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Kyblack76

SMD Silver Member
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Everything posted by Kyblack76

  1. I've never ran, nor seen the comp sets, but I will assume they are (wired to the xover net work they come with) will be a 4ohm, NOMINAL, load. With music, which is dynamic, wired at a 4 ohm load, with 2 drivers reacting (ohm load changes), doubtful you see the power you are thinking you will. Its not that the salt4 isnt powerful, it is, for a mid/tweet application. If i was you, id run as is, but be hella, HELLA, careful of the frequencies your sending to the tweets. That will be your down fall,.if any, over power. I used a T1000.4ad, separate channels, at a 2 ohm nominal, on 2 tweets and two mids. And ran them like that for almost 2 years. How are you cutting each driver? (Pass band, or, cut offs) using just the amp? Then id start off very very easy, on the tweets. Cut them (high pass) very high, and drop down, if you feel ok about it. Make any sense my guy?.?
  2. Do you compete? port up, at times, can yield better mic performance. But ive seen port forward, on the driver side, when mic'd on the pass dash, do best also. (As far to the back driver side as possible). Not competing, and just want some lows, and loud i may have went 12s, because your enclosure volume is going to be small, hell, (which will be hard to get a longer vent/port length) even if you wall it. Power doesn't really matter if your efficient about it. (Larger/proper enclosure)
  3. You could run 2 tweets left, 2 tweets right, 2 mids left, 2 mids right. Turn the tweets down, if need be.... no sure of the impedance on each, dont know the comp set well, but...
  4. So a 4 chan amp, on 2 component sets? Your going passive it seems.?
  5. Dual bats here (5th gen 4runner) Why, why do you need two alts?
  6. Turn the deck up to "comfortable" , on the headliner drivers,.. Then, adjust the gains on the other gear. Basically, make your peak volume, on the source, comfortable with what it's running, then, adjust the gain, to thar volume. Or, get those off the head unit, and amplify them, and have more control. -this is what id do. Good luck
  7. Send it to ampmedics. They have repaired a few od my boards. Also, another casez where fusing the amp, doesnt do much. Saved more on a repair, maybe. Save the board, never. Best of luck. I actually loved my dc 10k. Though it also needed work after a couple seasons. Not even wired real low. Again, good luck.
  8. Thats been reconed.... period. Even garage sell sundown gear, is rad....... Makes me wonder about the coil and shit they even used. That said, pass, ... if you already bought it,.... take it back.
  9. and ill bet my life, your not seeing anywhere near that,.. on music. just saying
  10. Dropping to 13volts is nothing, hell, that's over battery rest. What is the issue again...? 13 volts, means your running right off thw alternator. Your not even using your battery reserve. People would kill to hold over 13v at full rip most of the time. I dont understand your question or concerns. Car audio is 12v, if no one was aware. And can be fine way way way WAY lower. Dropping into the 11s, or even 10s is fine. Are your amps shutting down from low voltage???? What is your issue even? (Man, holding 13 would make me wet back back in the day) Dude above is trying to say your rig is PCM controlled,its for gas savings. 13s are perfectly fine. Hell, 11s can be. Hell, 10s will run your shit fine. If your amps aren't shutting down from low voltage,... or whatever else your seeing,.. your more than fine. Adding more batteries, wont even increase your voltage over 13.... and running a 16v system will or could introduce a entite other shit show.
  11. 6k, at what reactive load. Hence my question of where the OP was wired.
  12. Dont know if anyone even looks at the FS stuff on here these days. That said, i have BNIB, never hooked up Damore boards FS. 350.2 and 1000.1. Dm for info. I am a super seller on here. Have been for years. No bullshit here. References available on this site. Kyle
  13. Didn't read anything. Is the dd1 just "blinking" the distortion light? That isnt anything. Also, is your signal light on, when this happens? The distortion light, just "blinking" for a split second, is NOT set point. Fyi
  14. Suspension nor the size of the motor, projects at all to thermal capacity of a coil. I like loose. Loose will have a lower FS. If your competing, want maximum on a tone/burp, and play one frequency, then a tight suspension (when you put a ton of power at a desired frequency, and enclosure tuning, where the driver moves the LEAST) is desired. I prefer a looser, broke in suspension for my daily ground pounders. Another edit- Just a personal post, but, i had Fi sp4s long ago. And adored those drivers. Beat on them for many many seasons. Soft spot in my heart for those drivers.
  15. Sure. Do whatever peals your banana. I wouldn't, but sure, you can. Theres a reason you dont see many (hell if any) people do it. Edit- also, if Crutchfield or, whoever told you "Sealed boxes give you "tight, accurate" bass, while ported delivers "boomy, loud" bass, just delete those websites (at least the advise section) or dont listen to those people/friends. They are lost or trying to sell something.
  16. If your running the oem head unit, that will be the issue. You could build a 11 cube enclosure, tuned to negative 97, and "tune" forever,... but if your source isnt even giving you those frequencies, then you are hosed. Shit in, shit out. deon1818 gets it.
  17. Wired at 1.3, ya, youll be way fine. You might, see half the power on music. I bet not even that. Also, im with homeboy above, your connections,.. uh, spend more time on. Enjoy.
  18. I just got into printing shit myself. Fun lil hobby. I just bought one. They are relatively cheap these days, and work well.
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