eaglescorpio1

I run hi-energy 5-1/4 components, and they are awesome. Hertz does it right man.

see the mount. That is the ground that runs to the frame. Then run the batt negative to the frame. Does not have to be the same spot of the frame, just the frame.

tell him to ground from the bolt on the alternator bracket. The alternator is directly bolted to the engine. run a ground cable from there to the frame of the car.

if you went from engine block to frame then batt neg to engine block, that means that the electricity has to flow through more metal (more resistance) to get to the batt negative from the ground where the amps are. LOL, unless the amps are grounded to the engine block!!

batt neg to frame

are your subs dual 2 ohm? That sucks that you are limited to 2 ohm amps. Honestly, the zx1500 would push those. I like to have way more power than I need and just tune the amp down, like the zx2500. I would cough up the little extra money for the 2500. Just me though. I would rather take the 2500 just in case 1500 isn't enough.

Ah, cake. Should I bring some ice cream? You all are talking about the sept 13th show correct? in topeka? Footlong, I hope you compete. And not about the competing part, I just want to see the system POUND!!!! You are very ambitious and I can't wait to sit in the ride again!!!

For real, you can get the spl shootout on ebay and they should sell the test tone cd at the comp for 15 bucks. If not, and if I show, I have both and you are welcome to use them potna!! Can't promise that I will be there though. Don't make any of those "p" words anymore. Shite sometimes "f"s up. anywho, check those out, follow the directions in my post above, and check out that link that kingsuv put up, and you should be gravy. And listen to roscoe. Peace

Applejack, here you go. I don't know how many runs they will let you do once you hit the lanes, but I highly recommend using as many runs for burp as possible to experiment with different door and window open/closed configurations. O.k.? Also, you want to run the usac competition cd with sine sweeps and test tones. When they mic your car up, whatever door, window configuration you choose for your first run, have them do a test to see what the highest peak frequency is in your vehicle. run a 20-100hz sweep and they will measure and let you know what frequency has the highest spl. If it is 53, turn to track 53, let them know you are ready, they say go, burp. Let the burp go for 3-5 seconds to make sure the wave fully develops in the vehicle, then track up or down, whichever way the judge recommends. Now, streetbeat, I recommend getting the older usac spl shootout cd. You can find them on ebay for 15.00 shipped or so. The older usac cd's better suit the streetbeat. More constant frequencies per song rather than all this up/down like a sweep. Make sure you know the song you want to play, and have the track set at the specific time you want to start, pause the deck, turn your volume to full tilt. Not all the way up, but full tilt. Unpause, honk the horn(that lets them know to start the mic) and let it roll. Do not turn the music down or off until for sure they are saying stop. Follow this shite and you should do what you can with what you got. Hope you do well, and if I get my new equipment in, I might see you there. I think I still have the pm you sent me with the info. Later mane, Joseph

thanks much man. Just saw that the t3's work in a 1.5 cube enclosure. Trying to contact t3 and see if they will work in the 2.25 before displacement. Will check out the havoc's. Who makes those?

yep, ficaraudio.com

Sent email to him. Thank you very much guys!! Did not mean to come off sounding like an ass if I did, but I hit them up on the site contact and nothing. But back then I just had a question, now I want product. :hairtrick: LOL!! Not quite. Just some q's.

thx so much man!!! I will hit him up. Not urgent, but urgent enough to send an email to a person. I appreciate it man.

that was at least 4 months ago. LOL!!! I vaguely recall a post where someone said to not go through the site contact, but to hit up [email protected]. Don't remember the name that goes where the "?" is.

understood. but the re se's, mx's and xxx's all fit into the enclosure. I don't have any experience with tc or t3 subs, so I am just trying to learn more about the equipment from people with first hand experience, whether owned or just heard the equipment, before I go drop some money. Just trying to be a good shopper.

all good. at least your tryin to look out.

no response when sent an email to site contact. who do I email?

in a 2.25 cube sealed enclosure before displacement?

thx much for the input!! anyone else got any input? even input on the re se's or mx's or xxx's, maybe info on some tc sounds 15's? any input would help. Just tryin to get input before I drop some grip. thx much!!!

I posted a topic about a blown kove. That is in the past now. I have 2 2.25 cube sealed enclosures that I need to fill that are built for 15's. I have an audison vrx 1.500 amplifier that pushes 2000 true clean watts at 1ohm. I need two 15's to fill the enclosures. They need to handle 1000 each daily heavy use, and be able to handle a 2.25 gross cube enclosure each. I am leaning toward the fi q series, personally. Please, if anyone has any input, please notify. I know dc has the level 3's but the only handle "600" continuous. Maybe more, but I know fi q 15's handle 1000 at least with the bp, which I would definately get, for continuous. Please, any info is desired. Thx!!!

I am glad he mentioned that it gave him more output. I don't want anyone to be misled by any info I give.

Don't get me wrong, get as much input as you can. That line driver that footlongsam put a link to would be perfect for you. The six channel one, front, rear and sub rca's are all boosted before they hit the amps. But get more input on the daisy chaining from some of the experts. But that six channel line driver will definately suit your application well.

wow!! That's a trip. Like I said, from what I understood it cleans it up and boosts so the amps gain doesn't need to be set as high. But you got more output from your amp. Sweet!! Thank you for the insight man. For real.

that's cool shite right there!!! I need to learn more about input voltage and how it effects daisy chained amps, but if this would better the signal coming out of the passthru of an amp before going into the next, then I would definately recommend, but I don't know if that would improve the signal between the amps. Good lookin out though sam!!! You always got the links.

ok, I might be a little off here, but once the clean, boosted signal goes into the first amp, you shouldn't need to clean it after that. Think about it like this. Meade daisy chained all the sub amps. Now, logically thinking, if that was not a good idea, I don't think he would do it. I am not sure if every mid/high amp is getting their own high voltage signal, but from what I understand, if it is being simply passed through an amp, even though it wont have as high a voltage as before it hit the first amp, I would think it would still be clean as long as the amps are of good quality. Are you running the sub amp/s off your pass-thru from your mid/high amp? If so, I would personally run 2 seperate rca's(if you are already doing that, cool) and run one line driver to your mid/highs amp, and run another to the first of the sub amps, then daisy chain the rest of the sub amps off the one before it, and set the gains according to the voltage they are each getting. And if I am guiding this person in the wrong direction, someone please stop me and let me know. I don't want to lead someone down the wrong road with this.