VathanaKim

I am running a momphis mojo (rated for 1750 watts rms) on about 1k rms right now for about a month, and I haven't had a problem. Just make sure you set your gains correctly and check from time to time after you have been playing them at high volume to make sure the cone isn't too hot, if it is then your gains are probably not set correctly, or your electrical can't keep up and is causing clipping...

I wonder if this one is any good.... http://www.amazon.com/Seeedstudio-DSO-Nano-oscilloscope-V2/dp/B004DE31U0 It's cheap enough, you get what you pay for probably applies here I am afraid lol

Looks amazing I'm definitely gonna have to pick some of that up! If I were able to test it out for myself that would be awesome...

Might want to check out the rockford punch stage 3's. I'm a little biased cause I am a fan of rockford and not anything at best buy but if you go to a car audio shop they have buy one get one on them all the time. At least the ones around here do.

Looking for a good set, maybe in the 100-200 rms range. I need 4 total but I really need to replace my back ones at least for now, blew them yesterday (they were factory) I like rockford components, but let me know what you got!

Yeah I'm gonna be there! Hope I can meet a few good people so that I can learn as much as possible, I wanna know everything!

I'm in Springfield, so like 30 mins away from you probably

Thanks, I will definitely look them up

Bump noone in columbus/dayton area is loud?

Hi guys I am new to this whole car audio scene and I would like to get into competition in the near future. I am looking for people in my area that would like to give me demos of their systems and possibly give me a few pointers or anything that they could help me out with. I know there is a lot of knowledge around here and I would like to be a part of all of it So if you are in the Dayton/Columbus area let me know, I would love to hear some of these crazy builds I see on youtube lol :drinks: :drink40: :drinks:

x2 its clipped somewhere. make sure when you adjust everything you have everything at 0 or flat. you dont want no negative eq or anything on the head unit and you dont want anything turned up on the amp. you say you have the subwoofer setting on 15? im guessing thats max? turn it down to 0 and readjust your gains..your clipping like a mofo on that I have tried setting the gains with it on 0, and it still does the same thing, I am not new to car audio I have been doing this for years but I have never ran into a problem like this, all my eq settings are flat, no bass boost or anything turned on, crossover set at 75 hz, subsonic is on, etc... I'm really at a loss. I am running 4 ga. power/ground wire, 2 100 amp fuses (one by battery one by amp) Ground is fine I would say because it never cuts out or goes into protect. Its grounded to the chassis about 10 inches from the amp. I'm thinking it is probably the electrical in my car, its a 07 honda civic. when I turn it up all my lights are dimming even the illumination on the HU. Any chance you checked your voltages...grab a DMM and check the battery voltage with the car off, hopefully you see 12.# then crank the car up and make sure it reads between 13.5-14.4. I don't have a DMM lying around though do you know anywhere that would have one I could use? maybe like auto zone or something? Discount Auto Parts SHOULD have one, call them and ask. The absolute WORST thing you can do is charge a dead battery with your alternator. It can hurt your battery and your alternator. If your battery has been resting at 9v or something then it is severely hurting your amp and subs and rest of your car, which explains why your lights dim.. Ok thank you again for your help. I have been installing small systems for a long time but I know very little about batteries and voltages and all that. If its not the battery could it be the wiring on my stock electrical? As in big 3 upgrade, would that help with voltage drop? Big 3 helps current flow. With more current flow allowed, it can be better regulated. Thats pretty much as simple as I can say it for the Big 3. Imagine if you will, trying to stick a golf ball through a garden hose, the golf ball representing the excess current not built for stock electrical. then try rolling a marble through a garden hose, it would just naturally slide through, marble representing what stock electrical is meant to handle. When putting the extra load on it, those wires usually 4ga or 8ga are just too small to handle the extra load. Not to be rude, but you say you've been installing system for quite some time but dont know much about batteries and voltage.. hm well...your amp wants between 12-18v. most common being 14. if you run the system with the car off and not being charged, or if the system is sucking a lot more power than the car car charge at, its going to drain the battery power if the battery gets too low, it causes the system to mess up.. Anybody else care to chime in. My fingers are tired Well if you have to say "not to be rude" your being rude lol. I said I have installed small systems that have not required much power, so I never had to worry about battery voltage and whatnot, hence is the reason I came here asking for help. I have never did a big 3 upgrade or anything like that so I am new to that whole sort of thing. Don't worry man. I am a chill guy. Check your voltages though for sure. For sure, thanks again for your help. I want to eventually set this car up so I can hit in the 40's but I know I have a looooong way to go and a lot to learn so I appreciate people that will give me advice, do you think its possible to hit in the 40's with one 15 and 1000 watts? or more like mid-high 30's? It's a trunk car so I know its hard to get up that high.

