Kyblack76

Ya wanna "strap" 2 half bridge boards......... Read that again, please. If your dead set, on wanting to strap, 2 half bridge boards,........ Then watch, and enjoy. Let us know how it goes. Cheers. Edit- ive had, and been running a 1500.1 from Tony since the day they launched. Ive adored the board. (2 15" crossfire c5's) Fantastic board, zero issues.

Why is "strapping" so needed? Gain match and be done.

There is a reason no one makes a multi alt bracket for a honda mate. 2.4 or 3.5, dont matter. Get a nice, NOT max alt, but something like a working 270 HAIRPIN style,... or , specify to the maker, you'd like a lower turn on if possible, (rpms) and add reserve. Done.

Well, lets math. 12v X 220amp = 2640watts (dont care about 14v, you wont hold that either) That said, youll probably see half the power on music. So ya, let it eat. (id have a second battery, but, do you) And, youll most likely never see a full 220amp from your alt, especially at idle, normal driving. But, you wont be making 3k all day long either. Hook it up and bang dude. Cheers.

If it sounds good, why care.

Ditch the iosolater

The 1988 "run power wires away from signal wires" is basically dead now. You need to figure out what the noise is. If it changes with rpm, then that is alternator "whine". To me, its one of your 47 things inline ( 2 amps and a dsp and epicenter) and one of those introducing "noise". If you pull the rca's from the deck (source) then its most likely the amplifier.

Audio Control

Just here to say to say, those JL slash amps are cool. Especially if it has the RIPS feature. (the constant power stuff like rockford) You are over thinking 300 watts, and thinking the number on the box matters. Your electrical will be more important than the board in this case.

If you are using the HU, and basically zero control (TA, power, cut off/xover, freq adjustments) then just buy what you want and stick em where you have space. If it was me, id try and get tweets higher, power them, cut them off proper and band tweak them. That said, if you can fit something larger in that space, like a 5-1/4 with a tweet or something, then id do that. Other wise, just buy something and put it in. Cheers.

Meh, i built another water rig. Msi meg Ace 7800x3d Asrock Aqua with vbios (5XX watts) 2 samsung 990 pros EVGA T3 1600 2 420 rads for gpu 1 420 artic freezer III gskill cl 36/6400

Not sure, but replying to a 12 year old thread, most likely wont help

Do you rev the motor up (rpm's) when you burp? or just idle. Also, your gear is 12v. So staying even above that, when hammering on that is beyond fine. Cheers. Rev your motor/spin your alt, if you want your alt to turn on.

The om-1 takes input,.. doesnt do anything output wise. AKA- it can not affect the board, or anything for that matter, it just receives.

You dont have 5000 watts on anything. FYI

No low level inputs,... sounds like aids.

Not sure what you are needing, or asking for. Are you looking for a LOC (line out put converter) or like your title says and a board for your drivers? Love Fi drivers by the way,.. i dick ride them hard.

Is the enclosure you are talking about, in your bio pic? If so, im having a real hard time, seeing that tuned anywhere near 30. Post DIMs of enclosure just for fun.

I would set clipping with knob at full. But do you. You could tweak your pass band, so your subs arent playing a "dynamic kick" but the low sub drum like they should, and your door/mids handle the upper "kick". So, lower your low pass. Or you could retune with -7.5, or -5 ...... aka turn it down, EQ that out, if you have the ability (dsp and what not). Turning it down, is no fun, so you could not worry about a slight clip here and there, and let it eat. And if it sounds good to you, roll with it. Im sure it will be fine. Or it could unwind a coil. But im think youd be fine. On long long plays, if you smell something, youll know. Up to you. Box (if it is in fact) tuned at 30, ......... turn that low pass down mate. Or, i would. (low pass is at 60 here, i like my subs to play low frequencys, not try and make up for lacking mids) but, do you. Then you wont see it clip, but will lose some band/frequency you need to pick up with other drivers. Its all up to you.

Also,. google impedance (not box/enclosure) rise. Google, read, and take some of that in. I dont know if your going strickly for numbers in the lane, at one frequency, or if your want a daily ground pounder (sound like you want a ground pounder system) but, just looking at "this amplifier does this number at this load" is pretty useless in a daily driven audio rig. That said, it will help explain why your not seeing even remotely close to the power you think you are, or should be. Not to mention, that board/maker, most likely embellished the numbers. I do wish you the best of luck. Hell, just coming in and asking questions, and wanting to know and learn, ... you are already well ahead of most, and the curve. Cheers and best of luck. edit- also, remember, if your are looking for "large-ish" numbers. It takes power, to make power. No board on the planet can "make" power on its own. Also,.. please. Please be very very carful, of who you are taking info in from please. There is a TON of nonsense, and welp, straight bullshit out there. Do your own reading and learning mate. Sure take others info in, but be very very carful on what is out there.

Just a quick bump. In case anyone's missing the vids Tony D is dropping lately. There is more than just this one. But i really like how he went in the weeds on this one. Cheers all. (edit- also, im running the 400.4 and 1500.1 in my rig, have been for a long while now. Love these boards, and im not nice to them at all)

Cool. None of my enclosures even have screws. Never had a "leak" or anything break apart. Odd. 80 amp, and not blowing the fuse. You are no where near, peak power. Not even half. Sooooo, your good. No breaking shit,.. from power anyway. Edit- maybe just a really poorly built enclosure. I've never, in my decades of audio, had the privilege of seeing anyone "blow" their box apart,, unless it was a pile of wood just hucked together, or a prefab. Even then, it wasnt from "power". But good luck to your goal mate.

Whats the rating of the fuse, you are saying you arent blowning??? " So far no fuses are blowing or anything. " And, you arent gonna "blow" any box apart. Ever. Whoever your talking to, or reading from on "youtube". Dont pay any attention to them. Blow a box apart, jesus christ.

Jesus my guy. Come play some warzone with me. Edit- my next buy is a 240 (plus) Hz oled. Maybe the Rog rig. Not sure. May wait a tick. Monitors are just getting sooooo good. But, i want a rad oled thats wicked fast. Just 2 g7 240hz (27 and 32 inch) here. I want a nice oled.