tacomabanga1986

well i dunno wtf is wrong with it now, might be a bad transformer, i'll go check some other things later i tried str8 wireing it to my battery, they do the same thing as they did with the switch, i done the relay thing, same thing happened, tried to wire it back up to parking light wire, same issues the only transformer i can find is $60 thats 9000v @ 12v, im thinking about just spending $20 and getting the kit with the built in transformers what yall think? i know the underbody lights are played out but mine looked sick as hell, they looked more like a black light, there purple, with my tinted windows and what knot, made it look mean as shit i kinda hate i done all that wireing for nothing and have a toggle switch for nothing this is the kit im thinking about getting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Purple-Undercar-Underbody-4-Piece-Car-Neon-Kit-Lights-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a670f3e07QQitemZ250837155335QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_4987wt_1165 i'll go and try some things like, trying to get a better ground and stuff like that its bolted to my tow bar in the back of my truck, paint is scraped away, i dont understand tho cause my strobe lights and my back up aux lights are grounded to the same spot the transformer is and they work fine

i guess i'll try the relay thing tommrow, thankx for the help

lol, i kinda miss my booty avatar but i dunno where it went or someone deleted it, so i found something else, i guess it will have to do for now

i unno about the balls thing this is the switch im useing http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3098835 its rated @ 20amps max @ 12v but its on a 10amp circuit so i dont think its getting its full potential, i mean it worked fine for a few hrs and then it does the "everytime i flip the switch the lights flash once and go out" thing im thinking the parking lights are on a 20amp or so circuit vs my acc 10amp circuit its no biggie on the relay thing, im just wondering if that would help it i mean everything else ive got that i thought would put a load on my electrical has a relay, like my back up lights i took a t-tap and hooked it to my reverse lights pos wire at tail light, then ran that to the switch part of a relay, and then a wire from front battery to back to the relay and then ground, and with my fog lights i got a toggle switch going to a relay and then from there to fog light ballasts i guess it puts to much of a load on it on such a long run of wire i guess i'll try the relay tommrow and see if that fixs my problem, will 15amps work or 10amps be better for fuseing?

i got this multi meter its a fieldpiece sc77 true rms dmm, has everything from cap uf reader to amp clamp and my wire is fused @ 10amps twice, 1 10amp fuse at fuse panel threw a add a circuit fuse adaptor, and then from there with a 10amp fuse and then a 10amp fuse on the wire with the relay, would i run the main wire threw the relay to the transformer and then run the switch to the relay? i wonder if current flow would still work like this, i have an extra relay if i need to add it

well i got some weird problems with my neon lights my neon bulbs are Slow Glow, my neon transformer is Street Glow ok these are the ones i had on my honda and then put them on my truck, well i had them wired to a switch and they worked for some time and then after a while when i turn the switch on they would flash once and then go off well i said the hell with this and just unhooked em well 2 weeks ago i decided that why not try them when i was hooking up my aux back up lights, and they worked fine, but the thing is, i had them wired in with my parking lights so everytime my headlights are on they come on well i bought me some toggle switches to fix some of my "quick" wireing i had done on my truck to try to purty it up a little bit, well i ran some wire from the back of my truck to front and then threw firewall to switch, well with the wiring like i had it befor with parking lights they would come on and never go off unless i cut off my parking lights, well today they worked fine with the toggle switch i had em wired to untill a few hrs ago when i turn switch on they flash once and go off, why is this? the wire i used was 14guage ofc inwall speaker wire, this stuff is solid as hell so i know the current flow is there, its a 2 wire setup, 1 wire goes to my strobe lights in back and the other goes to neon why dont it work with a toggle switch but it will with parking lights? now my transformer is at the back of my truck grounded to metal threw its mounting foot thing, and i guess cause the wire was shortest to the tail light parking light wire, i had it hooked up with t-taps is there a way to get this to work from my toggle or just wire it back up to my parking lights and leave it at that, that's if they still work that way anyone have any ideas why it does this? everything is wired correctly so i dont see why it dont work right unless the current flow is less threw the long run of wire, the wire comeing out of the transformer is like 18-16guage, i got 14 going to it, i dont get it if i wired in a relay might it work? i hate i done all this wireing and now i cant use it sorry for the novel but im bumfuzzled on why the hell it dont work right with a switch when it used to, i mean i had it wired in with 18guage wire in my honda, but with 14guage i see no problems with it can someone help me with this, everything i wire up works fine ecept this thing, i mean the lights work perfect with parking light wire but with toggle switch they dont the reason i want em wired to a switch is so i can turn em off if i want to, i dunno what to use the toggle switch for now that it might not work for this

