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Found 21 results

  1. This being my first post on the forums I will give a bit of background first before delving into my questions. I caught the bass bug when I was young, let's call it 1998 or there about. My buddy's neighbor was into lowriders and car shows and had a 2 door escort with a pair of rockford fosgate something in it that would make you sound as if you were using an Electrolarynx when speaking. 3 years later when I got my driver's license and my first vehicle I also got my first system. Since that time I have dabbled in car audio on and off. Between myself and friends who also dabble we have probably installed and uninstalled, at least a hundred different meh speaker systems. At times one or two of us had a system, sometimes 6 or 7 of us. We have upon occasion stripped multiple vehicles laid out all of the gear and mixed and matched gear and vehicles just to see what combination sounded the best. Clearly I am no stranger to DIY, but during all of these years I lacked so much knowledge. I did not know the names Thiele or Small or that programs such as WinISD even existed. I spent years in the dark playing with bottom of the barrel entry level gear. I mean I had some mid level gear here and there, JL Audio, midgrade Rockford Fosgate, but most of the people I was around thought you can't go wrong with Kicker, and RF P1s were the cream of the crop. A few years ago I was working in the oilfield with tons of time on my hands sitting around the motel in the evening, internet, and a desire to build a home theater system. Being 450 miles from home meant purchasing and building it weren't viable options so I was left with research. I am amazed now that anything I have ever built sounded worth a damn without knowing what I do now and would like to give a thanks to everyone here who has ever offered advice to one person and as a result help educate many like myself. I did pick up a few good deals here and there while on the road just to have some sort of bass in my truck and traded or sold for a profit and reinvested in other audio gear to the point where I am now sitting at $0 out of pocket. My current setup is a cheap Kenwood Excelon KMM-X503 that allows me to play music via bluetooth from my phone with some cheap RF 6.5 coaxials I bought to replace the crumbled factory speakers running on head unit power. I do have an NVX JAD800.4 I plan to use to supply power to the doors in the future when I decide what I want to upgrade them with. For my subwoofer I am running a Dayton Audio Ultimax UM18-22 powered by a NVX VAD17001. I was a believer in the myth about smaller subs having faster punchier bass for the longest time and after learning different I went from running 8s or 10s to an 18. It's not a bad subwoofer really and I have several people who would gladly take it off my hands when I do upgrade, and I will probably even break even selling it with the enclosure I built for it. My current enclosure is just a 3ft^3 sealed enclosure which has an f3 of 30hz. It sounds pretty good, is moderately loud but overall I find myself underwhelmed. I want to port it just to see what it will do while I plan out my next upgrades and have designed an 8ft^3 enclosure tuned to 22hz that I think will sound pretty good with an f3 at 20hz instead of 30 and 4-7 db increase in spl over the entire range of the sub. My next upgrade will be either a mechman or singer 250a-270a alternator and I already have 1/0awg ofc for the big 3 as well as the power and ground to the amplifier. I have another question about alternators but I will come back to it after supplying and requesting more information on subwoofers and amplifiers. After that I am looking to upgrade my subwoofer to an 18" sq type sub. To clarify what I mean by sq, I am not looking for something that will blend in seamlessly with the soundstage. I am a bass head but I want a subwoofer that is detailed and doesn't blend double bass drums into an approximation of what they should be. Until this 18, I never realized how much I like low low bass, but I still want it to be clean. Spl is less important if it isn't crisp and clean, I would rather add a second sub to get the level of spl I want than sacrifice quality for it. This is some of the guidance I am asking for, I was looking at RE XXX but I am not even sure if they still make them. I am also looking at Fi Q series Neo 18s and trying to find other similarly recommended brands to research. I was a bit surprised by the subwoofers FS being 28hz and seeing other drivers in the same ballpark when my current sub has an FS of 19.5. I haven't yet had a chance to model the Fi in winisd but I plan to at some point today to see what I can get out of the low end. Do any of the current better quality subs dig as low as I am aiming for or am I going to readjust my expectations? When I upgrade subwoofers I am going to need an upgraded amplifier as well especially if I decide to add a second sub. What are the good brands out there? I see tons of amps flooding the market and amp dyno videos abound but what are the quality brands? I was looking at Crescendo Bass Clefs and was looking at Orion until I read a post dated sometime around March that leads me to believe Orion is not what it was. That is one of the downsides to passive research, information becomes outdated and eventually you have to stop asking google and ask people in the know. I am curious about how much amperage I truly need out of an alternator, and at what point would I have to run dual alternators. I have read somewhere that some people prefer running 270a alternators because of a better idle output than 300a+, if this is outdated information I may just get a higher output alternator to start with. I understand the math, hypothetically if I were to run dual Fi q neo 18s at 1750w each on a Crescendo BC4k with an efficiency of 70% (for a safe margin) that's 4500w at 14.4v you're talking 312a. But I don't play test tones, I don't compete in any sort of car audio competitions that would require that sort of full bore output. This whole setup will be a daily driver just for my own personal enjoyment, is there a somewhat accepted percentage of absolute power to actual music power demand that might necessitate the need for a second battery vs a higher output alternator? And are multiple extra batteries truly necessary for a daily driver when I don't sit around listening to music with my engine off? I apologize for the long read but have done as much research into the subject as I could to be able to ask the right questions (or so I think). I appreciate any guidance that you choose to offer me.
