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ehall8702

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Posts posted by ehall8702

  1. Yeah was going to go bigger volume also, get your point tho be too long to get down where I want to be tuned at. Just gonna leave it alone till I have sum extra wood and just try sum other shit out. Gonna go with 2.5 cubes and an 8" I think, haven't sat down and messed with specific numbers yet.

  2. Personally I've never liked the soft line setups, they just don't look as mechanical like I like. If you are gonna try your hand at custom bent solid tubing get a few extra sticks and a bend kit...takes ALOT of patients. My first few unused compression fittings vs bends. Have done a few with fittings just bc I like the way it looks. Biggest tip is make sure you are all copper or using a good coolant that works with dissimilar metals or you get to do it again when the coolant turns to mud and destroys all your blocks. Ask me how I know! This is one of my last builds

     

     

     This is the one that taught me about dissimilar metals and wrong coolant can do. Turned sludge grey and ruined EVERYTHING in the loop. Tho did look friggin awesome!

     

     

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  3. I've used his calculator over a dozen times , with great results. I wasnt saying it would be different per tuning. But you as well as I know manufacturers recommendations are not always the most optimal, just useable. Like a xfl 12 wants to be in 2 cubes with 1000rms, but after half a dozen boxes , it sounded the best in 2.5 cubes with WAAY more port area than recommended.  Just trying to narrow this down a bit instead of having to build so many boxes to find what works best. As far as port area I'm asking how much is too much? Manufacturer wants 30ish, triticums calculator says 55 is optimal, just wondering how bad 78 would be just bc I have a few lengths of sonotube sitting here.

  4. have sum 10" sonotube sitting here and rather would use it vs buy more stuff. Have a Avatar stu 1246 going to be powered by a JP23 v2 @ .5 ohms. The sub specs want just under 2 cubes and wants 30in port area at 35hz. i want to be tuned lower, like 31,32 hz, just like the lower music, just a preference. Triticums port calculator says optimal is 55in port area at 31 and 2 cubes with 3k power. Ive read a lot of guy running bigger boxes with these with great results. wondering about 2.25 - 2.5 cubes and sonotube ( i build slots alot but wanna try a round port this time around). 10 sonotube gives me 78.50 cuin port area , is this too much port area ? Will i lose cone control and bottom out at this power level? If that is too much i will end up having to buy a big ass port, then the question is what size? Think 8" is 50 cuiin buut never been real sure on how to measure an aero port properly, would i better with 2 6" aeros? 

  5. First impression of the STU is , damn! Louder and more authority than the XR it replaced, to be fair it's a dual 1 ohm vs the XR dual 2 ohm, so another 500ish watts prolly. Still real stiff so I only expect to get louder and deeper. @Joe X, as far as xmax I believe it's 28mm each way, just holding a tape up to side with it playing I can see peak of surround coming out over an 3/4" past where it rests, I know it's not accurate measurement but it REALLY MOVES .  Will try and get sum video when my new phone gets here, using a backup phone with garbage camera.

  6. 10 hours ago, Joe X said:

    That calculator usually fails on the safe side giving you a load of port area (some of which you probably don't need) so I am sure it will be fine.

     

    The sub is peaky and the bigger than suggested box will help with that so if you are leaning on SPL side you will probably like it .

    Yeah just need bottom end, I have almost 2k to the doors and they play with authority down to 75ish hz, so just need sum knock when I want it... Appreciate your time replying, will video results.

  7. Going in a 2.25 cube tuned at 32hz ( after sub displacement and bracing , was built for an IA DP r6 12) port area was whatever triticums port calculator suggested for slot port at that volume at 2k rms. Hopefully doesn't choke it out too much. Always had good luck with trits calculator, sucks last dozen times I've went to use it it's all fudged up. Always at least one cell can't be modified . This is also my first dealing with deaf bonce stuff, it's unique enuff im aure i can move it down the road if i don't like it .

    On 11/15/2023 at 2:33 AM, Joe X said:

    Don't get me wrong, not saying it will not meet your expectations is just that they list the parameters incomplete and lie about Xmax so that it gives better impression that what is worth,, don't like companies doing that, awesome products never lie or hide stuff from the customer.

     

    Anyways let us know how you liked it when you have it running, the suggested box is 2 cubic feet new tuned to 32 and a port area of 31 square inches (low imo).

     

  8. So ive built a few hundred enclosures in the last 27 years of installing, never have i attempted a 4th order. Just casually reading , my newest sub ( avatar stu 12) seems to be a good canadite for this. Havent looked yet but thinj the qts of my xr 12 is .4 which if i understand right may be a good one to. try also. Ive read 2:1 ratio anf the hell woth ratio also. I wouldnt mind trying something musical for my XR i could put in my wifes yukon tonreplace the old 3xl in a belva prefab (tuned to like mid 40s), i can hardly tell qhen she turns the bass knob up! She needs more ummph and i wamma try building something different at the same time. Always been a solid slot port guy just nc they do thier job and have thier own structural support built in. 

