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Hi! I'm rebuilding my Punto for next year events. I bought it 5 years ago so let's start from there: First system including Ultimate T2 12" subwoofer, Twister TW1000 "1000W" amplifier and Hertz low end 6,5" coaxials and JVC head unit. Then there was Pioneer DEH-P5100UB head unit, better Hertz 6,5" coaxials with Focus Acoustics Formula FX-4150 amplifier, SPL Dynamics XTR-380D2S 15" subwoofer, Focus Acoustics Formula FX-1500D 1500W amplifier and Optima 55Ah battery. In the next step I upgraded speakers to 6,5" Hertz Energy ESK163L.4 3-way component system, made bigger and better subwoofer box, added 20Ah BSB battery and some tuning parts. Next I changed Kenwood KDC-BT92SD head unit, added another set of 6,5" Hertz Energy ESK163L.4 3-way component system speakers to rear, changed FX-4150 amplifier to SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 and 15" XTR subwoofer to Focus Acoustics Black MK5 15D2 15". Then I upgraded the whole system and started to work with the interior. New system: Optima YELLOW TOP 55Ah and 38Ah batteries Focus Acoustics FX-2500D 2500W amplifier Focus Acoustics Black MK5 15D2 15" subwoofers x2 SPL Dynamics ICE-150.4 amplifiers x2 Hertz ESK163L.4 component speaker systems x2 SPL Dynamics SPL-HD25T Horn Loaded Compressor Tweeters x2 Match PP72W-D subwoofers as midbasses at front x4 To be continued in new post

I have Made a strong double floor/double baffle box with window bracing out of 3/4 MDF just a bit larger than spec . I am using white sewer pipe so I can run the sweep 90's and dual 4" precision port flares top and bottom for a single 12 in a test box and keep changing my tuning, I have a cheapo db meter on the dash while running all my tests. Here's where I need you guys because I'm stumped. So why when I make the ports longer (tuned lower) would my 30 to 35hz range numbers drop? also why when I shorten the ports (tuned higher) would 56-62hz range numbers drop? I also cant figure out why I'm so peaky I have some notes like 40hz almost always falls on its face. Tuned at 31.5 and 32 it dies but tuned at 31 it doesn't? (I'm talking a whole 8db) I also usually have a drop at 42Hz,43hz,and 52hz. I'm just lost as to why the numbers are so jumpy between tests. Why its a steady climb with drops and then back to a steady climb then drops etc. I start at 30hz and go to 62hz during these tests. I honestly always thought the low range to a point would gain at lower tuning while sacrificing some higher notes and vice versa. Can someone tell me from experience in a test box with meter is this normal and how do you decide on a final tune? Is there an easy way to rid myself of the random peaks and drops? Every time I change the tune some numbers go up and some numbers go down but not consistently on either end as you would think. It seems random. I love the 30-40 range Thank you in advance for taking time to read and respond. This place is the best. If anyone can set me straight it will be here.

Okay people so i designed this box last night and i got 5.5 cu ft after displacement. I got 8.78 cu ft before displacement. Is that too much?? Its tuned to 34 hz, subs take up.25 cu ft each and i am going to run 2 12s which are 2000 rms. Port displacement=2.78 cu ft Sub displacement= .50 cu ft Port is double layer starts off as 15" height and is 38.93" in length. The Width of the port is 7.5". Interior width=42.75" Interior length=23.5" Interior height=15" 3/4" thickness And its triple baffle.

Can someone help me out with this I’ve been reading for days and can’t find the answer I’m looking for. I bought to sa12’s I’m having a box built by high output enclosures I just can’t figure out if I want to to go 2.25 cubes per sub or 2.5 per sub net. I know I want subs up port back. It’s going in a 4 door Jeep Wrangler. I’m pushing them with scv2000 at 1ohm. I’ve done big 3 , 240 amp alternator , and xsd3400 battery. I’d highly appreciate it if anyone who knows what they’re doing can give me some advice on what they think. Thank you.

