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Everything posted by Kyblack76

  1. You could use one on every channel if you want mate.
  2. Is the protect light on ? Start here. Turn the key off, un-power the amplifer. Remove the load (un-plug the speaker wires) and turn the key back on/power up the amp. While your there, and if you have a meter, check all pos, and neg/ground connections. If the fan comes on and power light is lit, seems those are fine, but...... Do the mentioned and report back.
  3. Got some questions mate. "Pushing 3 custom 12”s 4” dual 1ohm. Wanting to run the Taramps MD12000.1 @.5" - Wut? Youll be closer to .7, more most likely. "The MD takes 1200 amps" - Are you burping ONLY? Then, no, it doesnt, you should know, if your running one. Music, even heavy demos, usually pull around half of MAX draw/capable. " For juice there’s a 350 amp alt on there" - I got to know, who makes a 350amp alt, for a nissan/infinity. "already got 10 gallons of resin into the box" - Bummer,.. that was a waste. "Kolossus Flex 4/0 for pos and neg from front to rear says it does 600 amps. Little overkill there" - I thought one of your amps pulls 1200? "Ported, interchangeable ports thru the top parcel shelf. " - Can i see that? Id think to be able to swap, they would all be hella short, to even get by the rear window, and in the enclosure. So are you tuned to 8hz or something? Serious question. "Using all SHCA connections and shrink wrap" -I only see 3 SHCA shrink wrap, zero of Jon's connections, and i thought it was Kolossus 4/0 ? "Doors housing 14 6.5” dc audio pro mids & 8 skar audio 300 watt bullet teeets." - Please post a picture of this, i have GOT to see this. Awesome. " Box measures 10 cubic feet" Biggest trunk for a Nissan/infinity is around 12, for the sedan, and about half that for the coupe. But ive only worked on a couple Nissans. This is a bit over 6 cubes (with vent) in a trunk with 14cf. (2 12's, ampere audio 9k tfe) 3 D7500s, 1 D3100, singer 240 hairpin alt, just fyi Also, when using a fuse block, the one,...please use BOTH ends of the block please, hell, a fuse even. Would you like to try again, with actually what the hell you got going on, right now, and not a pipe dream, skip the bullshit, and ask questions that are in fact in your wheel house? We would love to help. And can. You (even in dream land) are NO where CLOSE to needing your 1500 amp (the 1200, and 300 you mentioned, even though those gemini's say 60 amps total for for 1400 watts, which is,..... silly). Wanna try again? Cheers. KB
  4. Oh Bay,.. you Deaf Bounce nut hugger you. Bumping a old as fuck thread, just to toss their name in lol. Just playin boss. And the other dude, post a link of gear, WELL over the dims the OP in July asked for lol. Ahhhh kids these days. Man, you guys love your pro audio ear bleeding highs dont ya lol. Hey,... THEY ARE FUCKING LOUD,..... is cool i guess lol. Good hell. EDIT- there isn't a damn thing, i can/would recommend at 30 bones a piece, so, sorry. Just here to plug my ear holes.
  5. Most of the time, rear fire is louder in trunk builds, unless you completely, and I mean completely seal it off. Which rarely happens correctly. Running C5’s myself. 15s here. In a 7 cube enclosure. (Gately) on a damore 1500 at .5. I think the 12s ask for 1.75 per. So 3 cubes after everything. You may wanna double check your vent/vent area. Look at the cross fire web site, and not down for sound or whatever. I’d tune it a bit lower also, but that’s me, and what I did. Not sure what’s up with hours, but mine pound. Never get hot, have great mechanical control, dig deep, and sound great. Greatly impressed with such a cheap driver. Glad I got them on a few friends recommendations that are on team Xfire.
  6. That’s one of the two (the other the 1500.1) I’m running. Killer 4 Chan.
  7. I am loving the 2 Damore boards I’m running. Love em.
  8. The next unit i run, will be a HELIX model. The Conductor, and the Director remotes are super slick/cleaver. I will have a ultra, or pro, or some helix unit,.... soon. Good shit mate.
  9. Yes sir. My current build has a DA 408 in it, and dude, lol, the lil thing has been flawless for me. Ive seen many bitch about it. But for me, its been fucking great. I will be getting a HELIX model very soon. But, this cheap thing has done great for me. Zero complaints. Best of luck mate.
