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Back when cheating was a good thing? Yeah, in the 90's, some organizations used 4 ohm stereo wattage to divide competition classes. How could you "cheat" the system? Get an amp rated for high current, low impedance operation. Today I'm going to discuss the Old School SPL challenge and the details. I'll also show a couple of (lame) SPL runs with a Lanzar 50c (50 watt) and Crossfire CFA-30HC (60 watt). This is all for fun, but feel free to join in by taking some of those old school amps off the wall and joining in on the fun! See more about Old School SPL Challenge: https://www.oldschoolstereo.com https://www.is.gd/osspl2019 Search for these amps for sale: Lanzar 50c: https://is.gd/lanzar50cebay Crossfire 30HC: https://is.gd/crossfire30hcebay See playlist of Amp Dyno Drag Races: https://is.gd/ampdynodragraces See my other videos on Old School Cheater Amps: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6519F5277A57F8BA

Hi! I'm rebuilding my Punto for next year events. I bought it 5 years ago so let's start from there: First system including Ultimate T2 12" subwoofer, Twister TW1000 "1000W" amplifier and Hertz low end 6,5" coaxials and JVC head unit. Then there was Pioneer DEH-P5100UB head unit, better Hertz 6,5" coaxials with Focus Acoustics Formula FX-4150 amplifier, SPL Dynamics XTR-380D2S 15" subwoofer, Focus Acoustics Formula FX-1500D 1500W amplifier and Optima 55Ah battery. In the next step I upgraded speakers to 6,5" Hertz Energy ESK163L.4 3-way component system, made bigger and better subwoofer box, added 20Ah BSB battery and some tuning parts. Next I changed Kenwood KDC-BT92SD head unit, added another set of 6,5" Hertz Energy ESK163L.4 3-way component system speakers to rear, changed FX-4150 amplifier to SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 and 15" XTR subwoofer to Focus Acoustics Black MK5 15D2 15". Then I upgraded the whole system and started to work with the interior. New system: Optima YELLOW TOP 55Ah and 38Ah batteries Focus Acoustics FX-2500D 2500W amplifier Focus Acoustics Black MK5 15D2 15" subwoofers x2 SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 amplifiers x2 Hertz ESK163L.4 component speaker systems x2 SPL Dynamics SPL-HD25T Horn Loaded Compressor Tweeters x2 Match PP72W-D subwoofers as midbasses at front x4 To be continued in new post

Hey guys im doing my first build 3 skar evl 15s dvc 2ohm on a ts 3.5 I was gonna do a flat wall but everyone I know personally who does comps says if this is for me anf not for comps I need to do a fourth order cause it's more musical and has more bandwidth i wanna do demos but really i just love bass I've tried bass box 6 and win isd and on regular ported walls it wasnt a problem to get good response on the graph but when I try it with the 4th order calc no matter what i do I cant get the tuning right i want it tuned where its peaking between 32 and 55 Hz tops I don't know a bunch about it all i know is i love bass and I am a noob to all competitors I've read over an hour a day for 9 months and finally got the basics but still know nothing theres so much to learn but im dedicated i got everything for it ho alt batts subs amp and all power cable ran but cant build the box correctly cause i cant do the specs and don't wanna mess up the subs from doing it wrong I know it's time consuming and has no benefit to you but if someone could please help id be eternally grateful the box max external specs are 42d 36h 40w so it leaves plenty of room for the 2:1. And the subs rec enclosure are 3.5-3.75 sealed 3.5-4.0. Ported thanks so much for even reading this ridiculously long post if someone would help I will build and show results so they can know there time wasnt wasted -hooplah-

So im building my first spl vehicle and im trying to decide what box to build. now i have made a couplke of posts on here before asking the same question and the general answer was test test test. so i put dual 10s in a sealed box and tried a bunch of different locations doing sweeps. the following is what i got: 129 @ 59hz subs pointing back @ the back 130.5 @ 56 Same config same volume 127.8 @ 56 Subs pointing back @ front of vehicle 128 @ 58 Same [email protected] 65 Subs poiting forward @ back of vehicle 128 @ 64 same 124.4 @ 57 subs forward midway up 120.6 @ 63 subs forward @ front of vhecle 128.9 @ 65 Subs poitning back as far back as it could go 130.4 @ 58 subs pointing back midway up vehicle so i was hoping to get some suggestions on what type of box i should build. i have 2 12" aa Havocs and its going into a 1992 mazda 323 hatchback. the one box i was thinking about doing was suggested to me through user jeep&bass. it was subs and port all firing forward. so i was thinking of trying that but facing the rear of the vehicle. so if anyone has any other suggestions of something that might work well in here i am all ears! Thanks!!!!!