So I have a zv3 12 now. Im upgrading parts to a 15" zv4 frame, zv4 spl soft parts/zv4 coil, and night shade spider. Im only keeping the zv3 motor. I am looking for a zv3, any size, 10 through 18. I just need the motor, also if its blown or working, i still want it. Id rather get a blown one for the price difference though. If you have a blown zv3 or know anyone with even just a zv3 motor, let me know. Thanks guys

I´ve built and tested over 50 boxes on this explorer since i bought it on 2010, i´ve had a lot of fun doing it, broke tons of records around here and also gave me the knowledge to design a lot of boxes for competitors and even world champions that also own the same awesome truck that i have, but, spending that amount of money, time and effort isn´t practical for me now, so, it´s time for me to build something loud ,low and fun in there without caring At ALL about numbers Car: 1998 4 doors 2 gen Ford Explorer, she´s called the Sexplorer btw lol Electrical: Mechman 270A alternator, XS Power D3100 on front, 4 northstar nsb 110ft on the back for the moment, 2 soundquest 0 GA cca runs for the moment, the plan is, to add 4-8 runs , a second alternator wich i already have at pipo sanchez home and 14v batteries in a few months. Amplifier (subs): Loudforce 10K wired at 1 ohm for the moment, 2 10ks at .5 ohms in a few months Amplifier (mids) : Soundigital 8K at 1 ohm Amplifier (highs) : 2 loudforce lfa-1504s Mids/highs: not sure yet, but tons of them Subwoofers: 8 loudforce 8515s 750 watts 3" VC a piece for the moment, 8 9015s 3200 watts in a few months Box: 4th order bandpass wall , 13 cubic feet sealed / 24 cubic feet ported, port area and tuning will be tested until i found what it works the best, mad props to Dave Leib (strongmandesigns on this forum) , coty eager, dylan kirby, scott bowman, zaim nayor, keith miller and jared gibson for all the inputs, without them, i wouldnt picked up my mind on what sizes i needed to use, i spent more than a week designing this box, wasnt easy at all, specially since i didn´t want to build a shell, wanted a box that i could slide in thru the hatch. THE GOAL!! Easy, want to be able to play a huge bandwith, and of course, play LOW as hell without loosing output on higher frequencies, since 4th order bandpasses tend to have 2 peaks, im trying to get a 23-27 hz peak and a 40-45 hz peak been the higher peak the strongest one, we´ll see!

I recently bought a crescendo 3500 for my hd12s and noticed that the clipping light turns on at a certain volume I haven’t tuned my amps but I don’t notice or here and distortion I have it on my daily driver, i never really tuned any of my past systems yet never had a problem with distortion/clipping does it matter if I get a little clipping in my system?

I’m buying 4 2ohm subs yet I’m putting them in two separate boxes I’m going to wire it down to 1 ohm but the problem is how would I do it since there’s two separate boxes?

Okay guys.. I’m wanting to fit 2 American bass hd 12s in between the seats of my Single Cab.. no I can’t do a blowthrough.. because I don’t want to cut a hole in the cab just Incase I sell the truck at one point in time. They will be wired up at a vfl450.1.. Im willing to go to the roof I just want to get some ideas. THANKS YALL

I have a 2014 Sierra crew can, and i have listed my seats 3" higher with steel tubing and grade 8 bolts.i did this to build the best and buffer box for this truck. I previously had 2 sundown x8 prior to me lifting the seats and i want to make something better that i can really feel. What's the best subs and what size that i can put in my truck to get deeper lows? Should i go with 4 8s, 2 10s, or 2 12s?

So im building my first spl vehicle and im trying to decide what box to build. now i have made a couplke of posts on here before asking the same question and the general answer was test test test. so i put dual 10s in a sealed box and tried a bunch of different locations doing sweeps. the following is what i got: 129 @ 59hz subs pointing back @ the back 130.5 @ 56 Same config same volume 127.8 @ 56 Subs pointing back @ front of vehicle 128 @ 58 Same [email protected] 65 Subs poiting forward @ back of vehicle 128 @ 64 same 124.4 @ 57 subs forward midway up 120.6 @ 63 subs forward @ front of vhecle 128.9 @ 65 Subs poitning back as far back as it could go 130.4 @ 58 subs pointing back midway up vehicle so i was hoping to get some suggestions on what type of box i should build. i have 2 12" aa Havocs and its going into a 1992 mazda 323 hatchback. the one box i was thinking about doing was suggested to me through user jeep&bass. it was subs and port all firing forward. so i was thinking of trying that but facing the rear of the vehicle. so if anyone has any other suggestions of something that might work well in here i am all ears! Thanks!!!!!