x2 its clipped somewhere. make sure when you adjust everything you have everything at 0 or flat. you dont want no negative eq or anything on the head unit and you dont want anything turned up on the amp. you say you have the subwoofer setting on 15? im guessing thats max? turn it down to 0 and readjust your gains..your clipping like a mofo on that I have tried setting the gains with it on 0, and it still does the same thing, I am not new to car audio I have been doing this for years but I have never ran into a problem like this, all my eq settings are flat, no bass boost or anything turned on, crossover set at 75 hz, subsonic is on, etc... I'm really at a loss. I am running 4 ga. power/ground wire, 2 100 amp fuses (one by battery one by amp) Ground is fine I would say because it never cuts out or goes into protect. Its grounded to the chassis about 10 inches from the amp. I'm thinking it is probably the electrical in my car, its a 07 honda civic. when I turn it up all my lights are dimming even the illumination on the HU. Any chance you checked your voltages...grab a DMM and check the battery voltage with the car off, hopefully you see 12.# then crank the car up and make sure it reads between 13.5-14.4. I don't have a DMM lying around though do you know anywhere that would have one I could use? maybe like auto zone or something? Discount Auto Parts SHOULD have one, call them and ask. The absolute WORST thing you can do is charge a dead battery with your alternator. It can hurt your battery and your alternator. If your battery has been resting at 9v or something then it is severely hurting your amp and subs and rest of your car, which explains why your lights dim.. Ok thank you again for your help. I have been installing small systems for a long time but I know very little about batteries and voltages and all that. If its not the battery could it be the wiring on my stock electrical? As in big 3 upgrade, would that help with voltage drop? Big 3 helps current flow. With more current flow allowed, it can be better regulated. Thats pretty much as simple as I can say it for the Big 3. Imagine if you will, trying to stick a golf ball through a garden hose, the golf ball representing the excess current not built for stock electrical. then try rolling a marble through a garden hose, it would just naturally slide through, marble representing what stock electrical is meant to handle. When putting the extra load on it, those wires usually 4ga or 8ga are just too small to handle the extra load. Not to be rude, but you say you've been installing system for quite some time but dont know much about batteries and voltage.. hm well...your amp wants between 12-18v. most common being 14. if you run the system with the car off and not being charged, or if the system is sucking a lot more power than the car car charge at, its going to drain the battery power if the battery gets too low, it causes the system to mess up.. Anybody else care to chime in. My fingers are tired Well if you have to say "not to be rude" your being rude lol. I said I have installed small systems that have not required much power, so I never had to worry about battery voltage and whatnot, hence is the reason I came here asking for help. I have never did a big 3 upgrade or anything like that so I am new to that whole sort of thing.

x2 its clipped somewhere. make sure when you adjust everything you have everything at 0 or flat. you dont want no negative eq or anything on the head unit and you dont want anything turned up on the amp. you say you have the subwoofer setting on 15? im guessing thats max? turn it down to 0 and readjust your gains..your clipping like a mofo on that I have tried setting the gains with it on 0, and it still does the same thing, I am not new to car audio I have been doing this for years but I have never ran into a problem like this, all my eq settings are flat, no bass boost or anything turned on, crossover set at 75 hz, subsonic is on, etc... I'm really at a loss. I am running 4 ga. power/ground wire, 2 100 amp fuses (one by battery one by amp) Ground is fine I would say because it never cuts out or goes into protect. Its grounded to the chassis about 10 inches from the amp. I'm thinking it is probably the electrical in my car, its a 07 honda civic. when I turn it up all my lights are dimming even the illumination on the HU. Any chance you checked your voltages...grab a DMM and check the battery voltage with the car off, hopefully you see 12.# then crank the car up and make sure it reads between 13.5-14.4. I don't have a DMM lying around though do you know anywhere that would have one I could use? maybe like auto zone or something? Discount Auto Parts SHOULD have one, call them and ask. The absolute WORST thing you can do is charge a dead battery with your alternator. It can hurt your battery and your alternator. If your battery has been resting at 9v or something then it is severely hurting your amp and subs and rest of your car, which explains why your lights dim.. Ok thank you again for your help. I have been installing small systems for a long time but I know very little about batteries and voltages and all that. If its not the battery could it be the wiring on my stock electrical? As in big 3 upgrade, would that help with voltage drop?

x2 its clipped somewhere. make sure when you adjust everything you have everything at 0 or flat. you dont want no negative eq or anything on the head unit and you dont want anything turned up on the amp. you say you have the subwoofer setting on 15? im guessing thats max? turn it down to 0 and readjust your gains..your clipping like a mofo on that I have tried setting the gains with it on 0, and it still does the same thing, I am not new to car audio I have been doing this for years but I have never ran into a problem like this, all my eq settings are flat, no bass boost or anything turned on, crossover set at 75 hz, subsonic is on, etc... I'm really at a loss. I am running 4 ga. power/ground wire, 2 100 amp fuses (one by battery one by amp) Ground is fine I would say because it never cuts out or goes into protect. Its grounded to the chassis about 10 inches from the amp. I'm thinking it is probably the electrical in my car, its a 07 honda civic. when I turn it up all my lights are dimming even the illumination on the HU. Any chance you checked your voltages...grab a DMM and check the battery voltage with the car off, hopefully you see 12.# then crank the car up and make sure it reads between 13.5-14.4. I don't have a DMM lying around though do you know anywhere that would have one I could use? maybe like auto zone or something?

I am definitely going to when I get the money, it seems like a very well made product. It doesn't heat up instantly just after a song or two, but it is definitely way hotter than it should be.