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Showing results for tags 'spl'.
Found 22 results
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I’m about to drop close to 5 grand on this audio setup (including install) but before I do I wanted to hear everyone’s thoughts on what could be better or changed. What I plan on installing- mids/highs - 4 deaf bounce Arnold neo 6.5 in the custom speaker pods for front doors, 2 sky high 6.5 mid bass for my rear doors. 2 deaf bounce neo tweeters in my A pillar from custom speaker pods. subwoofer - 1 sundown zv6 15 mids amp - jp234 tweeter amp - jp MM1002 monoblock - ruthless 4500 electrical - 260 amp alternator paired with a 30ah noli sodium battery DSP - Memphis VIV dsp questions for the bass heads - - will I be able to run my 6mids on the jp234? (each 6.5 speaker is 200 watts rms) - the deaf bounce tweeters are 45 watts rms a piece and the jp MM1002 is 90 watts per channel will I be over powering them and potentially clipping/damaging the tweeters? - Will my electrical upgrade be enough to handle all of this? (The shop doing the install says it will but I don’t want to be constantly dropping voltage either) - should I go with the ruthless 4500 or the jp43 they are both $800. I don’t care for the better bass knob the jp43 comes with because I’ll be using a big Jeff audio rca bass knob - Lastly is there any recommendations or changes I should make to this build. Thanks!
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Hello all, new member here and to the car audio family. I never had a system in the 90's when all the boys had them and now I have recently been super interested in getting something simple. We only have the 1 SUV for the whole family so going all out is out of the question. I really just want a single 12" ported enclosure. Leaning towards Kicker Comp Q (will need a recommendations for an enclosure), or an L7. Nothing too elaborate. My wife is not into "bass" as we are, so obviously I am going to need something that can be turned down whenever her and the kids are in the truck. I am assuming a bass knob will do the trick but not absolutely sure. As yall can see I am very green/new to all of this. I have "some" knowledge but not enough. Anyways, I know that car audio is more difficult now than it was back in the day. I have a 2021 Ford Expedition Max Limited with the 12 speaker B&O system on the factory SYNC3 head unit. From what I understand it cannot be "upgraded" w/o losing the SYNC3 functions etc. Correct me if I am wrong. Quite frankly I really don't necessarily need or want to replace the head unit nor any of the speakers (at least not yet). I plan on upgrading mids & highs later. I am just wanting to add a new (better) sub/amp. So, back to newer vehicles aren't as simple...I know that the factory stereo has bass roll off and I will have to install a LOC as well. Thoughts on the AudioControl LC-1.800, or LC-1.1500. I believe if I researched this correctly that it will kill 2 birds with 1 stone if you will by not having to purchase an LC2i(Pro)+amp, correct? Should I do the 800 or the 1500 is another question? Thoughts on DSP's, Epicenter Micro. Upgrades to electrical. All the small things etc. Any and all advise, criticism, recommendations is more than welcome. I could not find through the search function anything on my specific vehicle, so if anyone has a 4th gen expy or has installed in one, please feel free to reach out. My apologies for the rambling. I am new to all of this including forums and what the proper etiquette is in these things but im sure I'll be undoubtedly educated by someone. Thanks again. My email if anyone wants to reach out is [email protected] if that's your preference of communication. Thanks again. 🫡🤝🤜🤛 **If this is the wrong Forum/Sub-Forum, just let me know which forum to move it to & I will gladly** -
Hey guys, up for sale I have my tight (well use your imagination)! You can also call or text me @ (717) 679- 6682. to see pics of what Im working with REAAAALLLY would prefer local hookups. -
looking to purchase a term lab, good condition. let me know a price and what software it has. thank you.
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I just built a box for 4 12's but after doing so i started thinking about how to make it much louder, i want a lot of spl, my cars resonant frequency is 49htz would it be louder at like 34htz or if i made a box tuned at around 40htz?
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Hi all im building a Passat 18T with 2x9515 DD woofers and 2xZ1DD amplifires i will post pictures as i go on wich me good luck in South Africa the loudest trunk car is 153DB http://www.facebook.com/pages/RadioActive-Car-Audio/284357928291938 HERE IS A FACEBOOK LINK TO MY SHOP PAGE I WILL ADD PICTURES THERE 2
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the box has 22.86 cubes and 220 inches of port tuned to 35 hz. it will be in a 92 full size blazer subs up port up. port will be by back window. never built a spl box and need all input i can get.
