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Found 107 results

  1. Hi I'm planning on doing the big 3 upgrade on my 2000 Chevy Malibu it has a stock alt and i'm using an acid battery also I'm not able to get access to my oem engine block to chassis ground wire so i'm wondering if its ok to use the alt mounting bracket bolt as engine ground instead? I read somewhere that the big 3 can cause acid batteries to explode which leads me to asking if I should wait and upgrade the battery first to an agm then do big 3 or will I be okay for couple of months also planning on upgrading alt but having hard time finding one for my car...
  2. im adding a battery in the trunk and ran out of 1/0 for the ground but i have plenty of 4 guage can i use a few runs of it to ground the battery?
  3. EDIT 05/31/18: 1 BATTERY REMAINING. $250 firm, WILL BRING TO SLAM IF SERIOUS I sold my second car and bought some lithium, so I dont need my AGM bank anymore. I'm trying to shed some pounds from my current audio build. These were bought 1 year ago and were in my last build (Chevy Sonic, walled). I kept these properly charged at all times and these have never seen voltage lower than 11.8V. I charged them on my bench 10ish weeks ago with the PSC60 and they are still resting at 12.89V as of yesterday. Internal resistance measures under 18milliohms. I am asking $300 per battery, and $100 for the copper bus bar ($170 value, plus they are already drill and tapped). I will personally deliver to (almost) anywhere in central/east Texas or Louisiana. Here's a pic of the bank in my previous build, being all sexy as f*ck:
  4. Hey guys! So recently I got myself a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3 D4 subs, and started to play with them a little. However I can't quite see the numbers I was hoping for. I got to thinking what can cause this little anomaly. I am thinking maybe it is my battery, because everything else semms to be okay. My setup consists of 2 RF P3D4 subs, a Hifonics Brurus BRX2016.1D, and an XS power D975. I choose theese things because it seems to fit together just fine to cover the 1000-1500 watt range, but apperently I was wrong somewhere. All of this is currently out of a car, so maybe it is the problem. However, I have seen many videos where people get their equipment out form a car for a period of time, and they can reproduce almost the same power, and that is the reason I am worried a bit by now. It also can be a tuning problem, because I only owe a multimeter ( whitch is a True RMS meter by the way) and a clamp, but I doubt is is the real reason. Thank you for your answers in advance! I hope you can help me out! ?
  5. STEPPING IT UP A NOTCH And I Need Your help ? - I Recently installed dual 0ga runs for my bc3500d crescendo and have a few questions about my next setup. 1st. what size fuses should i use for under the hood since theres 2 runs? 2nd should i fuse after my second battery ? if so what size on those ? i will be getting a new secondary battery (old one gave out) what would be a recommended battery for this amp? 3rd I'm planning on upgrading my alt, i was looking at the 320 amp mechman what you guys think? And Last (i Sold my 2 12s Crossfire c7s, thinking of getting 2 15s ) what subs would you guys recommend for this setup ? Btw All of this is going in a tahoe. Thanks in advance ?
  6. hello everyone, just a newbie here with some questions In regards to my wiring and battery. But first a little background and my agenda. my car is an 07 Volkswagen rabbit 4 door 2.5l auto. I purchased this car as a commuter car, as my 01 Jeep Cherokee wasn't good in the fuel mileage area. when I purchased the rabbit used, there was some previous audio work already done. there was a Pioneer double din display installed, along with a power amp for the mids. Now maybe I am the little over kill type, but I don't feel that the 4 awg power/ground wire is adequate enough. especially considering its CCA. Now in my Jeep I ran 1/0 welding cable, that mild system was a mean machine powering a Kicker CVR 2 ohm 10" sub in a sealed box, along with a MTX mid amp powering 4 kicker ks600s. i don't think 1/0 is necessary in my Rabbit let alone my Jeep. I am working on a similar system, though my current mid amp is an audio planet 1200watt 4 channel amp and my sub is a Skar audio rp350.1 with a ix 10v 2. I may upgrade the Skar, but won't know until my sub is broke in. my goal is a loud and clear system. I was thinking of upgrading my wire to 2 awg, doing the big 3, and replacing my battery. so I thought would get you opinions. one thing that comes to mind with my Jeep when I was pushing my system, my lights and volt meter would drop. I never performed the big three with it nor did I get a better battery. my concern is that I will have the same issue and along with my battery not testing so well, I will end up dead in the water someday. some day I will focus on the door speakers, eq, and crossovers. but for now, I want to focus on adequate power. thanks
  7. Hey guys! Maybe it is a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyways. ? So I purchased an XS power D 975 last summer, and I am extremely happy with the performance it provides. However I still do not understand how would a 35AH battery with it's own 12.8-13.0 volts support a 1000/2000 watt system. What do you think about the accuracy and the reality of these ratings in the real world? (not just testing in the lab) ? I also do not understand how can I tell if the battery is low on charge. Like when I use it ( lets say for 25 minutes and cranking it) and stick a voltmeter to the probes right after that it shows for example 12.56 volts. The maual says you should get cahrging when the volts are below 12.6 and it is really stict so you should kepp it that way. So I set up my charger ant when I test it again a few minutes later it now showls like 12.73. How is that possible? And if the cells fill up eachother how can I tell when it is drained or not? ? Thanks for the answers! ??
