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Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'spl'.
Found 111 results
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So im building my first spl vehicle and im trying to decide what box to build. now i have made a couplke of posts on here before asking the same question and the general answer was test test test. so i put dual 10s in a sealed box and tried a bunch of different locations doing sweeps. the following is what i got: 129 @ 59hz subs pointing back @ the back 130.5 @ 56 Same config same volume 127.8 @ 56 Subs pointing back @ front of vehicle 128 @ 58 Same 128@ 65 Subs poiting forward @ back of vehicle 128 @ 64 same 124.4 @ 57 subs forward midway up 120.6 @ 63 subs forward @ front of vhecle 128.9 @ 65 Subs poitning back as far back as it could go 130.4 @ 58 subs pointing back midway up vehicle so i was hoping to get some suggestions on what type of box i should build. i have 2 12" aa Havocs and its going into a 1992 mazda 323 hatchback. the one box i was thinking about doing was suggested to me through user jeep&bass. it was subs and port all firing forward. so i was thinking of trying that but facing the rear of the vehicle. so if anyone has any other suggestions of something that might work well in here i am all ears! Thanks!!!!!
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I´ve built and tested over 50 boxes on this explorer since i bought it on 2010, i´ve had a lot of fun doing it, broke tons of records around here and also gave me the knowledge to design a lot of boxes for competitors and even world champions that also own the same awesome truck that i have, but, spending that amount of money, time and effort isn´t practical for me now, so, it´s time for me to build something loud ,low and fun in there without caring At ALL about numbers Car: 1998 4 doors 2 gen Ford Explorer, she´s called the Sexplorer btw lol Electrical: Mechman 270A alternator, XS Power D3100 on front, 4 northstar nsb 110ft on the back for the moment, 2 soundquest 0 GA cca runs for the moment, the plan is, to add 4-8 runs , a second alternator wich i already have at pipo sanchez home and 14v batteries in a few months. Amplifier (subs): Loudforce 10K wired at 1 ohm for the moment, 2 10ks at .5 ohms in a few months Amplifier (mids) : Soundigital 8K at 1 ohm Amplifier (highs) : 2 loudforce lfa-1504s Mids/highs: not sure yet, but tons of them Subwoofers: 8 loudforce 8515s 750 watts 3" VC a piece for the moment, 8 9015s 3200 watts in a few months Box: 4th order bandpass wall , 13 cubic feet sealed / 24 cubic feet ported, port area and tuning will be tested until i found what it works the best, mad props to Dave Leib (strongmandesigns on this forum) , coty eager, dylan kirby, scott bowman, zaim nayor, keith miller and jared gibson for all the inputs, without them, i wouldnt picked up my mind on what sizes i needed to use, i spent more than a week designing this box, wasnt easy at all, specially since i didn´t want to build a shell, wanted a box that i could slide in thru the hatch. THE GOAL!! Easy, want to be able to play a huge bandwith, and of course, play LOW as hell without loosing output on higher frequencies, since 4th order bandpasses tend to have 2 peaks, im trying to get a 23-27 hz peak and a 40-45 hz peak been the higher peak the strongest one, we´ll see! -
Many people sent me some comments and messages on my youtube channel saying that the 2 10s we built last year is the biggest hairtrick they have seen on small cone area so they inspired me to really step it up this time and try to do some nice hairtricks (nothing crazy) on even smaller cone area, but also, on less power and keeping the back seat, i bought myself a 2013 Kia Picanto for daily since i already had 3 audio cars lol, but anyways, this is my 4th car and need to mantein it as stock as i can since i take my kid to school everyday on it. 2 10s hairtricking on a 5k wired at 1 ohm Anyways, we´ll see if we can archive our goal, if not, at least i hope it gets loud on small power and cone area for daily Car: 2013 Kia Picanto Electrical: 2 runs of CCA Soundquest wires, big3 and a single Stinger SPV35 battery, stock alternator Mids/highs: 2 Massive Ma6 mids and 2 Massive T50 bullet tweeters, OEM front speakers on the dash since the car doesnt even have door speakers Amplifier for mids/highs: Tiny little small Stetsom VS400.4 Amplifier for subs: American Bass VFL120.1 wired at 1 ohm Subwoofers: x2 Massive Hippo 84 Box: 4th order bandpass
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So I recently build a box and installed my two Sundown X15's D4 wires to 1oh with a Hifonics 3200 watt amp pushing them. The box was designed by caraudiofab it is 8.5 cubes tuned to 32hz the port is currently facing the read barn doors in my Escalade. The setup isn't really pushing much air which I'm kind of depressed about. I am looking at options to move more air!! I was thinking of turning this box around so the port is facing the front of the car? Right now the port is about 8 inches away from the back doors which I don't feel like it is enough room? This is my first build and I don't have any friends that do this so I'm just guessing at this point. I did have my system tuned at a local car audio shop which helped quite a bit but I'm still not super impressed with the SPL. This is the Box I am using below. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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If you got capacitors for your system, post pics of your setup and specs and total watts. I'm looking to do a capacitor setup for a system of 4,000w total peak.
