chernenburn

Exactly right the pinion bearings will cause this. You can check them by pushing up on your driveshaft where it goes into the diff and feeling for any movement. If you decide to do it you will need a bearing splitter and a press to remove the inner brg.try not to destroy the shim underneath the bearing. You will need a piece of pipe that will fit over the pinion but only contact the inner race of the bearing so you can press the bearing down as straight as possible. The pinion moves around under different loads if your bearings are loose which changes the contact pattern and it makes noise. Once a pattern is made it doesn't go away so just replacing the bearings might not do it. A full ring and pinion with bearing replacement might be necessary so it might be in your best interest to get somebody to do it our get a new housing Exactly right you will need a bearing splitter and a press to remove the inner brg.try not to destroy the shim underneath the bearing. You will need a piece of pipe that will fit over the pinion but only contact the inner race of the bearing so you can press the bearing By the way my new Droid razor is a piece of shit ^^^^^ this mofo has more bugs....

Exactly right the pinion bearings will cause this. You can check them by pushing up on your driveshaft where it goes into the diff and feeling for any movement. If you decide to do it you will need a bearing splitter and a press to remove the inner brg.try not to destroy the shim underneath the bearing. You will need a piece of pipe that will fit over the pinion but only contact the inner race of the bearing so you can press the bearing down as straight as possible. The pinion moves around under different loads if your bearings are loose which changes the contact pattern and it makes noise. Once a pattern is made it doesn't go away so just replacing the bearings might not do it. A full ring and pinion with bearing replacement might be necessary so it might be in your best interest to get somebody to do it our get a new housing Exactly right you will need a bearing splitter and a press to remove the inner brg.try not to destroy the shim underneath the bearing. You will need a piece of pipe that will fit over the pinion but only contact the inner race of the bearing so you can press the bearing

you might have different bearing sizes. you won't know until you tear into it. that kind of thing changed from year to year. Put the .030" shim underneath the larger pinion bearing. Your regear kit ought to come south a shim kit for the pinion bearing make shure that it does. Don't tighten the pinion nut too tight. You want the turning torque required to turn the pinion to be in between 10 and 20 inch pounds of torque. If you go too high you will fuck you pinion brgs off. If you do that and put the carrier bearing shims back in the same location you took them out at you should be fine. If the ring gear has allot of slop in it you need to move it closer to the pinion with different carrier brg shims. The spec for ring gear backlash is .012"

there are so many different rear ends. if you want to get the right part your best bet is to write the numbers off of the tags that are fastend on to the rear cover by the rear cover bolts. call someone at ford racing and give them your vin number and the numbers off of those tags. Even then you still have a good possibility that you will get the wrong part so be prepared for your truck to have some extra downtown.

what was your factory tire size

if you don't dog it you'll be fine the 1 I rebuilt was for a 16 year old kid it probably his first truck so of course it was getting thrashed on

If you run a higher numeric ratio i.e. 4.10:1 vs 3.55 then you will have less of a tendency to ruin your rear end while you are running big tires. It will take the extra load off associated with running a larger diameter tire which intern lowers the numeric ratio. The bearings are what will typically fail, and the 4.2 doesn't exactly have the stoutest rear end. . Whatever you can get with a higher ratio for your rear end housing will help with reliability. I rebuilt the rear end on a 4.2 with big tires that only had 20k on it. Do the math and see what ratio will bring you back to stock driveshaft revolution speed per mph with your 33's. The 4.2 pistons have a long stroke so your not gonna want to spin alot of rpm's as long stroke=lower rpm capability due to a higher piston speed, so in short your engine's most efficient rpm will likely be low. I can't tell you what that is. x senior master ford driveline specialist

WHOEVER PUTS A HIGH QUALITY SUB IN A PRE FAB PRO BOX ROCKS OR WHATEVER NEEDS TO BE SLAPPED. I TAKE PRIDE IN HOW WELL MY ENCLOSURE IS BUILT SO THAT DEFINITELY WON'T BE ME. I NEED TO GET SOME NEW BOX DESIGN SOFTWARE, WHO HAS A GOOD ONE THAT ISN'T EXPENSIVE AS HELL? I'VE BEEN OUT OF THE GAME FOR A LITTLE WHILE AND I WANT TO DO SOME EXPERIMENTING WITH 6TH, 8TH, HORN BOXES ETC. TO KEEP MYSELF OCCUPIED. im confused as to why this is in all caps.... hahaha I had caps turned on for some reason and didn't notice it till i was halfway through typing and didn't feel like retyping everything.

Hook a 1 0hm stable amp up to each coil. You will need to have the amps hooked up to a 2 channel osciloscope at you local audio shop so that they can match the phase on both amps. That's about as cheap of an option as you've got if you wanna run 1.5 ohms.

That sounds great, i'm just torn between whether i should wait for the level 4 xl's to get in stock or just go ahead and get a level 5 15". I have a 1600x1 @1 ohm Hifonics Gen xx Zeus right now but i might trade+cash with my friend for a RF power bd2000.1. I'll be getting a 3.5k and alternator later.

WHOEVER PUTS A HIGH QUALITY SUB IN A PRE FAB PRO BOX ROCKS OR WHATEVER NEEDS TO BE SLAPPED. I TAKE PRIDE IN HOW WELL MY ENCLOSURE IS BUILT SO THAT DEFINITELY WON'T BE ME. I NEED TO GET SOME NEW BOX DESIGN SOFTWARE, WHO HAS A GOOD ONE THAT ISN'T EXPENSIVE AS HELL? I'VE BEEN OUT OF THE GAME FOR A LITTLE WHILE AND I WANT TO DO SOME EXPERIMENTING WITH 6TH, 8TH, HORN BOXES ETC. TO KEEP MYSELF OCCUPIED.

Because I have two kids that ride in my car and I would like it to have full presence and not seem muffled when its down low. When i'm by myself is another story altogether, low volume is when my rear view doesn't

Because I have two kids that ride in my car and I would like it to have full presence and not seem muffled when its down low. When i'm by myself is another story altogether, low volume is when my rear view doesn't move completely off (get diagonal) immediately, and side view mirrors don't flap up and down like a bird from the door flex. This ain't my first rodeo.

yeah the transition problem is exactly what I was talking about

3.2 cu ft not including port volume

I would like to keep the total box (port volume included) below 4 cubic feet for one 15. I'm tuning to 30hz with around 54sq in port area. I think that'll give me around 3.2cubes. would they do ok in a box this small?

ii am interested in the sound quality of the DC level 5 and level 4xl at lower listening levels. (low enough to talk over). They will be driven hard, just not all the time. any input from personal experience with these subs is appreciated.

77340 Huntsville Texas

I need a price on a level 4xl 12 and 15 and level 5 12 and 15 soft or standard spiders, cost and description of ar cone upgrade, carbon fiber dustcap, Price on 2k and 3.5k thanks,