TaylorFade

16,120

So. Incredibly. Gay.

Crap

11,515w Daddy needs a voltmeter

Cool test. I tested that amp January 2014. My one little thing I will nitpick is you need to test multi channel amps with *all channels driven*. My loads are odd numbers, but just for an example, I got 150w @ 5 ohms with one channel driven but that number dropped to 115wpc with all channels driven. But thanks for the vid. Keep up the good work.

No kidding. Try it with a small box sub like the Ethos. My port was literally as voluminous as the net airspace. Nature of the beast.

I can't see their box/cut sheet or whatever, but I know that woofer like 2.25-2.5cf. So their recommendation is correct and I assume the cut sheet is off. Build to to 2.25-2.5cf net @ 28-30hz.

Probe it with a DMM and see if you're getting voltage.

Are you trying to probe the pins in the amp or using the adapters? Just jab a piece of speaker wire in there the way it would normally be if you need to.

Post a pic of what you're working with

This is where engineering and implementation differ. It's highly unlikely that you (or I, or many) have the woodworking skills to get the enclosure to the hundredths of a cubic foot. As such... those of us who have a few enclosures under our belt usually leave a little fudge factor or "close enough". Your question was answered- hence why I felt it appropriate to be facetious. I always see people give box specs to the thousandths. Like... "My box is 3.457 cubic feet tuned to 31.567946733642478574576hz." I find that humorous. Good luck with your build and welcome to the forum. Let us know how it turns out.

Don't forget the sawdust residue and any glue beads and maybe a booger that got wiped on the wall. Also add up the total of all the fingerprints left on the wood.

Morally.... I think it's bullshit. It's flat out misleading the uninformed consumer and tricking them into buying it. The whole "good for the money" thing is suspect too. Is it good for the money? Chances are that an amp with an inflated rating isn't going to be a quality piece of gear. So yeah... you get 1,000w for $100, but for how long? And with what sort of efficiency? Say you spend $100 on a "4,000w" amp that only does 1k. On the surface it seems like it's a good buy. BUT.. the thing is 40% efficient and drawing 2k worth of current. Your lights dim and now you buy another bullshit marketing piece- a cap. Now you're out $100 for the amp and $100 for the cap (or whatever those things cost) and your electrical is still lacking. You're straining your alt and digging an early grave for it. You're chuggin along in the 11's and now since the amp is low quality, it pops. So, what do you do? Repair it for $150? Nope, it goes in the garbage and you buy another one. $100+$100+$100... now you're $300 deep and still only have a crap 1k and subpar electrical. The new amp is still killing your factory 90A alt and it finally dies. Now you're stranded on the side of the road and hopefully didn't burn up anything on the car in the process. Hopefully you have roadside assistance, but if not... you have to pay for a tow. That's 150 bucks. Add another 150 bucks for a new factory alt. Now you're $600 in for a crap 1k and subpar electrical. But now you have a lifetime warranty on your AutoZone reman alt so that's good. You're back on the road and back wangin. But since you're the kind of guy who buys a "4,000w" amp for 100 bucks... you got the Install Bay "4awg" CCA kit and the grossly oversized fuse. It melts and you need a new fuse holder. Chalk up another 20 bucks. You figure it's good to go now and just wang out. You didn't spring for a dash mount voltmeter so you have no idea you're in the 10's when you're demo'ing and that melted fuse holder starts a fire under the hood because your 150A fuse is allowing way too much current for the crappy 8awg aluminum wire. Your car burns down and you call your insurance to file a claim. You tell them what happened and the insurance adjuster is a car audio guy and denies your claim because he knows you overfused subpar electrical with crap wire running a crap, inefficient amp. You spent $620 and lost a car... but at least the amp was "good for the money".

My cheapo walmart charger will charge them from zero. Some nicer chargers won't. I just put them on trickle and let it eat.

As long as the DieHard is an AGM, you're good.

Congrats! In lieu of a cigar, you can ship AD-1 to TaylorFade Give me my shit lane The swamp, LA.

PAC or Axxess

There are two major teams in the Baton Rouge/New Orleans area. Team Tantric and Team South. Pick your side. Because it's a fight to the death. At least... it feels like it sometimes. Lol

LIES!!!!!!!

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/191378-batts-vs-caps-lets-test-it/

Also, just in case anyone is wondering how a single bank would compare to a G31 battery in a sane, real world scenario. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/191378-batts-vs-caps-lets-test-it/

For the less experienced user or those who feel they're not "team" material... my suggestion is to wait for the Module. I don't know exactly what it will be, but I am sure it's going to be a "box" of bussed up caps with two terminals like a battery that's ready to roll. No fuss, no muss, more mounting options, safer installs, etc. I can tell you from experience that modules are much easier to deal with and make for a cleaner and safer install. All the convenience of a battery- all the benefits of caps. Worth the premium to me.