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Decided to start a thread about my quest for dbzzzz in my daily driver. I told myself I would not be doing anything big with this car but I am learning not to trust myself with that kind of promise lol! Here is the car's actual build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205951-sotm-build-2000-honda-civic-ex-140db-daily-build/?p=3124379 So I had a little setup in the car that only did 140.8db at about 34hz dB Drag style. Grabbed some equipment from my Jeep (currently being rebuilt) and got some subs to play with from Jeff Vue of JVF Customz. So here is what I'm working with as of December 2016: Car - 2000 Honda Civic Ex 5 Speed w/ sunroof, ac, bla bla bla. Electrical - Stock 70a Alternator, $60 G51R stock under hood battery, Big 3 done with SHCA 4 gauge cca, 4 gauge Xs cca to the rear, G34 battery in the rear. So basically shit for electrical but its kool...but I did get some supercaps! BIGGG help with those. Subs - 2 JVF Customz 3.3 12's, 3" 8 layer coil D1.4, 10" spider???, fat motor (same as my 18's in the Jeep) on 12 spoke. Box - 3.4 cube, subs forward, port forward, 8" aero. Power - 1 DC Audio 3.5k DAT AZZ!! 3.5k with caps in spare tire location. Caps did not get used until later. Decided this was a bad location for the amp so it's going to move asap. Makeshift setup. Box hardly fits and I don't like the subs up at the deck lid. This box is named the "bitch box" mostly because its been in about every "loud" street stock car in NorCal since like 2011. I won West Coast championships with it in 2015. So now lets get on with testing! I'll just post as I go with it!
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Does anyone know anybody in the Phoenix area who might be willing to help me by metering the Blazer... Lol... I'd need a way to contact them as well... Please help I do not want to wait till the fall to get it done at Wild Horse Pass... It's not a couple of P3's on a thousand watts!.. I swear!... No disrespect to Rockford fans meant...I just need to find the general cabin resonance and burp it once or twice... please help!
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I am wondering if anyone has personally seen a setup with 3 12" subs of any brand hit really big #'s in SPL . How loud can 3 12's get? I haven't been to a show in years and in 1997 152 db was extreme at local shows. What is loud nowadays? With music or test tones what have you seen? In a wall, SUV or what? I'm pretty sure that times have changed and someone has 3 alternators charging 10 batteries with crazy power on 3 12" subs? I'd like to hear what anyone has seen. New to the forum, but started IASCA in Az in 1994.... been raising kids and working until lately.
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I live in central NC, and there isnt much audio wise around here. The only big show in driving range for me is the Sundown show. I know they're out of Claremont, but where is the actual show at? I cant find anything on it for 2017. It may be the same as last year, but I just wanted to make sure. Also, if anyone knows of any audio shows around central NC or even NC in general, let me know. Thanks everyone
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There's a guy in my town selling a Aerostar for super cheap and I just wanted to know if anybody has experience with these and know how it will preform for spl?
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This is how we wake the dead in Europe! 20hz, 25hz, 33hz & 40hz bass quakes from the Netherlands! (propper-droppers)
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Looking for anyone that can provide dimensions and a cut sheet list for a single sundown audio zv4 15. Wanting around a 7 cubic foot box, The box will be in a 1995 Yukon so I have a good bit of space to work with as far as measurements go, don't have exact measurements off the top of my head. Any help would be nice.
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Ok so i need advice from the pro's for my build! I currently have 2 12's in a 6 Cube ported box, now in order to make more room for my aux batteries and 4 channel amp i will be adding i was wondering if this would be the one exception to front firing a subwoofer box. I was going to build a platform to set the box on which would leave no gap between the roof and the box, I was also going to seal the 2 inchs on each side off as well. So in this repect i could put my batteries and four channel underneath the sub box by letting the platfoor have a higher back the subs would be above the rear seats pointing forward would this result in a good positioning of the subs i currently have the subs facing up[ and ports up i would of liked to have subs up ports back but i would of been choking them off if i would of done so. Its ok if its a fucked idea i can handle it.
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what would be a good 21 to go in my wall. not too worried about music just spl. what does everyone recommend and why?
