-
Posts
24557 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
224
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Kyblack76
-
-
This case blows for air flow, ... add in temps being 3 digits for 6 weeks straight here, and, why not get a pump, cpu and gpu block,.. chuck a rad or 2 in there, and shove some water through things.
Heat killer cpu block, EK gpu block, 360mm rad, 280mm rad, BEquiet silent wing pro fans, aquasuite quadro controller/software ( i dig this thing) , EK d5 pump,res, fittings,tubing. Just a simple gaming rig, nothing serious.
HyteY60 case/7800x3d/7900xtx/DDR5-6400 CL30/Asus Strix x670e-e/Seasonic 1000 prime titanium
Samsung g7 32" 240hz/Samsung g7 27" 240hz/ROG Azoth keys
First go with a loop,... and, I think ill add a loop to my other rig. I have a flow sensor, and some other ish, ready to go in, when I get bored enough to stick it all in. Runs like a top.
- 1
-
Didnt know you had a fuse up front, thought this was it. Then run the fused front line to the fuse holder you have, on the common side (the bridged side) Run it as close as you can to the
hot of the rear battery. One single side to the battery, and one to the amp, and your done. If your into fusing every and all, then remember your fusing the wire. If you get it as close to the hot/positive as possible, youll be fine. Make sense? Both batts will be covered front to rear. The spit blocks will cover the rear battery, and wire forward, and the amplifier wire out. You can also use 2 different fuse ratings for the main line, and the amplifier line, as well as using both battery amps, and your alt amps from the front. Think of it as just fusing for the wired used.
EDIT- do this.. draw it out on a piece of paper, and send a pic. It helps.
-
The run front to rear, should be fused as close to the front bat as possible. The run goes back back to the rear battery, and fuse that, as close to the positive post as possible. Then, Come off that battery, ( with the hot) with a fuse as close to the bat as you can get it to the amp. You bought the wrong set up, for what you want to do.
Edit- even if you did find and get just two singles, youd be not protected. If you are wicked into that "fuse everything" thing.......
-
-
And, some more salt in your wounds.... That mic you used in 1991, was most likely off by a db or 3. Welcome to the new world.
-
On 5/26/2023 at 6:15 PM, LSN2meBoom916 said:
Finally got around to restoring my access to this site. Been a while. Saw a "where did he go" post or 2 while lurking on the outside, gave me all the feelz lol. And yes, getting older does suck.
Yes,.. yes it does.
-
On 4/27/2023 at 3:55 PM, Wifebtr said:
Just to add a perspective, I have a 3k amplifier that has a 60amp fuse. I'm wired to 1ohm on 2 12s. It's been about 2 years of me jamming to music and the fuse hasn't popped.
I think people often overestimate how much current amplifiers draw on music.
Yep.... you can usually HALF the max draw, and still be under, on music.
-
On 4/16/2023 at 8:25 AM, SnowDrifter said:
Good lord
Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x.
Hot damn dudeCheck your dms my brutha......
- 1
-
On 4/16/2023 at 8:25 AM, SnowDrifter said:
Good lord
Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x.
Hot damn dudeThat is still a killer cpu bruh, but these stacked vcache cpu's, FOR GAMING (not dick for production,... which i do zero of) are the shit. Toss a 5800x3d in there, again, if all you do is game, look at your bank account here and there, and pRon. If you need the production,.... hang with that beast you have, or buy another mother board, and ill sale/give you this 7950x cheap bro. No bullshit.
-
-
-
Awesome boss. I just got back into the PC world myself, after having one in 2003 LOL. Nice gear. I was also lucky to be the first in my county to get Fiber available. Just a 1000/1000 up and down here. The next bump was just a bit much for my needs (Hell my board only does 2.5g). And its been the BEST internet I've ever had. I've had business lines from comcast and the like, that was 5 times more, and 10 times shittier than this Utopia fiber. Also, it has NEVER ever went out. Ever. They had a posted outage maybe a year ago, but it didnt even affect me (the time of night they did their maintenance. Ive also LOVED getting back into the pc world. All i do is game, look at my bills/bank shit and porn. But, its vasty different than what I've known. Shit works. Works great now, vs my experience 2 decades ago.
Rig
HYTE Y60 case/ROG Strix E670E-e mobo/7950x/7900xtx/Seasonic Titanium 1000w/GSkill CL30 DDR5-6000 with buildzoids timings/2tb WD ssd/2tb samson980 pro ssd/cheap ass 2tb hard drive/Artic 360/ Lian Lan fans that both need to get in. Been lazy. Samsung g7 27" and 32" 240hz. ROG (im a huge ROG nut hugger) Azoth keyboard, SteelSeries Artic pro's (wired), a few SCUF controllers cuz i just run into walls on the keys. And its been a riot.
