Kyblack76

You dont have 5000 watts on anything. FYI

No low level inputs,... sounds like aids.

Not sure what you are needing, or asking for. Are you looking for a LOC (line out put converter) or like your title says and a board for your drivers? Love Fi drivers by the way,.. i dick ride them hard.

Is the enclosure you are talking about, in your bio pic? If so, im having a real hard time, seeing that tuned anywhere near 30. Post DIMs of enclosure just for fun.

I would set clipping with knob at full. But do you. You could tweak your pass band, so your subs arent playing a "dynamic kick" but the low sub drum like they should, and your door/mids handle the upper "kick". So, lower your low pass. Or you could retune with -7.5, or -5 ...... aka turn it down, EQ that out, if you have the ability (dsp and what not). Turning it down, is no fun, so you could not worry about a slight clip here and there, and let it eat. And if it sounds good to you, roll with it. Im sure it will be fine. Or it could unwind a coil. But im think youd be fine. On long long plays, if you smell something, youll know. Up to you. Box (if it is in fact) tuned at 30, ......... turn that low pass down mate. Or, i would. (low pass is at 60 here, i like my subs to play low frequencys, not try and make up for lacking mids) but, do you. Then you wont see it clip, but will lose some band/frequency you need to pick up with other drivers. Its all up to you.

Also,. google impedance (not box/enclosure) rise. Google, read, and take some of that in. I dont know if your going strickly for numbers in the lane, at one frequency, or if your want a daily ground pounder (sound like you want a ground pounder system) but, just looking at "this amplifier does this number at this load" is pretty useless in a daily driven audio rig. That said, it will help explain why your not seeing even remotely close to the power you think you are, or should be. Not to mention, that board/maker, most likely embellished the numbers. I do wish you the best of luck. Hell, just coming in and asking questions, and wanting to know and learn, ... you are already well ahead of most, and the curve. Cheers and best of luck. edit- also, remember, if your are looking for "large-ish" numbers. It takes power, to make power. No board on the planet can "make" power on its own. Also,.. please. Please be very very carful, of who you are taking info in from please. There is a TON of nonsense, and welp, straight bullshit out there. Do your own reading and learning mate. Sure take others info in, but be very very carful on what is out there.

Just a quick bump. In case anyone's missing the vids Tony D is dropping lately. There is more than just this one. But i really like how he went in the weeds on this one. Cheers all. (edit- also, im running the 400.4 and 1500.1 in my rig, have been for a long while now. Love these boards, and im not nice to them at all)

"Hair tricks" on a 12, in a jeep. Best of luck with any gear mate.

Id set your low and high pass on your mids and highs dependent on your set up, gear, wants, needs.

Who did you have repair the last one?

Cool. None of my enclosures even have screws. Never had a "leak" or anything break apart. Odd. 80 amp, and not blowing the fuse. You are no where near, peak power. Not even half. Sooooo, your good. No breaking shit,.. from power anyway. Edit- maybe just a really poorly built enclosure. I've never, in my decades of audio, had the privilege of seeing anyone "blow" their box apart,, unless it was a pile of wood just hucked together, or a prefab. Even then, it wasnt from "power". But good luck to your goal mate.

Whats the rating of the fuse, you are saying you arent blowning??? " So far no fuses are blowing or anything. " And, you arent gonna "blow" any box apart. Ever. Whoever your talking to, or reading from on "youtube". Dont pay any attention to them. Blow a box apart, jesus christ.

Jesus my guy. Come play some warzone with me. Edit- my next buy is a 240 (plus) Hz oled. Maybe the Rog rig. Not sure. May wait a tick. Monitors are just getting sooooo good. But, i want a rad oled thats wicked fast. Just 2 g7 240hz (27 and 32 inch) here. I want a nice oled.

Jesus christ....... Good shit hoss.... enjoy.

STABLE, actually means something mate....