  8. I have a kinetik hc2400 and currently i charge it at 2amps. Would upping that and charging the batt at 3.5amps hurt it, would that be too much voltage or would it be fine
  9. I need some adivce on how long to charge my battery. I topped it off around last weekend, and just purchased a new charger yesterday its not a smart charger but i can charge it af 2.5a. Right now the voltage is resting at 12.3 i have a kinetik hc2400. And when it reaches floating charge recommendations does it mean that its fully charged?
  10. So I am looking at XS batteries and caps, and I was wondering... Just how much does a 14v battery assist your electrical system? I am talking about replacing starting battery with 14v. Does your alternator do less work keeping these batteries at 14v? Less voltage drop in overall system? Or if anyone is running one as a second battery, I am curious to hear your results as well.
  11. I have a pair of DD M2C’s at .5 I am upgrading my stock battery from a deep cycle lead acid to something else. I will have a pair of 300a alts . My question is , I have been pondering the idea of 10 kinetic hc600-rev or 4 xs power 1800’s and last but not least a pair of NSB 480’s . Would there be a benifit to all the small batteries over less larger ones? With the amps I have would these be over kill or am I on point? thanks in advance
  12. Hello everyone i have a relatively mid powered system. I am having a issue with my electric system. I know this topic is being discussed million times, but I'm not sure what to believe. my system is as follows: pionner unit x2700bs 6.2" touchscreen pioneer gm-d9605 5 channel amp, 4x 75watts @ 4ohm and 1x 600 watts @ 2ohm (2000watts max) class d amp two nvx 6.5 speakers @50watts and two nvx 6x9 @ 55 watts, plus, two 12" rockford fosgate single [email protected] p1s4-12 connected in parallel for a final impidence of 2ohms, 250watts each, 500 -600 watts total 4 guage wire for + and - of the amp 14 guage speaker wires/ 8 guage amp wires stock alternator 110amps xspower d1200 battery big 3 upgrade with 1/0 guage wire from xspower kit All gains set properly with smd dd1 deck clips at 38 out of 40 but i never pass 31 my problem is that my headlights dims when the bass hits, and also i have voltage drops when the bass hits, at the battery terminals it goes from 13.8 to 12.5, or even lower. At the amp terminals its always 12.8 and it drops to 11.2 or lower. I also noticed a change of the engine noise, meaning that when the bass hits, looks like the rpms are affected or something, because the noise reduces every time the bass hits. I would like to play loud, but also not stress out my other electrics/electronics in my car. any suggestions?
  13. I am getting ready to do my build and I want to make sure I am well prepared. I currently have a 300a HO alternator and a Xstatic Batcap 2000 in the rear and just a regular Duralast Gold up front. All 1/0 wiring throughout. I am running about 3.5kw watts. Will this be enough to support my system? I will be playing with the vehicle powered on and will never play with it off. I'm just wondering if I should get a different battery up front, add another rear battery or leave it as is. I went with the Xstatic Batcap because I got it for a good price when I bought my alternator but after doing some reading I have read that it doesn't have much reserve capacity and is good for burps and not so much daily....not sure how true that is. Thanks for any help!
  14. A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly. I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming? Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly. After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?
  15. I have an XS D7500 Battery that I am trying to get rid of. It's been sitting in the garage and I don't use it. I fully charged it on the XS Power battery charger a few weeks ago and its currently resting at 12.7V - 12.8V. $500 shipped and it's yours, thanks for looking! ? (If you are local in the Denver area and I don't have to ship it, I will give you a better deal!)
  16. What's a good reference point to upgrade the stock car's electric system, rather than waiting until the lights are dimming like mad and the alternator dies? Is there a minimum wattage before things like the Big 3 and Battery changes are required? Comment what you guys have done. Thanks!
