Texas Tech

no the power and ground never touched while touching the amp, the amp was disconnected and out of the trunk, how would i ahve power and ground wires touch if it was in the terminals, unless they were not secured tightly.

it was a hypothetical question, however i am going to put an amp in for my speakers sometime...whenever i amnot working or at school

what could i have done to it? i took the top cover off the amp and put it back on? but anyways.. the point of the matter is not about the owner, who can not speak very good english, the point was that i would not reccomend teh amp to anyone, even if it is one of the most underrated RF amps

i voided the warranty buy taking the cover off hte amp, i still sent it in free of charge.

would you buy something like this? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7236.html and which one is the "female" and which is the "male"?

i understand that, but i like explanations of how it happens, not that it just happens, no offense or anything im not trying to piss anyone off. I just like to know the details and how it happens. If the clipping power never exceeds the rated power of the subwoofer then how does it happen? It ruins it mechanically?

what if you have a headunit with only one output for RCA cables, and you wanted to hopok up two or even 3 amps in your car? and how would you wire all the remote wires (2 or 3 remote wires) to the wiring harness. Would you just put all the remote wires together and have them all hooked up to the same space on the wiring harness?

I bought a T3002 and ive had it for like 2 months or so. It worked great for the first 2 weeks. I lvoe RF and so far have only had their stuff in my car (except H/U of course its ahrd to get one). Well it started to randomly turn on and off. Now i know everyone is going to say...did you check this did you check that, yes i went through everything multiple times. So, i sent the amp in. When i got it back about a week ago the paper stated that all they did was replace the fuse. Well anyways, i ahve put it back in my car and it worked, for hte first 10 minutes. Then i experienced the same thing. The amp would turn on and off. I have talked with one guy who had the same problem with the same exact amp. He sent it back to RF 3 times so far. Anyways.... I know the amp is greatly underrated, thats why i bought the amp in the first place. Something funny though, after i had trouble with my amp i took it to the authorized dealer i bought it from and all... He told me it smelt like somethign was fried, burned, inside the amp. I told him no, there isnt, i have taken the amp cover off, because i thought maybe there was a short somewhere, and everything looked perfect. I told him to look at it himself and he refused. Nor did he give me any help on sending it to RF at all.This guy doesnt know anything though, and he can speak english, but not very well. I should say though, i did have the speaker terminal (thats what i call it, i dont know the correct term, but its the black plastic piece that connects the speaker wire from the inside of the box to the outside of hte box.) well that piece, the little metal prong for the negative i think, it burned. There was not a could connection between the quick disconnect connector (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i340_quick-disconnect-connectors.html) and the metal little prong piece that is part of the black plastic piece. But i did do all new wiring on the speaker wire and it still doesnt work. Question (random) but if your battery wire and ground wire touch does that mess up the wiring. I know it can affect your fuse and blow it, but will it do anything else. That has happened to me a couple of times.

sorry if you have already declared this but, what did you use to make those clean circles?... :watsup:

I have a question about WinISD...i know you can pick a subwoofer, and by doing so it will automatically put in the subs parameters and specifications. If the program does not have your sub, then you have to put in your subs specifications. Well what if you just wanted to use the program to build a box and find out how long to make your port which in return tells you what your port is tuned to. Since the tuning of the port is all decided on the ports length (not necessarily but for the most part), given a width and height of the port, does it really even matter what parameters are in for the sub. I mean, aren't you going to get the same port tuning for a slot port with the same dimensions. So, if all you are using the program for is to figure out how to build your box and build your port, do the specifications/parameters that you apply for your design really affect the port tuning?

aight cool, i looked around and found some kidns of wax you can apply (i guess before you apply the fiberglass)

i mean some kind of spray or something to make it easy for you to seperate your mold from the area that you made a mold from (but the area would eb taped off ofcourse because you would not want to apply fiberglass to your carpet or paneling in your car to make the mold.

never mind i found this...http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/forums/index.php?topic=245.0 it says... Wrong...Ive said it before...a woofer cannot die from clipping ALONE...it must reach its thermal limits before clipping takes its affect. Example. If a woofer can handle 500 watts thermally and your clipping a 250 watt amp, chances are the clipped signal will be sending double its rated power. It MAY damage the woofer...If your powering something with very little power, clipping alone will not kill it... so clipping can "damage" the subwoofer, but will not actually fry the subwoofers voicecoil making it not able to work?

