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Found 41 results

  1. I've got a '96 Mercury Sable, and I want to back off of the intense, crap-sounding, bass, and move into nice clean bass. What are some recommendations for SQ subs? I'm looking at running one 12", or 2 10". Haven't decided that yet. Also, don't say JL. I like them, but that pricetag! Little too high for me.. haha.
  2. Ok so I am new to the fourm, and joined to ask this question: I have 10 Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1's in a dual ported box. and a choice of a Kicker ZX1000.1 or a JL slash 500/1v1 to push them with. Feeding the signal to the amp is a Audiocontrol LC2i LOC, and it's tapping the stock subs line out. I just installed the system last night and went with the Kicker. Thinking that the 1000 would be better b/c the subs are rated at 350 rms and 1300 max per sub. I tried to tune it today and the gain in the amp is as far down as it will go and the gain on the LC2i is mid-way, and it is crazy loud!!! I was just wondering am I overpowering these??? or is the LC2i just that beast that it will push 2 Kappa Perfects on its own. Should I go with the JL??? anythoughts??
  3. Hello everyone, This is my first post here, or on any forum on the interwebz. Thank you all in advance for any help you can provide. So my old focus hatchback decided to kick the bucket and I purchased a 2012 chrysler 200. Not my first choice of bass car but its nice and they were the only dealership in the Ann Arbor MI are that could get me a reasonable loan. I have 1 Sundown Z v.3 18 that i would love to try to cram in the trunk, i built the box for it that was in my focus but it will not fit in the chrysler so im looking for advice on how to make the proper choices for port size and what not. I do not plan to compete, i like it loud but clear also. Im not a strick audiophile but i can tell whats good and not. I love the lows, feeling the music is the best part but i listen to all sorts of music not just rap so id like to be able to have a bit of range. The trunk has a max height of 14.5 inches (that includes space for the woofer to move), 38" wide at the smallest point and id like to keep it to a max length of 30ish". I obviously dont care about having any trunk space left, thats why we have back seats right? For the time being ill be using my orion hcca 10 in the spec ported box that i paid wayyy to much to have the local shop build a few years ago. Power is a Hifonics Brutus brx 1600, kinetik hc 2000, knukoncepts ofc 1 awg, stock alt, new front batt soon and big 3 soon, there is only the stock crap in the car right now. And i know the amp isnt amazing but it gets the job done. So after the longwindedness you just endured what would yall say is a good port option? 6 to 7 cube box, i know the rule of thumb is 12 to 16 in sqd per foot cubd, id like to be around 32 33 hz. I was think an internal height of about 11", sub mounted up to a single baffle with a second overtop to make it flush and add strength and some 2x4 braces around the cutout. Single baffle everywhere else. My last box i messed up on calculations (first time) and ended up tuned way high but it sounded pretty good, got loud and still played down into the 20s. It is 1.5 inch mdf all around, resind the inside, 45d the corners, bedlined the outside, it weighs more than my gf with a purse full of rocks. Id like to go birch and stain it this time Thank you all again, im open to any and all suggestions. I can post pics too if anyone wants. As an fyi i have no comp to use any box building software since my macbook pro was stolen a year and a half ago so im all website calcs and paper.
  4. I have a 85 Monte Carlo SS that I'm trying to do a trunk build for. I already have 2 SQ subs, but I think I'm having issues seeing how they will fit. This is just a rough mock up process, as I haven't even sounddeadened the trunk yet, let alone an enclosure built, but I'm just thinking ahead. Here is the area I have to work with: 12 3/4 H 41 3/4 L 21 3/4 D I can get enough volume (I think), but with a height of maybe 12 3/4 max, can I even fit the cutout diameter on the face? I assume I could go subs up, port back, but I really wanted the subs facing back. The sub frame floor is 1/2 birch, the supports are 3 3/4, and the false floor that the box will sit on is 1/2 birch. The side panels are 1/2 and the "lifting" part will be 1/2 as well.