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Im sure many of you have read it already, but for those of you who havent here is an article sonic posted on their blog about SPL numbers and what devices are used to measure. common knowledge to most people on here but interesting nonetheless http://blog.sonicelectronix.com/news-on-the-car-audio-industry/ways-to-measure-spl/
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i have been looking for a car audio competition for 2 years now. :WTFBubble:There hasn't been any,not even a hour way from me. Any one know of any upcoming competition in nyc or long island area. -
G'day The Sound Off Super Series kicked off here in South Australia on the weekend. Here is a short video taking a look at the two cars the were in the final of PRO SPL, one is equeivelent to a Street Max car and the other a SS 3-4 car. The final was very close between the two so check it out! You can also check out my channel for other vids including the ground pounder class from the same comp plus other bass fun. theexgotspl -
Sorry if this is already posted but I haven't found any dates or locations for any competitions in Colorado, never heard of one around me but would like to find one, Anybody know of one? Thanks
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Joe stopped by to see his friends over at the HORNBLASTERS Train horns booth at SEMA 2012. They carry every part needed for the loudest and biggest horns for your car, truck, boat or suv. https://www.facebook.com/ http://www.youtube.com/hornblasters https://twitter.com/hornblasters Call Toll Free: 1-877-209-8179 HornBlasters Shocker XL Train Horn This four piece train horn kit is simply the loudest in it's class. These horns are constructed of fiberglass reinforced ABS plastic which is lightweight and extremely durable. Without an adjoining manifold, the horns can be installed separately so they fit almost anywhere on pretty much every car or truck. The horns also feature power air flow technology that allows them to use very little air to create a loud sound, and let you honk the horn for longer. They not only have a genuine locomotive train sound but they are lightweight, extremely durable and sound at 148db at only 100PSI. Features Lightweight & Extremely Loud Durable Fiberglass Reinforced ABS Plastic Body Stainless Steel Diaphragm All-inclusive Brass Fittings Set Standard Mounting Hardware Made in the U.S.A. Can be heard from almost 2 Miles away! Get the best performance out of your Shockers with our complete kits. Nathan AirChime K3LA Train Horn The Nathan AirChime K3 has long been the leader in commercial railway horns. This horn is the most commonly used horn on diesel locomotives across the US and is the same horn everyone's familiar with when a diesel locomotive barrells down the tracks. This K3LA is an American tuned version of the K3 with a low-profile mount to make it easier to install on trucks (not intentionally). This horn is one of the most popular on railways all over the USA and has been since 1977. The K3LA is an amazing horn and delivers unbelievable power. Honestly, its very hard to describe just how loud these horns are. If you want a real horn, this is the answer. Features Durable Construction A real train horn! Extremely Loud Powered by DRC Media LLC & Al & Ed's Autosound -
This sound comp will be hosted by Sound Mekanix and will be held at my shop located in Rice lake WI. I hope to see every one there from the midwest that likes to compete it dosent matter what u have in ur car $100 or $10,000 come show off ur love for stereo systems. We will be doing DB drags, Bass boxing and SPL events u can go on www.soundmekanix.com for all the rules and class's also give me a call at the shop 715-234-9199 ask for Jake for the rest of the details. At first we where going to have this event on May 27th but i forgot about the Soundset festival and i would like alot of people from MN to show so i moved it back a month so hopfuly we get a really good turn out for this so we can have another one in July. Thanx for ur time -
May 27th is the first annual "LOUD AND PROUD" sound comp in RICE LAKE ,WI we are located 2 hours from the twin cities and the center of wisconsin. i hope to see every one there no matter what you have in your whip big or small come join us. The comp will be held at Greens Auto Accessories located at 7 w French st. Rice Lake WI 54868 put it on ur calender and tell ur girlfriends u are going on a road trip or bring them the more the marrier.