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Hello all! This will be my first build (or re-build) log, that i have ever made, but i will try my best to keep it on certain a level. A little about me: I'm 18 year old, living in Denmark (little country above Germany), and i am still studying Had my car for a year now, and my license for 8 months. The first 4 months, i made my first stereo ever, in my own car off course. But, about a month ago, i decided to make it bigger, and better. In all i did 4 full stereo, including my own, a year ago, and i did some helping, made some enclosures, and so, so i am still an absolute newbie. About my car: It is a Renault Clio II, from 2002. I (or one of my friends) have named it Boris The Boom Boom Bil (Bil is danish for car, heads the title) It is an automatic, which i absolutely love, because it hurts my knee to drive a stick shift - even though i know how to It is not very big, or very pretty, but it hasn't done many kilometers (58.000 at this point) , it has full service history, and it was in my budget. Some quick pictures of it My old stereo contained of: HU - Clarion CZ703E Amplifier - Audio System R105.4 Front stage - Audison Prima APX 130 Subwoofer - Gladen SQX10 All stinger Cables. Here's a picture of the components, taken with a potato basiacly Now to the re-build I would like to start with the new equipment, because that is always a good start. The new stereo will contain: HU - Clarion CZ703E Amplifier 1 - Audio System R105.4 Amplifier 2 - Audio System R1250.1D Front stage - Massive Audio CK6X Subwoofer - SSA GCON-15 Now, why did i go with this? Well, i kept the HU because, that is what i have budget for right now. I would like to upgrade because it is not the best, but it works - Sometimes at least Then i too kept the 4 channel amplifier, which i will use for the front stage, bridged into 2 channels, each at 350watt RMS, which should be efficient. It is a decent amplifier, which is not to expensive, and it actually sounds rather good. I bought a Audio System R1250.1D because i would need WAAAY more power for my new subwoofer. It is rated at 1250watt 1 ohm, which i will be running it in, so i can push the SSA to the limit, and now i know that i do not go down on power. I chose to do Audio System again, because i am positive about my older one. The Massive Audio i bought because i heard them play once, and they played, LOUD, and clear, while still keeping some level of SQ - which is not to forgot. The subwoofer was pretty much a guess, because i have never ever seen one before in Denmark where i live. I looked around online, then talked a little to the guys who runs SSA, and ended up giving it a try, and even now, on nothing more than 300watt i absolutely love it. As you might already guessed - i build the subwoofer, and installed it already.. I have build a 125litre enclosure (without displacement), and tuned it at 30hz. The enclosure have been stiffened (is this a word?) on the inside - the stiffening (again?) is off course rounded over for air flow The port is too rounded over - even though you can not tell from the pictures, they were taken before i did it
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I'm currently running two dd 712s on a soundstream t1.4000DL with skyhigh 2/0 amp kits as well as a DC 270a alt. I'm currently metering 143.7 and would like to know what my best course of action is to get as close to or go over 150dB as I can. Any tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated
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Alright so I have the opportunity to trade my 4 kicker comp 15's for a zv4 12 from sundown. I don't know if it would be worth it. I'm running the four 15's with a 1000w Memphis amp at 1ohm since the kickers rms are 250w each. In a Tahoe if that matters.
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Fairly nooby to car audio, and I searched the forum but couldn't find anything on this. What differentiates a SPL sub, to a SQ Sub? Meaning - what makes a sub one or the other? OR a hybrid? I currently have a beginner audio system in my trunk car and am told my Alpine Type S is an SQ sub. Judging by the size of the motor/cone design I'd tend to agree as it's only rated at 500wrms. What characteristics should you look for to differentiate the two? Thanks
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http://www.emfcaraudio.com/blog/emf-summer-nationals-2016/
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Carpeted box vs painted box for better spl?
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I merged 2 threads and things got a little screwed up lol So I added Johns first post to his right here : This is the official thread for the Tahoe build off we hope you enjoy these builds as much as we do! So we are doing a little friendly competition between Sky High and DC Audio. A few things fell into place and we ended up having GM SUVS dropped off at the same time so we decided to make some fun out of it. Rusty, his team, and DC Audios build will consist of the DC Audio Yukon 4 M1 LVL 6 18s with the aluminum baskets. 4 DC Audio 5Ks and a B pillar wall; just to name a few things. The Sky High's Tahoe will have 6 Lvl 6 m2 18s with aluminum cone and 4 DC 10ks in a B pillar wall. Rusty and I (Jon) will be both posting pics along the road to crushing every other Tahoe on the west coast. DC Audio and Sky High have a pretty good and close knit relationship if you guys did not know. This is a friendly build and we are only out to have fun and get some recognition out there for the amazing products going into the builds. So please enjoy the builds and your input is greatly appreciated. See you at Lake County Car Audio with both these builds for the finale!! And Mine starts here - So Alot of you might remember the DC Yukon, Well its at the shop and were going to wall it. Not 100% sure what the plan is but for right now I just removed everything so i can start to measure out the shell. its got for gear (well before I took it all out) (2) 175.4 (4) 5.0 (4) M1 Lv6's (2) Alts (2) Strong Stinger 2150's, The rest of the 2150s are dead and will need to be replaced. The Yukon sat for a while and the battery's are now toast So Im not sure if it will go flat wall, clam shell, 4th order, 6th order. Part of it will depend on the square footage we end up with. On with pics of my progress today
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Working on my SPL wall build, currently playing with the box internals and have been reading up on things. I have been working with SPL setups for about a year now and still have lots to learn. My question is what are are non-pressure and pressure points in a box/wall and how do I find them. Also, is it truly beneficial to put for 45's/roundovers in them or to kep them square? Currently working with 2 Soundqubed HDC3 18's on a DC 3.5K in my 2 door Jeep. Have not clamped it yet. Does 156.7db @ 51hz at the moment pretty consistently.