  5. hey guys. i doubt any of you really remember but i had a 2010 civic. was gonna start building, totaled it, fast forward a little bit and i now have a mazda 3 sedan. deck/processor - pioneer 80-prs speakers - focal p165-v15 amps - B2 Zero.7 audison voce quattro on mids (active) subs - 2 aa mayhems gca custom built 15's shca ofc 1/0 power wire shok industries ofc speaker wire. well here are some pictures. hopefully more to come as i do some more work first things first, had to tint the windows heres the box design deck installed 2 sa-10s progress on the box equipment being used bit of a tight fit only way i could place the amps but looked good put some carpet ontop of the box and mounted the amps speakers installed and running fully active was planning on having the car lowered or new rims until someone decided to key my car repainted and how its sitting as of last night!
  6. Hi all, I'm brand new on here and looking for some direction regarding a sub. I am looking to change subs to venture out into some of the non-mainstream brands. I want to stay with just one 12" and my current monoblock is a JL 500/1 Slash series. I do not want to upgrade my amp just yet, nor do I know how much more my electrical system will allow (2009 Acura TSX....also running a JL 300/4 for mids and highs, which obviously adds to the overall power consumption). I want a sub that is tight and accurate, but also hits with authority and is relatively loud (considering having only 500 watts for the sub). I'm not an SPL junkie, but when I am in the mood I do like it depending on what I am listening to. I like well defined bass. I listen to A LOT of metal, so I need something very tight and punchy, but I do like my fair share of hip hop and dubstep. I definitely want to stay with a SEALED box. I've tried ported, and while it served me well for a while, I keep going back to sealed. I just like the way it sounds. I have been reading a lot about Sundown SA series, but it seems like that is mainly an SPL woofer...correct me if I am wrong, though. I am just super curious about them. I realize I would be under powering the SA-12 a bit, but I have read reviews of people putting 500 watts on them and being plenty happy. Again, it will be SEALED. What about CT Sounds? AD Designs? Hertz (although becoming more mainstream)? Or any other brands I should be considering. This is getting a little long winded, but let me know what other info I am leaving out to better help you help me
  7. hi guys im looking for some high quality, loud, 6x9s and tweeters for my car. Im throwing a 1200 watts of face blasting bass in the back and i need to be able to hear my music clearly while bumping. Any suggestions? the budget is around $100-$150 for tweets, and the $100-$150 for the 6x9s
  8. I have recently just purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 12" inch sub. I want to build a box but not really sure if it's best to stay within the manufactures recommended dimensions of .75 to 1.25 for a sealed box. And then the subject of what provides better sound, from a box thats taller than long, or longer than tall. Then the subject of facing the sub towards the back seat or out into the trunk. Can some one help me out? I'm very knowledgeable to car audio, just not at going beyond manufacturers recommended volume and trunks.
  9. yesterday i smoked one of the aq 2200. its been working fine for years i guess .5 ohms finally killed her i had two of them strapped at 1 ohm the other one i think is still good does anyone know a place that repairs amps? bc i want to get ready for va tdh show next month
  10. This is an event that is located in South Carolina Lancaster if anyone is interested. All your Car Stereo & Automotive Needs! KMS AUTO REPAIR CENTER 376 LANCASTER BY-PASS EAST LANCASTER SC 29720 Steve 803-320-3193 Call or Text Email is [email protected] www.KossMotorSports.com Join us for our FREE Monthly SPL Challenge Series, Car Show, Car Meet and Burn Out Contest! KMS is your source for all your Car Stereo needs. We are the areas only authorized Kicker dealer. We carry many other lines including Rockford Fosgate, JVC, Pioneer, SSL, Planet Audio, Power Bass and much much more. We can special order for all major brands you like. KMS has the experience to take you car audio to the next level. KMS has a strong Competition past and over 30 years of car audio competition winning systems. Dates: May 10th Saturday 5PM till 10PM June 8th Sunday 1PM to 6PM July 12th Saturday 5PM till 10PM August 9th Saturday 5PM till 10PM September 13th Saturday 5PM till 10PM October 12th Sunday 1PM to 6PM November 8th Saturday 5PM till 10PM CASH PAY OUT FINALS DECEMBER 6TH Saturday 1PM to ???? 2014 True SPL Series Challenge monthly at the shop! Where we test out your system, DB is proven with our Term Lab system.
