jsmoke222000

I'm offshore right now @ work. I guess I'll have to download it when I get home. Updates would be awesome though!

Update? Pics? How did they turn out?

<--------- Waiting on pics!

As a shop owner, I'd be willing to raffle something off. I'd just be worried that it might take a long time to sell enough tickets for a large item. For example, I could raffle off a new set of 24" rims & tires. But it might take a long tome to sell enough tickets to cover the cost of the rims + shipping. I've got no problem with it but it would be a major pain in the ass to refund $5 to 200 people because not enough tickets were sold.

I would be leaning toward bad RCA's. Try hooking up a LOC (line output converter) to see if the same thing happens. A LOC would eliminate bad preouts or confirm bad RCA's My bad. I just read where you switched RCA's. Still I would try a LOC to rule out bad preouts

If you want a double din, I've got a brand new Pioneer AVH P6000DVD

I would find the orange or pink wire & connect it to your red wire on your decks harness. That way your blue wire can be reserved for an amp if you ever decide to add one. Just go through the factory harness & cross reference it with the wire colors I posted. You should have 1 extra wire in the factory harness, that will be your factory amp turn on.

I've got a 2003 Chevy Tahoe. I recently did a 2/4 drop. Spindles in the front & springs in the back. I also got new shocks all the way around. I ordered this stuff through chassis tech. Big mistake. The shocks they sent me suck ass. They look like something off my kids bike. They are skinny as hell & I can easily push them in with only my hand. My ride is rough as hell now that I have put on these junk ass shocks. I wint with spindles in the front to keep a smooth ride but these new shocks are not cutting the mustard. I need some advice on new shocks. I want a smooth factory like ride. As it is right now I can bounce my truck around up and down 6 inches with my hand! I have been looking @ belltech nitro 2 drop shocks. I have heard alot of good things about these. Are they worth the money? Is there a better shock out there than the nitro 2's? Your input on this would be greatly appreciated. Anyone else with an opinion is welcome to chime in also. and just so everyone knows, CHASSISTECH SUCKS DONKEY COCK!

I think your factory amp is behind the glovebox. Those wire colors are for your factory harness, not the one you bought.

If you don't have bose, it shouldn't matter. Do you have onstar? Is this a new radio? Hook up the blue wire for the hell of it to see if you have some sort of factory amp that needs to be turned on. What kind of harness did you buy? The cheap one for $10 or the one that retains the factory chimes? Your stock harness should be wired like this. Radio 12v orange + radio harness Radio Ground black - radio harness Radio Ignition dk. green + radio harness Radio Illumination brown + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on orange or pink + radio harness LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness

Looking good man! When you start adding body filler to those pods, just be sure to double check fitment. Looking @ your panels are giving me flash backs of last week doing mine. Looking real good though. Post more pics when you can.

If you want a dou double din with dvd & nav, the premier F90BT might be an option. The pioneer D3 is ok, but I don't care for the memory navigation function. I personally have a Pioneer Avic Z2 in my tahoe.

It's not double din, but no monitor. The pioneer AVH P6000DVD is double din.

I've also got a brand new Pioneer AVH P6000DVD. Double din 6 disc dvd

You can add navigation to the eclipse CD7100. Link

Which alpine or eclipse deck do you want? The Eclipse CD7200 is the best thing out right now as far as sound quality. 8 volt preouts!

a kicker ZX2500.1 will do around 2750 @ 2 ohms.

Soldering the connection would be much better but I assumed you probably didn't have the tools to do that. If you do, by all means, solder it.

ok, find the fuse for the wipers or a fuse that powers up with the keys turned on, remove the fuse, wrap a wire around one of the metal prongs on the fuse, plug the fuse back in, connect the other end of the wire to the red wire coming off of your radio.

ok, Now I understand. You purchased a cheap $10 harness from Walmart instead of the expensive module. That is ok. The only thing you really gain by having the module is the factory chimes. Anyway, the cheap harness you bought will work just fine with the exception of the red acc wire. Hook all other wires up between your radio & the harness you bought normally. Discard the red wire on the cheap harness you bought, it won't work. The GM data line will not power up that wire, that's what the module is for. To resolve that issue run a wire from your fuse box windshield wiper fuse to your radio & attatch yhat wire to the red wire going to your radio. everything should work just fine. If you have any more trouble, post here & the car audio gods will again bail you out. Good luck.

NO NO NO. What do you have? Did you buy a cheap wiring harness for like $10 from walmart. If so, the red wire on that harness will not work! Hook all other wires up normally including the yellow wire. Run the red wire off of your deck to the fuse box. PM me your phone # & I'll explain it to you.

Correct. The red wire on the cars wiring harness will not work & is not needed. Just hook up your red wire on the wiring harness from the radio to your fuse box. Those Stupid ass Chevy data lines are a pain in the ass.

Just T-tap your accessory wire in your ignition harness. If that is too much trouble, go to the fuse box with your red (acc) wire & use the wiper fuse or a fuse that powers up with the car on.

UPS delivered mine on Monday! Sweet deal!

I have done a few ext cabs similar to this.