EpicenterDesigns

It's all good. Got the pics in the PM, looks ok to me. You guarantee it works? I am interested.

Hello? Paypal ready to go with reply.

And some more info on the comp. Registration for walk ups should start about 10ish I am thinking. And they may be able to register as late as 5 or 6 as long as there are people still wanting to sign up. There will be 4 runs allowed and the 4 runs will be averaged for your final score. The classes will most likely be set-up according to cone size. Still open to suggestions on classes if anyone has any.

The comp may still be going till 8. Unless you get off after that.

Pics and condition??

The Show is being put on by 102.3. Franks Car Stereo is just a sponsor. Justin and I are just sub-contractors for the SPL comp. It if 5 bucks to get in the show. You do NOT have to enter the show for the SPL contest....... The SPL contest will be held outside the show.

Some other info....... $25 if you pre-register (info in the following link) and $35 the day of the show. For prizes and info, see this link...... http://frankcarstereo.com/smf/index.php?topic=28.0

A pretty big show for all those in the area and for those that would like to drive up. http://www.thenewx1023.com/pages/4295583.p...ntentId=3910506 Justin(01xtreme) and I will be running the SPL comp portion of the show. So if you have a stereo and you would like to see what you can do on a meter, or want bragging rites over your buddies, sign up and get real readings. Invite all your friends.

It wasn't all bad info.....but it was lacking a couple important parts. 1st..... There was NO fiberglass used on that pillar. All that was done was some resin and some thin material. There is no strength in that at all and could crack soon. 2nd.... Why the "milkshake"? If he used a bodyfiller to shape the pod to the pillar, just use a little more to smooth it out. Easier to work with and cost less overall. What I would add................ I would have drill alot of holes around the peremeter of the speakers mount. Then once the material was resined and that cured, add 2 layers of 1.5oz mat. (I use 1.5oz...autopart and retail stores sell 3/4oz for reference). Then a layer on the inside of the pillar over the holes to make a mechanical bond to the mat in the front. Aids when fiberglassing to plastics. Saqnd down as smooth as you can, do a layer of Duraglass for shaping, the use a quality bodyfiller (anything by Evercoat will work), to smooth out. The rest was pretty good.

That would be one hell of a service bill once fuel charges were added. MO is a pretty good distance from Bradenton, FL.

What do you mean by "random" exactly? A master certified installer will be doing the alarm should he choose the shop. There is a nice air conditioned waiting room. But I am sure I can show him how it is secure. And for the bit of tape....... 2 rolls of the best vinyl tape I can find. Seriously, soldered and shrink wrapped where applicable. The way to go.

Your gonna have to just make new door panels. From the pic you posted earlier, I think you have a 1st gen s10/blazer?? Realitivly flat door panels in them so making new panels won't be too bad. Your also gonna have to factor in seat sides when the door is closed and also where the dash and the doors meet. I am approximatley 4 hours drive south of you. Bradenton is just south of Tampa. If your looking for someone to make the panels for you, let me know.

Thats the same one I need also. I PM'd him earlier.

PM sent.

What part of FL are you in?

Hmmmm, where to start? All those in the same box/air space will sound like ass. On top of that, 6x9's in the trunk sealed off from the listening compartment are worthless. All the wrinkles in the fabric WILL cause problems for you down the road. Sure, you can overcome the bodywork needed to smooth them out, but the issues will lie in the air pockets they will create when you lay the fiberglass matting over them. It will cause the enclosure to be weak and resonate. I apologize in advance if this sound harsh. But I would re-plan.

Could you throw some pics up of the emblems and explain exactly what the issue is your having?

Grand Am dashes have to be modified to fit correctly. I think he wants more of a drop and play. I have 3 or 4 94-97 bezels headed for the dumpster....interested Big P? Pay shipping and they are yours if you keep that dash style.

I did get the PM..... I am interested. Just don't have any useful info on my laptop. Have to wait till I get my desktop back up. As for gauges.... Autometer to the rescue.

The dash will bolt right in. Same mounting spots. All the other interior pieces will also pop in with a slight mod here ans there. For example, A pillars....... all the s10's have the same basic design, but the 94-97 have a slight sharper edge at the dash than the 98+, but it isn't bad. Also, for the top of the pillars at the headliners, the 94-03 are the same, but in 04, the headliner has a different shape so the pillare has a slightly bigger buldge at the top. Door panels are totally different. If you swap the whole door from cab to cab, no worries. Now for the wiring...... I do not think the 98+ harness will work for the n97 truck, unless your swapping the motor also. Do you NEED a 97 wiring harness? I have the whole wiring harness pulled from my Blazer that I will let go cheap. 97 Blazer 4.3 motor.

I have these pics of them after I did them, but they are not on the truck. I will see if i can get some daytime on the truck pics.

Got pics and a small vid of a set I just did .....

Well, 1" away for the port from the back wall is bad. And reguardless if you feel it has the output or not, that is affecting it, I promise. Also, I too saw alot of air bubbles in the glass, good to hear you fixed them. Another culprit could be the baffle vibrating. How thick is that fiberglass baffle? Might need to add more layers to it.

Looks like the port is too close to the wall. Maybe it is choking and that caused the lack of output you were expecting?

Everyone should be getting emails on the draft. If you don't let me know. If you don't understand what is going on, let me know.