i would say a CEA certified amp does. I have a question... a noob question i guess... but what i thought about clipping was that, yea the signal would get flatter at the top as you try to push the amp for more power that it is not capable of producing with a clean sin wave, but if your amp is clipping, and at clipping lets say it is giving your sub 300 watts, and your sub can take 500 Watts RMS, will it really destroy it? I know clipping can really overheat your amp, obviously because it is creating way more power of clipped signal than the amp can dissipate, but will it screw your sub up, because what i thought the only way a sub can be damaged was by having to much power (as a result of hte clipped sin wave) and hte sub not being able to dissipate the heat efficiently enough so, i guess like the guy said, the rubber or wahtever starts to get soft, and the voice coil burns.

when you make a mold and you want an easy release when your fiberglassing is all done and dry, what do you apply. For instance, if you are trying to make a mold in your trunk, and you lay down tape and then foil and some more tape (if you wanted to). well then you would start applying the fiberglass onto the taped off area. But when you are all done it is usually hard and long to get the mold to come out and off. What do you apply to the masking tape before you start to fiberglass to ensure that it will be easier when you are all done and going to take the mold out. I have heard WD-40... and also, applying this does not make it harder or make it different when you start to apply the resin and fiberglass?

my bad man wasnt thinking right... Acura Integra LS 99

where can i find those... See i have an astro 777 alarm and really no extra features. I am thinking of getting one of those alarms or spending another 200-400 bucks on alarm accessories and just add them on to my alarm. I would add, window breaking sensors, added pins, backup siren and battery, remote start, what else.... but i really want a viper, but thena fter i bought that i would have to pay to get it installed and pay for some add-ons too.

Which do you think is the best, i am going to buy from sonicelectronix really soon hopefully this next week after i get payed. I have 4 options i am looking at... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3468.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8286.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8297.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1590.html The first 3 are clifford and the last one is the viper

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8286.html it says Remote adjustable dual zone shock sensor does that mean you can adjust the sensitivity from your remote? Cuz thats exactly what i am looking for, What do you think about that alarm

i mean a little protective accessory for your little 2 way LCD remote, it depends on what car you have? For the little screen that you have on your keychain with your keys

I wanted to know if there are protective accessories you can buy for your alarm LCD screen so you can ensure that the screen will never get scratched or anything (kind of like those protective cases for ipods. The LCD screen i have is all scratched up and i am going to buy a new LCD screen if not a whole new alarm from Viper (theViper 791XV Responder 2-Way LCD & Remote Start Alarm ) I have a question with that alarm too. If you buy it online from sonicelectronix or anywhere, do you have to buy anything else or does it actually have everything you will need

can someone tell me which alarms are the newest for clifford and viper, security with remote start. I am looking to get one soon. And does anyone go to Car Toys to get their's installed. I know its car toys but their work is guarunteed and i would much rather have it 100% correct then go to a caraudio store and cheap you and not do it the right way.

hell yeaaaaaaaaa

thanks for the help, its amazing how all those different equations, some easer and some harder, can give you the same tuning frequency. Here is a link to illustrate what i was trying to create with words earlier (not the same EXACT scenario, but the same idea) http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...=&Vas=&Fs=&CE=0 The board that actually creates the port is 10.25 in. long, however the baffle (the red board) is "in front" of that teal board, so i figured you would add on .75 in.(because that is the width of the wood) to the teal. The port width is 1.75 in. wide (so half that) So i would do 10.25+.75+.875=11.875, but on the wedsite it says teh port length is actually 12 inches wrong. What did i do wrong to calculate the port length?

i have a question about measuring port length when it is a square port but there is no "elbow" or bend in the port. So basically there is only one board that creates the port assuming you used the side of the box to make the port. I will just throw some numbers out there they are of no significance so: lets say a box is 24 inches wide, 12 inches in height, and 14 inches in depth. Then you put a board (of wood) 4 inches away from the side (so the port is 4 inches wide, internally this is after displacement is calculated (not that it matters), and the board is 10 inches in depth. Would the port length be 10 inches, because thats how long the board is that actually creates teh port? would the port be 12 inches, 14 inches. The depth of the box is 14 inches and the length of the board that creates the port is 10 inches, so there is 4 inches between the two. i hope you can understand what i am saying, sorry i cant draw a picture, i am on a new computer and i didnt see a program. I have another question regarding port building, when you put your dimensions into WinISD for the ports width and height, is that the actual width and actual height, so it wouldnt include the wood or anything, tis the actual measurements of teh port (internally you could say) thanks for all the help guys and all teh formulas