The 5000d is a great case, and has been for a long time. This Hyte y60 is a turd. I dont care for it at all. Even with water, the air flow is shyte. Looking at a lian li case. Not sure if ill do another build, or what. But, i hate this hyte case, and would highly recommend to anyone to pass on it. EDIT- and to each their own, but i think the black soft tubing looks fucking rad. To each their own. Nice work also,... im trying to learn as much as i can. Shits changed SOOOoooo much from my last desktop i had, in 2002 LOL.... Yes, 2002 was my last home desktop.

Ditched the EK revisor, and wanted to go manifold/pump combo. I originally bought the HYTE one, from HYTE. Meh,.... speaking to water peeps that know better, i found a guy. He does several manifold/pump combos for certain cases. (also, this hyte case is a turd, dont get it,.. get one from Lian Li or someone else. This case sucks for everything imho) Radikult-custom. His holds more fluid, looks better, mounts the d5 pump better, and, is just... well better. Went for it, and had it all in,out, and done in a couple hours. Also, i LOVE everything ive gotten from aquacomputer. Using their "hub" and software to control everything from the pumps, fans, and rgb. Great great shit. Temps down further, scores/benchmarks up. Pretty legit and fun to fuck with. Cheers all, and happy gaming.

All alts have a "turn on" rpm. Im a bit lost on you "tapping" a wire from anything. Even then, that shouldnt matter. The alt, has a turn on rpm. The simple connector should have you not tapping into anything, but, i dont know your rig, build, or that alt. I would call mechman. They are awesome over there.

Lulz... it happens mate, trust me lol. Good to see you around again. Your builds where always the shit. Hope you are doing well, struggles sure, but pounding through em. Stay gold mate.

Yerp, you are looking for "pro audio". Best of luck getting what ya need. That said... pro audio drivers = puke.... but, to each their own. (sits back and waits for the 47 people to tell me "their pro audio mids and tweets sound AWESOME"........) Again, to each their own.

God damn,.. you still around bro? Good shit. Build in your bio pic looks amazing. Hope you and yours are well.

Welcome new members. Something to keep in mind, is the DATE of the posts. Like this one brought back from the dead. Half the people here, where in kindergarten most likely when this post was made. That said, id have 50 subs on 1/10th power, over one. Just me. CHeers, welcome new members, but, .... take a gander at the DATE, of what your reading. Again, welcome.

Because your "turn on " is to low. (rpm)

0db eh? 0db is as clean as you can get (provided your tone is clean in the first place, -5 would be "louder/more overlap or gain") Then that should be clean as all get out. (for what i played, i loved -7.5, which is "louder/more "gain" ) So, smell, is it a sweet, like sugar smell? Im not familiar with your drivers, tho, i know DB makes nice nice drivers. Seems like you have a scope, as you mention your waves are wavy, which, i dont really get. What you want to avoid on a scope, is a square line. To me, if they arent hot (the drivers) , i think your smelling the coil/former glue cooking off. I know when i get my sp4s a hundred years ago, a few songs in, .. laying into it, id get this sweet/sugar smell. Long story short, i ran those things hard (those here that know me, know) and competed with the for around 5 seasons. Never ever had a coil issue. Did loose a spider on two after 4 plus years of hammering the fuck out of them. But no thermal issue. And i was tripping day one when i powered them up. If your cone is decently cool, id suspect your fine. Run em... and run em how you want to. I think you are fine, and come back in a few weeks after beating on them. Ill bet the smell, damn near goes away.

No idea why you are setting any xover on the HU... you have a dsp. Use the dsp you paid that much money for, to cut, pass band everything. Run the HU open on everything, get in the dsp soft ware, and use the cut offs and slopes.....And turn everything on the head unit to off, and use the dsp you bought. Why you are adjusting freq bands, on the HU when you have a decent dsp, is..... well, .... odd. And when you are "looking for clipping" what are you playing? A song? or? And you have the "bass" on the hu all the way down? Why are you adjusting anything on the HU, if you have a full blown dsp? EDIT- have you even gotten into the dsp software yet? Why are you using the HU to do the job of that money brick you bought? Lets start there first. Show a pic of the DSP software, not the head unit. (and set the hu all to flat, then, use the dsp you paid for)