doeboy99

take a multimeter and test the postive output stud on the alternator. IF its 13.5+ your alternator is fine.

lol no trunk space at all haha

if your worried about corrosion just get the tinned copper wire that they use in marine wire setups... no chance of corrosion in there unlike all the tiny strands that OFC cable has.

200 for a HO alternator isnt enough for a quality alternator. Your probably looking at double that to have it done. Thou that would be for a 200amp or higher unit. If your looking for under that im sure it will be cheaper but not by a lot.

Perhaps if the batteries are of the same chemistry all that will happen is the higher sitting volt battery will charge the lower until they reach an equilibrium. If the difference between the two is say .1 or .2 I really dont see how that could destroy the life of a battery. Thou if you had a 12 volt battery and a 16 volt I could see the life of both being compromised.

As far as the makup of most batteries I sure as hell know what goes in them(first hand) I just don't know about the wet cell's since the plant stopped making those. Stop being a smart ass and if you have nothing worthwhile to add then just shut up.

Unless they are draining them down with the quickness to the point where you can't start the car I dont see how half a volt is going to cut a batteries life down massively with as much punishment as a true car audiophile puts on them as long as he puts a good charge to them a la driving around for more than a few minutes I really don't see how a battery is just going to get damaged n have a reduced life span/. If anything you would more likely get a damaged worn out battery from the heat of the summer then it dies in the winter when you try to crank.

This post has soo many assumptions running in it. I can tell you that the dry-cell and agm batteries are basically the same inside. This is from actually working in the plant that manuf. most of the dry cell batteries for a variety of companies. Ford,gm,chrysler,walmart,sams club, advanced auto, interstate.. etc. I been thinking about runnign this interstate megatron up front and this yellowtop optima in the back myself. The same type of battery I always chalked up to urban myth. I am not sure about wet cell vs dry cell. The optima is a dry cell agm battery and the interstate is also a dry cell battery. I always thought what would happen is they would drop down to the lowest resting voltage of the battery whatever that is.. so if one is 12.9 and the other 12.5 the one would feed on the other till the two were the same voltage. Could be totally wrong thou.

holy crap somebody is preparing for a competition

Gah.. I was hoping you could beat the $550 price of a competitor. I think I am going to slap on some nice fat big 3 wires and see if that helps out.

I would only need like 200 amps at most for this alternator. Surely that is possible? I know its a small unit and there isnt much wiggle room and I got a quote from somebody else, but I wanted to check on a Mechman unit since I was so happy with the last one I had.

I only haev 120 amps or so to deal with on this car and I know its not enough. Are there any options for this engine? Its certainly not a large case at all like the last mechman alt I got for my volvo 740. That was years ago and I heard about mechman from turbobricks.com. I thought there might be some kind of solution that could be offered to me by mechman for this sebring. Let me know. I have an a/d/s pq20 amplifier and a rockford 750 so about 1200 watts or so rms maybe at most.