alaskanzx5

i would say bottom port but add bacing to the face plate.

ive got 2 white strips on my front bumber that i wired to my low beams so that with high beams on they would turn off.

thanks for the advice and yeah im gonna build the box and add the alt and battery at the same time then test it facing every wich way possible in several different positions. i will be testing it after i do the back doors and hatch area with sound deadner. me and a few freinds are gonna spend a day at a local shop that does iasca comps and do all of our amp tuning and hu tuning while messing with the direction and placement of the box. Currently the 2 12"s are in a slot ported obcon box and im gonna test it soon hopefully just need the time. the faceplate of the box is actually coming off. i can hear it slapping the other part of the box at times so i know that box is junk only paid 20 bucks for it though. i can hear/feel a good difference in it compared to when i had the single 12". also forgot to mention im getting a rockford line driver for the sub amp and i already have a rockford 10farad digital cap, i know most people say there worthless but my volts only drop to the the low 12s with it and was in the low 10s with out it.

ok, so i have a rf t1500.1dbcp amp and 2 rf t2 12"s not metered yet but working on it. with just one of the 12s same amp in the slot ported box rockford suggest i did a 143.9. by the time the next comp i want to gain another 1.1 db. i will be adding better batteries big 3 and building a box for the 2 t2 12"s i have now. hopefully adding a ho alt aswell. i do have a box design so for that will have 2 seperate boxes joined together by adding a second layer of .75" mdf to each side of the boxes that will go across both boxes on top bottom back and front. basicaly a single box with 2 chambers and 2 slot ports with 1.5" thik outside walls. the chambers will be a net of 2.0 cuft each with 17.5 of port area per foot at 40 hz. i have 1/0 gauge from front to back and 4gauge to amp 8 gauge to subs. the whole setup will be going into the back of my 2003 ford focus zx5, after the box is made i will get it metered with the the sub and port facing up back and front to see wich is best. the last 2 setups have been better facing back. the hatch door is sound deadend and working on doing the rest of the trunk half the roof is done and the 2 front doors. ( front of car had tons of rattle that annoyed me) will also be trying to get the reat doors and the last half of the roof done before the comp. if anyone has suggestions that would be great and thanks in advance. to buy list mechman 220 amp alt xs d5100 (will be secondary battery) another 1/0 kit for big 3 plus what ever else sound deadner mid range amp rf t400.4 box building meterial

here is a little info on caps, a few posts down and you will find it caps explained

lol, yeah first time build can be tricky. do a google search for a program called google sketchup i just got it and learned how to use it in under 30 mins. there some you tube videos that help with learning how to do it. you use the program to make a 3d model of your box using the cut sheet the torres calc gives you. there is even a tape measure tool on there so that you can measure the end results of the box to make sure it is correct

depends on how you want to put the box together. if you put the baffle on top of the side then you have to add that .75 in thickness from the baffle and back wall taking it from 15.5 to 17.75. its basic box building buddy, is this your first time with it? if so i know there is a lot of people willing to help you on this site

yeah rf is a lil spendy but even just a t500.1bd is a great amp. ive done a 141.1 with 2 t1 10s. you can get one used for 150-175. ive even seen there 1500.1bdcp go for 300 used. also i know a lot of people with yellow tops and a few with red tops. some of them have had there batteries for a good 5 years and there still kicking strong. yeah there is better but it was just a general suggestion. honestly in the end there is no such thing as a budget comp build, if you wanna have the quality and long life span for your equipment you have to fork out the money.

why?

ive got the rockford t1500.1bdcp and it is a nice amp. rated rms at 1 ohm is 1890watts, a beast of an amp. for electrical i have only added an intersate deepcycle battery i got new for $80 and then a rockford 10 farad digital cap i got for $200-250 headlights will dim when all the way up but not bad. i have seen my volts drop down to 12.3 though. that amp will suck power from the car, atleast a single yellow top should be added to that list. wont help much for long periods of loud heavy bass but should work out ok for short periods of metering.

you should see what the manufacture suggests for the tuning, then stay at that or lower. i would go right around 30-34hz. it will be clean and deep.

if they say a min of 1 cuft then you shouldnt go lower.

put as much deadner as you can on it with out blocking it, or remove it lol

i had a single rockford t2 12" in a slot ported box tuned to 40-44hrz and did a 143.9db and it sounded great. real deep and clean. going with 33-35hz on my next box with 2 2 rockford t2 12"s.