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Hey guys this is my friend Jeremys Hummer H2 I dont think he is on here so i thought I would share a vid of the setup my bf did for him. Enjoy -
Well to start off here, my project is a 1986 Chevy Suburban. I picked this thing up and didn't really know what I wanted to do with it. Should I do a super clean build in it? demo build? showcase build? The options are endless but I've always wanted to build something original and loud. Once I got into this vehicle and really started digging in, I found quite a bit of problems with the floor. Some rust issues but nothing on the overall body that was too bad. Most of it was in the floor pan, which is quite common for this year but the overall body was in decent shape. There was a lot of past work on this vehicle and given all of it's wiring woes I wasn't sure I'd ever really trust it to drive down the road or be worthy of becoming a show truck. I decided to make it a demo vehicle, not built for strict spl but for fun. Something where I can showcase B2's product line in a platform that's a bit different and make it memorable. Some love it and some hate it. Some say how could you do that to a square body and some can't wait to see it get done. Floor will be fully steel to the B pillar with a full steel firewall and 7/8" thick plexi window. Full steel dash, full steel cage and probably 9-12 15's on 40-60k worth of power. I've never done a build log like this, but have always wanted to so here we go! (Also I am in no way a welder, and I know my shop is a disaster!) So here she was as I got it: This is kinda the idea for a box, but I'm up in the air. Have to deal with the tubs as well, so my options are a bit limited due to space. Looks pretty clean on the outside but she's got some issues deep down. The wiring on this vehicle is beyond a joke.. but we will get to that later. She's got a 5.7L 350 TBI swap from a 94 Silverado based on what I can find. The ECM and wiring was very poorly done here and left me with no choice other than to pull it all out and fix it. I can't even describe how bad the wiring is, a lot of it I couldn't even bring myself to take pictures of, just needed to get it out and start over. I also found that the harness for the ECM was cut in the middle at some point, and just twisted back together and taped. Like who does that? So out with it and time to get into fixing it. This was extremely painstaking to find out what goes where, what's been modified and who knows what else. So this wiring is ongoing, I'll get some progress updates on it later as it's still not completely done. Stripped the whole interior out. Air Suspension: I replaced the front and rear bags. Added two compressors, a new tank and managed to salvage the valves that were in use on this before hand. Don't have any pics of it yet but I'll get to them. The window: This is where it was to start with. She's got some rust in the lower corners and I had to CUT the dash out. On these models they are welded to the window/firewall frame. I've never built a SPL windshield before. I had some ideas to go off of and decided just to go for it. I know I wanted a split setup and not just a straight tank looking windows. After a lot of thought I decided to just go with something like this. Spotted her up and started moving forward. Made some side bars and got it mocked up a bit more. The goal here is to have two pieces of plexi that are flat, as getting it rounded or curved so to speak would take a miracle. The outer bars taper in a bit, and I did this so I had ample room to make some epic A pillar pods. There's almost no room from factory to put anything in the A pillar without it sticking WAY out. The sides will be welded flush with some sheet metal to clean it up. Started cutting out the floor. Oh boy this has been fun. Just as a side reference. Chevy didn't want this to come out lol and it really didn't want to. It's a major pain in the ass but well it is what it is.
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I merged 2 threads and things got a little screwed up lol So I added Johns first post to his right here : This is the official thread for the Tahoe build off we hope you enjoy these builds as much as we do! So we are doing a little friendly competition between Sky High and DC Audio. A few things fell into place and we ended up having GM SUVS dropped off at the same time so we decided to make some fun out of it. Rusty, his team, and DC Audios build will consist of the DC Audio Yukon 4 M1 LVL 6 18s with the aluminum baskets. 4 DC Audio 5Ks and a B pillar wall; just to name a few things. The Sky High's Tahoe will have 6 Lvl 6 m2 18s with aluminum cone and 4 DC 10ks in a B pillar wall. Rusty and I (Jon) will be both posting pics along the road to crushing every other Tahoe on the west coast. DC Audio and Sky High have a pretty good and close knit relationship if you guys did not know. This is a friendly build and we are only out to have fun and get some recognition out there for the amazing products going into the builds. So please enjoy the builds and your input is greatly appreciated. See you at Lake County Car Audio with both these builds for the finale!! And Mine starts here - So Alot of you might remember the DC Yukon, Well its at the shop and were going to wall it. Not 100% sure what the plan is but for right now I just removed everything so i can start to measure out the shell. its got for gear (well before I took it all out) (2) 175.4 (4) 5.0 (4) M1 Lv6's (2) Alts (2) Strong Stinger 2150's, The rest of the 2150s are dead and will need to be replaced. The Yukon sat for a while and the battery's are now toast So Im not sure if it will go flat wall, clam shell, 4th order, 6th order. Part of it will depend on the square footage we end up with. On with pics of my progress today- 493 replies
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I got a pair of Massive Audio DC 10's and i was wondering if anyone could help me with a box design. I want a box good for SPL as well as a decent daily box. Preferably Tuned in the lower to mid 30's or higher if i can still play into the 20's. I mainly listen to decaf and big pimpin. Thanx.
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So here's the deal guys, i've got room for 2 12's (but one higher quality one would be ok) and their corresponding box, the amp, and all the wiring. I need to know for about 1400 bucks what is the best complete setup combo(not powered subs , just individual components) that i can get for loud bass that still adds to sound quality. Anything you got would be fine, just need to know the subs and what to rms power them with all for 1400 bucks -
Hey guys long time no speak, I know the ap30001d is 2 ohm stable, but ive heard they can run @ 1ohm safely with good electrical. Does anybody have any experience or know this to be true....running a dual 2ohm pap wmd2k 18 to it.. thanks again.
