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ehall8702

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    239
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About ehall8702

  • Rank
    125db
  • Birthday 12/07/1980

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    erik6061

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    alpha, mi
  • Interests
    Audio,Cars,Tattoos,Bikes,Electronics

Recent Profile Visitors

2420 profile views
  1. Here in upper Michigan the rust swells between the outer shiny casing and the lug nut and sometimes even the 1/2 sizes don't fit. End up beating a socket on and replacing the lug nuts . Toyota steel lug nuts kinda mushroom at the small end of the taper after getting old also. I buy the solid lug nuts from dorman and every set I have sold and installed have been good for many years after that. We have extreme conditions up here so if it works here it'll work anywhere else twice as long I'm sure
  2. Subs, it's a pain in the ass to post a pic or I'd show ya what screws I'm using, but they are about the same as backer screws ( double thread design) but with a flat edge that touches the basket of the speaker. Never had a problem with em before, but my baffle is only 1" usually it's 1.5" so I'd figure that's my issue. For door speakers I use Phillips panhead self tappers. I'm going to try plywood rings behind and some glue inside the holes. If that doesn't work I will be refacing the box with plywood I guess.
  3. I am using big flat headed metal screws, have used them many times in the past with no issues but a problem now. Going to make plywood rings for the back and use some ca glue in the holes also. Thanks for the good feedback and advice guys!
  4. Exactly what title says. What options are out there to keep the speaker mounting screws from backing out? Used course and fine thread drywall screws used bigger medium thread screws and I literally can watch the screws back themselves out while I have volume up high . Thought about t nuts and loctite but wanna see what other options I have.
  5. I'm after the same thing, have 4 hds2.108s , didn't have patients to start an underseat box yet, but ended up with 4 cubes ( 3 net, port almost 1) that sits ON the seat cause I couldn't wait . Curios to see if u get good results because that's my next battle. My truck is a 97 tho but similar size
  6. Where can I find specs and buying options? I googled it and came up with some forum links but nothing for buying any or any real specs
  7. Have a budget of around $150, need louder mids and highs. I currently have infinity reference 6.5" components powered by a ppi ice1000.4 ([email protected], [email protected], and [email protected]). Currently have 2 channels to components and 2 channels to reference 4" in rear locations. Going to hook rears to deck to free up 2 more channels. I don't want to fry my infinitys by bridging the amp to power them though. At some point in the future I want to add kick panels and a second set of components up front. I was looking at some massive fc6 but haven't looked too hard. I don't need full on sq, but the infinitys can't keep up with my 4 hds2.108s on 3k that aren't even broke in yet and amp gain as low as it gets, going to be worse when I dial amp in and they are broken in. I had pro audio ( active 3 way on 600 watts) and it was stupid loud but could never eq it down in the mid range to make it sound good with most music . I know it's a hard issue to solve, can't have both loud and sound good usually. I'm not sure if I want to go active as of yet, rather stick to passive untill I find a good dsp or get a new headunit that has a network mode.
  8. Amp still isn't tuned, have to change mounting screws to T locks or something better, the speakers keep backing the mounting screws out!
  9. I tell ya if triticum gives ya advice , definantly take it. Dude knows his shit! My 4 8s are so violent it's almost unbelievable. I think I actually broke part of my cab on my truck and they aren't even broken in yet.
  10. Man, built the box Tonite, got it just sitting and amp gain full as low as it gets and this setup straight gets the fuck down! That not tune on amp yet and volume under half! I cannot wait to get em broke in and dial the amp in. Will get sum pics and video tomorrow. I haven't put my rear seat in yet so box is laying on my passenger seat still but I have to take box out and rhino line it still, just wanted to see what it was gonna do. I now have full belief in ur port area calculator and will be using it for all my future enclosures!
  11. I'm debating on new batteries for my truck. I have a 97 GMC Sierra with 2 battery trays. Right now I have 2 interstate deep cycles and two small no name sealed batteries. Dual runs shca 1/0 over sized, big 4 with double runs on EVERYTHING. About 3500rms , 160a alt ( yeah I know, need something bigger, saving still). I wanna eliminate the two small sealed batteries behind my rear seat in the truck just because its cramped as it is. I have a bout a $200 budget which I know isn't much . Found some smaller batteries like a kenetic hc-600, I could afford 4 of them, two in each battery trays and all in parallel, would that be better than maybe a single stinger ssb2000 and then buy a second one when I save a few more bucks? I'm not set at all on a brand/size battery just throwing examples out there as it would seem 4 in parallel would be better than 2 in parallel.
  12. man I have absolutely no idea how to use winisd, totally baffles me lol
  13. that's about the best I can come up with. that's 53 wx16hx13d outside dimensions. port is so big im actually under my desired net volume. And triticum , I very much value your opinion and knowledge, everything I read that you have said makes sense and you back it up with facts so if you so something will work ima go for it. also my amp puts out 1200 @2 ohms and 3k @.5 ohms so if I just have to I can wire up to 2 ohms . I don't want to not use all my amp, especially after impedance rise, ill be using only like a 1/4 of its full power. I have 58" total width if I port either front or up, if less than 58 I can port side and use a straight port without a turn in it.
  14. I was attempting to get 3.25 net since the subs displacement is .06 each. Slot port of 13x 4 (I think since I'm not at my computer ) will let me get long enuff to get down to 34hz with ,again I think, 65 sqin port area. That's giving each sub .75 cubes .
  15. I mean port velocity numbers not dbs! Like what program are you using that is givin you that Information . I don't see that on Torres so I'm assuming you are using different modeling software? And I can't seem to make port area much bigger than about mid 60s before I can't get it to tune lower like 39 either , will post some Torres pages when I get back to my computer, didn't save em on my phone
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