  10. Simply get a meter and check if you have constant 12vdc on red, and key'd on 12vdc on yellow, and use continuity on the ground. The blue or remote out, is whatever. I dont know if your using it or not, but it, shouldnt make the unit work or not. Easy peasy. Id really look at your ground also. Check your constant, and keyed voltages, and report back
  11. I loved the old BL's, and the UFO's. I remember Scott having a option for a 4" coil for the OG BL. That is pretty rad you found one in the wild, and REAL rad, you are putting it to use. Makes me wonder if a SP4 recone kit would fit in it. May be to tall, but, it may work great. If anything, call Fi, talk to Atwell (Scott) or someone over there, and at least tell them what you have, and what could be done with it these days. And when you do, write everything down, and come back here, and post what was talked about. Id love to hear that. Best of luck. What a fun find.
  12. They say "dont do that", because they dont want returns. That said, im doing the same thing on a 2018 4runner with oem alt. Been great for 4 years.
  13. So you want to charge a volt over the capability of the cell ? Sounds like a fun time.
  14. I love control. I want, and will always have it. I love again, control, so, for me, yes, i will run a DSP in every build i ever have. Unlike yester-year, they are now, wicked cheap, wicked available, and best of all, they WORK. The times of paying 1100 bones for some control, is over. At the moment, im running the 408. It has bluetooth control/connection, and, for me, its been fucking great. History - I had the RF 360.1, .2, .3. Four units from Audison, a Ampere Audio unit, maybe half a dozen Audio Control, and many others. For me, i want control. From pass bands, cuts, slopes, time alingment, EQ, saving and loading different presets, on and on and on. And again, this day and age, the things fucking connect, (back in the day, just gettting to connect to your unit, could pose a billion issues, let alone saving a preset, adjustments, and such) and they just flat out work. For me i wont run a system with out one. Ever. But, maybe for me, now its super easy, and i could see getting into one, a bit of a challenge. Again, you are in control. You fuck up once, and your tweeters are smoked. You put the wrong high pass on the tweets, welp, it will do what you say, and you can EASILY burn shit up. But, for me,..... ill never ever not have one. Cheers KB
  15. Yerp. Do all said above. The amp ill bet is just fine. Ill bet the amp is shutting down from low or high voltage. If you have a decent meter, stick the probes in at the amp (Pos and Neg) and set to min/max, .... go for a ride, or do whatever you need to cause the issue. Ill bet you see the amp shutting down being out the boards wanted voltage. Either spiking high, or, dropping to low. Then, know which and why, move to the next. (you dont mention any vehicle issues, dimming, battery lights or anything, and happens at RPM, makes me think your spiking for some reason, just over the boards wanted VDC range )
  16. If your looking for strictly a burp set up, (I use to love to compete, but never in a burp discipline, i preferred musical disciplines, but that's me, you do you) you will want to play with the vent a ton, and find where the vehicle will help you the most (Resonant freq). Our suburban liked to peak around 44hz, but, that is our old set up, yours will be different. As joe said above, either get a lot more wood, or, get a vent you can play with quickly, then test, change, test, repeat that for the next 30 years. I will say, i haven't really seen many tahoes, competing in the burp lanes. Usually crx's, 3 door hatches, and the like where highly used/desirable for burp/single tone monsters. Again, from what i saw in the lanes. So you will most likely be at a disadvange there already. But, get after it. Id get a term lab, or something you can accurately measure your changes. If you don't know, you don't know. And you'll need to know exactly what went on, after each test, and know what changes affected what. I don't know those drivers at all. But a very very stiff suspension, low mass driver with a higher FS is what I've seen used for playing tones. Exactly the opposite of what i want from a driver, in my set up, but again, i prefer musical stuff. Good luck, and have fun. (I really really got off on testing, learning, trying, failing, and winning, and changing stuff, and seeing it reflect what we did,.... i really got off on that, and was my favorite part of competing, besides hanging out, partying with everyone at the show)
  17. With many OEM's now having a source so integrated with the rest of the vehicle, and, or a source/head unit that is actually decent, many are now offering a amplifer with built in dsp, and even some bass restoration. (Many OEM sources will cut the freq's we all want, like the low low end, or even cut down the volume of certain freq's when you turn the volume up. Its usually done to protect the butthole drivers they use in the audio system). In later model vehicles/newer vehicles, the damn head unit/source can be so damn part of the entire car, running the ac/heat, cruise control, the security system, all sorts of shit) its forcing the audio companies to come out with products that will blend easily with oem stuff. All mentioned above are great. Im a huge fan of the Helix/Audiotec Fischer boards/dsp. Big fan. Although pricey, and hard to find. But many are now doing the same. (as mentioned above with Kicker)
  18. My FB feed is full of my buddys headin to Surf City as of late. That is one large show, ive never had the privilege of getting to, but looks like a freaking ball.
  19. I would make sure, both, are the same coil. Make damn sure. Meter both separately., unhooked.
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