  11. hey, new to the site. just looking to see if anyone has any recommendations for a sub i can use with my amp and box. my box is a trunk mounted forward facing 12 inch sealed box with .94 cubic feet and a depth of 7 or 7.5 inches. i forgot exactly, i built it 8 years ago. my amp is a 2004 rockford fosgate 1500bd. the amp is rated 750 watts rms @4 ohms @ 14.4 volts or 1500 watts rms @2 ohms @ 14.4 volts. im considering keeping it at 4 ohms because of my electrical system and my other amp and accessories. im running a stock 80 amp alternator with 2 optima yellow tops and 0 gauge jl audio power cables. im also running a 2002 us acoustic amp to my polk audio mobile monitor 6.5 components for my front sound stage. the head unit is a Pioneer DEH-80PRS. i prefer SQ but would like a louder deeper bass. i have previously had the last generation 2016 alpine type r (1000w rms) but it only lasted a year and a half but did sound good for a while. also had a 2002 earthquake dbx12d (400w rms) wired @8 ohms. im looking for something that will produce better lows then the type r while still keeping the box in the forward position. im considering the SA12 D2 or the dc audio level 3 but im also tempted to get the level 4 or fi ssd neo 12. also considered the image dynamics id12 but i hear their somewhat delicate compared to my other choices. if anyone has any suggestions or any experience with the subs i listed in a sealed box please let me know. thanks.
  12. Whatsup everyone here my first post on SMD Forums. I recently installed my very first system while on a college student's budget. Please give opinions, criticisms, tips, as well as your own setup and insight! Here is the rundown: 2009 Pontiac G6 GT Sedan Pioneer DEH80-PRS: $260 shipped Morel Virtus 6.5 Components: $280 shipped (like new on ebay) Precision Power BA1600.4 Class AB 4 Channel: $110 shipped JL Audio 12w1v2-4: Given to me as as gift Kenwood KAC-8105D: Given to me as a gift Belva 1.5^ft3 Prefab Sealed Enclosure: $40 from Sonicelectronix 3 Rolls of 1x25ft of Useal from Home Depot: $55 Installation Accessories, Wires, and Big 3: $80 False Floor: $20 Alternator and Battery: Stock Total: Approx. $845 All crossovers are active from the headunit. Time alignment and eq were manually set with hours of listening. I have no need for a rear fill. The voltage does not drop below 13.5V when on full tilt, thanks to the DD-1 which a local friend lent to me. Sounds ballistic when playing rock music, and the bass has surprised many people when playing Decaf. I had mister John Webb from Performance Audio in Las Vegas listen to it, and he congratulated me saying it sounded pretty good compared to others especially for my first system. For me, it sounds pretty damn good. I do have some complaints tho: The Useal absolutely sucks. It melts in the Vegas heat and slides. The sealed sub enclosure might be slightly too big, any tips? My subwoofer amp can handle 500wrms, but Im not sure if my electrical system can handle if I upgrade to a stronger subwoofer possibly a JL 12w3v3 for $185 shipped(any recommendations?). And lastly, If I just build a ported box to manufacturers spec, It recommends to tune to 28Hz?! any help? I encourage anyone to do their own research and build their own system. It is fun and makes you appreciate your car and actually want to drive it and show people. And TAKE THE TIME to look for good deals. I saved plenty of money on my system by being patient and doing my homework on parts. So what do you guys think? Please give any tips, and let us know what you have?
  13. I want to run my two subs IB at 8ohm. I need to confirm my order by selecting D2 or D4 subs. I dont have an amp yet, so im just going to select an amp according to speakers later. I want to know what is the difference between two Dual 4ohm subs wired separately in series to their own channel/amp for an 8ohm load VS two Dual 2ohm subs wired together all the way up series to 8ohm on one channel. My guess is the D4 separated is more effiecent, just a guess. Is there a measurable difference even tho both way its still two subs with 8ohm load. I need some advice on this, i cant find much lookin around on my own. I posted this issue in SQ topics, but not too much info there yet, figure i try in the sub topics area.
