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My system plays great when the cutting out doesn't happen. I have A Kenwood Excelon X501 Headunit (5v SW pre-out) 2 P3 D4 12s with a Rockford Fosgate Prime R-1200D ran at one ohm. However, this problem occured at both one and 4 ohm. My problem only happens once in a blue moon its very quick and it never happens on hard bass. It usually happens right after a long hard hitting note, then it will cut out on that weird frequency only then go right back to banging, No matter what song or source I use if the song plays that frequency it will cut out. IT happens with Choices (Yup) by E-40 that is one of the many songs with the weird note in it. Problem doesn't occur at lower volume only at 22-28 which is what I usually listen to it at since that gives out the most clean bass. Any tips or ideas would be appreciated. I am an installer at a local shop and have been for a year now this has only been a problem wince I switched to the rockford system. I tied another rockford amp did the same thing with the parameters set the same. People at my shop are leading towards voltage regulator but the amp is the only thing having the issue. I checked all my wiring multiple times seems as good as it can get. I did make my own box and it was only the second one I made, and the first one all by myself. My last thought for what it could be Is I built my box poorly and its causing me to need to overpower the subs in order for them to sound like they should in a PROPER box. But if that is the case and I am causing it to clip why would it only cut out on that one frequency? When it cuts out it jumps down to 12 volts for a split second with hard bass. When it cuts out it jumps up to 15 volts for a split second then goes back to normal. I multi-metered at the amp both the power lead and remote lead both spike at 15 volts when cutting out. When it cuts out all that happens is the Blue Power Led turns RED. I have pictures of my build in my garage.

My good friend Aaron, aka Psyph Morrison, has never had a real system in any of his cars before. If you don't know who Psyph is (pronounced Sife), look him up on itunes, spotify or any other music app out there. Youtube as well. I have known him over 10 years and even worked with him on his last 3 albums as an executive producer. Ok, now that is out of the way, the reason he is getting a system is because well, the entire time i have known him and worked with him making music, especially music with a lot of bass, he has never had a system of his own. I don't know anyone who has had more car issues than him so we really never made it to the discussion of a system. Not too long ago he picked up a 2002 Honda Accord 4 door. I knew right then he has a reliable vehicle finally. So i offered to slap some beat in it for him. Watching him pull up, slapping his own music in a (not so great) stock sound system was really bothering me. How can my boy ride around like that if he know's ME? Long story cut short...his car is at my shop for a few weeks while i figure out what i am going to do. I have NO "plans". I just want to get him some good equipment, set it up proper and make him happy! ****NOTE, anything you see here is subject to change as i am totally freestyling this. Trying to just make it work. First i stopped by Arden Audio in Sacramento Ca. They always have what i need in stock over there and if they don't i can get it same or next day. I decided to pick Psyph up a new head unit first and foremost. I also got the dash kit and wiring harness to go with it. Grabbed some SkyHigh 16ga OFC speaker wire to run to the doors. The system will consist of (so far) Pioneer DEH X7800 BHS Head Unit Rockford Fosgate Punch 1000.1 (BASS) Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.2 (Highs) (2) Rockford Fosgate P3 12" subs (ported enclosure) (1) Set Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" separates SMD Fuse / Grounding Blocks Mechman 1/0 OFC Power Wire Skyhigh 12 and 16ga Speaker Wire I already had a P300.2 but i got him a matching 1000.1 to go with it. These P3 12" subs are not brand new but might as well be. They are in brand new condition! They are my old ones. This box was already finished and just hanging around the shop. I KNOW it sounds good so it should do great in his trunk! The trunk floor is at an angle so i have to make a platform and flatten it out some so the box sits level.

I recently bought a crescendo 3500 for my American bass hd 12s dual 1ohm I know they’re underpowered and noticed my clipping light comes on yet I can hear the subs distorting I haven’t tuned the amp quite frankly never tuned any in the past yet never blown a sub or amp just wanted to know if a little clipping is bad?

Hey, I'm new to this forum and i have quite the order for a question. To start off, I own a 2002 Nissan Xterra. I have replaced the head unit and speakers with pioneer products. I currently have 2 15" subs that i bought fro someone for a cheap price in the trunk. I am looking for a big upgrade. I want way more power and way more sound. Possible even hairtricks? I don't know a lot about subs, amplifiers, etc. so I would need to know everything I need to buy and do. My budget is 1,500 dollars, Whats the best I can do? Thanks!

