carshateme

x2. I normally free air my subs. =X

yeah, I don't get the why they use staples....I only use staples in the corner of my box, so my screws don't split the board.

both subs are mounted upside down (and ported) and when i put my head on the top of the box (closest to the magnet) they both make a noise when they play music, im going to assume every time the sub push's in and out, and even if the song does not have alot of bass the whole box shakes when it does it. Make another video, place the camera where the subs are. Could help us out a little bit.

cause im lazy as fuck and its 18 degrees outside I don't blame ya for that one. lol it's pretty cold in Michigan right now. Thankfully I have a heated garage...waste of money, yes...but it keeps me warm =)

Learned this the hard way.. melted a battery. Way to go me =) Sounds like a popped fuse to me.

Sub DB is fine as long as it remains below 10, they recommend 8 (if my alternator could handle all 1200 watts) but it can not, Bass +DB is very bad i hear though, thats why its way far in the negative's. What would be the big problem if it makes a werid noise going up and down? I was referring to the noise in the video. But thank you for telling me about the bass +dB. I must've mixed up what someone told me. Appreciate it =)

IMO....from past subwoofers doing this...it's a sub problem. It could be multiple things, but do what the guy a couple posts up said, free air the sub, if it still makes the noise...or a crackling noise...then you have a big problem. Is it just me...or isn't setting the sub dB on a headunit...a very bad idea? I know I completely killed subs by doing that...which is the reason it remains at 0 dB. Past problems - Blown driver, Dust cap annihilated, Voice coil rubbing, Hole in the spider.

I had 4 sealed. It got pretty pretty dang loud...but then I downgrade to a ported box and 3 ported. It went from 126.7dBs to 147.4dBs. Porting a box is really insane if you know what you are doing. *Your box controls 70% of your SQ.

Okay, I will post up pictures once I'm done, ps, I'm not removing my seat. lol..I live in Flint...the minute someone sees you have subwoofers in your car...you're screwed. haha. Luckily I have a garage and two fine car alarms. I will post pictures once I'm done...it won't be done til the spring though...that's when my impala comes out of my garage. Don't worry, I do run it every day for 10 minutes. =) ...Now to decide rather if I want the subs sticking outwards...or inwards. hmmm. =S Guess I have a whole season to think.

That was what I was going to do, fit 4 on each side and 8 in the middle or back. I want to put all the amps under the carpet, I'm removing my spare tire and and try installing some mechanical opening device...kinda like a radio din.

Lol why because of their big trunks? No, it's a 2009 Supercharged Chevy Impala

Well I would. Just I have 12 infinity subs...long story short...buddy of mine wanted to put a bunch of 8s in his jeep, he totaled it out in a car crash, thankfully he was okay, he need a little bit of money so I bought them all off him for $372. Although I didn't want to mess with my Impala, but since my project car...is pretty much full...of my audiobahns, might as well as put them somewhere.

Okay I'm just asking if it's a wise idea to put 12 8" Infinity Reference subwoofers in the back of a chevy impala. Gonna parallel wiring them to 4 ohms, *have 3 amplifiers*...4 subs per amplifier. Going to fiberglass the whole trunk, just trying to make it look nice to show off.

Yeah, similar to my setup. Cept my amp is set on HPF and not LPF...so I don't get much bass from my component speakers...for my woofers...make up 99% of it. lol.

You get what you pay for. =S I have the same set up in my car front 4x6s and rear 6x9s. I ended up replacing them both with hertz component speakers. Hooked em up to a fusion amp...I have no complaints =) Ofc most 4x6s...you can get away with putting 6.5" in them. You just have to make a bracket for them.

I noticed that as well, was going to say something about that.

Um, This is how I did mine...I wired it from alt > starter battery. Not fused...but if you want to fuse, it has to be 12"-18" away from the battery. Then you'd want to fuse the starter to cap. 12-18" away from the starter battery. run the line to the cap, then fuse the line that is going from the cap to the amp.

cant he just use an inline fuse instead of running another wire? anyways that happen to me when i went to install my amps last year like 10 months ago, stupid installer put 2 wires together and used zip ties to hold it then used blue tape like the one they use when you replacea window, i was so damn pissed and he said that it works so i told him since where it was done ran under the carpet wouldnt it create a short, he responded with thats why it has tape now step away and let me work im a proffecional, since i was in a hurry i let it go and got home later that night a fixed it running a new wire. few days later i complain to the shop he got fired and now i install my own amps since others dont give a crap about your things or if your car catches on fire. I still have that wire so if i ever see that guy working in another shop i can show the owner, anyways will take pics to show you guys. OP sorry for the thread jack The only reason I'd connect two ends is with speaker wire, not power wires.

Amp ground is Knu CCA 0 gauge. I've checked my wiring, none of them are ever hot. I'm thinking of doing the ground from the alt to the body.

Lol drew just wanted an excuse to stalk your profile. Just kidding =P yeah I have my reasons Buicks- smooth rides...kinda luxurious Pontatics- Looks nice and has some good features Chevy- Good vehicles all together, my main car. I love it.

LOL!!!

How do you know his "220" amp alt actually outputs 220 amps. Factory tested. 220amps at 4000rpm ground is probably my problem...there is no ground wiring, just what is mounted on the motor'. omg what company is that so i'll make sure i dont get one, 220 amps at 4000 rpm means you have to be driving over 100 mph. not if your a man and drive a manual. the only reason they made automatics is so women could drive too op maybe you should just drive everywhere @ 4k rpm. I thought that is why they made the ford Taurus.... -Drew lmao true, i can say one thing though they can take a beating i put mine through hell. i dont drive that anymore though now i have a crx. Lol I dislike fords with a passion. I'm a chevy/buick/pontatic person. but each their own. Thank you all for the solutions. I shall try upgrade my ground wire, if that doesn't work I will add another battery. If the problem still consists then my alternator is getting replaced

How do you know his "220" amp alt actually outputs 220 amps. Factory tested. 220amps at 4000rpm ground is probably my problem...there is no ground wiring, just what is mounted on the motor'. omg what company is that so i'll make sure i dont get one, 220 amps at 4000 rpm means you have to be driving over 100 mph. not if your a man and drive a manual. the only reason they made automatics is so women could drive too op maybe you should just drive everywhere @ 4k rpm. Lol. Try saying that to my 95 buick skylark with 133k miles on it, original engine. Lol @ drew's comment. @ Larry Will do the ground upgrade. If the problem still is consistent, I will upgrade my alternator, then add another battery....would want to get the expensive stuff out of the way. - My battery has 4 different grounds. 1 1/0 gauge ground and 3 4 gauge ground

DB electrical