kreator_destruction_sodom

epic thread is epic.

im going to the michigan show on may 6th, they are INSANE live. totally worth it.

sounds AMAZING, way better then my old sealed box, i found out my headunit is really ruining my sq, the crossovers in my deck are terrible ( sony cdx-gt200) will try to replace the deck as soon as i can so i can properly set the gain/bass boost and freq on the amp

hehe i cant wait :slayer:

ill probably carpet it or sand it down and paint it flat black in the summer, too busy with college to give a damn on how it looks.. lol up next on the build: big 3 upgrade 0 gauge. pioneer TS- A series 6.5inch fronts and 6x9 rears possibly a new head unit soundproofing all 4 doors and trunk! new battery when the toyota factory one starts showing signs of age

so this is the first ever woofer box that me and my friend assembled, it was a good learning experience, box dimensions were as follows 12inch height 30 inch width 20 inch depth 3.2 cubic feet port specs 3.5inches width 10.5inches height internal port length (21.75") giving me a tuning frequency of 36hz port area per foot = 15.91 inches2 3/4 inch mdf used with wood glue on all joints with pilot-drilled wood screws. then silicone on the inside, Big credit to 412 CVX for helping me out on how to properly design this box . and now the porn . sorry for the monster size pics , first phase just getting the panels all lined up for test fitment walls and port walls are in clamps in this pic are just holding the smaller port wall in place while screws are being drilled in to lock it in place , also woofer cutouts have been measured out so they are spaced apart nice and evenly!. woofer holes cut out, you can see the previous day we decided to put silicone on the joints a bit early , getting ready to put the final piece in!!!, terminal was screwed into place and siliconed, we had to use a dremel to shorten the screws we were using so it wouldnt go all the way through the mdf for the terminal cup. ALL DONE!! now i have to wait until tomorrow evening to put subs in and try my new box out!! btw this will be going in the trunk of a 2009 toyota yaris sedan.. lol powered by a mtx tc3001 mono d amp, both subs are SVC 4 ohm 10inch Kicker COMPs , wired for 2 ohms as the amp puts out 300watts RMS at 2 ohm cant wait to hear some slayer and arch enemy from this new box .

thanks for help joe x!, 412 cvx helped me out and we both came to a design on the box, will post up specs and pics when its done

any links to websites where they explain port area/port length? i understand port area( dont understand how its calculated) , port length i dont understand either. damn if only you took EMT i would have already paid you to design me one going thru torres calculator now to try to figure this all out..

ah cool ,thanks for the advice, if ported sounds better then id do it, i just don't know how big to make the port/where to put it on the box, how to run the baffles on the inside of the box or what freq to tune it at..

sweet, thanks for the advice, lets say i wanted to upgrade to the 10inch kicker compVR or VX in the future , would a 2.5 cubed sealed be enough? (for 2 of them). i wouldnt mind being able to reuse the box ( im on a budget, college student and whatnot. i was lucky to get these subs and amp for cheap anyway )

should i make it smaller? ( the current box is 1.9 cubes) but it was built poorly ( hole for the wires instead of a proper terminal.) 2.5 - 3.5 cubes?

ok so im going with the sealed box, why not give it a shot. heres how i plan on building the box as per kicker spec, from the Kicker Comp manual. my main question is , i double checked the dimensions using torre's box tuning calculator and it gave me something different, torre's box tuning calculator says that front/back (A) panels should be in between the top/down( B ) panels like ( C ) is in the figure above. now i dont know how to build it, should i follow the figure above and build it like that or put the front/back (A) panels in between the top/down ( B ) panels. ??? A

i havent built it yet , i planned to build it tommorow with a friend, all i have done is cut out the panels in those dimensions.

dimensions of the box i want to build width 33 inches height 14 inches depth 20 inches cubic feet = 4.21549 thats how big the new sealed box is supposed to be.

truth be told i dont hear any rattling from my car.. (only some change in the cup holder lol, would it be hard to convert the box to a ported box after i build it as a sealed? , im gonna go to bestbuy/futureshop and try to listen to some metal on ported boxes and see how it sounds, if i really like it ill make a ported box tommorow using the dimensions i posted above. in the event that i do what freq should i tune it at and where should i put the slot on the box?.