  2. I have a 98 civic Hx,I want to add an xs680 series battery and upgrade my stock 75amp alternator to a 200-280amp mechman alternator. My battery from factory is not wired directly to the alternator instead it goes through the fuse box first and and ELD controls the voltage output from the alternator and through an 80amp fuse. My question is can i wire a 2nd battery in the trunk directly to the (+) terminal on the alternator without damaging the battery and keep the original lead to the fuse box as well just like stock. I don't want to bypass the ELD and pass more current through that fuse box to not burn anything up. My lights dim like crazy on 60hz notes even with a 6farad cap. I currently run(2) PPI.p12D4 drivers hooked @1ohm on an American Bass ph.4000D.1, and (2) kicker 6.5” k5 series (2)pioneer 6x9TS6900pro on a Nemesis audio 500x4D([email protected]) 4 gauge power and ground wiring to chassis and body,an audiopipe 6 farad cap. I run a 200amp fuse from the battery(Duralast Gold) to The cap and then to a 4 way distribution block to amps. I honestly don’t know my total output but it makes my throat jiggle lol. I came across another ph4000.1 for $130(i know these amp really do about [email protected] with sufficient power) and want to hook 1 to each(2) Soundstream T5 dual2ohm 12” tarantula series @1ohm each for my future setup and add another 4 channel for more components
  3. Hey I'm looking to put 2 of my 4 kicker cvx 12s in for now until I can afford to buy a alternator for all 4, I will be powering them with 1 of my 2 kicker zx1500.1's. I was just wondering if anyone had some 3-4+ cu box designs, can't be to tall cause its going in the trunk of my 98 Pontiac grandprix gtp. Ported box is a must.
  4. So I'm planning on running a bc5500 in the future and i have a few questions about what batteries i'll be needing in the trunk. Currently i've got an XS power d1200 under the hood and a DC power 270 amp alt with big 3 and what not. my question is what size batteries should i go for in the back if i'm looking to run the bc5500 at 1 ohm (5500 watts)? Also how many runs of 1/0 gauge should i have going to the rear batteries? I was thinking of xp 3000 but my voltage often runs at 15 volts and even up to 15.4v on cold days and i've heard that xp series doesnt like anything above 15v? Might a D series be better?
  5. does anybody know what the primary and secondary column under wattage means on the xs wattage chart?