Im really curious if you guys were going to build a van with a big setup (160+) for demos, to be musical around town etc. The van has to look good and still be very very driveable. What type of van would you use and why? Also would like to know what your favourite vans are that are currently competing or have in the past? Favourite by looks, favourite by their setup, or favourite because a mixture of both. The more pics the merrier.... Thanks for your time

Many people sent me some comments and messages on my youtube channel saying that the 2 10s we built last year is the biggest hairtrick they have seen on small cone area so they inspired me to really step it up this time and try to do some nice hairtricks (nothing crazy) on even smaller cone area, but also, on less power and keeping the back seat, i bought myself a 2013 Kia Picanto for daily since i already had 3 audio cars lol, but anyways, this is my 4th car and need to mantein it as stock as i can since i take my kid to school everyday on it. 2 10s hairtricking on a 5k wired at 1 ohm Anyways, we´ll see if we can archive our goal, if not, at least i hope it gets loud on small power and cone area for daily Car: 2013 Kia Picanto Electrical: 2 runs of CCA Soundquest wires, big3 and a single Stinger SPV35 battery, stock alternator Mids/highs: 2 Massive Ma6 mids and 2 Massive T50 bullet tweeters, OEM front speakers on the dash since the car doesnt even have door speakers Amplifier for mids/highs: Tiny little small Stetsom VS400.4 Amplifier for subs: American Bass VFL120.1 wired at 1 ohm Subwoofers: x2 Massive Hippo 84 Box: 4th order bandpass

So I recently build a box and installed my two Sundown X15's D4 wires to 1oh with a Hifonics 3200 watt amp pushing them. The box was designed by caraudiofab it is 8.5 cubes tuned to 32hz the port is currently facing the read barn doors in my Escalade. The setup isn't really pushing much air which I'm kind of depressed about. I am looking at options to move more air!! I was thinking of turning this box around so the port is facing the front of the car? Right now the port is about 8 inches away from the back doors which I don't feel like it is enough room? This is my first build and I don't have any friends that do this so I'm just guessing at this point. I did have my system tuned at a local car audio shop which helped quite a bit but I'm still not super impressed with the SPL. This is the Box I am using below. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

If you got capacitors for your system, post pics of your setup and specs and total watts. I'm looking to do a capacitor setup for a system of 4,000w total peak.

Decided to start a thread about my quest for dbzzzz in my daily driver. I told myself I would not be doing anything big with this car but I am learning not to trust myself with that kind of promise lol! Here is the car's actual build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205951-sotm-build-2000-honda-civic-ex-140db-daily-build/?p=3124379 So I had a little setup in the car that only did 140.8db at about 34hz dB Drag style. Grabbed some equipment from my Jeep (currently being rebuilt) and got some subs to play with from Jeff Vue of JVF Customz. So here is what I'm working with as of December 2016: Car - 2000 Honda Civic Ex 5 Speed w/ sunroof, ac, bla bla bla. Electrical - Stock 70a Alternator, $60 G51R stock under hood battery, Big 3 done with SHCA 4 gauge cca, 4 gauge Xs cca to the rear, G34 battery in the rear. So basically shit for electrical but its kool...but I did get some supercaps! BIGGG help with those. Subs - 2 JVF Customz 3.3 12's, 3" 8 layer coil D1.4, 10" spider???, fat motor (same as my 18's in the Jeep) on 12 spoke. Box - 3.4 cube, subs forward, port forward, 8" aero. Power - 1 DC Audio 3.5k DAT AZZ!! 3.5k with caps in spare tire location. Caps did not get used until later. Decided this was a bad location for the amp so it's going to move asap. Makeshift setup. Box hardly fits and I don't like the subs up at the deck lid. This box is named the "bitch box" mostly because its been in about every "loud" street stock car in NorCal since like 2011. I won West Coast championships with it in 2015. So now lets get on with testing! I'll just post as I go with it!

Does anyone know anybody in the Phoenix area who might be willing to help me by metering the Blazer... Lol... I'd need a way to contact them as well... Please help I do not want to wait till the fall to get it done at Wild Horse Pass... It's not a couple of P3's on a thousand watts!.. I swear!... No disrespect to Rockford fans meant...I just need to find the general cabin resonance and burp it once or twice... please help!

I am wondering if anyone has personally seen a setup with 3 12" subs of any brand hit really big #'s in SPL . How loud can 3 12's get? I haven't been to a show in years and in 1997 152 db was extreme at local shows. What is loud nowadays? With music or test tones what have you seen? In a wall, SUV or what? I'm pretty sure that times have changed and someone has 3 alternators charging 10 batteries with crazy power on 3 12" subs? I'd like to hear what anyone has seen. New to the forum, but started IASCA in Az in 1994.... been raising kids and working until lately.

