703autosport

Iv got better ones with her on my comp

dont know why you cant see the pics, everyone else can... maybe something with your comp? Iv got more pics of it and other builds Iv done at at www.myspace.com/josecandelas Iv drawn up a few ideas that ill post up when I get back, ill scan them so you guys can tell me what you think.. one is a blow through. I was thinking the same around 7-10

that would be a good trade... depends on how long I would get her for lol.

Thanks, the front has dropped spindles and springs with the airride for the rear

The custom body shop I work with built this truck... Custom 2004-2008 Harley Davidson F-350, I did the audio&video, acc. wiring, along with the rear airride suspension. Now the trucks Interior has been changed over to the 08 Harley Interior and the truck has been sold. The new owner put a hard shell top on the bed and Im going to be adding double actuators to the top so it'll be motorized and now he wants me to come up with some ideas for the bed. All he's told me is that he doesnt want any real expensive equipment so that the majority of the money can be put into the build itself. He wants 4 12's a "couple" component sets or 6x9's a "big" plasmariht in the front or middle, so Im guessing 42-48" as well as a few smaller tvs. I wanted to see if anyone on here can give some ideas of what you would do givin all the space and if your in the biz what a job this size goes for ballpark wise... Iv done my share of fiberglassing show cars and trunks but I was working for shops . Now I work for myself and Iv never done the bed of a truck before? Here are some pics Shotoshoot for Street Styles Magazine Custom Badges New Interior Old Interior with the custom box and 15" monitor I did I like to do some inserts, incorporate the harley theme into it... maybe have some sections painted with others wraped, Im open to any advice or thoughts as I want to make it stand out and thats hard to do these days

I wasnt intentionally taking advantage of him, I told him that it was too much pressure for what he had... I also mentioned getting a new pressure switch to him but he was impatiant and wanted it finished for the weekend so I offered him the trade. He made the desision on his own to trade for mine and they were also in mint condition just lower psi. I dont take advantage of customers, I actually just quit from my shop on monday because of how the owner screwed over and took advantage of so many people

you can check out more of the stang here http://www.cardomain.com/id/1trikgt I still have the pics from my old set-up on there. The subs did drop a little to 1.8-1.9 but Im about to go through the wiring now to check everything

not yet... I want to meter it firing forward first then Ill turn it around to see if its louder

It took me a while since I just changed jobs but here are a few pics

I finished the system a felast week and Im hoping to meter it later today but I have a question about the ohm load... I wired it up as I was told and it was sitting at 2.11 ohms instead of 1.33 like it should, a buddy of mine said that it would drop after 20-30 hours of playing time since the subs are new. Well it still hasnt dropped at all and my xtant only puts out 500 watts at 2 ohms, It needs closer to 1ohm to put out the 1000... any advice?

IV had six rockford p2 8's sitting brand new in my room for 6 months so Iv decided to build something for a sound comp that me and my shops owner are going to enter this weekend. the box Im going to build today(time permitting at work) has three separate chambers at 1.54 cu ft each with a pair of 8's per chamber ported. The enclosure is going where my backseat was in my 95 mustang Gt powered by my Xtant 1001DX with the subs firing up and the three 4x13" ports firing forward tuned to about 40-45hz. Do you think this will get decently loud even though its hard to do in a stang? One other question I have is iv anyone can help me with the wiring on my subs to get them as close to 1 ohm as possible, their all dual 4 ohm subs but I cant figure out hoe to wire them up... thanks for any help Jose

older pic but these are my ruff racing 18x8.5 front and 18x10 rears off ebay for $750 2 1/2" lip on the front and a 3 or 3 1/2" rear lip... I like them but Im moving up to a set of custom 20x10 front and 20x11 rear as soon as I get my widebody done

Some customer came into the shop the other day with a train horn install... he put the kit together himself using triple horns and a 3/8" valve that can hold bursts of 150psi. He also bought a viair 2gal tank that can hold 150 psi but got dual viair 380's which are 200psi comps. and a 200 psi switch. I told him that it was overkill since he couldnt use the full potential of the comps and he ended up trading me for my two used 350's... So now I have his two brand new chrome 380's and an extra 50psi to play with!