Hey guys its been way to cold to do anything. Quick question 3 to 1 ratio over 2 to 1 ? just looking for opinions....trying for pure spl thanks again.

i saw this the other day lol very clean in stall. sounded amazing haahhahahaaha like nails on a chalkboard or cats burning alive. he was only clipping a little bit. it might have sounded horrible but it was so loud u get dizzy next to it lol i never want to here or see it again

I have a 2014 Sierra crew can, and i have listed my seats 3" higher with steel tubing and grade 8 bolts.i did this to build the best and buffer box for this truck. I previously had 2 sundown x8 prior to me lifting the seats and i want to make something better that i can really feel. What's the best subs and what size that i can put in my truck to get deeper lows? Should i go with 4 8s, 2 10s, or 2 12s?

Hey so i'm new to the spl competition world and want to ask a few questions. So i have a jetta wagon and have a 39" by 24" by 15" area in my trunk for a box (that will keep the port if facing back about 5 inches from the hatch.) So i was wondering what woofer size and # of woofers i should run to have the most out put? What i can think of so far is 2 12's 1 15 2 15's - (maby like SA 15's or Z 15's who like smaller boxes) 1 18 (will probably get around 6 cubes max after port displacement) aero or slot also i plan on running 2 batteries in total and one amp AQ2200D for now (3500 if i can get a HO alt) I have ran one 15" and scored a 144 Db and now have a daily box with two 15's but is above the window line so i cant compete. so the last question i ask is what classes can i compete in if i have 2 batteries no wall and with the variably being the # and size of woofers? If you can answer any of this and have advice from a vet it would be much appreciated.

Long time no post guys, Hopefully someone can help me tune this 6th order. My gross dimensions are (rear chamber) 6.58 cuft and (front chamber) is 4.17 cuft. These dims do not include woofer displacement. I would like to use 6" aeros for porting if possible. Now what do I tune the rear chamber @ and what do I tune my front chamber to? Please help me. thank you in advance

I am slowly putting together my American Bass system. I have 2 AB TNT 12s and will be getting 2 more and 2 AB VFL 100.1s and will be rebuilding a 4 12 enclosure. The box I have now is temporary and was used to test the aero ported style enclosure. Really dig how low this mofo goes. I plan on doing all AB highs and mids too. Slowly but surely this is getting done lol. I tried linking pics of the build from facebook but none of them worked. I will make a youtube vid of the pics and post link later.

im new to the spl world and loving it. i have 4- power acoustik mofo 152s on a hifonics bre2500. I've been to a few spl comps now and was wondering if inverting my subs would change my db rating at all? i haven't saw any cars at comps that have inverted subs so i didn't know if that was a sign, but no one locally can answer my question with a good explanation.

I have 1 Atomic APX 18 D2, Atomics enclosure calculator says to use 6 cft net enclosure with 40 sq inch port 10 inches long, I built this enclosure and is stupid loud!!!! Now my question is this what size round port can i use, and how long to be around the same as the square port? thank you all in advance.

Hello everyone, This is my first post here, or on any forum on the interwebz. Thank you all in advance for any help you can provide. So my old focus hatchback decided to kick the bucket and I purchased a 2012 chrysler 200. Not my first choice of bass car but its nice and they were the only dealership in the Ann Arbor MI are that could get me a reasonable loan. I have 1 Sundown Z v.3 18 that i would love to try to cram in the trunk, i built the box for it that was in my focus but it will not fit in the chrysler so im looking for advice on how to make the proper choices for port size and what not. I do not plan to compete, i like it loud but clear also. Im not a strick audiophile but i can tell whats good and not. I love the lows, feeling the music is the best part but i listen to all sorts of music not just rap so id like to be able to have a bit of range. The trunk has a max height of 14.5 inches (that includes space for the woofer to move), 38" wide at the smallest point and id like to keep it to a max length of 30ish". I obviously dont care about having any trunk space left, thats why we have back seats right? For the time being ill be using my orion hcca 10 in the spec ported box that i paid wayyy to much to have the local shop build a few years ago. Power is a Hifonics Brutus brx 1600, kinetik hc 2000, knukoncepts ofc 1 awg, stock alt, new front batt soon and big 3 soon, there is only the stock crap in the car right now. And i know the amp isnt amazing but it gets the job done. So after the longwindedness you just endured what would yall say is a good port option? 6 to 7 cube box, i know the rule of thumb is 12 to 16 in sqd per foot cubd, id like to be around 32 33 hz. I was think an internal height of about 11", sub mounted up to a single baffle with a second overtop to make it flush and add strength and some 2x4 braces around the cutout. Single baffle everywhere else. My last box i messed up on calculations (first time) and ended up tuned way high but it sounded pretty good, got loud and still played down into the 20s. It is 1.5 inch mdf all around, resind the inside, 45d the corners, bedlined the outside, it weighs more than my gf with a purse full of rocks. Id like to go birch and stain it this time Thank you all again, im open to any and all suggestions. I can post pics too if anyone wants. As an fyi i have no comp to use any box building software since my macbook pro was stolen a year and a half ago so im all website calcs and paper.