  17. hello everyone. im just looking for info, what is better to use one big battery like a northstar sms agm 480 or 2-3 smaller ones like xs d3400. im going to be running two hdc3 18 on one sq 3500.1, i have a 04 avalanche with the stock alt. i am going to upgrade the alt to a h.o. alt in the future thanks for the help
  18. Please read the rules, Thanks
  19. I got a group 31 Deka Intimidator Group 31 battery about 6-8 months ago and it was fully charged when I got it on a trade for an old amp. I know that its almost dead by now from sitting but will it still be good to use after charging it or not?
  20. I recently ordered a soundqubed HDC 3.15 D1, (thanks to helpful recommendations from members here), and am hung up on which amp to order. I was warned a 2000 watt amp would require full electrical upgrades. I believe I'm currently running the stock 117 amp alternator (will confirm that soon) in my 98 jeep cherokee with a gm-d8604 amp to four coax speakers. I will be upgrading my battery cables and alternator cables to 1 awg soon. If I went with the q1-2200.2 what would be the best but cheapest way to power that? I've looked into h.o. alternators but I'm not sure. Additional batteries? I know the HDC 3.15 can take more but how much power would the q1-1200.2 require and what minimum electrical upgrades would I need for that? Any other amp suggestions for the HDC 3,15 with minimal electrical upgrades needed? Thanks for all the help, I'm trying to search for box plans myself, but any advice on that is welcome too.
  21. hey everyone, i have a question that im just trying to get an opinion on. so, i have a 2000 blazer with the stock alt still (yes i know laugh it up LOL). but i have done the big 3 with skyhigh 1/0 OFC. i have just an average duralast battery up front, and an XS power D4700 in the rear. all wiring in shca 1/0. the rear battery is grounded to where the rear seats bolts to the frame/floor, is that a good ground? Im running an AQ2200 @.7 ohms. my voltage drops to mid 11s. is that to be expected with the batteries and wiring i have? do you guys think i need an HO alt for this amp or just a few extra batteries? thanks!
  22. dylan117

    Best box designers?

    hey guys, im looking for some of the best box designers you know of to design me a flat wall for 4 18s. thanks!
  23. I have a 2007 Ford Fusion with a stock alternator, probably stock battery (could be anything between 120-150 amp), and a Crescendo Logic F-31HP AGM Powercell battery in the trunk. The batteries are connected in parallel via 0 gauge wires (one positive and one negative) under the car. I installed the battery about a year ago and have had zero power/electrical problems since. Within the last week my car has been having a hard time starting and in fact the last time I had to have someone jump me. I have a voltmeter up by the driver's seat that is connected to the back crescendo battery and it read 9.5 volts. When the car is running with the radio off, the voltage stays between 3.7 - 4.0 volts. HOWEVER, when I go to the trunk to maunally check the voltage of that crescendo battery, it reads almost 0.3 volts more. So because of the 0.3 volt drop, when I mentioned before that the battery was 9.5, it was actually 9.8, which is still bad. But, the problem is when I then check the battery in front, it reads 0.17 more than the back battery. When I first installed the back battery, the voltages were always within 0.01 volts of each other. Now the voltage drop is concerning me greatly. So my theory is that when the car is off and I don't drive it for a few days the front battery is trying to charge the back battery up to its voltage, which in affect is discharging the front or maybe even both batteries. But, it is just a theory and I really don't know, that is why I am asking you guys what you think is happening and what I should do. PS, I bought the car used like 3 years ago and have never changed the front battery and I am thinking it has never been changed, so it might be at the end of its life cycle PSS, I know that it is bad when you add a 2nd battery and don't uprade the alternator or add one; so that might be a factor as well.
  24. I have a 2014 Nissan Altima 2.5S and I know I going to need more power. Let's just say for the sake of argument that an upgraded alternator is not an option because my vehicle is new. So I ordered up a XS Power D3400R from DC and I have an old XS Power D3400 from my 2009 Altima that wouldn't fit so I'm going to put it in the trunk. Big 3 will be done so here's the question. How can I get more voltage stability with what I have and will my factory alternator be able to keep a charge on those batteries or should I just run one? I'll be running RF2500bdcp, 3-T1D410, & a RFT600-4.
  25. Ok so, my rear battery doesn't not seem to be taking a charge, I have a duralast battery under the hood, and an XS Power D4700 in the rear. all skyhigh 1/0 wiring. when unhook the charging wire from the rear battery, and put a volt meter on just that wire coming from the front battery, it's reading 14.4-14.5 with the car on. As soon as I connect the charging wire to the rear battery, the meter reads 12.3-12.4 ish with the car on. I think the ground is good because I've never had a problem with it charging before. any ideas what it could be? XS battery is about 6 months old
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