This write up was done for the Maxwell's, but everything still applies as I assume Scottie's are just as awesome. There's been a lot of talk about supercaps on here lately. There is a ton of confusion and a lot of questions about them. I thought I'd share what I know and let other discuss them here. First, and let me just get this out of the way... caps store electricity on plates. Batteries produce electricity through a chemical reaction. Caps use different plates, one with a positive charge (loses electrons) and one with a negative (gains electrons). The greater the difference in the charge (usually through the size of the plates), the greater potential for energy discharge. A great example of the way caps work and the potential energy (and the biggest one) is lightning. Where the earth is one plate and the clouds are the other. What are they? The ones everyone is using are either Maxwell 2.5v (black) or 2.7v (blue) single cell capacitors. You have to series them to achieve our operating voltages. When you series, you gain operating voltage. A bank of (6) 2.5v series to 15v. A bank of (7) of the black ones is 17.5v. A bank of (6) of the 2.7v blue ones is 16.2v. Now, when you series, you gain voltage, but you lose capacity. These supercaps have a retarded amount of capacity. Even the largest "car audio" capacitors are 20 farads and I've seen maybe 50F. Each one of the supercaps is either 2,600 farads (black ones) or 3,000F. Yes... three thousand farads. That's a lot of juice. But like I said, putting them into series'd banks, you lose capacity. Double the voltage, halve the capacity. So a bank of (6) 2.5v/2,600F caps is 15v/433F. That's still a ton. (6) 2.7v/3,000F is 16.2v/500F. A bank of (7) of the 2.5v ones gets you 17.5v but you lose capacity down to 370F. Recap... (6) 2.5v/2,600F = 15v/433F (7) 2.5v/2,600F = 17.5v/371F (6) 2.7v/3,000F = 16.2v/500F (7) 2.7v/3,000F = 18.9v/428F What makes these different than "regular" caps? Well, besides the insane amount of capacity, the ESR is a big deal here. ESR is basically internal resistance. The best and lowest ESR of a traditional cap I've seen is 0.017ohms. What's that mean? Well, if you apply 100A to something with a 0.017ohm resistance, you will get a 1.7v drop. That's not good. Triple that amperage and you get triple the resistance. 0.017 X 300A = 5.1v drop. Yikes. The max ESR of a Maxwell super cap (also known as an UltraCap or BoostCap) is .29 milliohms. That's 0.00029. Yeah... that's awesome. It's also why they charge and discharge so damn fast. A "Joule" is a watt-second. 1 Joule can produce 1 watt for 1 second. The formula for determining the total joules stored in a capacitor is very simple. We take one half the cap value in farads and multiply it times the squared charge voltage. So, let's say we have a bank of (6) black ones. That's 15v/433F. 433/2 = 216.5 15x15 = 225 216.5x225 = 48,712.5 joules. That's 48,000 watts for 1 second. Wow. or 24,000w for 2 seconds. And so on. Now, that doesn't take into account our operating voltage of >10v or so. If you take that into account, it's more like 6,000-8,000 joules. But that's still a lot. And that's just a single bank. Caps for burps. Freaking awesome. Highly recommed. And in my testing, each bank is good for ~ 2.5-3kw to stay above 13v or so on a 3 sec burp. More banks, more capacity, lower voltage drop. Caps plus batts for burps. Testing shows very little to no gain on burps with caps+batts. On 12v. I have seen someone gain by using caps+batts on a 16v system, but that may be an isolated case. Caps + batts for daily. Awesome. Highly recommend if your electrical is up to snuff or close already. Great addition to batts. A word on safety... These things will mess you up. They charge and discharge at a rate you will not be accustomed to. If they are charged, they will stay charged. And as we've talked about, that's a lot of f'n juice chillin. And it will bite you in the ass. You also DO NOT want to hook these up to a batt when they are not near the battery's resting voltage. They will try to draw sooooo much out of the batt at an alarming rate that it's basically like dead shorting your battery and you will weld that terminal to whatever it's touching. Also... DO NOT OVERCHARGE THESE THINGS!! I can not stress that enough. Bad things can and will happen. Blue ones. 2.7v, 3,000 farads. Black ones. 2.5v, 2,600 farads. My banks. And feel free to share pics of yours. These are (7) cap, 17.5v banks

You're not at 1 ohm nominal with (3) D2's. Maybe 1.33? Even that on stock electrical has got to be killing you. The short answer is... yes. Losing a sub will hurt your output. All things being equal- to the tune of ~ 1db. BUT... all things won't be equal. You could potentially wire to .5 now and rebuild and be louder than you were before.

What? It's still double digits. I'm good