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Everything posted by Riley Evan Houser
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I would like to sell Skyrim, Fallout 3, Fallout New Vegas, and Bioshock 2. Email if interested, can send pictures that way. [email protected] All in very good condition
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Huh? Would lock washers help? I know this because my dad is a mechanic. Back when they built ALL the mobile homes and what not they used alluminum..a much cheaper method than copper. The problem was that nothing set, alluminum won't set. Lock washer would probably help, but just to be safe I'd check them every so often
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You should perform the big 3, that might be just enough to stop it from cutting out :/ otherwise you should look into wiring a battery in the trunk. that will at least keep the voltage up long enough and not drain your car (unless you play full tilt everywhere you go) The ONLY problem with adding an extra battery is adding more strain to the alternator..but the safest bet is to do the Big 3
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I'd definitely look into running some 0 gauge from your alternator + to battery + and from you battery - to engine block ground and also from battery - to chassis. Will improve your current flow and will take off whatever strain that is on your alternator and maybe you could even keep the same amp. Before anything I'd look into doing the Big 3
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Okay, just making sure I know where you're at. At 1 ohm that amp puts out 900 rms, also 2 ohms.. If you want to save some pennies but still get a quality product, go to www.SonicElectronix.com same thing as Crutchfield but you'll save a SHITLOAD more money, I'd get an amp that can push 800-1000 rms, not a cheap one though.. Lanzar, Pyle, etc.. It's always better to spend a little bit more money to get that product that is guarenteed to be better and last much much longer and run much more efficiently
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Okay, what I'm saying about the whole parallel thing is.. Since they are dual voice coils and 4 ohms a voice coils each sub as a whole is 8 ohms. So take speaker wire from one positive to the next on the same sub, and out of one positive into the amp positive. Do the same with the negatives. Then internally in the amp they are being wired in parallel also, basically if you can get down to 1 ohm that's what you want. Do you get what I mean man?
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120 amps that fairly solid for a decent system like which you have. Here's what I would do man, wire the coils in parallel so then each sub is 2 ohm then run them into the amp and they will be paralleled again down to 1 ohm. Give me one minute and I will look into an amp for you Also, what's your budget so I have a better idea man
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Hmmm.. You could pop the hood and look directly on your alternator and sometimes it actually just says how many amps it is..sometimes not. Generally, stock is usually 105 amps.. GENERALLY, sometimes less, sometimes more. For instance, my 1992 Buick Regal is 105, my dad's 04 Grand Prix GT is 125, and my 04 Pontiac Bonneville is 140 (because I have air ride suspension) So I'm gonna guess and say yours would be 125 or 105 because you said you lights have possibly dimmed before.. In my Buick I ran a 1200 watt Concept amp and a 480 Jensen amp..but at RMS output it was around 1000 and they dimmed a little when the bass really hit. You have dual 4 ohms, did you have them wired in parallel or anything of the sort?
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Nope, I have a Kenwood KDC X395, Alpine Spr 69 and Spr 60s. Jl Audio JX 360/4 amp for those.. Just never really payed much attention to the tweeters in the door 'Size of the tweeters? Not sure what size man I THINK they are 3/4, but not completey sure Reason I ask because if you want maintain stock housing for the new tweets you will need to either get the matching size or mod them. You can look for some good 1" silk dome tweets. What kind of power are you looking for and whats your budget? I honestly have no clue man..like I said I've never had any previous experience with them.. Wouldn't even know where to start.. Don't want to blow the bank with most expensive stuff on the market..but I would also want something fairly good
