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Found 20 results

  1. Hey guys. I'm trying to add a Taramps Smart 3K Bass to my system. Currently, I already have 3 amps in place for bass/mids/highs, I would like to replace the bass amp. At the moment, I'm just not sure what exactly needs to be done to achieve this (another 0 gauge run, another battery, etc.) Am I able to just add another run of 0 gauge for the new bass amp from the battery? (Highlighted in green below) Current set up: 2006 Dodge Magnum R/T 345A Autotech Alternator (Custom built/painted) XS D3400R 80Ah AGM Battery upgraded all power/grounds to 0 gauge Taramps TS2000.4 for mids Taramps DS800.4 for highs Hifonics 1600.1 for bass Current voltage sitting in high 13s, no significant drops I've noticed. Feel free to share your opinions. Thanks!
  2. I want to install a second battery, the Kinetik 1200. Only amp I'm running is the rp1200.1d skar wired with OFC 4 gauge. Big 3 done with OFC 0/1 I didnt cheap out on wiring but I'm still getting bad dimming interior lights and headlights when volume is up past 30(max 40). My question is, is an isolator absolutely mandatory or is it just for playing music with the car off, camping etc. I've read mixed posts on reddit that you do/Don't need an isolator, some say it will drain your batteries, others say it wont and most builds do not use an isolator. I'd rather not have to fork out the extra $80 just for an isolator and wiring. Starting battery is just some stock battery from AutoZone. The kinetik 1200 is lead-acid. any help would be nice, cheers
  3. Ok so I've been doing research and honestly I'm kinda stumped, I know I wanna go with lithium titanate but I would like to avoid building my own bank so I've been looking at cased cells https://www.google.com/amp/s/store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/amp/ces-custom-electric-service-40ah-lto-battery-cased-lithium-10-spot-terminals-actively-balanced/ https://caraudiobargain.com/xs-power-ioxus-ix-3160-60ah-lithium-lto-battery-10-000-rms-handling/ But would I be able to hook my current battery terminals up to it without a battery delete since my battery is already in the trunk or do I still need to do a delete and run everything off that? I have a BMW e46 sedan with an h8(group 49) duralast agm in the trunk as my "under the hood" battery. Still new to car audio and this is my second build (first was a single 12 on 800 watts) so I've got a lot to learn, any feedback is appreciated. Thanks
  4. NEED HELP my civic uses a d51r battery and i was going to add an xs power d375 for a little more juice and was wondering will it be ok if i hooked them together or will i need to get another reverse polarity battery ????
  5. does anybody know what the primary and secondary column under wattage means on the xs wattage chart?
  6. Need more room? Move those batteries. We now offer a multiple battery relocation kit for $79.00 + shipping Kit includes:18' of 1/0 red cable with ends crimped with glue lined heat shrink 8' of 1/0 black cable 4 heavy duty copper ring terminals with glue lined heat shrink 2 - 250 amp ANL fuses and holders 12 mounting clamps for wire 12 tec screws If you have any questions feel free to call 1-888-MECHMAN on this or many other MECHMAN products. [/url]
  7. Here's the run down so you'll can give me the best opinion. I drive a 2006 F-150 XLT 4.6 (V8) crew cab. Stock 125 amp alt. I plan on replacing my battery soon and I'm gonna try and convince the 'rents' to buy a better battery than the ones you buy from Ford. I'm tore between getting a XS Power and Kinetik battery. I have no idea what size I need. So your opinion on what size and brand would be wonderful. This isn't 'vs.' thread just a 'suggestion and opinion thread' since I know you'll hate the 'vs.' threads. I also am about to rebuild my system which be consisting of an Orion HCCA 12.2 with 2500 watts pushing towards. I added that just in case it might change your suggestion on size. Sorry for this being long just want the basic run down to get the best opinions. Thanx!
  8. ok i have 4 sa12's on a alpine mrx-m240 benched almost 2700 with a fuse rating of 175 amps. i also have a 4 channel treo engineering ssx40.4 amp i think fuse rating of 40 amps. well yesterday i went to my friends house and i was listerning to my system fairly loudly around volume 20 on a alpine headunit and the amp shut off (thinking the volts dropped to 10volts no lie) my gauge was moving so much. well i have a 200 amp alt i dont know what brand got it from my sundown dealer and a kinetic hc1800 battery. well i want this problem fixed asap but i dont know what to do where to even start. grounds, battery(s) i dont know thats why i need your help. oh everything is ran off of 0/1 gauge wire except to the treo 4 channel thats 4 awg wire. everything is fused. so please help thanks
  9. Hey I'm looking to put 2 of my 4 kicker cvx 12s in for now until I can afford to buy a alternator for all 4, I will be powering them with 1 of my 2 kicker zx1500.1's. I was just wondering if anyone had some 3-4+ cu box designs, can't be to tall cause its going in the trunk of my 98 Pontiac grandprix gtp. Ported box is a must.
