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Found 18 results

  1. wondering if anyone knows of a fuse holder that accepts 2 1/0 in and 2 1/0 out???? and where to get cheap fuse holders for 1/0 I wouldn't mind having the mounting as ring terminals my current set up uses them im just putting another run of 1/0 so I need to upgrade
  2. I have a stock battery up front in the engine compartment and a CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL in the back. I will eventually replace the stock alternator with a high output alternator either mechman or dc power but which ever one would be about 250A max; idling around 180-200A. I was planning on running one run of 1/0 from the battery up front to the battery in the back (+ to + and - to -). But after doing some looking and reading around, I feel like I'm on the edge of the 1/0 amperage capacity. Or am I reading the chart or thinking about this all wrong? The length of the run will be somewhere between 12'-20'. I know, it is a big range, but I'm trying to play it safe by overestimating. QUESTION: Am I safe with the one run of 1/0 or should I have another positive to positive 1/0 wire or also a wire from the back battery negative to the chassis also or one 2/0 wire, or what? I want to hear everyone's thoughts and suggestions! Oh, and what size of fuses (2 of them; one close to each battery, right?) should I get for the positive wire?
  3. 1/0 CCI ROYALE EXCELENE WELDING CABLE seen a couple people like yu-kong use this kind of wire for his install and i might as well pick some up myself, great deal, $2.48 a foot http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/57.htm Any thoughts on this? True wire gauge, etc
  4. Showing how to run wire through a vehicles cab from the battery to the trunk with no drilling holes in the firewall. Be sure to subscribe.
  5. So I'm not building anything crazy...yet...but I thought I'd start a build log anyways. I've got a 2003 Explorer Sport and have done some stuff here and there to it. 20% tint, PlastiDipped the stock wheels, 3" lift shackles, 6000k HIDs all around, RF speakers all around, Pioneer h/u Back in high school I had a RF 15" P3 and a 1000w crunch amp. It was a decent start and sounded really nice for my first system. Had to buy a grill for it because I was constantly throwing crap in the back THE UPCOMING SETUP: FI BL18 SoundQubed Q1-2200D All new wiring 7 cube Ported Box @ 33hz 50 sq/ft of FatMat Big 3
  6. I've been looking at some brands of 1/0 wire but I'm a little hesitant which to go with. I've heard that welding wire is less flexible but costs less than OFC "car audio" wire, so what can you guys say from personal experience?
  7. i don't think so. please read the rules.
  8. ALL PRICES ARE OBO!!! SERIOUSLY MAKE AN OFFER BECAUSE I WANT THIS STUFF SOLD!!! ALL PRICES ARE SHIPPED!!! *****DUE TO MANY PEOPLE WANTING ME TO HOLD THINGS FOR THEM AND SINCE THERE ARE MULTIPLE PEOPLE FOR THE SAME ITEM IM GONNA HAVE TO ASK FOR A SMALL NON-REFUNDABLE DEPOSIT JUST TO PROVE YOU ARE SERIOUS ON THE ITEM. THE DEPOSIT WILL BE COUNTED AS PAYMENT! I DON'T HAVE A PROBLEM HOLDING ANYTHING OR MAKING SOME TYPE OF PAYMENT PLAN!***** Thank you for understanding! Decided to make a list to make this a little more organized and easier to read Just going in order of the pics: AA Chaos 10" D1 800 rms 3'' coil: $225 shipped for the BNIB; $150 shipped for the one making mechanical noise ~ SOLD!!! Knu 300 amp Fuse: $5 ~ SOLD!!! German 3/8 Round over bit: $20 ~ SOLD!!! Tsunami 8 gauge, 2 5' strands: $5 for both Monster Cable 4 gauge: $1.00 a foot Length: 2' 6", 2' 4", 3' 3", 4' 11", 4' 11.5" wish like a slice of jacket missing but it doesn't expose wire and I wrapped it in electrical tape. 1/0 Welding cable Length: 10': $18.50 ~ SOLD!!! 11': $21.50 ~ SOLD!!! RF 1/0 17': $68 ~ SOLD!!! Memphis & Stinger 1/0: $1.50 a foot Length: Various, will measure upon request. Looks like 1-4 feet pieces MAS Power 2 Ch. RCA: $10 Monster Cable RCA: $40 ~ SOLD!!! Pionner AVH-P3200DVD w/ Harness: $250 ~ SOLD!!! Pics in 3rd post: Stinger 2 1/0 inputs to 4 8 gauge outputs dist blocks: $30 Kicker 6.5" SVC 1 ohm subwoofer 300 rms. BNIB $60 ~ SOLD!!! Old School RF power! Bd500.1! 500rms @ 2 ohm underrated: $200 ~ NLFS!!! Stinger 3 1/0 Input/Output Dist Block: $40 ~ SOLD!!!