2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS Rockford Fosgate T1000.1BDCP amp American Bass XR 12" subwoofer 102lb Pumpkin with 6"x22" Bigass Port tuned to 48hz Pioneer Head unit Kinetik HC800 battery in the trunk Another fun year putting this together. I did get the inspiration to do this from Steve SMD Meade, and have been doing it the last 5 years around Halloween. I waited until the 28th of October to build it for a MECA audio competition. It definitely turned some heads and people loved it. It surprised a few with how loud it got during some demos. MECA measured at the head rest and it did a 137. Not too bad. Also, earned an award for loudest single 12" setup and loudest in my class. I wasnt there for the second day of the comp, so not sure if there was anyone else in my class. A W is a W i suppose. We clamped my power and apparently this pumpkin caused severe box pumpkin rise and it took my amp from 1ohm to 6ohms! Severe loss of potential power out of my Rockford Fosgate T1000.1BDCP amp. I took it to Audio Anarchy and put the meter in the kick and did a 139. Big E wanted to see what it would do in the port/inside the pumpkin. 162!!!! I played it hard until I could hear a couple of the bolts come loose and duck tape start to flap.

Another fun year putting this together. I did get the inspiration to do this from Steve SMD Meade, and have been doing it the last 5 years around Halloween. I waited until the 28th of October to build it for a MECA audio competition. It definitely turned some heads and people loved it. It surprised a few with how loud it got during some demos. MECA measured at the head rest and it did a 137. Not too bad. Also, earned an award for loudest single 12" setup and loudest in my class. I wasnt there for the second day of the comp, so not sure if there was anyone else in my class. A W is a W i suppose. We clamped my power and apparently this pumpkin caused severe box pumpkin rise and it took my amp from 1ohm to 6ohms! Severe loss of potential power out of my Rockford Fosgate T1000.1BDCP amp. I took it to Audio Anarchy and put the meter in the kick and did a 139. Big E wanted to see what it would do in the port/inside the pumpkin. 162!!!! I played it hard until I could hear a couple of the bolts come loose and duck tape start to flap.

Thursday October 12th-15th 2017 Fall into this season’s savings with a big discount from Second Skin. Make your vehicle Scary Quiet inside and enjoy those Spooktacular Drives in the night!!! 20% Off all products on orders over $90 4 Days Only Use Promo Code FALL20SMD (We know the ad image says October 13th, but as usual we open up the code one day early for all SMD forum customers. So you can have the best chance at scoring the B Stock specials and other limited quantity items. Enjoy)

I am actually leasing this car so ive been trying to do the install so that at the end of the lease I can return it all back to stock. I'm running 2 12 JL w3 on a JL jx 1000/1. Just got a new box for them to match the specs JL prefers. Atrend makes a box called 12JL01DV. Not exact but pretty damn close to spec. My old box was too small for these subs. For the mids and highs in my front stage I have Focal Auditor 6.5 components. Made custom speaker rings out of some scrap mahogany I had. I wanted to install the in the factory location so I cut two identical rings of .75in thick using a router and glued them together. Used this rubbery foam weather stripping as a gasket around the speaker to make sure it was all sealed at the door panel. For the tweeters the actually fit almost perfect behind the door panel in the factory location. I used steel back strapping, hot glue and sound deadner around the edges of the opening to seal it and prevent rattles. Also made speaker rings for the pioneer d series coaxials in the back doors for the rear stage. Bought some KnuKonceptz 1/0 and ran it all the to back and split it off with 4 gauge using a distro block for the power wire and ran 16 gauge to the mids and highs. Had some spare 1/0 and did a big three upgrade and swapped the battery for an Interstate MT7. Way too many times my car died on me with the little stock battery and its a brand new car!

So just to state this is not a VS thread. I just want to know what the advantages or disadvantages of say running 2 12s that are 1k rms ea over say a single 12 at 2k rms or even a single 15 at 2k rms

I'm not a pro in this area so please be patient. I recently had my sub installed at a shop in my area along with an amp and a lc7i. Whenever I crank the volume up I get this low rumbling sound from the sub. It makes this noise even when there is no bass in the music I'm listening to (i.e. intro, outro). However, it doesn't make this noise while the music is paused. When I looked in my trunk i noticed that they ran all of my signal cables with my power and ground, so I figure there's a ground issue. I went back to have it looked at and the guy told me that since my car is so small it will make that noise due to the amount of bass that I have, and if it was in the trunk of a small car instead of the back of an suv I wouldn't hear it. None of this sounds correct to me, am I correct in assuming that he was just being lazy? I also noticed that my bass knob does not turn my amp all the way off. When the knob is all the way down I can still hear my sub, just at a much lower volume. Is this normal? Oh yeah, due to my sub being a 2ohm and my amp not being 1ohm stable I am forced for now to operate at a 4ohm load. This is only pushing 750 watts to a sub that 1100 watts is recommended for. The instructions say that I can safely power it with 500-1200 watts rms. Could this be a contributing factor? 2009 BMW X3 single Kicker Comp Q 15 Kicker ZXS1500.1 Audiocontrol LC7i

Do any SMD members in the Houston area get together to talk about/listen to their rides? If not, is there any interest in starting a regular meetup somewhere (We'd have to find a demo friendly place) where Houston Bassheads can meet up in between comps?