Sky High doesn't have a 2/0 ANL fuse holder yet and I have their 2/0 OFC and I'm going to need a fuse holder. I really don't want to buy a 1/0 fuse holder and modify the plastic for it to fit, any other suggestions?

If you got capacitors for your system, post pics of your setup and specs and total watts. I'm looking to do a capacitor setup for a system of 4,000w total peak.

Thought I would share my personal build. Mainly built for Mwspl adv2 and xtrm 3. Soon i'll be testing some woofers in here to see what ends up being loudest. Custom Z4s and NSV3s first. The whole stack goes between 2 builds + 12 more sheets. Starting the shell: Finished up with sides, the top is 3 layers but the second is brought back a few inches for clearances: Start of the back wall, stacked 10" thick: Here i start and finish up the baffles and get to where I am now with finishing the front port. I took about a week to get to the front port when a new project came up that i will share in another thread!

Decided to start a thread about my quest for dbzzzz in my daily driver. I told myself I would not be doing anything big with this car but I am learning not to trust myself with that kind of promise lol! Here is the car's actual build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205951-sotm-build-2000-honda-civic-ex-140db-daily-build/?p=3124379 So I had a little setup in the car that only did 140.8db at about 34hz dB Drag style. Grabbed some equipment from my Jeep (currently being rebuilt) and got some subs to play with from Jeff Vue of JVF Customz. So here is what I'm working with as of December 2016: Car - 2000 Honda Civic Ex 5 Speed w/ sunroof, ac, bla bla bla. Electrical - Stock 70a Alternator, $60 G51R stock under hood battery, Big 3 done with SHCA 4 gauge cca, 4 gauge Xs cca to the rear, G34 battery in the rear. So basically shit for electrical but its kool...but I did get some supercaps! BIGGG help with those. Subs - 2 JVF Customz 3.3 12's, 3" 8 layer coil D1.4, 10" spider???, fat motor (same as my 18's in the Jeep) on 12 spoke. Box - 3.4 cube, subs forward, port forward, 8" aero. Power - 1 DC Audio 3.5k DAT AZZ!! 3.5k with caps in spare tire location. Caps did not get used until later. Decided this was a bad location for the amp so it's going to move asap. Makeshift setup. Box hardly fits and I don't like the subs up at the deck lid. This box is named the "bitch box" mostly because its been in about every "loud" street stock car in NorCal since like 2011. I won West Coast championships with it in 2015. So now lets get on with testing! I'll just post as I go with it!

Does anyone know anybody in the Phoenix area who might be willing to help me by metering the Blazer... Lol... I'd need a way to contact them as well... Please help I do not want to wait till the fall to get it done at Wild Horse Pass... It's not a couple of P3's on a thousand watts!.. I swear!... No disrespect to Rockford fans meant...I just need to find the general cabin resonance and burp it once or twice... please help!