Happy gaming homie. Ill look for you on Twitch. I think i was your very first subscriber lol. Cheers mate.
- 1
-
7 hours ago, Xtreamdreamx said:
I am going to run four skar vfx 12s on two strapped skv2 3500.1d amplifiers, since strapping effects ohm load, what subs do I need, d2 or d4 ?
I wouldnt strap them, and just get the drivers you need to match the load your looking for.
-
Strapping doesn't magically effect anything..... You weirdO's that like to say "strapped" are fucking weird. You got 2 buckets. One carries 10 gallons, or 2 that carry 5.
That is it... period. Strapping is a headache, and shitty. Go one to one. Enjoy.
-
Awesome looking, and well thought out. Also, i love mini's. Swapped to them a bit ago, when more and better types of holders started coming out over the large anl's. These look fantastic. Very well thought out. Good shit hoss.
-
^^^^^
I hate 8's. Even if they can any power thermally, they will shit the bed suspension wise. Period. I dont even like 10s for the same reason. You wont be able to put much if any power to them, (not for any duration) even if you "are very happy with them. You dont even need to up grade your oem alt, let alone need duals. Take that money and put it else where.
-
Good shit. Get it in.
-
10 hours ago, 02Blazer said:
need a E400.4 ?? got a new in the box one , never used , hit me up , getting rid of it cheap
That’s one of the two (the other the 1500.1) I’m running. Killer 4 Chan.
- 1
-
I am loving the 2 Damore boards I’m running. Love em.
- 1
-
13 hours ago, HarryF said:
Thank you tho. I had the same question.
well hell, welcome to 2022.
-
Ive never heard of or seen the boards/amplifiers. If the above statement that old OG Zed had something to do with them, they may be a ok board. Anyone that look/found the amplifier info, know if they are class A/B ? Are you able to remove the top plate easily, so we can see the internals? (If they are a pain in the taint, dont even try/worry bout it)
The Xover, just looks to be that. Just a tool for adjusting pass bands to channels, but not tweaking any frequencies, as far as i can tell. Pretty crazy that todays sources/HU's can do all of that, and more, making those go bye bye.
Now, to why i even posted in the first place. And, bare with me.
MTX, specifically the first gen Blue Thunders, and the Terminator series, were, to me, the VERY very first "high zoot" driver i ever ever purchased and beat on. This was around 1990-1994. I had a very very large 80x4 clarion amplifier, and set up some 6-1/2" kenwoods in custom door panels (piece of wood, wrapped in blue cheap vinyl, where the little cubbie hole was on the panel) that actually looked ok, and sounded ok, all in a lowered, 1982 s10 extended cable with the v6. Loved that truck. The mtx drivers where in a 6 cube sealed box, me and my step dad built together. Great times. I went through alternators ever 2 or 3 months not having a real concept of power needs at all. The thing, for the time, pounded. Im confident as fuck, that every single person in the small town i grew up in, that loves audio, car audio especially was my doing lol. I miss that truck/vehicle, (i worked my ass off for that thing, while trying to get through high scool) anda also miss the times/fun i had in that thing. Shit ton of young, youth growing/doing went on in that rig.
-
https://damore-engineering.myshopify.com/pages/about-us
Fill this out. They'll get back to you.
Edit- they have JUST moved locations. But, sure, they should get in touch with you regardless.
- 1
-
Ill bet the oem source level is to low. But, sure, you could set the source up at 7/8s of max, same on the lc7, then, run the dd1 with the amp, and adjust accordingly. Hopfully you dont have a cock ton of floor noise.
-
First things first,.. do you see SIGNAL ?????? Lets not worry about the distortion light yet. Do you see the 1k or 40hz signal on the dd1 first ?
- 1
Subs smell
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted · Edited by Kyblack76
Which overlap did you use? ????? 0db, -3.5, -5, -10,-20 ???? And you checked if your clean at the HU, and then at the amplifiers? Through and through?
If the smell is sweet ,. it could be the glue on the coil,....
or, your baking your coils........ guess well see in time. And, Joe is correct, those boards are pretty dirty to begin with. Can you show a picture of the scope while running the tone (and at what overlap)
Edit- and i dont know why dropping to 12.4 would cause any sort of clipping,.. if set up right. Hell id set the dd1, at -7.5db over lap, with the car off.
But thats just me.