Kyblack76

EDIT- sounds like you watch Big D and his amp dynos. I do to. Hes a stud. Great dude. In his videos, he will usually do a music test with the amm1 meter at the end. Watch the impedance or load change with the freq of the music, and the power at those loads, and why you dont see a board make 5k, when he just dyno'd it showing 5k (or whatever number and board). Music is dynamic, and changes the load. When he does the dyno, it doesnt change. The load is constant. Your alternator, is also rated to make its power at a certain RPM. Sitting idle, (low rpm) its making its LEAST amount. Reved up, usually around 2k, is "max" output. I know Singer, and DC Power, Mechman, all of them. JS makes a great alternator also. But there is variables boss. Everywhere. Shit ton of variables mate. Happy pounding bro.

Amp dynos are a "reactive" load, not nominal, and why on those tests, you see all the amps, and all the power. For you to do that real world, you would have to wire down to like .25, and even then,, a million factors come into play with load/resistance. No idea what load you are presenting the amp (1ohm) but it can quadruple (and usually much more) with a moving driver, and on music not a tone, and such with the board, not making near, half the "MAX" power. For a daily pounder, you are fine. The dimming can be annoying , but dem da breaks in this hobby. Getting some source of knowing what your voltage is doing wouldn't be a bad idea. Some sort of meter. But if you pound on it driving, park it, and it cranks over the next day, chances are, your not killing your battery. And remember, this is a 12v hobby. Dipping into battery voltage, isnt a horrible thing. If you see 9vdc, .. your running through batteries constantly,.. need a jump in the morning, the amp goes into low volt protect, then id look into it deeper. Some light dimming (that you only noticed, because you had them on, and probably parked at idle, where the alt wont make much power/amps) isnt the end of the world.

lol

Nicely done. Fuck ups happen. Getting them sorted, is the key. Good shit boss

But did you have a "load" on it, on the bench.???? Looks like no, you didnt. When the board is presented with a load (speakers hooked up, as the load) things may change mate.

You have a shit ground, Or, the amp is blown.

Just use a larger overlap. Like -15. Cheers.

Doubt your making half the power you think you are. Your js 250 should be doing fine, but any drop, like a tenth, will dim old shitty halogens. Put led in and that will cure that. A alternator, will absolutely make full out put, IF, its demanded to. (also why your not popping your alt fuse) You could have 14.4vdc, and drop to 13.99 and old og bulbs, will dim. Healthy starting voltage or not. In fact, a better alt, can induce WORSE noticed dimming, because it chargers higher. Does that make sense? But dimming issues, fast voltage drops, in a car, are so fast, the alt cant respond fast enough to remove that fast dip, and dim on the old bulbs. If your voltage is fine, then don't sweat the dimming. Part of the party. LED's wont dim, regardless of drop. Due to their design. EDIT - Found a old vid. 1 Singer 320 clamped, just daily on music (not in the lanes letting it really rip on a tone). And i had 2. Both hair pins. And both would be taxed when i leaned on it. Never even looked or cared about my head lights. (old as fuck blazer, with old as fuck halogens) Never cared.

If you are seeing 12.8 min, you are beyond fine. Car audio is 12vdc mate.

Ya wanna "strap" 2 half bridge boards......... Read that again, please. If your dead set, on wanting to strap, 2 half bridge boards,........ Then watch, and enjoy. Let us know how it goes. Cheers. Edit- ive had, and been running a 1500.1 from Tony since the day they launched. Ive adored the board. (2 15" crossfire c5's) Fantastic board, zero issues.

Why is "strapping" so needed? Gain match and be done.

There is a reason no one makes a multi alt bracket for a honda mate. 2.4 or 3.5, dont matter. Get a nice, NOT max alt, but something like a working 270 HAIRPIN style,... or , specify to the maker, you'd like a lower turn on if possible, (rpms) and add reserve. Done.

Well, lets math. 12v X 220amp = 2640watts (dont care about 14v, you wont hold that either) That said, youll probably see half the power on music. So ya, let it eat. (id have a second battery, but, do you) And, youll most likely never see a full 220amp from your alt, especially at idle, normal driving. But, you wont be making 3k all day long either. Hook it up and bang dude. Cheers.

If it sounds good, why care.

Ditch the iosolater

The 1988 "run power wires away from signal wires" is basically dead now. You need to figure out what the noise is. If it changes with rpm, then that is alternator "whine". To me, its one of your 47 things inline ( 2 amps and a dsp and epicenter) and one of those introducing "noise". If you pull the rca's from the deck (source) then its most likely the amplifier.

Audio Control

Just here to say to say, those JL slash amps are cool. Especially if it has the RIPS feature. (the constant power stuff like rockford) You are over thinking 300 watts, and thinking the number on the box matters. Your electrical will be more important than the board in this case.

If you are using the HU, and basically zero control (TA, power, cut off/xover, freq adjustments) then just buy what you want and stick em where you have space. If it was me, id try and get tweets higher, power them, cut them off proper and band tweak them. That said, if you can fit something larger in that space, like a 5-1/4 with a tweet or something, then id do that. Other wise, just buy something and put it in. Cheers.

Meh, i built another water rig. Msi meg Ace 7800x3d Asrock Aqua with vbios (5XX watts) 2 samsung 990 pros EVGA T3 1600 2 420 rads for gpu 1 420 artic freezer III gskill cl 36/6400

Not sure, but replying to a 12 year old thread, most likely wont help

Do you rev the motor up (rpm's) when you burp? or just idle. Also, your gear is 12v. So staying even above that, when hammering on that is beyond fine. Cheers. Rev your motor/spin your alt, if you want your alt to turn on.