TaylorFade
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Posts posted by TaylorFade
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11,515w
Daddy needs a voltmeter
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Cool test. I tested that amp January 2014.
My one little thing I will nitpick is you need to test multi channel amps with *all channels driven*.
My loads are odd numbers, but just for an example, I got 150w @ 5 ohms with one channel driven but that number dropped to 115wpc with all channels driven.
But thanks for the vid. Keep up the good work.
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Playing with the box tune calculator, its hard to get the tuning that low when close to 40sqin port area.
No kidding. Try it with a small box sub like the Ethos. My port was literally as voluminous as the net airspace.
Nature of the beast.
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I can't see their box/cut sheet or whatever, but I know that woofer like 2.25-2.5cf. So their recommendation is correct and I assume the cut sheet is off.
Build to to 2.25-2.5cf net @ 28-30hz.
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Probe it with a DMM and see if you're getting voltage.
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Are you trying to probe the pins in the amp or using the adapters?
Just jab a piece of speaker wire in there the way it would normally be if you need to.
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Post a pic of what you're working with
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Fine - I'll email sundown and ask. I'm an engineer and enjoy detailed design and optimization. You guys should work on your welcome of people new to the board
This is where engineering and implementation differ. It's highly unlikely that you (or I, or many) have the woodworking skills to get the enclosure to the hundredths of a cubic foot. As such... those of us who have a few enclosures under our belt usually leave a little fudge factor or "close enough".
Your question was answered- hence why I felt it appropriate to be facetious. I always see people give box specs to the thousandths. Like... "My box is 3.457 cubic feet tuned to 31.567946733642478574576hz."
I find that humorous.
Good luck with your build and welcome to the forum. Let us know how it turns out.
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Don't forget the sawdust residue and any glue beads and maybe a booger that got wiped on the wall. Also add up the total of all the fingerprints left on the wood.
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Morally.... I think it's bullshit. It's flat out misleading the uninformed consumer and tricking them into buying it.
The whole "good for the money" thing is suspect too. Is it good for the money? Chances are that an amp with an inflated rating isn't going to be a quality piece of gear. So yeah... you get 1,000w for $100, but for how long? And with what sort of efficiency?
Say you spend $100 on a "4,000w" amp that only does 1k. On the surface it seems like it's a good buy. BUT.. the thing is 40% efficient and drawing 2k worth of current. Your lights dim and now you buy another bullshit marketing piece- a cap. Now you're out $100 for the amp and $100 for the cap (or whatever those things cost) and your electrical is still lacking. You're straining your alt and digging an early grave for it. You're chuggin along in the 11's and now since the amp is low quality, it pops. So, what do you do? Repair it for $150? Nope, it goes in the garbage and you buy another one. $100+$100+$100... now you're $300 deep and still only have a crap 1k and subpar electrical. The new amp is still killing your factory 90A alt and it finally dies. Now you're stranded on the side of the road and hopefully didn't burn up anything on the car in the process. Hopefully you have roadside assistance, but if not... you have to pay for a tow. That's 150 bucks. Add another 150 bucks for a new factory alt. Now you're $600 in for a crap 1k and subpar electrical. But now you have a lifetime warranty on your AutoZone reman alt so that's good. You're back on the road and back wangin. But since you're the kind of guy who buys a "4,000w" amp for 100 bucks... you got the Install Bay "4awg" CCA kit and the grossly oversized fuse. It melts and you need a new fuse holder. Chalk up another 20 bucks. You figure it's good to go now and just wang out. You didn't spring for a dash mount voltmeter so you have no idea you're in the 10's when you're demo'ing and that melted fuse holder starts a fire under the hood because your 150A fuse is allowing way too much current for the crappy 8awg aluminum wire. Your car burns down and you call your insurance to file a claim. You tell them what happened and the insurance adjuster is a car audio guy and denies your claim because he knows you overfused subpar electrical with crap wire running a crap, inefficient amp.
You spent $620 and lost a car... but at least the amp was "good for the money".
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I see this is an older post but I just started reading up on the caps. I want to run some but un sure how to properly charge them for the first time. I know it has to be slow cause of the amp draw. Anyone got info on this?
My cheapo walmart charger will charge them from zero. Some nicer chargers won't.
I just put them on trickle and let it eat.
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As long as the DieHard is an AGM, you're good.
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Brandon Buck's from Audio Anarchy
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Did you find that cutting or is it on the edge?
Oh... it was definitely found cutting. Lol.
My table saw is mad, mad.
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What'choo know about that special stone infused SPL wood, yo?
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Congrats!
In lieu of a cigar, you can ship AD-1 to
TaylorFade
Give me my shit lane
The swamp, LA.
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There are two major teams in the Baton Rouge/New Orleans area.
Team Tantric and Team South.
Pick your side. Because it's a fight to the death.
At least... it feels like it sometimes. Lol
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Amp Test Tuesday - Rockford Fosgate T2500.1 BDCP - GUESS THE POWER! Score $50! SCORE THE AMP! (Video RESULTS IN! Page 14)
in Amp Test Tuesday - Results from the SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno
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