2Loud @ Virginia Tech 2Loud @ Virginia Tech is a student run car audio competition team Mission: Our mission is to promote audio engineering at the college level. How we complete our mission: Our hand on experience with car audio equipment will provide our members with a better understanding of audio engineering. Goal: Our goal is to design, build, test, and tune a car audio system for Sound Pressure Level (SPL) Competition. Approach: First, we will define our constraints for competition (i.e. Cost, Class of competition, and number of woofers, etc). Using programs such as AutoCAD, Inventor, and Torres Box Tuning Calculator, we will design a speaker enclosure. Once an optimal enclosure is designed, we will construct the box. We will install the box, speakers, and amplifiers accordingly. When the system is in, we will test the system for optimal tuning and SPL output. Finally, we will take our car to compete in car audio competitions. Vehicle: 1990 Honda Civic DX Hatch The car was purchased by the members, for the members. Upgrades to the vehicle as of now: Pioneer MVH Headunit Sony XSGS 6.5” Speakers Front Sony XSGS 6x9” Speakers Rear Big 3 upgrade with XS Power 1/0 cable 1 run of 1/0 NVX OFC wire to the rear Secondary Knetik HC1200 Battery Stinger 5 Farad Capacitor Stinger Volt Meter 12" Alpine Type X Subwoofer (not for use in competition) Atrend Prefab Ported box (not for use in competition) Alpine PDX1000.1 Amp (not for use in competition) Planned competition for this semester: Compete in the IASCA/IdBL Car SPL competition -Class 1 competition Hatchback -2 12” subwoofers in a ported box, under 2,500 watts Planned Equipment: TBD We have committed ourselves to the Class 1 of IdBL Competition Ideally we have 2 12” subwoofers in a ported box, with one amplifier Sponsors/ Funding: TBA At the moment we are 100% student funded. We are a new organization and have the potential to acquire funding from the university. However, we were not officially founded until after the funding request deadline. This is our official build log. We will be updating with information regarding the car audio build as we go. I look forward to keeping this updated and would love feedback. If you would like to contact me directly, please direct message me. Thank you! Mark Soler, President 2Loud @ Virginia Tech As of now, we do not have any sponsors. If it proves that we cannot afford to build the planned system this semester, I will be donating my system from the Galant build to the cause. That would put is in Class 2 competition at only 3200 watts, however it will be better than nothing.

Here's another video I put together for last weekends meetup in San Diego. No effects or crazy edits, just a nice short little compilation. Hope you guys enjoy! Check out my channel for lots of other videos like this.

this is my 2004 gmc sierra regular cab pickup amps 2x aq2200 lanzar opti 250.4 rf 850.4 no name garbage 200.4 subs 2x aq hdc3 12 speakers 8x sound stream 8inch pro 6x crescendo audio pwx 4 super tweeters audiopipe electrical 3 batteries 2 runs of 0 gauge stock alt (need ho alt badly)

This isn't a Vs. thing, more like me asking to lean on your experience since I have no good way to really test these drivers, no where that I know of in MO carries these brands.. So I have my front doors and install finished and perfected, but my speakers are a little weakers than I would dance for, so I am using some tax monies to try to fix that prob and I want your allses helps! I run a 3 way active and have a mini DSP 6x8 on the way and a sub about to be installed, so consider it a 4-way active system I guess, and its in a single cab 2006 Silverado 1500 truck. I am currently running Jl audio CS200 2 way component tweeters and 6.5s (I am going to replace the tweeters soon too) and dayton audio 3s in the doors. I run midbass something like 125hz - 300hz, possibly as high as 600hz sometimes, I've been toying back and forth. The thump is ok, but I want it louder, with more power handling and more chest rattling thump, the closer I can get to take my breath away the better. I am running a Jl audio 360/2 to the midbass, but I am considering also getting an amp for the midbass that has 200w per channel and better signal to noise ratio, because the 360/2 kinda sucks there. I am leaning towards a pair of CDT-ES06+s on a Jl audio rd400v3, but I want your suggestions! My budget is something like 600 absolute max, 400 would be preferred. Thanks in advance!