  10. Looking for a Kinetik 1400 or 1800 battery. Let me know what you got, and how much for it shipped to 97062 Thanks
  11. I'm adding another amp to my car, i have a zx1000.1 mono for the subs already and im adding the dx400.4 for the speakers. Should i expect a voltage drop, and if so how sufficient will it be? Right now with only the mono i have about 14.4-.7 volts on average when everything is running and turned up. I have an 01 cadillac deville which already has some stock beefy wiring to it. Stock electrical wiring, but I will add another battery as my next upgrade. What can I expect voltage wise when i add the second amp? Thanks
  12. I have a dual audio deck that i guess rms at 18watts. is there any other way than using a DD1 to find the clipping volume. I know how to use a DVM to find the rms on my sub amp abut i wanna get the best volume from the deck first. Secondly. Everything in my jeep is stock except for the deck, mono amp, and subs. .... alt, battery, everything else is stock. im only running 250rms and my lights dimm a little on heavy bass (yes i know its only 250 but it slams for just that) i want to upgrade. 12's down to 10's for more punch but go from 250rms to maybe 500ish to 1000rms (for now). and get a 4 channel for my speakers and get some decent compenents. What are the best things to upgrade on a budget that are necessary for running a god amount of power. Thanks
  13. Hey guys, completely random question but im sure im not alone here. The labels on my XP750 are kinda peeling off and rubbed through in some spots just from moving it around so much. My OCD doesnt like that especially since I plan on getting a second to match. Is it possible to get a new sticker to replace the torn one? Couldn't find anyone who asked this before, hopefully someone has an answer.
  14. So I'm planning on running a bc5500 in the future and i have a few questions about what batteries i'll be needing in the trunk. Currently i've got an XS power d1200 under the hood and a DC power 270 amp alt with big 3 and what not. my question is what size batteries should i go for in the back if i'm looking to run the bc5500 at 1 ohm (5500 watts)? Also how many runs of 1/0 gauge should i have going to the rear batteries? I was thinking of xp 3000 but my voltage often runs at 15 volts and even up to 15.4v on cold days and i've heard that xp series doesnt like anything above 15v? Might a D series be better?
  15. Hey seen a lot of differing opinions on this was jw what the "up to date recommendation" is with respect to the d5100r and new xp series batteries
  16. So I have a d3400 here that was leaking around the seams earlier last winter and slowed in the spring. Now it seems to be bubbling out liquid around the top and making a squealing noise and it seems to have cracked the casing iteseld, idk if its from pressure or what, but I have never dropped this battery, and it is located in a very secure place so it doesnt move around and is held in nice and tight. This battery see's no more then 14.3v for charging and is setup with a mechman 220 amp alt. All 2/0 gauge wiring, it had started leaking earlier this year but was holding the voltage fine, was told pretty much to keep running it, but I had the option of sending it in, I decided to just run it as it was working alright. Now it has gotten a lot worse and seems to be going all over. Its 34 months old, so 2 months from the warrenty being up, hoping Nathan will chime in, im more then willing to ship it in for warranty. The battery has fans blowing on it as it goes through the amps then the battery, ill post some pictures of how my amp rack is currently setup, I havnt updated my Build log for awhile so you will get to see some new work that hasn't been posted also Battery was part of the 2010 Group Sale buy in December, so 34 months ago. I do still have the original Receipt also! From Today November 4th (Didnt Push on it at all, this was just what it was doing) Back In April 3 - Kicker 650.4 amps mounted in the tire wheel, along with a cooling system, speaker junction, fusing, and battery tray With the top piece it holds it so it doesnt move at all, I have more room then how the stock setup was for a trunk and all my mid/high equipment installed A Lot better and space saving this this old amp rack with the old tire rack not even being used!
  17. So i have what i think is a pretty simple question. If i have a regular flooded battery as a starter battery can i use an XS power battery as a supplement to my car audio system. for now it would be a saz 1500d at 2 ohms, so only about 800 or so watts, which i know is not much for that battery but when i get some different subs and wire to 1 ohm ill be around 1500 watts. my main question is would i HAVE to run a relay as to separate the batteries when the car is off? would their be a constant push/pull from the two batteries that could potentially cause the batteries to drop below 12.6 while im not using the car. the longest i go without using my car is about 4 to 6 days. its rare that i ever go a full week without at least cranking it and letting the regular battery charge a bit while i listen to some music. Thanks in advance to everyone who answers!
  18. I am looking at adding an additional battery to my current setup, which is only slightly over 5,000w RMS. My setup as it currently stands: 1 - 250amp H.O. Alternator (full 250amp output @ 1,200rpm) 2 - Optima Red Top Batteries under the hood (dual battery kit) 1 - 12 Farad Audiobahn Capacitor 1 - Metra Electronics Install Bay IB-200 (200amp Battery Isolator or Relay) I am just looking to get the full power out of my amps, not sure if I'd even need another battery in the rear with the amps. Because I don't know what the requirement thresholds are (ie. watts/amps/volts) to require an additional battery back by the amps. Space is limited, and I want to avoid removing the third row seat, so a small yet effective battery (or batcap) would be great. Just looking for your thoughts. Thank you in advance to all the experts/techs/installers/enthusiasts!
  19. Ok so yesterday my car went crazy on me, i turned it off, took the key out, and the car would still run, only until my toggle switch for my amplifier was turned to off. however when the car was on with the keys in it and i turned the switch off, the bass still remained. i got a new switch, that didnt work, unplugged everything from my amp and plugged it back in, everything went back to normal. now my problem is, without changing any setting on the amplifier, bass level ranges over time and clips at less then half according to the bass knob. before i had it so i could crank it up all the way and bass would remain constant and not clip. can someone help me in diagnosing this problem?????
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