yea id rather not push em, i dont have the money to throw in sound proofing insulation and i still want to replace the factory speakers so a stronger amp/subs are not at the top of the list for now

if i plan on getting better subs i will be upgrading amp as well, well ill give this box a shot, worst case scenario it will sound alot worse then the current one and ill switch em back out. and build a ported box, best case scenario it sounds exactly like i want it to and keep it. this is my first system ever so im a bit paranoid to push 500 watts rms to these subs. (i do still have receipt for purchase and the original boxes for em, i got these subs at a discounted price when i went to the local distributor, kicker said i bring in the old blown subs then i can get new ones of the same model for a discounted price.)

well i kinda jumped the gun and had the mdf cut yesterday at home depot ( the guy was cool and didnt charge me anything for the cuts) so i spent about 38$ on the mdf, ill try to build it at the size i made and stuff it and see how it is.. the new dimensions cant go any bigger due to trunk space limitations. all i can do now is trim the panels so the box is smaller( i do have leftover mdf). and i havent heard my type of music on a ported enclosure so im worried about building a ported box..

yep, i will be pilot drilling holes for 2 inch long wood screws and using carpenters glue on the panels where they join, then for interior i will be using clear silicone on the corners ( will let it dry and air out for a few days before i put it to use.. i was under the assumption that if i wanted fast and tight bass ( especially for my death metal, a sealed box would be better?) here is an example of the type of music i listen to ... lol dont freak out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGINLisYN9Y http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3WJX1cIuY4&feature=relmfu http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KDrqC6NjNQ&feature=related along with slayer, megadeth, metallica, motorhead, rammstein , arch enemy

greetings everyone, i currently have 2 10inch Kicker COMP subwoofers, 4ohm SVC 150watts RMS each, hooked up to a MTX TC3001 amp (i wired them in paralell so there would be a 2ohm load on the amp which outputs 300watts rms at 2ohm. i recieved the box and 2 old kicker comps ( one was blown) from my boss as a gift for helping him out with a job errand, the box is of alright quality ( put together using a nail gun, and theres a small hole for the speaker wire to run to the amp, it could have been built better). i listen only to heavy metal/thrash metal, death metal, black metal etc), so alot of double bass drums are put through these subs. below is what i want to do specs of single 10inch Comp (4ohm) Size (IN.,CM) 10, 25.0 Impedance (OHMS) 4 Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)* 300/150 Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m) 86.2 Frequency Response (Hz) 30-500 Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 5-1/16, 12.8 Mounting Cutout (IN.,CM) 9-1/8, 23.1 Min Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 1.0, 28.3 Max Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 2.4, 68 specs of amp RMS Power @ 4 Ω 150 Watts x 1 Channel and <1% THD+N Signal-To-Noise Ratio (1 Watt) 75 dB CEA-2006 Secondary Ratings RMS Power @ 2 Ω 300 Watts x 1 Channel and <1% THD+N THD+Noise (Distortion) (1Watt) <0.25% frequency Response (-3dB) 20Hz-200Hz Maximum Input Signal 5V Maximum Sensitivity 100mV Non-CEA Specifications Max Power 900 Watts Low Level Input x Hi-Level Input w/ Smart Engage Auto Turn-on x Low-Pass Crossover 40Hz-200Hz, 24dB SubSonic Filter 30Hz, 12dB/oct Thunder EQ 0-18dB, Freq. 40Hz Remote Level Control Subwoofer (Parallelable) deck sony cdx -gt 200 http://www.crutchfie...ecs#details-tab dimensions of the current box are as follows. width 29 inches height 11 inches depth 14.5 inche cubic feet : 1.96542 dimensions of the box i want to build width 33 inches height 14 inches depth 20 inches cubic feet = 4.21549 the old box has NO polyfil stuffing in it. the new box will be made of 3/4inch thick MDF, be properly sealed and have polyfil stuffing. The Goal of this whole project im not 100% satisfied with how my subwoofers sound when double bass drums are playing (sound a bit echoey/muddy), kicker recommeneds for a "compact" enclouse a minimum of 0.9 cubic feet per subwoofer, and 2.3 cubic feet for "maximum SQ " per subwoofer". I want the bass to not sound muddy and also hit hard, am i taking the right path building a new and bigger box, or should i make it smaller?, keep in mind i may replace the amp and subwoofers with better 10s such as the kicker compVR or compVX . So what should i do ? thanks for the help!