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almost walled 350z 1 DC audio 3.5k 2x DC audio level 4 m2 15" Box tuned to 32 HZ 3x runs 0 gauge deck pioneer 4100 3x Alpine type R 6.5 components EQ/line driver > phoenix gold eq215x other amps 2x old alpine mrv f300 v12 amps 1 new apline pdx f4 1 classic phonenix gold MS2250 special edition 2x xs power D3400 cut cut
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A little word of me - I am a 19-year-old basshead from Bulgaria. I've been following SMD for at least 2 or 3 years, but I decided to register last year. My main hobby is car audio, but i like computers, electronics and other stuff. I'm studying International Economic Relations at the moment - it's my first year at university. I work on the car whenever I can save money for it, so it's a pretty slow build. Nothing fancy, but I have plans for making things a lot better when I have the time and money. I also like to do things by myself - I enjoy the process of learning new things along the way. The car itself is a 3-door Opel Corsa B 97' hatchback with 1.0, 3-cylinder engine - yeah, I know, pretty slow It has a 55 amp alternator and a 44ah Varta Blue battery - planning on upgrading them soon (along with many other stuff). The headunit is Pioneer deh-6900IB that I got for cheap. I didn't have the money for an active HU, but i definitely want to buy one soon - tired of amp and passive crossover restrictions... I have two amps - one 4 channel for my front stage and GZHA 1.1800dxii for the sub. For the front I use SB acoustics tweeters - mounted in fiberglass spheres on the A-pillars (pictures later) ran through the 4-channel amp with DIY passive crossovers. I have PHD 6.5" midbass/midwoofers (pretty old model) but haven't hooked them up yet. I have bought everything needed for making a 0,3-0,4 cu.ft. (around 10 litres) fiberglass sealed enclosures in the doors, but i will deal with them after the winter. Temporarily I use the OEM front door speakers that have no midbass at all, but deliver good midrange. The lack of midbass is mainly due to the lack of deadening (again, money issue). I have 2 layers of cheap bitumen deadener on the inside of one of the doors, but haven't sealed the holes on the other sheet. I also have 4 layers of deadener on the hatch door and have tightened it down, but I continue to break the back wiper (maybe because i use cheap ones), so I have to figure something out for the flex. The subwoofer I use is a Ground Zero GZRW 30spl Extreme. I have tested out many enclosures, but right now it is in a 83 liter (2,93 cu.ft.) enclosure tuned at 33hz. I plan on cutting the port to increase the tune to 35hz and after the winter to build a 100 liter (3,5 cu.ft.) tuned to 34-36hz. When I bought the woofer it was damaged (coil had bottomed out) and it made screachy noises at higher xmax. That's why I couldn't reach its potential - I was scared not to damage it more. Last week I got a fresh recone on it, so now it plays A LOT better - no more noises and power restrictions Last month I was at my first competition, getting 2nd place in the 12" cattegory (they take into account scores and instalation quality/creativity). Meter on dash, doors closed, car NOT running - only on battery power (44ah lead acid battery) on their test song - 142 @ 44hz. Same thing with doors open - 141,7 @ 40hz. Meter on dash again, driver's door open, car running, my music - 143,5 @ 41hz. The scores were with the damaged woofer and a 71 liter (2,5 cu.ft.) enclosure tuned at 35hz. Didn't have the opportunity to test scores on different frequencies or to find my peak. Now with the repaired woofer, with a new battery and good deadening I want to achieve 145 @ 38-42hz. Hopefully I would be able to do it after a couple of months. I'll post the pics I have in the next post and I will update the topic whenever I have something going on. Any input is appreciated! -
I have recently just purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 12" inch sub. I want to build a box but not really sure if it's best to stay within the manufactures recommended dimensions of .75 to 1.25 for a sealed box. And then the subject of what provides better sound, from a box thats taller than long, or longer than tall. Then the subject of facing the sub towards the back seat or out into the trunk. Can some one help me out? I'm very knowledgeable to car audio, just not at going beyond manufacturers recommended volume and trunks.