  14. do u gule down the spider or just bolt it? or both. also the holes arent lining up right on plasic ring on spider btw before and after it was blown so i turned up the gain and bass bost lol
  15. Alright, I need some opinions, I'm looking into redoing my stock door speakers in my 2011 F150. So far, I've picked out the Rockford Fosgate T400-4 amp, the T252-S components for the front, and the T1572 5x7s for the rear. I just want some opinions on if this setup would sound good or what's better. Remember, college student budget, under $1000 total, lol. Ive already got 2 DD 1508's under the back seat, so no subs. Thanks!
  16. My headunit just is not cutting it anymore. I have a Sony MEX-BT4100P, it works great and has awesome setting options but just isnt allowing me to make those minute changes per speaker that im looking for so i dont have to stress out my mids with the bass its sending to my sub. Im looking for a processor like the RF 3sixty but under that $400 price tag. Of course sound quality is a huge must and i know i probably will not get that from a $50 processor. Just looking for something that sounds great and works even better within a $100-$250 range. Any suggestions?
  17. So I posted this under Headunits and got no reply so I'll post it here and see what happens. My headunit just is not cutting it anymore. I have a Sony MEX-BT4100P, it works great and has awesome setting options but just isnt allowing me to make those minute changes per speaker that im looking for so i dont have to stress out my mids with the bass its sending to my sub. Im looking for a processor like the RF 3sixty but under that $400 price tag. Of course sound quality is a huge must and i know i probably will not get that from a $50 processor. Just looking for something that sounds great and works even better within a $100-$250 range. Any suggestions?
  18. I've been out of the loop for a few year and I am just not getting back into it. I just purchased my first car in awhile that I feel comfortable putting a great SQ system in. So after lots of searching and research on the site I decided to go with HAT speakers. Below is what I have in mind (ordering by Friday with your input). First off my car is an 09 Nissan Maxima. It has the stock Bose system with the monochrome display (nasty). What I already have: 1. Headunit: Sony GS600BT (this will allow me to still have iphone controls) 2. Axxess ASWC steering wheel controls 3. JL Audio CP210-W0v3 (vented box made by JL Audio with 2 10W0) ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT DIRECTION THIS SHOULD FACE AND ANY CREATIVE USE OF THE VENT IN THE BOX? I HAVE THE SKI OPENING BETWEEN THE REAR SEATS. 4. JL Audio XD 600/1 for the subs What I am planning on purchasing. 5. JBL MS-8 for crossovers and DSP 6. For the current 4" opening in the dash - Legatia L3SE 7. For the front door - Legatia Midrange/midbase? Clarus C61-2? 8. Rear door midbass? 9. The Maxima also has a center channel that I am open to suggestions on. 10. All powered by an JL Audio HD600/4? 11. Rammat everywhere especially front doors and trunk for starters. So here is where I need help. I am still new to the active/passive and 2-way and 3-way setup part of car audio. From what I understand I can use the MS-8 for my crossover. If I use the Legatia L3S in the dash they could function as a coax (would adding a center channel help? Would I still benefit from using the Clarus C61-2 woofer and tweeter or should I just get something that doesn't include a tweeter? If you recommend still using the tweeter, where is the best location if I am still using the L3S's in the dash? I want to try has hard as possible for my system to be heard and not seen. Keeping it looking factory as possible would be great. I am also open to other speaker suggestions if buying them separate from PartsExpress makes more since.
