port area. Still deciding on an amplifier, should be anywhere from 1750-2250W. 1/0 OFC Big Three. 150 amp stock alt. XS Power battery to come later. I still might go slightly larger on the box, every 1" wider gives it .20 cubic feet to net. I know people use 45s in slot ports to smooth out air flow but should they be used in aero port boxes? If so should I just use a 45 for the corner next to the port or all 4 corners? Thanks guys!
  22. I am going to build another box for my truck, currently my box is 3.62cubes @33.8hz. I'm pushing my dual sundown SA-12's D4's on a hifonics BRZ1700.1. I hit a 141db at around 37hz. This doesn't sound correct to me though. Because my box is ported to 33.8 hz it should be the loudest towards 34 hz or so, right? I don't really understand this, could somebody please help me? Do I need to build a new box? Do I need a different amp that pushes out cleaner sound on the lows or something? It sounds pretty good, but doesn't sound NEARLY as well on the lows as another box I have for my Fi BL 12"... But I didn't build the Fi box. Everytime I play a bass drop and I'm demo-ing my system, the lows don't kick in as hard as they should at all, and it bugs me... Box: 3.58 end volume 30.5x15x23 4.25x13.5 port 24.5 inches long Gross volume: 4.87 cu ft Port displacement: 0.92 cu ft Sub Displacement: 0.28 cu ft End Volume: 3.67 cu ft The Box was altered after this picture to make the port shorter. Here it is ported to 26hz, then i made it 33.8.
  23. would i be able to run an XS power D925 with my Super start extreme from oreillys? they dont have the same amp ratings but i beleive are both AGM batteries. i have all 0 gauge wire and a Mechman 170 amp alternator.
  24. Hello all- Ok, any help will be great! I just bought a 2008 Tahoe LTZ and I want to put my L7 15" in it. I just dont have the BRAIN to come up with a design or specs for it to be around 32-34htz. I have access to box building tools just need help designing and dementions. I plan on folding down one of my 3rd row seats that way I dont lose ALL of my room in the back (even tho i will never use :/ ) I want it to be not sealed because I want to BUMP Here are my MAX dementions that I would be willing to use: H: 22 in L: 22 in W: 38 in Thank you for any assistance
  25. Doing my first wall build with 4 american bass xfl 15 (dual 2ohm) on 5k in my 05 dodge magnum. I'm looking for some experienced advice. I'm not after spl numbers but more a low playing system (ground pounder style I guess) and just have a few questions... When building a wall do you 'design' it same as you would a standard box? Are port rules the same? Pros and cons of flat ported vs forth order wall? And is there any advantages or disadvantages to wall placement? Ie. Directly behind seats or pushed back a bit in the cabin? I've built many boxes (my friend designs for me) all have been very successful but never done a wall so just wanted to get some info before we get into it. Any input would be much appreciated and helpful
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