brent379

Does mechman have an actual site u can order from or do u gotta use ssa?? And I got an 05 2500hd 6.0 with no power door locks...windows...or mirrors.

Lol my bad I meant MIDS.... Where's the best place to shop for h/o alts and wat size xs battery??

Ok so I kno I need to upgrade my electrical....im gonna be pushing 1500 rms for my sub amp and maybe 200 ish from the amp for my kids and highs... Gonna be doing the big three and trying to figure out if I should upgrade my alternator or run an xs power battery for a second battery....can anyone help me out on which way is the better way to go??

Well I wanna do a blow thru so I cam have my back seat bk without sacrificing loudness

Well im going to be doing a blow thru...and I have an mtx ta81001 that pushes 1500 rms at 1 ohm...im trying to stay away from buying another amp IF possible. That's why im asking...just trying to figure out the best way to go

Ok for instance... 2 sundown sa 15s....rated at 600rms...compared to the sa z v.3 15 rated at 1500 rms... Both in recommended boxes and only being pushed the rms they are rated... I kno the sa's can handle wayyyy more then that but just throwing that out there.

Ok what would be the difference between running 2 subs at 600 rms or one sub at 1200 rms... If you were using the same brand of subs... Would the one getting 1200 rms have more output??

Bass boost plus sub level at plus 15 equals problems. Turn the sub level down...bass boost OFF..and turn the gain on ur amp up. To push those sibs the gain should be AT least half way up. And make sure they are wired correctly.

That's ridiculous lol. Im gonna mess around this weekend and build a 4th order for a kicker comp 12 and it calls for 1.5 to 3 cubes sealed....for one!

Damn 2.25 sealed is all u need for 2 13w7s??? That's crazy...it should sound pretty good tho

No problem man. Alot of times deep bass has alot to do with the fs rating of the sub...the lower that rating the better and deeper it will play the lows...i believe...and with the low rating of ur sub it should do pretty good. Just make sure that u take all displacements and adjust the box so that you have true net volume ratings of your box...makes a big difference.

I hope u have alot of room cuz bandpass boxes get very big very fast... Ok from what I understand how 4th orders work is you have one sealed chamber and one ported chamber...choosing the chamber sizes isn't hard but u need to figure out what ratio you want.... The sealed chamber is just what is recommended for your sub...if your sub recommends 2 cubes sealed and your running two subs then u need a 4cube sealed chamber... (im sure those numbers are irrelevant to you but im just using them as an example) The way ratios work are 1:1 2:1 3:1 4:1... You can throw in half also... 1.5:1 2.5:1 and so on...idk what the biggest ratio you can go tho... Also the bigger your ratio is the peakier your box will be... The lower the ratio the flatter response you will get.. With a flatter response I think you get a wider frequency range which means it will be more musical ... Once you decide your ratio that's where you get your ported side from. The ratio means that for every 1 cubic foot sealed....you need that much or more ported... For instance say you want a 2:1 ratio...and your sealed side needs to be 1.5cuft...your prted side would need to be 3cuft... As far as tuning goes im not sure wat tuning lower would do...the sealed side of the box controls the low frequencies and ported side is for your higher frequencies... So if you want it to hit lower make the sealed side a little bigger...since bigger sealed boxes hit lower...and smaller sealed boxes won't hit as low but will make your bass tighter.

No what it means is square inches PER cubic foot... Port volume is only needed in figuring out the displacement of your port inside the box. Say your building a 3 cubic foot box and you want 16 square inches of port area per cubic foot... You would need a total of 48 square inches of port area....16x3=48... Port area is only the width of your port times the height of your port.

I think Torres calculator range is 11-16sqin per cuft...17sqin per cuft seems to work really good tho! But it also depends on how much roomyour working with. Depending on the application you may only be able to get 11-13sqin per cuft if your working in a tight spot.

Oooo ok didn't know that... Makes sense now. how do the aq hdc3 18s compare to the havoc 18s?? Not trying to make a vs thread but I just dont understand all the qts and vas and all that number shit when researching subs so I need it in blk and white lol

Why are u tuning ur box so high?? Put it at 32-33 hz

I just get confused on how to properly balance mids and highs cuz ur dealing with alot more speakers lol this is the way I've always done my mids and highs and never really had any problems I just dont remember the amp getting this hot. It never cuts out or dulls out its just hot. Hopefully one day I'll have a aq 120.4 and 6.5 components in the bk instead of 4x6s to match the 6.5s up front and run each component off one channel and I should be good just that amp is 300$ lol

Ya im just gonna stick with 1ohm...i need something that will push at least 12-1400rms and getting that at 2ohm with out spending a ton of money looks impossible lol. Cresendo bc2k will do the job

Idk on the ohm load for the mids and highs....both fronts are ran off one channel and both rears are ran off the 2nd channel

Ok so is it better to buy one amp that will push the power u want at 2ohm or is it better to strap 2 amps??

Lol it makes sense tho. So do u run urs at .5 ohm just for more power or does running ur ohm load that low give u a deeper fuller sound??

Ok I kno alot of people including myself wire the subs at 1 ohm for less resistance which equals more power...is it a good thing to always run at 1 ohm or is it better to run the same amount of power at 2 ohms...does 2 ohms give u a cleaner sound? This maybe a noob question but I wanna know the pros/cons of running at 1 ohm rather then 2 ohm...

So the amp I have running my kids and highs....kemwood kac7202...its only turned half way up and its getting really hot within 15 to 20 minutes...anyone have an idea of why that is when it's only turned half way up?? I kno amps get pretty warm sometimes but it shouldn't get this hot

So then knukonceptz is the way to go??

I can afford the 220$...but I just want to make sure it's worth spending lol. And ya I was looking at the stinger hpm from darvex... What member discount are you talking about??? And what's the difference between stinger and knukonceptz wiring?? With stinger are you just paying for the name?