  19. Hi All, I'm putting together a sweet 10 channel active system in a new Tesla Model 3 that's fairly complex, and I want to make sure there is a single volume and bass knob. My favorite so far is the JL Audio DRC-200 because it has both volume and bass control in one unit, but the trick is getting it to work like I want - help! There are basically two input groups (via DSP presets) going into a AudioControl DM-810 DSP. The first is the car's stock signal via high level inputs, and the second is a hi-res source via Optical. I was thinking to put a JL Audio Fix 86 before the AudioControl DM-810 so the JL unit can control volume, but that will only work for the stock signal. The Fix 86 doesn't have an optical in like the DM-810 does, so the knob won't be able to control the hi-res source like I need it to in that configuration. If I use just the DM-810 for everything, I'll have a unified volume knob by using the AudioControl ACR-3 knob but it has no bass knob (i.e. it's just one control, not two). Do you have any ideas for how I can pull off using the JL DRC-200 for everything? The closest thing I can think of will add a lot of cost, and I'd lose two output channels by going from 10 down to just 8. This would involve putting a JL Audio TwK 88 after the DM-810. That way the DM-810 could flatten factory signal (like the Fix 86 would have) for the stock signal, which the TwK 88 would then tune with its EQ. On the hi-res side, the DM-810 would tune audio and then just pass through the TwK 88 without any changes. With the TwK 88 last in the chain, I would be able to pass everything through the DRC-200 knob, but putting the TwK 88 last means I'd only have 8 output channels rather than the 10 I need coming off the DM-810. If it were possible to put the TwK 88 before the DM-810, that would be great, but there aren't any high level inputs on the DM-810. This could technically be solved if I used a Fix 86 before a TwK 88 and then the DM-810, but that seems like such a HUGE waste of money and equipment. If you could let me know any better idea to get the DRC-200 to work, I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks! -Eggz
  20. Summary: 08 Silverado, ext cab, 5.3L. Walled off with seats in comfortable positions (not straight up and down like some dedicated walls). This will be a daily driver still. I don't want a system that ONLY hits low end, I dont listen to purely boosted music, i want a system that can do well on a variety of music. Basically a system any passenger can throw on their phone on the aux and listen to what they want and sound good and loud. Goals for System: I have a few goals, anything above that is a plus. * Very musical like from 27hz to 50 hz or so * Crazy Hair-tricks * Nasty lows that you hear from blocks away * 153s Amps: Either of the following combinations (help me decide) looking to stay below 2 grand for amps (mind you these numbers arent including any rises, these are the top of the spectrum at absolutely max power, voltage and unlikely circumstance but why not account for these anyways ) * B2M1u - Running at 0.5Ω daily & burping (4950w @ 14.4v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two Crescendo5500 - Running at 1Ω daily & Burping (2900w @ 13.8v per sub theorycrafting) $2000 * Two SoundQubed3500 - 8600w @ 14.4v - running at 1Ω daily & 0.25Ω burping (2150w @ 14.4 daily & 7000w @ 14.4v burping per sub theorycrafting) $1200 Subs: Four SoundQubed HDC4-15s Charging System: Triple Alt bracket, stock alt for regular electrical and two 300+Amp alts for audio system. (recommendations on alts for this system?) also will probably run ext regulated so I can run a 16v audio electrical More details on Electrical: All electrical will be in a waterproof toolbox in the back of the bed under a soft top. Hole cut in the bottom or back to allow access for wires into cab. * 6 banks of 8 caps per bank. (maybe more banks) * 2 runs of 1/0 for power off each alt to rear * Dual inputs on both amps for 4 runs total of both power and ground * Alternator grounds going straight to strut mount brace for a vehicle grounding. * All grounds in rear from cap bank/amps going straight to frame Fusing: * All 4 runs off alternators being fused in back before connecting to cap banks. * Fuse between cap banks and amps * Any other places I'm forgetting? Random Details: I would like to leave about 1/4 to 1/3 of the toolbox free for actual storage for like a bag of fuses, drill, and other random tools for comps. I dont have toolbox yet but will get one that fits under the soft top and leaves enough room for me to load my motorcycle up with the tailgate down. So all in all does this sound like its pretty well planned out or is there some major changes i need to make? Heres my truck in all her glory
  21. I was wondering if http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67769_Rockford-Fosgate-P600X4.html would be good for starter SQ amp for mids? I'm new so take it easy on me lol
  22. What are your suggestions guys? I want to keep it as cheap as I can, no budget yet... Thinking about Rockford because I've never had a problem with them, they're cheap, and have great reviews. I was thinking an R500x1D for 2 R2D4 12's and not sure on door speakers and for the headunit, maybe a cheap KDC-155u. I don't really want to have to power the door speakers from an amp because I'd need a better radio for more RCA outputs. For wiring I was thinking a 4g kit from Knu. But another bad thing is the soft top convertible, won't too much air leak or would it be ok? Thanks for the suggestions ahead of time...
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