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agent_orange

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    the colony, tx

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  1. I haven't ordered it quite yet but yes I'm going to get the D4.
  2. I would love to have a MX, but the funds I have to spend on car audio right now just will not allow it
  3. The amp im using is a Crystal Mobilesound CAD 600.2T the specs are: 150x2 @ 4ohm 300x2 @ 2ohm 600x2 @ 1ohm 1200x1 @ 2ohm bridged I thought about running the amp at 1ohm bridged but I haven't heard any one else doin this so I don't know if it will handle a 1ohm bridged load. I did really want to try out the new DC subs they look nice and the group buy has awsome prices but I don't really want to damage my amp. I would like to run two subs as well but with my trunk space I have it really isn't possible, my car is just a little two seater roadster with a pretty small trunk.
  4. I was going to get in on the group buy for a level 4 12", but they only come in dual 2ohm which is no good for me. Thanks for the replies. The Q and the SX were the ones I was really intersted in but I belive i'm going to go ahead and order me a SX this evening. Thanks for all the help
  5. I'm looking for a new sub to replace my 12" CVR, it's time for something louder. I've been researching subs for the past couple of months and still cannot make up my mind. I'm looking for a sub that will get loud and still sound pretty good, it will be going into a small trunk car. The only requirments that I need is for it to be a 12", can take around 1200rms daily, can be wired into a 2ohm final impedance, and no more than $300. some of the subs I've been looking at are: FI - BL,Q RE - SX Soundstream - SPLX,T4/5 American Bass - VFL Atomic - APX What would you choose? or is there any other suggestions. I don't have a problem buying of EBAY or even used if I could find a deal on something. Please help.
  6. VW is suppose to be making something like this in Europe. Here is the article but it dosen't have much information. http://www.popsci.com/popsci/automotivetec...ecbccdrcrd.html
  7. The problem is I bought it a couple of years ago and one of the channels didn't work. So i took the cover off to try and repair it and took off the metal bar that holds down the (i'm not sure what there called but the things that dissapate heat onto the heatsink). When I went to power the amp back up i didn't get the rubber mat that goes under the metal bar in good and the thing instantly started smoking. The mat got fried and I temp. fixed it and tried powering it up again and it just pops the fuse evertime.
  8. I've got a kicker zr 360, just like the one here http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Kicker_ZR360/ It's been sitting in my garage for over a year collecting dust because it needs to be repaired. It just blows the fuses whenever power is hooked up to it. There is a local shop that will fix it pretty cheap around $40, but is it worth fixing? anyone ever use one?
  9. I've never been able to find it on Home depot's website. The stuff is call Protect-O-Wrap at my Home depot and alot of people refer to it as peel-and-seel. It's located in the roofing section next to the gutters. It has a silver back and is a black asphault based rubber. If you can't find it at home depot lowes carries it as well.
  10. chode69 is right, its called a slaps 18 Symmetrical Loading Audio Passive System (SLAPS)
  11. Is this the show in Burleson, Do you happen to know where exactly its being held at? Thanks.
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