oh, i orignally thought this was a video splitter thing to let u watch ur comp on your tv, my comp has something of this sort built into it to work threw usb anyways good luck with sale man =)

this cable only works with newer pioneers right? cause mine has to use the interface threw teh ip buss

lol, befor u throw it away, could u ship it to me if i pay shipping? if it has wireless net or something like that i will pay for it, i dont need a ipad or w/e, just something basic to play around with, maby let my son play with it or something

what does this acually do? i might be interested but i dunno what it does reason for edit: haha, cool, u can control 2 comps with this? do they have to be the same kinda comps or same windows or how does this work? would be cool as hell to have this, dunno if i can use it or not, not trying to thread jack just learning

ya baffle flex bad, ive yet to have baffle flex lol, i guess when i build my boxs there bullet proof lol, well not really but u know i guess birch plywood ftw! and we need to make a clone of the girl in ur avy and the one in mine and put em together, baddd

most people use a 4ch and bridge it to get more power, or either run mid bass on rear channels and mid n tweet off front or something like that for a 3way i was gunna wire in some 3&1/2'' coax to my headunits speaker outputs and since my front and rear channels have gains it might blend pritty nice, and just do the 6&1/2 comps and what knot i had my comp set wired active and i was looseing alot of the upper midrange, is this fixable with 3ways? anyways good luck, and what i might end up doing is just makeing my own set of 3ways from partsexpress, but i guess i'll use what i got for now, just need to find some pillars to practice on

lemmie figure this out, i dabble with stuff like this from time to time if ur 2.1 has a rca output for sub then u can use that for the rcas, if ur 5.1 has a speaker terminal like a thing u hook ur speakers to the back of the recever to power the sub with then u can send the signal with speaker wires but i sujest not to do it at the same time, it will work but u will not get as much current flow to the amp and signals can be miss matched if both the 2.1 and 5.1 have rca outputs u cant have both pluged in at the same time due to back feeding and what knot, to get the full output of the amp u will need as much signal as u can get to the amp and it would be best if u had just one thing hooked up at a time you can do it but its not practical and i do not recomend doing the both hooked up to the sub input deal, the way i put will work, and i think the high level inputs are on a seperate circuit from the rcas but im not sure on that tho i just hook up what ever im going to listen to to my powered sub for the time being, i have my recever powering it with rca signal and my stereo threw high level, it works and does nicely, but 2 sets of rcas dont work right hope this makes since and helps out ur question

i can cur a little bit dude wants to know if just running the pos to alt and keeping factory engine/chassis grounds will be sufice for a 1800w amp with a ground from front battery to back and pos imo it can be but make sure ur wire is of size, my grounds going from battery neg to fender was like 14guage or so, and from engine block to chassis was the same, but most cars use 4guage wire for this if electrical demand is needed, like my geo, it had electric everything and my truck didn't, geo 4guage, truck 14guage so a big 3 helped in my truck but didn't do much for the geo as i just did 4guage in it now with ur truck it might not be 4guage but if it is ied just use that for now i really need a new alt for my truck but that will come in due time, but ive seen people run 2krms or so on stock electrical, but most of the time voltage drop is ur big key in if ur gunna smoke ur stuff or not i say hook it up like u want it, tune everything acordingly, then check where ur volume goes and the voltage to see where it drops the most with same song, then play around with ohm load of ur sub to see if that helps with it for now i need to do a ground run in my truck cause my truck has so many weld points im prolly loosing alot of voltage just by that hope this helps, as im still a noob at this stuff but have over 10yrs experence lol

