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About aN-i-No

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  1. Well damn then...looks like it may be the pressure. I wonder if the speaker playing under its on motor force will be enough to overcome that. I would hook it up test it out.
  2. Probably not from pressure seeing as how all these guys doing 155+db aren't having the same problem. Are you SURE your crossovers are set correctly? Maybe you set it to low pass instead of high? EDIT: I just noticed how big awesome as fuck your setup is. But still I would check the crossovers.
  3. LMAO hell no. A box with a square hole is leaky as fuck. Now a box with a PORT, (a port and a hole are NOT the same thing) has to be calculated to work correctly. Port area (the surface area of the port opening) and port length (the length of the "tunnel" you could say) make a port what it is. If you don't have enough port area the box will choke your sub and be inefficient. Too much port area and the box won't have much control over the sub and (once again) it will be inefficient. If you don't have the ports in the right PLACE (for example, if it's too close to the sub) then it won't work right either. Enclosure size mostly has to do with mechanical power handling vs efficiency. A bigger box will be louder, but the sub will move more. If it's WAY too big, the sub won't be able to pressurize all the space and it won't be loud at all. A smaller box will be quieter but it will better control the sub's movement. Too small a box and the sub will be choked and not be very loud. Everything is a compromise. You balance and calculate until the box fits your needs. EDIT: Hmmm...that was a lot shorter than it looked on my phone lol
  4. Once again...every song is different, you just admitted that. I know what my subs sound like when I need to turn them down, I don't need a device to tell me that. I know that some of my songs are way louder than others...I don't need a device to tell me that. I know how to take care of my system, I don't need a device to do it for me. Anyway, my point is, no device will set your gain perfectly....the best tools you have are your ears, eyes and hands. Your ears will tell you when something is audibly stressed. Your eyes will tell you when something is mechanically stressed. Your hands will tell you when something is thermally stressed. If you blow something up, 99% of the time it's because you missed or ignored the warning signs. Things don't blow for no reason. No device is required to have a nice system lol.
  5. Lol whut. Unless you drive around playing test tones then you should absolutely tune it with music...people were setting gains for decades with their ears. Did they all do it wrong? Every song is different. That means if you your amp to a -5db test tone and you play a song that's recorded at -2db...you get distortion. It also means that if you play a song that's recorded at -7db then you're not as loud as you could be. But guess what? What if some parts of a song are louder than others? Oh shit right? No. You turn the system down if the driver seems stressed. There is no magic, perfect way to set a gain. Not even a DD-1.
  6. Well....you could try 150's first and move up if you blow them... Or you could say fuck that and go ahead and get the 200's. The extra 20 amps won't hurt anything at all. EDIT: Blue font lawl
  7. If the fuse ever did blow it would only stop the alternator from charging the battery through the added wire. (Like if you did the big 3, the blown fuse would stop the alternator from charging though your big 3 power wire.) The wire would still be live on both sides though (alternator charging one side, battery hooked up to the other side) and the alternator would still be charging the battery through the stock power wire, unless you've removed it. So there's not a WHOLE lot that a fuse can do in that situation. It makes some people sleep easier at night though
  8. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhxxanH_xU0 That low note is ~29hz Not my vid. My SA-12's play down to ~26 before I start to lose output.
  9. Lol....you holdin in some issues bro?
  10. I have a brand new set of VIBE Audio SPACE3D midrange+Tweet setup (THERE IS NO 6.5 INCLUDED IN THIS SET. ONLY THE MIDRANGE AND TWEETER ARE INCLUDED) that I was going to use, but I'm changing vehicles so it won't work. I only tested both sides to make sure they work and they both do. I paid 89.99 and you can have them for $65 plus shipping to your door. I bought them from http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31677_VIBE-Audio-SPACE-3D.html. I also have a pair of Rockford Fosgate T1692 6x9's. There were under the back seats of my car and were only used for a few shows that I went to. I took them out after barely using them for two months and they've been sitting ever since. One grill has a dent and two spots where the paint flaked off because I dropped it (just the grill, not one of the speakers). They look, smell, and perform as brand new. Ill let them go for 75+ shipping. Here is all the info http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19509_Rockford-Fosgate-Power-T1692.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=11771181&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1 PIC OF THE DENTED/SCRATCHED GRILL If you want something PM me! I may be able to go a little lower considering I'm not using any of this stuff. Thanks for looking!
  11. I was gonna say a dab of JB weld and a screw. Let it cure and pull it out.
  12. For the rookies. If you see one amp with a bass boost knob and another amp without one, then most people would get the one with the bass boost knob. Now you say, that's such a small group of people that would pick an amp that way, but Sundown (or ANY Car Audio company for that matter) can't really afford to give away any part of their market. It'd be silly to do so. They need every sale they can get. That applies for everybody in the business.
  13. Do you have $$$? Are you willing to spend days upon days testing with a meter? Do you want to drive the car every day? Do you have $$$? How much $$$? Do you have?
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