CompressionFed

I think roughly and inch is about as far as you can go before denting the side. If you need more than that, use a cutting wheel (very carfully) and re-create the curve of the wheel well where you want the new fender to start. Then use a baseball bat to "roll" the last inch for that finished look.

That's possible. There is a chance I'm wrong, but I would put money down that those individuals just plain did something wrong.

You're right, it should adjust. I'm wondering though if people had problems with CEL's because they didn't hook it back up or something. The cold air intake should do NOTHING to the electronics. So your enjoying the forced induction huh?!?! Be careful, it's addicting. If you think @250whp is fun, your should try 500+

Hmm, that sounds odd that a CAI will throw a CEL. Does the car run a MAF? Your comment about running only 10 pounds could be correct. Can you tell where the gauge is hooked? Most OEM turbo equiped cars use the actual compressor housing to read boost, verse reading at the intake manifold. Obviously if its hooked at the compressor, you will see a boost loss from the the compressor to the manifold. If you see black smoke under hard acceloration, you are correct, it may run slightly rich. Running the cold air intake won't change that though. The only way you can change that on a EFI/SC car such as yours would be through ECU adjustment. I wouldn't worry about the slight smoke though. GM tuned the car that way to create a margin of error (on the safe side). That motor is a stout bitch though, it may be a little out of your price range, but your could switch to turbo and make some serious power! GM will help you out too...they set out to take over the sport compact market and they built the motor to do it.

Here is a list of tuners around the country...looks like there is one in NM. What are you trying to tune? http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1347699

I would like to buy a stock Expedition or any stock double din radio. It doesn't need to work at all. I will be cutting the face off to cover the real stereo (theft deterant). Let me know if you guys have anything I can use.

Hi guys. Recently had my HU stolen. I would like to buy a stock Expedition or any stock double din radio. It doesn't need to work at all. I will be cutting the face off to cover the real stereo (theft deterant) Thanks for the help guys.

You know, when I buy interior pieces or parts in general for Honda's, I expect to pay an arm and a let for them. Their imports...and in many cases, the parts are not made anymore because the car is 10 years old. I would assume that a 4 year old American vehicle would have parts that cost much less but noooooo.

ahh, sorry sir.

No, I'm probalby going to look at Alpine this time around. I'm going to spend some time thinking about it, I'm not sure I really need navigation anyway. I hardly use it. I custom molded the center dash bezel for the unit, so either way I go I have to buy a new one...Friggin thing is $140 from Ford for that little damn bezel!!! >

I'm not reporting it to my insurance, I don't need a raise in rates. This will have to come out of my pocket.

LOLOLOL O God, that's funny. That made my day right there...thanks bro!

Yeah it's a terrible feeling...the feeling of violation. But I know others have had it much worse than me (steve) and it could have been worse than it was. They caught me slippin' one night..damn.

I awoke this morning to see that my Navi/CD player was missing from my Expo. It was my fault. Somehow last night I didn't arm the alarm. I had gone shopping with wifey, naturally I carried all the bags in, I just didn't hit the button I guess. Here's what kills me. The thief was so very careful to just unplug the harness from the back, and even tucked the wired back into the dash. He didn't bother taking the Navi Antenna (dummy). He didn't take my work cell, or the blue-tooth unit. He didn't take any CD's or my check book. My rear glass was not completely shut (which killed the battery) so I know he saw the three amps and two 10W7's. I saw a very small screwdriver-like impression where he tried to take a sub, but after realizing he didn't know how to get to the screws, he didn't even poke a hole in the sub in frustration. I guess overall I'm happy that he didn't destroy my truck/equipment. He was a thief with a little bit of consious.?.?.?

x2...People make it sound like it's simple to work with...Most noobs will never figure it out. Don't let my "noob" status on a forum misdirect you...I was building speaker boxes based on the math I did with Thiele/small measurements on a notepad witha pencil when I was 13 (15 years ago).

BTW, the only tuning you can do on your stock ECU would be intake/exhaust timing. Other than that the only dyno time you would want would be before and after pulls to measure the gains. Most dyno shops charge between $35-75 for 3 pulls.

If your in Dallas, I know some great shops down there that can do this. There's really no need for the road trip. I'm happy to answer any questions you have though.

I live in VA actually, not Cali. I could do everything including cam install, header install, and throttle body, then tune the cams in about 3 hours.

Cool, I just found it. Thanks

Hope this is in the right place... I'm looking for any software that would help me layout the needed cuts for a box in a CAD-like program. I know that TermPak does it. Are there any others? Maybe free-ware.

MegaLow, if you were local, or wanted to take the road trip, I would sponsor the dyno time so you could see the before and after of the mods. Especially the header and throttle body before/after.

Thank you sir, from what I hear you are quite the wiz yourself so I take your comment as a compliment.

Yes, again this is controlled by the ECU. The three upgrades I mentioned are mechanical changes. Shift points, VTEC engangement is electrical. In order for VTEC to engage, you need the following to happen; 1)Oil pressure at the solonoid must be roughly 75psi (this means you have to have adquate oil level) 2)Water tempeture must be at usual driving temp. 3)65-75% throttle position (full throttle) When all these conditions exist, the VTEC solonoid opens pushing oil into little pins inside the rockers. This locks the rockers together allowing the middle lobe on the cam (VTEC LOBE) to lift the valves. If you ever look at a Honda VTEC camshaft, you will see three lobes. One big one in the middle (VTEC lobe), and two smaller, offset lobes to either side. The two smaller lobes are offset from one another so that they open the intake valves at slightly different times. This allows for "swirl" to take place inside the cylinder. This swirl helps flame propagation from the spark plug to create a very efficient burn inside each cylinder. ***This is how honda's make great power in such a small displacement motor/ with great fuel economy. Here's a fun fact for you! The Honda Civic Type R (only offered in Japan) was a 1.6 liter motor that made 185hp. It is still recognized as one of the most efficient motors ever to be placed in a OEM/manufactured vehicle. If Ford could duplicate this technology in a mustang,,, Every 5.0 you see on the road would make roughly 581 hp in stock trim. That's 116 hp/per liter!!

Your gear ratios can NOT be thrown off by any mods to the motor. Your shift points are set by the computer also. Throttle body = $250-300 Header = $400-600 Cams = $400-800 BTW, I would never let you be called a ricer bro! ;D

Any sized shank?