Anyone use line driver for SPL? Does it help? I have RCA output of 4v rms already from my stereo, will it benefit me using this line driver (see below)? Amp is NS1 btw. http://i.seimg.net/images/527551/main/overdrive-gray.jpg http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_28924_AudioControl-OVERDRIVE-OVERDRIVE-PLUS-Gray.html

I have a PowerBass 3XL 15 in a 4.4 cube box tuned at 31Hz, sub up, port back. Up until today, I had two, 4" aero ports and while the higher bass sounded good, my lows were suffering horribly. When I used the calculator and entered my driver size, Xmax and tuning frequency, it recommended 7.45" minimum diameter and 43.56" of port area. The two 4's were only like 25" of port area, so I decided to go with one, 8" port at the same 31Hz, giving me 50" of port area, all much closer to what's recommended. The high bass basically sounds the same, maybe a tiny bit of output loss.... The low bass however, seems to move more air than sound! I can put my ear to the port playing a 30Hz frequency and it sounds like nothing but air to me.... I put my head to the window and my hair is blowing in the breeze, yet I don't hear much in the way of low frequency SOUND. Hard to explain any other way, so I hope everyone gets what I am saying lol. What could be wrong here? Port is about 6" from the hatch. Inner metal, outer metal and plastic paneling is all deadened with 50 mil. GT Mat, yet I still get rattles from all the air movement. The only other thing I changed besides the port size, is I inverted the sub for more air space. I would think this would yield more output, not less? Any input is appreciated, as I just tore apart a really nice looking box, for no output gain what so ever

Okay people so i designed this box last night and i got 5.5 cu ft after displacement. I got 8.78 cu ft before displacement. Is that too much?? Its tuned to 34 hz, subs take up.25 cu ft each and i am going to run 2 12s which are 2000 rms. Port displacement=2.78 cu ft Sub displacement= .50 cu ft Port is double layer starts off as 15" height and is 38.93" in length. The Width of the port is 7.5". Interior width=42.75" Interior length=23.5" Interior height=15" 3/4" thickness And its triple baffle.

hi guys, my name is christian and i am from germany. my english isn´t very good, but i´ve heard this forum here is the biggest car-audio forum of the world and i hope you can help me. sorry for all grammar und writing- mistakes . i´ve used the searching option of this forum here, but there isn´t that what i am searching for. to my question: all of you who installed a wall know the phenomenon, that there isn´t any bass-feeling at deep music when the doors are closed. there is just a bit of wind in the car, but no feeling on the body. but when doors are open you can´t breathe and you are thinking, that you must die, if you know what i mean. i´ve heard a lot of wall buildings in germany and simply three or four car´s here can play deep music with doors closed and there is simply the same feeling inside like doors open. i talked with the designers of this installations, but they wouldn´t talk about it because they spent a lot of time to their enclosures and so they wouldn´t tell other people about. my plan for the future is to build an enclosure with about 10-12 12´s, probably ETON-sub´s and i wouldn´t must open the door´s that i can feel the full power of the sub´s. I will sit in my car, doors and windows closed and will feel the "pain" from high and low frequencies to my body and perhaps to someone who is geting a demo from me. what kind of enclosure is the best for such a plan? 4th order wall, enclousure like gary kilians car or.... or do you think a wall is here not the best thing that i can do, because the deep frequencies can´t spread good in the car with a wall? i would be glad about an answer. thank you for reading this text in this bad english

Selling my Term Lab since i wont be needing it for awhile and im getting money together for a down payment. I bought it brand new and barely use it. $475 Shipped

I have Made a strong double floor/double baffle box with window bracing out of 3/4 MDF just a bit larger than spec . I am using white sewer pipe so I can run the sweep 90's and dual 4" precision port flares top and bottom for a single 12 in a test box and keep changing my tuning, I have a cheapo db meter on the dash while running all my tests. Here's where I need you guys because I'm stumped. So why when I make the ports longer (tuned lower) would my 30 to 35hz range numbers drop? also why when I shorten the ports (tuned higher) would 56-62hz range numbers drop? I also cant figure out why I'm so peaky I have some notes like 40hz almost always falls on its face. Tuned at 31.5 and 32 it dies but tuned at 31 it doesn't? (I'm talking a whole 8db) I also usually have a drop at 42Hz,43hz,and 52hz. I'm just lost as to why the numbers are so jumpy between tests. Why its a steady climb with drops and then back to a steady climb then drops etc. I start at 30hz and go to 62hz during these tests. I honestly always thought the low range to a point would gain at lower tuning while sacrificing some higher notes and vice versa. Can someone tell me from experience in a test box with meter is this normal and how do you decide on a final tune? Is there an easy way to rid myself of the random peaks and drops? Every time I change the tune some numbers go up and some numbers go down but not consistently on either end as you would think. It seems random. I love the 30-40 range Thank you in advance for taking time to read and respond. This place is the best. If anyone can set me straight it will be here.