  6. Need more room? Move those batteries. We now offer a multiple battery relocation kit for $79.00 + shipping Kit includes:18' of 1/0 red cable with ends crimped with glue lined heat shrink 8' of 1/0 black cable 4 heavy duty copper ring terminals with glue lined heat shrink 2 - 250 amp ANL fuses and holders 12 mounting clamps for wire 12 tec screws If you have any questions feel free to call 1-888-MECHMAN on this or many other MECHMAN products. [/url]
  7. I'm adding another amp to my car, i have a zx1000.1 mono for the subs already and im adding the dx400.4 for the speakers. Should i expect a voltage drop, and if so how sufficient will it be? Right now with only the mono i have about 14.4-.7 volts on average when everything is running and turned up. I have an 01 cadillac deville which already has some stock beefy wiring to it. Stock electrical wiring, but I will add another battery as my next upgrade. What can I expect voltage wise when i add the second amp? Thanks
  8. Hey seen a lot of differing opinions on this was jw what the "up to date recommendation" is with respect to the d5100r and new xp series batteries
  9. So I have a d3400 here that was leaking around the seams earlier last winter and slowed in the spring. Now it seems to be bubbling out liquid around the top and making a squealing noise and it seems to have cracked the casing iteseld, idk if its from pressure or what, but I have never dropped this battery, and it is located in a very secure place so it doesnt move around and is held in nice and tight. This battery see's no more then 14.3v for charging and is setup with a mechman 220 amp alt. All 2/0 gauge wiring, it had started leaking earlier this year but was holding the voltage fine, was told pretty much to keep running it, but I had the option of sending it in, I decided to just run it as it was working alright. Now it has gotten a lot worse and seems to be going all over. Its 34 months old, so 2 months from the warrenty being up, hoping Nathan will chime in, im more then willing to ship it in for warranty. The battery has fans blowing on it as it goes through the amps then the battery, ill post some pictures of how my amp rack is currently setup, I havnt updated my Build log for awhile so you will get to see some new work that hasn't been posted also Battery was part of the 2010 Group Sale buy in December, so 34 months ago. I do still have the original Receipt also! From Today November 4th (Didnt Push on it at all, this was just what it was doing) Back In April 3 - Kicker 650.4 amps mounted in the tire wheel, along with a cooling system, speaker junction, fusing, and battery tray With the top piece it holds it so it doesnt move at all, I have more room then how the stock setup was for a trunk and all my mid/high equipment installed A Lot better and space saving this this old amp rack with the old tire rack not even being used!
  10. Hi, I can't seem to find a straight forward answer anywhere. So I'd like some help from you guys to better understand batteries. I'd like to have a set up that allows me to play with my truck Off, for at least 2-3 hours, Safely(for my equipment)...if possible. I'm planning on running 2 amps for 3,500 RMS total. 1.) Being that I'd push my system pretty close to its full potential while relying exclusively on battery reserve, what type of battery is recommend? How many? 2.) I'd like to run my Stereo off the same reserve, and be able to just start my ride and go. How do I account for my head unit power consumption? 3.) HO alt? Any advice is welcome. Thanks
  11. NEED HELP my civic uses a d51r battery and i was going to add an xs power d375 for a little more juice and was wondering will it be ok if i hooked them together or will i need to get another reverse polarity battery ????
  12. ok i have 4 sa12's on a alpine mrx-m240 benched almost 2700 with a fuse rating of 175 amps. i also have a 4 channel treo engineering ssx40.4 amp i think fuse rating of 40 amps. well yesterday i went to my friends house and i was listerning to my system fairly loudly around volume 20 on a alpine headunit and the amp shut off (thinking the volts dropped to 10volts no lie) my gauge was moving so much. well i have a 200 amp alt i dont know what brand got it from my sundown dealer and a kinetic hc1800 battery. well i want this problem fixed asap but i dont know what to do where to even start. grounds, battery(s) i dont know thats why i need your help. oh everything is ran off of 0/1 gauge wire except to the treo 4 channel thats 4 awg wire. everything is fused. so please help thanks
  13. Hey Guys! I am in need of some help inconnection with my battery connection. So at one point it occurred to me, when I played from my batteries only, one is taking more time to recharge than the other. It seemed to me, that the balance between them is equal(I think I was wrong), so I decided to investigate. I know that battery one takes the more "beat" than it should, because it takes 4-6 hours to recharge opposite to battery two which is only taking 1-2 hours, when placed on a charger. I also put on a test tone to see what is up, and started clamping for some amperage measurements. By this I found out battery one is providing 16X MORE amps than battery two. So here is the deal. I do not know what causes this problem, because I have 0 AWG copper wires, and I have 15 inches of wire between batteries counter to 4 feet between the batteries and the amplifier, so I don't think it is the wires. What I could come up with as a solution is to get a dual 1/0 to 1/0 power and ground input for the amplifier for balance purposes. Do you think it will help? Or is it just a waste of money? If you have any solutions/ideas please share it!! Thank you in advance!
