Jump to content


SMD Silver Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Kyblack76

  1. Yerrr, if your running duals, let the smaller do work at lower RPM's and get a larger for leaning on the system. Kinda best of both worlds. That said, your not running much power, ... and that 370 is a fucking tank of a nater. (alternator)
  2. Yerrrr,.. whats cracking homie. Its coming along pretty decent. I kinda wish id done 12's (the space) but, this lil molle panel and shelf system is pretty dope, and glad it actually fit. I dig it. Hope you and yours are well homeslice.
  3. I have yet, to hear a shallow mount driver, of any make, or any kind, sound worth a damn. They all suck, by nature/design. All of them. IMHO.
  4. Ill bet the oem source level is to low. But, sure, you could set the source up at 7/8s of max, same on the lc7, then, run the dd1 with the amp, and adjust accordingly. Hopfully you dont have a cock ton of floor noise.
  5. First things first,.. do you see SIGNAL ?????? Lets not worry about the distortion light yet. Do you see the 1k or 40hz signal on the dd1 first ?
  6. The list of "150db" leader board on term pro, in just DB drag, is about 47 pages long. Just in the 1k class. Most, have 2 drivers, and not 18's. Your vehicle plays a big role in metering efficiency. If all you are doing, is chasing numbers, Id rethink your entire set up. (To me, the Fi btl, is one of the most rad drivers out there,.. i love them, especially for a daily ground pounder, but hey, do you)
  7. Also got my rock lights back to working. Had a lil hiccup when the lift was installed. Got them repaired, and working again. 20220526_000307.mp4
  8. Found that the head unit is clean to full/max volume. Set the sub amplifier at -7.5db overlap. I was close, but now I know the head unit is clean (my biggest want) and the board is set with my prefered overlap. Good shit. Gets down ok. Next, is fighting the roof rattles. I want to get into the headliner, put some mass up there in a few specific areas, and i think thatll help a ton. Also ran sweeps and saw what the vehicle and enclosure like. It has a super flat responce, barely losing a db in 20 herz. It has a nice nice "peak" around 28hz, and then again around 40hz. Its kinda acting like a band pass. I dig it. Im glad the vehicle resonates low. On to rattle fighting. 20220523_131052.mp4
  9. Never heard of those components either. But they look really nice. If they are a 4ohm load, i dont see why the board would be getting that hot, that fast. Bummer. Does it shut down, thermally ? or just start muffling ? Or both ? Thats a bummer. Send it back. I dont know those comp sets from adam, but, they look quite nice. Best of luck getting to where you wanna be mate. EDIT - for fun, put a meter on the output, when its fine, take reading, then let it eat, take note with meter when it goes to shit. Just for fun.
  10. At what ohm load? Running what? I know nothing of the nendo S4.
  11. Nice. Post a pic or two, or a vid even. Glad your happy
  12. Watch or skip to around 5:40 A amplifier at 1ohm, doing around 5k on the dyno. The amp dyno is a reactive load test. So a 1ohm test, is like wiring down to .33 nominal,.. ish,.... many factors play here, and no way to know, unless you test. Watch the 1ohm nominal load (the quad box is wired at 1ohm, NOMINAL) on a reactive load, and watch the power made. Now, wire that to a 4ohm nominal,... the power would be around half, or a 3rd of what you see there. A difference even to your ear, fuck ya,... Im with sundown here Wire to one ohm, nominal if you want any power from the board. Or, by a 10k amp, and wire at 4ohm. Edit- daily drive a 1500, at .5. Competed around .33 for music (average time runs) disciplines, lower for burps (reactive load doesn't fluctuate near as much)..everyone in the lanes, does the same. For daily, a 1ohm load, nominal, is completely fine for his set up. Obviously, be smart, regardless
  13. Google impedance rise my guy. Wired at 4ohm nominal, when music is played (a dynamic load) , the board will see around 3 times that,.. reactive. (Good god ive been asking about that a ton lately) Edit- honestly, i see more people blowing their shit, because they "expected more" from a board not even coming close to rated (crank that gain) than people "over powering," from a good clean signal.
  14. Wired at 4ohm nominal, your board wont make dick for power reactive. Wire to 1ohm. Regardless, 1ohm, 4ohm, 98ohm, .25ohm, you need to watch for clipping/noise/distortion. That said, wire to 1ohm.
  15. Doubtful. If the subsonic filter is set to high, less voltage would be put to the drivers. (you'd be cutting off low end), the low pass set to low, would be the same. Less signal, and to high, id think you'd hear the sub playing wonky shit (cymbals and shit). If you are wanging on it, and they just get warm, and you are certain the clipping is under control, I would sweat it, and just let it eat.
  16. That ^^^ and, just using the "3/4" method on the head unit, ... you are most likely leaving a ton on the table to start with.
  17. You,.. have a lot,.. a LOT to learn. Recommend you keep on reading and growing
  18. Well that turned out great. Made a ton of stuff fit wicked nice. Good shit per usual. EDIT- man, ive used a SHIT TON, of that Raptor liner, but only in the dual part kit. Never used the aerosol can. Looks like it did great. Ive sprayed fucking everything with raptor liner. I love it. I just sprayed my rock sliders with it. I love that stuff. Also, for anyone that knows, what are the silver, threaded holes on the sides of the Titan8's ? Im way unfamiliar.
  • Create New...