    Questions are 

    1 will the XR d2 be a good sub to start with

    2 would the STU 12 d1 be better

    3 what is ideal port area and sealed to ported ratio 

     

     

  9. Oh you are right, i have bought 2 of my old 15s back, they are in the closet, need to build a box still. Im just not willing to give up any more room in my truck than a single 12 takes up, its a simple as that. Ive tried ti talk myself into it so many times but a single 12 leaves enuff room for one person and groceries still in the back seat. No way of stuffing anything under the rear seat, well nothing substancial atleast. Im very aware of the difference a 15 will make just cant give up the room. Poor old XR getting beat on, juat now looking for something that will take more power so im not right on the edge of clipping all the time. Ended up ordering a dual 1 ohm STU, will see wtf itll do, if im not happy im sure i can move it down the road pretty easily.

  10. Finally replacing my beat up AB XR, lower spider came apart from VC like 2 weeks after buying them, ebay refunded me for both and told me to "dispose" of the 2nd one, so i cut lower spider out and let her eat. Can def tell ypu the XR spunds ALOT deeper without the lower spider. She gets stinky after a couple good songs tho. Thats at 1 ohm on the jp23( rated 2300 rms @1)  now im eyeing another sub, reading great things about the STU , with 3k rms and dual 1 ohm, im sure the jp @.5 will come near the subs rated. Have a 2.25 cube, 32hz tuned slot port with quite a bit of port area ( was built for a death penalty r6 12 ) uses triticums port calculator but cant remember how much port area tho, been over a year ago i built it.

    Anyone vouch fornthe STU? At $300 brand new cant beat it spec for spec of anything else i can find, just always felt better with a pole vent but watched some torture testing if these and the apocalypse stuff and kinda impressed me.

  11. 13 hours ago, bmwking said:

    when using a DD1 on a 4 channel amp you want to hook the positive lead to the positive of channel 1 and the negative to the negative terminal of channel 2, effectively bridging the 2 channels to the DD1, that way you won't have a disparity between them, itll allow you to set them both equally to your max clean volume.

     

    as far as the other equipment you're running (maestro, dsr1) I don't have any experience with those, hopefully someone who does can chime in

    So now I can retune my nvx jad, thanks lol. I only used left channel on front mids and then left channel on front highs. Only used the left input RCA also, unplugged the right altogether , guess I figured headunit was putting out linear output. On a good note, tuning by ear my max volume in my hu was 33, and after using my dd1 it's 36 and got to turn my gains up quite a bit more! Made me have to commit to running my second run of power wire to the md8k tho, can't hold volts with gain set properly, so had to turn gain back down till second run is done. 

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  12. 4 hours ago, bmwking said:

    i've found when setting at the amp it makes it easier to put the DD1 leads in the speaker outputs and actually tighten the output terminals down to hold the leads in place.  just my $0.02  that frees up your hands to adjust gain and volume on the HU without losing your output

    Yep, first time using my dd1 took me about 3 fumbles trying to hold em in place before I put em in amp and tighten it down slightly.

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  13. On 10/28/2007 at 10:04 PM, westvan_dude said:

    Run into a bit of difficulty.... installing an Autotek MM4000.1D amplifier in my super duty pickup. Going 2/0 gauge from the battery to behind the back seat close to the amplifier. The amp takes twin #2 gauge positive inputs and has twin #2 gauge gnd connections.

    I've looked around for distribution blocks that take 2/0 input but also have 2/0 output. Can't seem to find any. Any suggestions?

    Otherwise I'm just going to terminate all cables in copper eyes and run a bolt through them all. Kinda ugly though. :unsure:

    Try these, cheap and do the job, use any size in/out you want too

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/171420622015

     

    I used two of em look decent and work well.

  14. Man, I didn't see this post here till after I saw the notification for emfs reply video about trolling Steve. Dudes outclassed by a long shot lol. I have been using an oscilloscope for almost 20 years , up till about 3 years ago I have had a nice old school radio shack oscope amd it has treated me well, I got a cheapie since I moved to upper MI and I hardly did more than install aftwarket head units and door speakers I couldn't justify a couple hundred bucks on a new one for that . I used my cheapie on my current setup and have toasted a few sets of tweeters and have adjusted gains down to compensate. Needles to say the cheapies r just that , cheap garbage. I will be saving a few bucks and getting atleast a dd-1 for future use! Would love to have the full setup but will settle with the basic but most important in my opinion dd-1 first.

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  15. Those things r screaming, was looking at those before I bought my pioneer pros, I think they have to be very similar speakers , u can hear mine a LONG ways away and they still sound good doing it, my last pro audio setups were crazy loud but not smooth at all...these get real loud and have enuff smoothness that u can listen to em all day too. My main reason for buying the pioneers over everything else was they play down to 70hz unlike the rest that are around 120hz.

     

     I know it looks like i recorded it with a potato , but it's clear asf and only 250 watts to each door , through a infinity reference xover ( toasted my reference components ). Saving for a dsp and gonna go active soon. 

     

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