I live in central NC, and there isnt much audio wise around here. The only big show in driving range for me is the Sundown show. I know they're out of Claremont, but where is the actual show at? I cant find anything on it for 2017. It may be the same as last year, but I just wanted to make sure. Also, if anyone knows of any audio shows around central NC or even NC in general, let me know. Thanks everyone

There's a guy in my town selling a Aerostar for super cheap and I just wanted to know if anybody has experience with these and know how it will preform for spl?

This is how we wake the dead in Europe! 20hz, 25hz, 33hz & 40hz bass quakes from the Netherlands! (propper-droppers)

Looking for anyone that can provide dimensions and a cut sheet list for a single sundown audio zv4 15. Wanting around a 7 cubic foot box, The box will be in a 1995 Yukon so I have a good bit of space to work with as far as measurements go, don't have exact measurements off the top of my head. Any help would be nice.

Ok so i need advice from the pro's for my build! I currently have 2 12's in a 6 Cube ported box, now in order to make more room for my aux batteries and 4 channel amp i will be adding i was wondering if this would be the one exception to front firing a subwoofer box. I was going to build a platform to set the box on which would leave no gap between the roof and the box, I was also going to seal the 2 inchs on each side off as well. So in this repect i could put my batteries and four channel underneath the sub box by letting the platfoor have a higher back the subs would be above the rear seats pointing forward would this result in a good positioning of the subs i currently have the subs facing up[ and ports up i would of liked to have subs up ports back but i would of been choking them off if i would of done so. Its ok if its a fucked idea i can handle it.

what would be a good 21 to go in my wall. not too worried about music just spl. what does everyone recommend and why?

Hello all! This will be my first build (or re-build) log, that i have ever made, but i will try my best to keep it on certain a level. A little about me: I'm 18 year old, living in Denmark (little country above Germany), and i am still studying Had my car for a year now, and my license for 8 months. The first 4 months, i made my first stereo ever, in my own car off course. But, about a month ago, i decided to make it bigger, and better. In all i did 4 full stereo, including my own, a year ago, and i did some helping, made some enclosures, and so, so i am still an absolute newbie. About my car: It is a Renault Clio II, from 2002. I (or one of my friends) have named it Boris The Boom Boom Bil (Bil is danish for car, heads the title) It is an automatic, which i absolutely love, because it hurts my knee to drive a stick shift - even though i know how to It is not very big, or very pretty, but it hasn't done many kilometers (58.000 at this point) , it has full service history, and it was in my budget. Some quick pictures of it My old stereo contained of: HU - Clarion CZ703E Amplifier - Audio System R105.4 Front stage - Audison Prima APX 130 Subwoofer - Gladen SQX10 All stinger Cables. Here's a picture of the components, taken with a potato basiacly Now to the re-build I would like to start with the new equipment, because that is always a good start. The new stereo will contain: HU - Clarion CZ703E Amplifier 1 - Audio System R105.4 Amplifier 2 - Audio System R1250.1D Front stage - Massive Audio CK6X Subwoofer - SSA GCON-15 Now, why did i go with this? Well, i kept the HU because, that is what i have budget for right now. I would like to upgrade because it is not the best, but it works - Sometimes at least Then i too kept the 4 channel amplifier, which i will use for the front stage, bridged into 2 channels, each at 350watt RMS, which should be efficient. It is a decent amplifier, which is not to expensive, and it actually sounds rather good. I bought a Audio System R1250.1D because i would need WAAAY more power for my new subwoofer. It is rated at 1250watt 1 ohm, which i will be running it in, so i can push the SSA to the limit, and now i know that i do not go down on power. I chose to do Audio System again, because i am positive about my older one. The Massive Audio i bought because i heard them play once, and they played, LOUD, and clear, while still keeping some level of SQ - which is not to forgot. The subwoofer was pretty much a guess, because i have never ever seen one before in Denmark where i live. I looked around online, then talked a little to the guys who runs SSA, and ended up giving it a try, and even now, on nothing more than 300watt i absolutely love it. As you might already guessed - i build the subwoofer, and installed it already.. I have build a 125litre enclosure (without displacement), and tuned it at 30hz. The enclosure have been stiffened (is this a word?) on the inside - the stiffening (again?) is off course rounded over for air flow The port is too rounded over - even though you can not tell from the pictures, they were taken before i did it