Sean Sinha

Most of them will do rated at 14.4V. Hifonics doesn't give a birth sheet with any of their amps, I don't believe, but these particular models typically can do rated, or damn close to it, at 14.4V.

Oh, different amps can have different sound signatures, for sure. S/N Ratio is a factor, as are THD and other factors.

If by weak, you mean they do more than their rated power and don't overheat, I have to agree. Or, are you expecting a four channel amp to drive your subwoofers, or something? no i mean weak as in they are awful amps. You're the first person I've had hate on those Pioneer GM Digital amps. For the money, what four channel amps are better? I mean, it sounds better than my ZX350.4, which costs more. Find me a $200 amp that can outperform it, I am interested. I also need it to be as small as the Pioneer and class D. Thanks! no need to find one, the mb quart would be better and its cheaper... get over it this amp is terrible. i never bad talk products but im sorry, this one is just plain awful MB Quart is a Maxxsonics amp and I had one two generations go. There is no way the MB Quart outperforms the Pioneer. Seeing as how I've had both, I speak from experience.

In reality, he should get speakers that shine either way. I think Infinity will fit the bill and run well without an amp and when he gets an amp, they'll truly shine. Alpine Type E and Type S components are very nice for the money.

You said your HPF was set to 80. If you have your HPF set to 80 and your LPF on an amp set to 80, that's not right. Set your HPF to 120 and your LPF to 80. You can do either. You can either disable the HPF/LPF setting on your HU and have your amps do it all, or you can set it by your HU and turn the crossovers on your amps off. This is especially helpful if you don't have test tones to set your crossovers on the amp correctly. To test, I'd disable the crossover on your amps and set your HPF to 120 on the HU and your LPF to 80 on the HU. See if this cleans up your speakers.

You said your HPF was set to 80. If you have your HPF set to 80 and your LPF on an amp set to 80, that's not right. Set your HPF to 120 and your LPF to 80.

Set your HPF to 120 and your LPF to 80. See if that clears up the mids at all.

Believe it or not, those Sony's might be struggling with 80Hz, try 120HZ.

True. Infinity sound good w/head unit power and don't require much power to sound clean. Only problem is that you soon find Infinity lacks on the low end and require a subwoofer for accurate bass, but the mids and highs are sweet.

This is the Clarion I am talking about. Sweet little amp designed by Robert Zeff: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22642_Clarion-XH5410.html

If by weak, you mean they do more than their rated power and don't overheat, I have to agree. Or, are you expecting a four channel amp to drive your subwoofers, or something? no i mean weak as in they are awful amps. You're the first person I've had hate on those Pioneer GM Digital amps. For the money, what four channel amps are better? I mean, it sounds better than my ZX350.4, which costs more. Find me a $200 amp that can outperform it, I am interested. I also need it to be as small as the Pioneer and class D. Thanks!

If by weak, you mean they do more than their rated power and don't overheat, I have to agree. Or, are you expecting a four channel amp to drive your subwoofers, or something?

I also like the Clarion Class D 4-Channel that was designed by Zapco's founder. They are around $260-270 at Sonic, I believe. Only problem is they have a fan and I run my amp under my seat, so there'd be a constant hum, so I went with the Pioneer. By the way, the Pioneer was run at 90% deck volume for about two hours on a 90 degree day and was just a bit warm to the touch. It never distorted.

That might be a diagnostic mode. Not sure. See if the manual says a blinking power light means anything.

LOL. Thats gotta hurt. Not really. I got an amp that has local warranty support and is brand new, rather than some unwarranted, used amp from somebody I don't know, that I'll have to wait a week for.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22382_Pioneer-GM-D9500F.html Yeah, local shop will match Sonic, but not refurbished stuff on eBay.

So, I just moved from a Hifonics ZRX600.4 amp which was donated to me to power my Infinity 6030CS components and Infinity 6x9's to the Pioneer GMD-9500. This amp is amazing. It is so much clearer and runs cool. I just thought I'd recommend these amps to anybody looking for them. My local shop, Stereo Town in Fremont, let me get it for $200 out the door. For $200, I doubt there is a better amp out there. Also, even though it's Class D, I have WAY LESS noticeable white noise than I did with my Hifonics, which is an A/B. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series

How many places do you really think manufacture amps?

They are a Maxxsonics-manufactured amp. For they money, they aren't bad. I personally stay away from Maxxsonics stuff, but if you find it for a good deal, I think it'll work just fine. If I am not mistaken, it's a cousin of the Hifonics Brutus series. It's got good reviews @ Sonic and should do near-rated power.

If you can fit the dual 12" version it's the same price at sonic, if not the the dual 10" is very good and takes up less space, Just what ever you pick don't get something in a prefab unless it's a mainfactorys prefab box My amp is only 4 OHM stable when bridged and Sonic only has the 2 OHM final impedence prefabs, that I saw. Don't want to buy a prefab just to hack it open and rewire it. Can I run two channels to the individual inputs on the sub? IE, two positve and negative going to each terminal?

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_29596_Kicker_DC124.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison Was going to go with this. Any objections/better choices in the price range?

I have a wagon. I have the space for 2x 15" if I want, but power is a concern. 160 AMP alternator with the Big 3 done with 0 Gauge Bullz (Just fine for short runs, didn't feel like spending 3x the money on cables for 2-3 feet runs. The cable going from the fuse to the rear is a Stinger 0 gauge, since that is a longer run. I like the suggestion for a 15", as I do have the room. While my cables can handle the load, I am using a 300W rated Amp, so I will be limited to a single sub rated for 300-400 RMS. The Amp actually rates to 330 bridged @ 14.4V, which my car constantly outputs. My current enclosure uses 1" thick MDF and is sealed. It sounds good, but I definitely need more power. The Type E is a pretty weak subwoofer. While it is 250 RMS, it doesn't have the response or deepest throw.

I have a Kicker DX300.2 that I got for $100 from a local shop. Right now, I have a Type E 12" in a sealed 1" enclosure. I want a bit more power. Which sub would you recommend?

The 2012 Hifonics amps are pretty solid for the money. If you're looking for something inexpensive to drive a single sub bridged, I think it will do just fine. I've got a Zeus powering some Type R's and it's been solid and puts out rated without issue.