i know, if it did school would be much funner

2 18's in a school bus theres so much potential to be had in this setup, im thinking 4 18's and 2 4k's and a few 4ch's with hella mids n highs, like a mobile disco lol

i had to wire one of the tiny red wires to one of the tiny black wires and a tiny white wire its weird but it works, i really need a potential resistor or something that will have a load on it to power it up and then cut off so it will go to full output, im just glad i got em working lol but ya, after work tommrow i'll dig em out of the closet and take some pics

i got a couple of 900w computer server power supplies i got from school, i wonder if i can mod it to get the full output out of it? there about 3'' thick by prolly 24'' wide and about 14'' deep, has 2 3'' fans on one side, 12v rail is 15amps, 5v rail is 30amps or so, but the problem im haveing is that what i have to do to get it to turn on it changes my 12v rail to 13.8v and my 5v rail to 18.7v, i dunno wtf is wrong with it but it said u have to put a load on the 5v rail to get it to turn on i cant even run a cdplayer off it without it distorting all to shit i think it has like 12guage power leads comeing out of it, if theres any hope in it i can take pics of the innards of it tommrow after work to see if u know how to rectifi it i got a 100w comp pcu power supply that im messing with now, doesn't do much for anything

Are you serious? People have big batteries for reserve so the strain isn't constant on the alternator. If you have a cap, tiny as fuck reserve, what do you think its going to do for the alternator? Nothing. It actually adds more strain since the cap needs to be filled all the time because it will be depleted all the time. Hell just off headunit power, your way of thinking still doesn't works lol. Also, a cap with half capacity will have a voltage of half as well and that accounts for a lot compared to a battery that will still have a voltage within 10% of of say 12volt even half way depleted. Hell to the no the OP can't run his system with the car off just with a cap. How much energy do you think a 25 farad cap holds? No again. If you have a 120 amp alt and a 25 farad cap, how many amps are being pulled from the alt at instantaneous draw? Dude, you obviously don't know anything about the charging system if you think your stinger hasn't taken a shit yet if it can't charge over 10.8 volts. You just contradicted yourself from the beginning. The only good thing about your post is your avatar. some of what u typed is ok but soem of it is invaled, u can run a system with car off and when i had mine in with a cap i ran it about 3hrs one night sometimes full tilt with car off and never had a problem with it, 90% of the times i demoed my system was with the car off, and i still do sometimes i dont think u read the full post befor u started changing stuff around, i said batteries are better, but a cap does work when it needs to, a 25f cap is like a 25hr battery, and those kinda batteries are on a powerwheels car, they work with small amounts of wattage but when ur going with that big of an amp its not really suited, i'll buy the cap off of OP if he wants to sell it, caps have always worked fine for me, but when u look at it a tsunami cap is around $250, u can get a decently large battery for that price, but what a cap is ment for is to take strain off the front battery during playing ur system with car off, i was runing about 700w rms with a 1050ca durlast gold top wit a 1f cap and it did fine yes a cap does put strain on most things but with that much power i dont see how it could hurt if dude was wanting to run it temp befor he gets a battery, imo i cant really tell from doing a big 3 with stock alt as i did with stock 4guage running that much power wit a cap is like putting a condom on a broke dick, it might work for a while but it will hurt u in the end, that cap will work for a 1200w amp or so, that big of one ur trying to run might not like it theres no harm in trying for a little bit, i mean it might work if u wire ur subs as high of an ohm load till u get the electrical to run that amp how to hook up a cap u run the wire from front battery to cap pos, then another wire from cap pos to amp pos, u can wire the caps ground and amp ground to the same spot, people like to move em around but i dont, and the wire u need for ur amp needs to be ran threw the cap to help wit current flow its will work but not as efficient as a battery would, as i stated up there, a cap does what it needs to and thats all

lol, if my posts are to long it gives u enough time to fap befor u post a responce to it but ya, booty ftw!

