caraudionoob

Thanks for the replies. Since I bought the batteries from Amazon itself (sold by Amazon LLC) , I contacted them and referred them to this thread. They decided to refund me in full and allow me to keep both batteries as well. Since the batteries have 60% state of health for D3400 and the 70% state of health for D3100. Is there any harm using them? It will be hooked up in parallel for 12v. I plan on purchasing another D3400 from either down4shop or soundsolutionaudio to supplement the missing capacity.

So I'm back with an update. As you stated, The posts/terminals were in bad shape, HOWEVER, I don't think it made that big of a difference. Here are the pictures. The first 2 tests are from the D3100 and the second 2 tests are with the D3400. The D3100 is reporting about 860/870 CCA out of 1250 CCA (the ratio is the same with CA test) or about 70% health. The D3400 is reporting about 500/540 CCA out of 900 CCA (the ratio is the same with CA test) or about ~55% health. Any ideas?

Hey audiofanaticz, thanks for the input. I love learning about this stuff so I appreciate you for not only taking the time to answer my question but also explaining it as well. I will definitely do as you advised and post back with results on both the D3400 and D3100 this time as well.

I purchased one D3400 and D3100 from Amazon, brand new, sold by the seller Amazon as well. Received it in great shipping condition, checked the resting voltage ~12.8/12.9 threw it on a NOCO Genius GENPRO10X1 charger to have it topped up. Then used my battery testers (TOPDON AB101 and Konnwei KW208) on it. To my surprise, it reported FAIL - REPLACE on both testers and on both the D3400 and D3100. I used the CCA test and the CA test and both failed; it reported about half the rated CCA and CA. I ran it a couple more times over the past couple days and same result. My Dad got a brand new Odyssey Group 34 for his truck so I pulled out my same testers and both testers reported PASS at 100%. So my question is: Did i receive two bad new batteries from Amazon? I attached some pictures from the Group 34 test. Anyone have any ideas?

Just got the B-Stock Damplifier Pro - 30SqFt with the spooky10 discount. Hopefully this will kill the ridiculous rattling in my car. Thank for heads up and the coupon!

Thanks for all your help. I had some trouble deciding but you made it easier for me. I'll be going for the single baffle, but will do the all 45s for some reinforcement. I also have another question, but the topic is totally unrelated. As I mentioned, I have a Camry with JBL integration. I am using the factory speakers but want to add aftermarket speakers using a 4-channel amp and my only option is to use high-level input to get a signal to the channels of amp. The problem is that the speaker is not a single 2-way speaker, but they are component set. I can only get the signal from one speaker, either the tweeter or woofer, to one channel, like this, so the channel can only pay highs (if I got the input from the tweeter) or lows (if I got the input from the woofer). How can I get a full frequency signal to a channel when they are separated like that? Is it possible to just take both positives and both negatives (from the tweeter and woofer) and wire it to the one channel? I know this question is out there so I may have to repost this in the amp forum; I was just wondering if you knew.

This is the tutorial for Torres' Calculator. It's very good; it also shows you how to draw it in Sketchup. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/145174-ported-box-design-a-tutorial-updated-630/

Ok let me answer some of those: 1) Answered. 2) Not necessarily, also remember that the bigger the port the shorter the compression chamber becomes for a given volume. 3) It may provide a little better support like suggested but you can assemble it the way you want as long as is physically the same. Check your Torres to have # of common walls set to 3 and number of extra to 1 and all the rest, your result is low. on the double baffle, do it or not IMO yes but you can disagree and do a single baffle. Thanks for answering my questions (and quickly too). It really helps since I plan on building it this weekend. I checked Torres and I got the same number as the screenshot above. Would you (or any one else) mind answering my other two questions? I guess you missed it before. "Basically, is your box design (the sturdier, more air flow box) worth the 0.5 cubic feet lost in volume? Again, I'm new to this so I'm just going by RE Audio's 4.0 cubic feet for "optimal", but since I can't have that big of a box, I just figured, the closer to 4, the better. Am I wrong on this? Also, are the 45s in the other three corners not necessary? It doesn't show it in your picture."

Ahh, so that's what baffle is. I didn't know what that meant in Torres' calculator. Thanks for answering. @ Joe X. Did you use Torres' calculator to design that box? I couldn't get the volume to match up. It came up to be 3.08 cubic feet when I did it: Basically, is your box design (the sturdier, more air flow box) worth the 0.5 cubic feet lost in volume? Again, I'm new to this so I'm just going by RE Audio's 4.0 cubic feet for "optimal", but since I can't have that big of a box, I just figured, the closer to 4, the better. Am I wrong on this? Also, are the 45s in the other three corners not necessary?

Thank you for your suggestion, Joe X. I have a couple of questions about your design. 1. What is the advantage of the double front? Won't that cut internal volume? 2. Does increasing port width and length make it sound better? 3. Is it better to cut the top and bottom as you designed (28 x 19 1/4), or can the top/bottom be the base (28 x 21 1/2)? Thanks for your all help. Looking forward to more advice!

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, I am restricted to those dimensions (21.5D x 16.5H x 28W). I was wondering if, restricted by those dimensions, this is the best box I can build. I will be driving the sub with a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D. I listen to a variety of genres, but mostly rock, metal, dubstep, pop, and instrumentals. Thank you for the warm welcome. I have a '09 Camry Hybrid (with the JBL system) with stock alternator; battery is a DieHard Platinum. I plan on doing the Big 3 upgrade. I have a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D and plan on running about 900watts to the sub. I also have the Boss NX3000.4 and will be running about 150watts to each channel. Thanks for the advice with the 45s.

Hey, everyone. I'm new to car audio and I hate to read so can you design a box for my RE Audio SXX15? Let's try that again... I'm new to car audio but I love to learn, so I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum. I have a RE Audio SXX15 and this is the box that I plan on building for it. This is the first box that I am building, so any tips is greatly appreciated.