Mikey Bates

So my question is. I have an American Bass HD 3500. It is 1600rms at 1 ohm, and It doesn't say what it is at 2 Ohms but let's say around 800. Right now with a 2ohm load i see 13.15 volts at full tilt. by going to 1 ohm, will it consume more power creating worse voltage drop, or will it pull the same power, but because there is less resistance the sub gets more power?? I think i worded this correcting haha

it just makes one click sound (cant pinpoint when in the car haha) so maybe it is the starter. . originally there was bet to engine. bat to chassis, bat to alt, and pos of bat to some fuse box. the ones i put back after big 3 are engine to bat and the wierd fuse block one. so im gonna see whihch one it needs (prob the fuse block thing0 and go from there. . . aside the fact. i still notice bad light dimming. id what amp is putting out a 2 ohms (american bass hd 3500) its 1600rms at 1 ohm but its at 2 right now. . . new sub this weekend will be at 1 ohm. will that make it worse?

im not really a box designer but 3.8 cubes? and 30hz tuning? id increase both of them. . . IMO though

every car is different man, even someone with a very similiar setup. a vm take 20 min to put in. run some wires from the bat to in your dash (run with your amps power, and branch off to the dash where you ran your rcas from, and even if its a temp thing and the VM is tucked between your seat or something outta sight, just so you can reference

So i recent got some 1/0 knukoncepts wire, and some tsunami terminals. . . my only problem is after i installed everything, my car wouldnt start. if i hold the old wires on, then it starts. . . should i take off the old wire? (i left them connected and disconnected from battery, but had the 1/0 fromthe exact same spot to the bat so idk whats the problem)

thats sick! can you show the front view of that? and only problem is ill have a big ol box in front of those ):

how about to the box? yes i know its eh but i could put another piece of mdf, with some 1" spacers maybe like 3" at the bottom for slight angle, and mount to that?

theres no room, it would basically be carpet on all sides, and seat over it. maybe ill build a new box in the futre that is taller and say even like 4" short (that would help me with room

exactly!!! but VM are just handy for well when ur not home haha and they look cool

i could mount under seats i think but amp will not breathe at all. and yes back of seat would work but then i can put anything on the seats if they are down. . . i have an amp rack now (cheap thrown together tringle that is 40" wide. is works its just not pretty so, idk, i guess i dont really got the room for a nice nice one noe that i think about it. . box is so damn big!

simply get a volt meter ( i got one $5 on ebay) and watch your voltage. im not sure whats considered the lowest safe safe voltage but prob mid to low 13's is as far as your want it to go (for stable eletrical) see where your at. . . if you can run 10k rms and you never see ur vlts go under 13 you dont need one ( super super exagerated and will never happen) but you get the point. get a volt meter and look at whats happeneing

^ gave what i have in last one (i edited)

how much space should i leave from the port to the trunk door (sub up port back)? given that i leave 6" from back of back to door. i have 7" to the bottom of the seat and like an inch and a half from the top. . . i know thats not much to work with lol at all

car is 99 grand cheroke, and this isnt my actual car but its samw thing lol this first one, the rack will be behind the seats (to the left in the pic) and seats have to be able to go up. . . and i know the angle of the back seat when up is 24 degrees and the length between the tire is 40"

Im in the process of a rebuild (small but hey its big for me) and before the sub and such gets here (last thing) i need some ideas for an amp rack. I have an american bass HD 3500 and an autotek mm75.4. any ideas? pics would be awesome. . . will have a build log when its done because i know hw much people hate a picture a week haha

i havent done a side by side but the new american bass amp i just got, the wire fits in perfect. idk if they are just over sized but either way. this wire is awesome! didnt actualy think you could tie knots with it lol (well you know what i mean)

the 4 gauge wire i have is cadence which is what im refering to, i might just have more shielding, but same wire on the inside. . just figured id ask haha

i just got some 1/0 and 4 gauge knukoncepts ofc wire and i love it! only question is, it seems smaller than average wire. anyone else notice this or am i being retarted

WTB an amp that put out 2k clean at 1 ohm. powering a dc level 4 18 d2. . . budget is 300 shipped let me know what you got, cash in hand

need info. thats like me say i wanna buy a car, pref american. how much power you need? what are you driving?

cca it is, when i do runs to rear batts ill have to think about what i wanna do but prob cca

why is it so much better? and i am trying to keep it near 2 a foot so i was wondering if there are other brands. . .

Doing the big 3 this week, finally, best ive found was knukonceptz KCA cable Blue o black (not sure yet) 1/0 cable at 1.95 a foot, only getting 10 feet, and is 90% aluminum and 10" copper. good?

vs threads are not allowed, and even if they were it depends on car amp music type, goals, box, everything ninja'd!

well ill ask this. what is a good port area per foot? i heard 14 is low, and 16-18 is good? yeah no