the reason people dont like caps as they have no resurve supply like a deep cycle battery does, once they get charged they discharge and so on, there constantly pulling and pushing power, one thing i never understood is how they worked with no input and output like a regular cap with ac current, u have a common and then a discharge output, with this u have a pos n and neg, how would it discharge without sending it back the way its drawing power? i had a 1cf stinger cap with 4guage power n ground on a mtx 500d and it worked fine, stock electrical with no big 3, full tilt with headlights on and high beams (my honda has 4 bulbs, 2 35-55w blue halogens, and 2 100w white halogens) and my amp wired to 1ohm and its only stable to 2ohm my voltage never dropped from 14.3v a cap does work, but it dont have enough resurve to keep discharging like a regular battery does, with a battery u can wang on it and it will still put out amperage while charging itself back up, but with a cap, once its discharged it will have to charge back fully to get back its efficency, this is why people spend big money on high amp hr batteries so when they need the power its there, rather than letting it charge like when u buy a cap from a store, it will come with a charge bulb, u hook it up to the neg side of the cap, once the light goes out its charged, and u hook ur wire to it, if u do not do this it will constantly discharge and charge and it can mess up ur battery, i had to get another battery for my geo due to this and with a cap u can run ur system with car off, but its not recomended, i would say do big 3, get a good starter battery and run the cap i honestly dont see why people hate caps as much as they do, would work good to help take the strain off the alt at big amp peaks, and smooth out the voltage drop, i might hook mine back up just to see what it will do to help me, i got a stinger sp800 but it wont charge over 10.8v, i dunno if its hurting me more than helping but i say go ahead and do it, what can it hurt? for free its worth a shot, if not sell it to me for $40 and put the money twards a new battery? lol good luck tho

cool setup im trying to get loud with an extended cab and nere no room for bass lol, on my new setup im going to try and fit 2 15's in a 30'' wide box ported at front but subs will be at an angle to save room, the box i designed was over 8cf and thats way to much lol, the box i had in my truck was around 4cf, 2cf per sub sealed then little boxs on the sides for my 8's and what knot 1 15 in my truck seems to sound louder than my 2 10's i got in there now but i dont know what size box will work best for em did u find port on passanger side the loudest? ive done subs up port up and it sounded like shit on lows, but 1 15 fireing forward into the back of the seat and port on drivers side it flexs everything and pounds the lows these trucks are tricky wit systems but can sound good anyways good video, do the hertz keep up with the bass well? im running polk audio db6500 comps active right now, i have some polk db 651 coax wired up too just for added midrange but i'll unhook em later, i was gunna run them active also, unhook the tweet from the speaker but it would take to much time, might go back to passave

is that much power really needed unless u got alot of speakers to run with it? i was looking at the lower power line of onx and was thinking about getting one of there cheaper ones to help with my active setup ive heard mb quart amps wasn't that loud, more of a moderate volume sq type amp, thats why i dont have one yet i really wish i could fix my hifonics 4406 amp, would do sick on active setup but i dont know who to call or send it to to have it fixed anyways good luck wit ur setup bro

when running active how to u get the mid to blend better with the tweets? mine is either to harsh on the tweets or in the upper midrange im serously thinking about going back to 2way passive, active sounds good on some songs but not all or on my setup it dont mids are from 100htz - 2.5kthz, and tweets from 2.5khtz up does db slopes have anything to do with fine tuning it? cause im thinking about rewireing my rear coax to run active but im gunna switch out the amp i got running my tweets now cause i tried it befor i went active on just my front speakers and it sounded like shit then, ive got a boss 300w amp laying around i can use i think i was thinking about getting rid of my rear coax and run these as a midbass/sub setup in my truck to save on space, prolly give em about 150rms each give or take, would these do good? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_108_Audiobahn-AMD60Q.html

when i done welding at collage a guy brought in some 333 rods and they welded beautiful i got to where i could weld sheet metal with a 6010 but i dont think u can varry the amps and what knot with this like u can a welder tho could u amagine this with the 16v and 18v setups? lol hell u could tig weld with that if u had argon lol but anyways i might try this, maby 8 batteries and bigger wire might help, maby 4 guage or 1/0 but in all reality with that many batteries u could wire in a 5000w power converter and get a small mig welder and just do it that way but ya, 6010, maby 6013 if batteries are good, 6011 splatters to much i think