  9. Hey guys, I'm a noob on the rise (at least I like to think), but I've never run over 2K watts RMS in any of my systems, until now. I currently am running a Q2200.1 and a Kenwood Excelon XR400-4. I just bought and received a SoundQubed Q4-120, 4 AudioQue 6x9's, and a set of SQ's SuperTweets. I haven't installed any of the new gear yet, but I would like to install a set of the 6x9's for a little added mid bass and the SuperTweets for sure. As far as installed speakers, I have (2) SoundQubed HDS3 12's, Pair of Infinity Kappa 6.5 components, and a pair of Kappa 6x9's. My goal is to buy another Q2200.1 and strap it to my existing. I want to run a pair of HDC3 12's and push them to their max. I know I will need availability to 400amps just for those two amps. Now add in my Kenwood (which is probably another 70amps) and if I install the SoundQubed Q4-120 which is 80amps, I will definitely need a second run of 1/0. Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough upfront... As far as electrical is concerned now, I have a MechMan 240amp HO alt and (3) H6 AutoZone Platinum's with around 210amp hours, that are holding up excellent so far. I have one run of 1/0 from the front battery to the (2) rear batteries. My question is, would it be best to fabricate some sort of bus bar out of 1/4"x2" flat bar and make all connections there with a second run of 1/0 from front to back? Or just do another run of 1/0 from front to rear battery bank and call it good? Also, do I need to do second runs of 1/0 on the batteries to keep them in a parallel configuration (run another set of 1/0 wires from + to + and - to - ?) Any help with my wiring will be greatly appreciated! I need my wiring to be spot on as all you guys know. If I do this, I will have over 5500RMS and I would like to know if everything is safe. Thanks and once again, sorry for the long ass post!
  10. Looking for 0 gauge wire OFC, let me know if you have any extra and want some cash for it., looking for spools, 25 and or 50 feet:)
  11. *Not a Vs. thread* Which would be more power efficient being as there is only a couple dollar difference in price? 1/0 OFC: http://audiotechnix....-ofc-power-wire OR 2/0 welding cable: http://www.temcoindu...le/WC0026.html# I was planning on upgrading and just wondering which would be better, and obviously the welding cable is bigger but the 1/0 is oxygen free so i wasnt sure. Thanks guys.
  12. finally had my system on a term lab at a local audio shop. I won my class ( 1-2 subs up to 12 inches 1 amp up to 1000 watt) won with a 140.3 on dash drivers door open. 138.4 sealed peaked at 31 hz quick rundown on equipment -Kenwood kdc-200u head unit -alpine mrx-m100 -kinetic hc 1400 -sky high 1/0 cable for big three and run -kicker zx 250.4 for mids and highs -infinity reference doors and rear deck -box is 2.5 cu. ft after sub and port displacing tuned to right around 29ish (by my math) -gt 50 mil on trunk rear deck quarters (not shown) and a bit here and there to help with miscellaneous rattles -gauge reducers where needed made by scoche and all wire is sky high audio. pics up soon uploading now...
  13. Ok so i ordered a Mechman 170amp alt and 1 XS power 5100 to replace the stock components.here is a drawing of what i intend on running. All wire is Bullzaudio 1/0 The fuse between my alt and batt is 250A front and rear fuse are 250A fuse for sub amp is 200A fuse for 4chan is 25A Equipment- 1-1.2000D MB Quart Onx [email protected] 1-Alpine [email protected] I do intend on getting a 2nd XS for the rear but its gonna happen for a month or 2,and with having a stock Bosch batt up front ive read that mixing them would have bad results for 1 or both of the battery's which is why i chose to replace the front 1st.Thanks for the help in advance!
  14. Here is my JL Audio build! Starting off with the car. I have had it for many years and completely restored it. It is a 1991 BMW M5. In the way of audio equipment I have the following. Kenwood Excelon KDC-x395 JL Audio- C5-525 Components for front and rear. 2X JL Audio 12W6V2 Subs JL Audio 300/4 Slash series amp JL Audio 1200/1 HD amp Tsunami CAP JL Bass remote JL Audio 16AWG speaker wire all the way around JL Audio 1/0AWG power wire 600 Battery
  15. Alright guys, and occasional gal, Its time to put together something for the daily. This will be done on a budget of course. 500$ limit. Vehicle: 2001 S-10 ZR2 - Ext. Cab with 3rd Door - 140k+ miles - 2.5" lift on top of 1.5 factory lift. - true dual exhaust - misc.. Audio: - RE audio 12" sxx dual 2 sub - VVME Inno D1500 - Scosche OEM integration - Audio pipe 6.5 < doors 4x6 < dash - Enclosure: 3/4" Birch ply 2 cubes Tuned to 32 Hz - Wire: Sky high 1/0 cca Sky high 1/0 Fuse/ holder/ lugs Sky high 1/0 big 4 Future additions: - 4 channel (cheap) - Couple sets of 6.5 comps (doors and rear pods) NOTE* this is not for competition although i know a guy with a term lab so ill get some numbers. ON WITH THE PICS!!
  16. Hey guys, I bought a hydraulic crimper off of Amazon and the largest die in the box is a 70mm, which seems to be 1 size too small for my SHCA 1/0 lugs and possibly 3 sizes too small for the 2/0. Where can I buy larger dies?
  17. Looking for some 1/0 gauge wire. i need at least one run at about 17-20 ft. willing to buy up to 30 ft. please help me out!
  18. Hey guys, just had my first professional install done on my Lexus ls430...the owner of the shop happened to have a similar model Lexus, so that was really cool. What I had installed as listed ---20 foot of Wirez signature 0 AWG copper wire ---Wirez Mini ANL 0 AWG fuse holder (w/ 150 Amp fuse) ---Wirez Fused Distro Power Block - 2 Amp Anyhow, I have a few questions... 1. What is the biggest Amp I can throw on here without adding a secondary battery? 2. If I added a secondary battery in the back and ran the 0 AWG directly from alternator to secondary battery (in this case it's gonna be either a JY power 45 or 79 AH 12 volt lithium ion battery.....would the 0 AWG be enough to charge this battery effectively so that I could power a large amp (eg. 3000 watts RMS or greater? I am just wondering how many batteries I can effectively charge without putting too much strain on the alternator...and of course I am considering getting a HO alternator... 3. If I throw on a 240 Amp Alternator, how can I limit the amount of current that is drawn through the 0 AWG into the secondary battery? eg. do I need a battery management system of some sort?
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