  14. I am looking at adding an additional battery to my current setup, which is only slightly over 5,000w RMS. My setup as it currently stands: 1 - 250amp H.O. Alternator (full 250amp output @ 1,200rpm) 2 - Optima Red Top Batteries under the hood (dual battery kit) 1 - 12 Farad Audiobahn Capacitor 1 - Metra Electronics Install Bay IB-200 (200amp Battery Isolator or Relay) I am just looking to get the full power out of my amps, not sure if I'd even need another battery in the rear with the amps. Because I don't know what the requirement thresholds are (ie. watts/amps/volts) to require an additional battery back by the amps. Space is limited, and I want to avoid removing the third row seat, so a small yet effective battery (or batcap) would be great. Just looking for your thoughts. Thank you in advance to all the experts/techs/installers/enthusiasts!
  15. Ok so yesterday my car went crazy on me, i turned it off, took the key out, and the car would still run, only until my toggle switch for my amplifier was turned to off. however when the car was on with the keys in it and i turned the switch off, the bass still remained. i got a new switch, that didnt work, unplugged everything from my amp and plugged it back in, everything went back to normal. now my problem is, without changing any setting on the amplifier, bass level ranges over time and clips at less then half according to the bass knob. before i had it so i could crank it up all the way and bass would remain constant and not clip. can someone help me in diagnosing this problem?????
  16. Hey guys, completely random question but im sure im not alone here. The labels on my XP750 are kinda peeling off and rubbed through in some spots just from moving it around so much. My OCD doesnt like that especially since I plan on getting a second to match. Is it possible to get a new sticker to replace the torn one? Couldn't find anyone who asked this before, hopefully someone has an answer.
  17. So i have what i think is a pretty simple question. If i have a regular flooded battery as a starter battery can i use an XS power battery as a supplement to my car audio system. for now it would be a saz 1500d at 2 ohms, so only about 800 or so watts, which i know is not much for that battery but when i get some different subs and wire to 1 ohm ill be around 1500 watts. my main question is would i HAVE to run a relay as to separate the batteries when the car is off? would their be a constant push/pull from the two batteries that could potentially cause the batteries to drop below 12.6 while im not using the car. the longest i go without using my car is about 4 to 6 days. its rare that i ever go a full week without at least cranking it and letting the regular battery charge a bit while i listen to some music. Thanks in advance to everyone who answers!
  18. Here's the run down so you'll can give me the best opinion. I drive a 2006 F-150 XLT 4.6 (V8) crew cab. Stock 125 amp alt. I plan on replacing my battery soon and I'm gonna try and convince the 'rents' to buy a better battery than the ones you buy from Ford. I'm tore between getting a XS Power and Kinetik battery. I have no idea what size I need. So your opinion on what size and brand would be wonderful. This isn't 'vs.' thread just a 'suggestion and opinion thread' since I know you'll hate the 'vs.' threads. I also am about to rebuild my system which be consisting of an Orion HCCA 12.2 with 2500 watts pushing towards. I added that just in case it might change your suggestion on size. Sorry for this being long just want the basic run down to get the best opinions. Thanx!
  19. Looking for a Kinetik 1400 or 1800 battery. Let me know what you got, and how much for it shipped to 97062 Thanks
  20. I have a dual audio deck that i guess rms at 18watts. is there any other way than using a DD1 to find the clipping volume. I know how to use a DVM to find the rms on my sub amp abut i wanna get the best volume from the deck first. Secondly. Everything in my jeep is stock except for the deck, mono amp, and subs. .... alt, battery, everything else is stock. im only running 250rms and my lights dimm a little on heavy bass (yes i know its only 250 but it slams for just that) i want to upgrade. 12's down to 10's for more punch but go from 250rms to maybe 500ish to 1000rms (for now). and get a 4 channel for my speakers and get some decent compenents. What are the best things to upgrade on a budget that are necessary for running a god amount of power. Thanks
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