wasnt able to upload them last night but Ill try today when I get the chance

If anyones interested I can add a few photos tonight of what Iv done so far on this build

Im building the trunk of a customers show car that we already did the interior of and Im going to use the new version mojo 15 that comes out on the 15th and a memphis 1.5k amp... The sub is going to be glassed into the floor using the spare tire well and above it for airspace. Iv already calculated that I have 4 cuft, maybe a little more if needed to play with and I want this thing to pound as mush as an all glass enclosure can! What are your suggestions on tunning the port to make it the loudest. A memphis tech told me with 4cu ft and 3- 4" ports 17" long would tune it to 40hz and be pretty loud. Thanks for any input Jose

I doubt your going to find any decent quality amps locally with the power your looking for at a good price. Thats what makes the internet so popular, they cut out the middle man. If you have any warranty problems from a shop they are gunna do the same thing as if you get an amp online...send it back to the manufacturer. You'll save alot if you get a warrantied amp online instead, just my opinion though.

Iv been wanting to start up my own build thread on here but I havnt had the time yet... Im at work right now but you can check out a few pics that I have on my cardomain page if you want at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2451542/2

Yea, you can check out the topic here if you want http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/4/17336.html

Iv been installing car audio for about 8 years but Iv never competed in any sound competitions till this last weekend. I mic'd a 142.2 at 39hz legal using a term-pro in my first round of qualifying playing syn waves but since Im working on my door panels at home and couldnt finish them in time I was put into the extreme 2 class, luckily I was the only one so I took first. I also did a sorry 132 in bracket bass race in qualifying(i was trying to stay in the 120's but lack of experience prevailed) but the cops shut us down before eliminations, so I took home a third place trophy. Check out my set-up below and let me know if you think I did allright for a rookie commpetitor. 1995 Ford Mustang GT Alpine w-200 Xtant 1001dx 2 Xtant x2 1244 subs 2.5 cu ft per sub ported at 32hz and glassed into rear seat area 2 Optima Yellow Tops 240 amp Iraggi Alternator 1/0 ga wire Big Three Im also pretty sure that Ill gain a few db's once I finish my current project; 200 sq ft of fatmat, bracing for box, and possible system expansion...

Hey Steve or Phill, I have a few questions for either of you. I just finished bagging my first car... my 95 mustang gt. Im running just a front and back kit untill I can buy 4 more valves and another compressor. For now I have firestone bags (bolted to cups), a viair 350cc compressor(150psi), 7 gallon tank, 3/8 lines, and parker valves (the valves had a problem so a friend of mine let me use his for now while he repairs mine) and Im gunna be getting Digital Dakota's guage and electronic airride control system. Does this sound like a decent set-up for a first timer? My other question is that when I dump the front and back the car only drops about another inch or so lower than it was with my eiback sportline springs... Is there a way that I can get it to drop lower? or is that as low as Im gunna get it? Im willing to fab up some fender wells to allow for the drop and customize anything else that needs it but I would like to be able to lay the body as close to the floor as I can or at least tuck my 18" tires and some rim.

I run two xtant x2 12"s off an xtant 1001dx, tuned to 34hz. Sounds good but if I build another one Ill probally tune it to 30-32.

Yea iv came to realize that with this car... nothing has been easy on it but once Im done with it, it'll all be worth the headaches.

I forgot to mention that they never welded anything... the front and back bags are bolted to the cups and the cups are sitting were the factory springs were. I took pics that Ill put up once I get home from work today

Another set-back... left work early yesterday so I could get the bags put in. We got them installed and all the leaks sealed up then turned on the compressor to fill it up and the air went directly to the bags instead of the valves holding the pressure, the shop owner had gone home by then and I was working with one of his employees... He thinks that the valve seals or gaskets are blown. When we got the comp. to 130psi the car was all the way up, also we could dump air in the front and back but only the back raises... the front valve just clicks. So by 1am I had to go so I was forced to leave my car there so they could figure out what the hell the problem is and fix it! I wasnt about to leave with the car and drive it locked up like it was.