Hi i have 3 2ohm svc subs laying around and want to make a ported enclosure for them. My amplifier puts out 1200 at 2ohm and 2000rms at 1 ohm. Is there any way i can wire them to meet any of these ratings. What would they drop down to if i was to wire them in parralel. also is there a formula to work this out for svc and dvc subs ? Hope some one can help regards sufyaan

I live in central NC, and there isnt much audio wise around here. The only big show in driving range for me is the Sundown show. I know they're out of Claremont, but where is the actual show at? I cant find anything on it for 2017. It may be the same as last year, but I just wanted to make sure. Also, if anyone knows of any audio shows around central NC or even NC in general, let me know. Thanks everyone

Post your real or dream audio system below, I just wanna know what the community has. My real audio system--- 2 DC level 4 15's Custom box 3 4" aeroports 7 cubic ft tuned @30 2 Sundown sae1500D Alpine CDE-143BT 2 Alpine type r 6.5 componets 4 Crescendo PWX pro 6.5 2 Alpine Type r tweets 2 Alpine mrx-m110 Murdermat in all doors/back wall Skyhigh 0/1 awg runs Mechman 240A alt Skyhigh 18awg to door speakers JL rca's 2 XS d1600 My dream system--- 4 DC level 6 15's Walled box tuned @30 All Skyhigh/Certified Basshead wire 2 DC 10.0k 4 Crescendo neo 8" 6 Crescendo neo 6.5" 4 Crescendo ft1 DC amp/amps to power speakers 2 mechman 370A alts 4 XS lithium batteries Murdermat double layered everywhere custom dash If only I had the money/means for my dream system lol

This is how we wake the dead in Europe! 20hz, 25hz, 33hz & 40hz bass quakes from the Netherlands! (propper-droppers)

Equipment: Sound: (4) Custom 18s (6) Supertweeters (4) 10in midrange (4) Tweeters (In the headliner) (4) 6.5in midwoofers (2) 5500s (1) 1100.4 (1) 550.2 (1) 600.6 Electrical: 6 Group 31s Quad alternator Bracket Rebuilt 250amp alt (3) 370 amp alternators SMD Temp and fan controller Suspension: Hellwig airbags Gabriel Airshocks Big Brake Kit, forgot brand YT: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_uCoOnER_E2AXbifxYS9uw

Hi Im building a subwoofer enclosure for 2 12' type r subs (2kRMS) and wanted to know what size enclosure i should use. I have depth of 17 height of 15 and width of 35 max. I was thinking around 5.5 cubes I want to tune the box to around 32 hertz and want very low bass. What diffrence does a larger enclosure make over a smaller one? Also how big should i have my port i will be using a slot port but wanted to know if a port which its height is less and width is more is better than a port with a larger hight and smaller width. I was thinking a 4' wide and around 9 heigh is thw width fine? All help appreciated

Hi I may sound stupid for asking but im fairly new to car audio and have a little system consisting of 2 Alpine type R's 12d2 subs 4 Alpine type R component speakers Lanzar OPTIDRIVE 2600 mono amp at 0.5 ohm which puts out 2600 at .5 4 cubic foot ported enclosure tuned at 36 hz i have my subs wired to .5 and the subs are rated at 1k each whilst im using a 2600 amp I am wanting to know what the gain is for im aware that its to match the output of the headunit with the amp but wanted to know if the gain determines how much power the amp recieves, at half gain will my amp get 1300 rms ? or will my amp still put out 2600 but just need the deck volume to be turned up more than if the gain was at 3/4 Hope some one cant help

Here is a short video from The Netherlands where bassheads compete in a fantastic competition format called; "Propper-Droppers". Since this game uses the real lows (20hz (!!), 25hz, 33hz & 40hz) it's a fun thing to watch because lots of hairtricks. We all like wobbling, whale stimulating BASS!

Hi, my name is Sami. Im 19 years old basshead from finland. And this is my mondeo And Some Vids Whole car flex https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ8QnBwXuvU Windshield flex https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seNPKRrXoJI Hairtrick https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkRDXZ7O7vg Bass cracks my frame https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO77UHqYyC8 More Bass videos here! ----> https://www.youtube.com/user/NosSamiAudio

Hi I am new here and have a question about bass tubes. I wont to put my subs through a ski hole since my seats wont go down but the problem is that the box wont fit. So would a empty bass tube with a subwoofer like for example a nvx vcw 12 in sub be good to stick through the ski hole and get more output? My car is a 1995 BMW 525i. Would a better option be if i put 2 aero ports through the rear deck and put the sub facing through the ski hole?